mark_a

I just switched to a Mac from a PC. Why? Because I mainly use Photoshop and it takes

advantage of the dual processors in my Mac and... I find it more user friendly, easier to

upgrade or install software, faster at some applications but slower at others, no threats yet

from viruses, and it supports everything I need to do with it. I liked the G5 PowerMac so

much that I bought an iMac for my wife to use. I still have my PCs but they are only used

for the programs I can't run on the Mac (accounting program and web update program)

and as my "large CF card (tethered to camera) in my studio. Cost? About the same as the

comparable PC that I was looking at. Regrets? None. I like the Macs and am pleased with

the performance.

Mine was the same. I sent it in for repair and when I got it back it still wobbled. After a

couple of shoots it finally bound up and died. I now have a replacement and it wobbles.

Don't worry about it... :)

You need a computer to run the software so shooting to a drive wouldn't work. I shoot with my Fuji S2 tethered to my computer all the time with no problems. You have to make sure that you set the camera settings to the mode where you can control the camera or the software will never see it. I don't have the Fuji with me today or I could tell you the exact setting.

I have 2 of the drives and they seemed to work fine when I first plugged them in. Then one would disappear. After turning it off and on again it came back. I'll try your idea and see if it works on these. My system is brand new and I don;t have anything on the drives yet. OT - Coming from a PC to a Mac is a learning curve!

I've been on OMP for a few years and it's proved very valuable to me. I've received several jobs from referrals and I've had the opportunity to shoot with a few exceptional models who liked what they saw on my OMP Member Profile (4376). I get a number of hits to my web site from OMP and have received jobs from some of those hits too. I've also used OMP to find talent for paid client shoots and have not been disappointed. Yes there are wannabes and plenty of them but all you need to do is look closely and you can identify the sincere professional models from the ones that just want to have their photo taken. I'm also a member of GarageGlamour. To answer a question above -- many of the portfolios have nudes in them because a lot of glamour photography involves nudity in some form. Mine is no exception. I fully believe that shooting the unclothed human form is more difficult than with clothing on them. You need to rely on lighting, shadows, camera angle, and artistic instinct to hide flaws and enhance positive aspects. Just my opinion.<div></div>

One technique for getting the warm look to the images is to shoot at the "Overcast or Cloudy Day" setting on the camera.

Two things to note here. First, if you are on public property you can get caught and there will be a fine if not more involved. Second, I recommend a Nude Model Release that covers all the fine legalities of shooting nude images and what can be done with them. I also recommend (as above) that you validate the age and if you don't have a copier handy at least take a close up of the model with their license held up in front of them. Most magazines now require 2 forms of ID and that may be the way I'll go soon. If you are shooting on private land you should get a property release signed.

My question is about when the clock starts and stops for different

aspects of a shoot when doing an hourly job. I normally quote a job

price or a day rate, but I am now looking at an opportunity where it

will be an hourly deal. The shoot will be in my studio and I will

be hiring 2 models and a makeup artist for the shoot. My question

is when should the model's clock start and stop, the makeup artist,

and in this case, mine? Most models want it to start when they

arrive, but makeup can take a while and there's no production going

on. Other models have said that it starts when they are take the

first call to the set. Anyone out there have any "standards" that

they work by on hourly shoots? Thanks in advance!!! Mark

Have you considered calling Nikon Technical Support? They could probably give you advice over the phone. Also, check your card to be sure there are no hidden files on it or possibly the trash is full.

 

Mark

Contact Nikon Technical Support - I believe that it's a known problem.

I've seen readers get fussy and do the same thing. Most of the time it was because the reader was on a hub that was almost maxxed out. Try plugging it directly into the USB on the system.

Whenever someone asks me about becoming a model and modeling schools I send them to www.modelingscams.com You'll find a bunch of information there.

 

Mike Dixon is right, the models I have worked with that have gone to expensive classes have to be "unlearned" to get good shots from them.

 

Invest your money into a trip to NY and go to the free open calls by the top agencies. If nothing else you can have a nice vacation for your $3000. :)

I bought a cover on ebay. It's good quality glass with an adhesive strip all the way around it (very thin strip). It's worked very well for me and I'm sure that If I ever need to take it off it will come off easily. The other option - as mentioned above - are PDA stick ons.

There are a bunch of threads on other sites about S2 focus issues. The suggestions above are good ones to try first. If the problem continues I suggest doing a series of test shots where you are sure of the focus spot and USE A TRIPOD. Then see if there is anything in focus in front or back so you will know if it's focusing short or long. Then contact Fuji Repair and be sure to send the samples with the camera. I had a focus problem until I did exactly that. Now it's sharp as a tack.

My studio is 7'4" high and it has a 18x13' shooting area. Yes, it's a little more difficult to get the exact light I want, but I get the results that make my clients happy. The trick I've found is to keep the power a little low and a small number of lights. I eliminate the background shadows with positioning of lights. Sitting portraits shouldn't be a problem at all in your studio, and with the right angle of the camera, full length shots should be possible.

A friend of mine shoots weddings with his S2. He firewire's it directly to his laptop which he wears on his back in a backpack. When I shoot events I usually carry 8 to 10 256M CF cards (for my D1X) but with my Fuji I carry a 1G Microdrive and 8 - 10 128M Smartmedia cards (they are the fastest in the Fuji). I also carry an Image tank so I have two copies of everything. AND.. it has paid off - lost an entire card of photos once but had them in the image tank.