daf

<p>Old thread but the SD-8A PC sync connector seems a common question. Recently found something and thought I'd update some web forums.</p>

<p><em>"The sync cord is totally useless for SB-800"</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

Incorrect.<br>

<br>

According to Nikon : <a href="https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16493">https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16493</a><br>

<em>"The second cable has a flash PC connection, this should be connected to the Speedlights sync terminal found under the rubber flap on the side of the flash. When the Speedlight is triggered a signal is sent to the SD-8A via this cable to instruct it to prepare and start recharging the Speedlight as soon as possible. This method allows the SD-8A to recharge a Speedlight faster than other external power supplies, which are dumb and must wait until the Speedlight begins to the draw power."</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

So it does fulfil a specific purpose, but may not be 100% necessary.<br>

I'm not keen on the hot-shoe to PC sync adapter option to fire the flash so asking Nikon if I can use a PC sync splitter instead - so 2 connections go into the SB-800.</p>

Thanks, good idea but no cigar.

The paper adjustment lever seems to only raise or lower the printer head.

Grippers are just spring loaded, but I've now seen that the marks do seem to align up with one set of grippers. The grippers aren't lines like I have but I think 3of them in a row could cause it.

I have a problem with my printer and I'm not sure how to fix/what's the cause.<br>

<br>

Printer : Canon S820<br>

Inks : Canon's own, type with no printing nozzle, ink only.<br>

Paper : Various : Normal, Kodak GLossy, Canon Photo Paper Plus GLossy<br>

<br>

Had for years, but not used mutch. Has been tempramental - not turning on in the

past but that seems fine now.<br>

Also had some head cloging but soaking the removable head in warm water

seemed to cure that.<br>

<br>

The problem I'm now getting is that I get residual ink on the print (e.g. photo) +

paper.<br>

Continues after the printing area has finished for about 1.5cm<br>

It's dark I guess black.<br>

Seems to be in a diagonal back-slash pattern, approx 2-3mm along the long edge

and 1mm apart vertically down the paper, with some little marks around.<br>

E.g. (Not to scale) :<br>

     \<br>

     \<br>

     \<br>

     \<br>

     \<br>

<br>

Why it's got me puzzled is that it's only in one distinct place on the paper - approx

2/3 of the way in from the left.<br>

If it was an ink/nozzle issue I guess it would be all over.<br>

<br>

Can it be a roller/gripper ? Don't see why it would gather ink like this. They seem a

bit hard to get at/check. If so is there a way to fix it ?<br>

Or maybe some bad connection between the nozzle + controller ?<br>

<br>

Thanks for any suggestions.

Thanks for that - will pass it on. <BR/>

Should be fairly handy.<BR/>

<BR/>

<I>"Asking for legal advice on a photographers forum... you get what you pay for"</I><BR/>

Yep realise that - think he might cosult a lawyer too.<BR/>

<BR/>

<I>"On the other hand (again) wouldn't common courtesy dictate to ask the subject, seeing you know who they are?"</I><BR/>

True. Guess photographer is expecting a 'No'.<BR/>

Should have added though that it was of the artists back too - slightly busy as they're working.

I think I know the answer to this, but want to double check.

in UK Law....

A friend who's also a photographer has a photograph of a well known artist

working in their studio.

A Gallery who's showing work by this artist wants to print a large copy of this

photo to show it along side the artists work, but also produce a small to

medium limited print run to sell.

My suspicion is that because the photograph was taken on private property the

photographer will need the artists permission (release form) to sell the print.

Is this correct ?

Or would they only need their permission if using the photo in some other

context e.g. advertising an unrelated product ?

I have photographs in other such situations which I why want to sell one day,

but as pieces of art - NOT in any other context.

TIA.

Also, found from another thread here, see the links relating to dithering artefacts on the 970P Here :http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/6bit_8bit.htm

(I was looking at the 970P too, hence my interest. Now considering the 971P or Viewsonic VP930)

I don't have one but...

It seems to have just been replaced by the 971P

Does anybody know of any Photo Equipment Insurer (UK) that will allow you to

upgrade kit if you make a claim ?

I'm looking to insure approx ?2,000 (GBP) of equipment.

I do lots of nightclub / DJ type photography - so needs to be covered in

locations where Alcohol is served - someone once told me I should look out for

this as an exclusion. (I've already had half a drink spilt on my SLR!)

But if anything happens to my D70 I'd prefer to upgrade to a D200.

Most Insurers seem to cover on a new for old basis.

Don't have home content insurance so taking that out with camera stuff out-of-

home is also an option.

TIA

Good luck!

Not with deciding which one to get but with actually getting one at that price.

All the standard sellers seem to only do CRT's around ﾣ60 or ﾣ400+ price range. LCD's are now influencing the market so much.

I've done a bit of research and the favoured makes for Intermediate use (i.e. your + my price range) are : Viewsonic, Samsung, Mitsubishi DiamondPlus range. Seen a refernce to an NEC monitor being very good value for money but I can't find any in the UK.

Viewsonic have a new on in their G-range (that price range) coming out sometime in March so I'm hoping a few places will stock that.

Thanks.

New monitor it is then.

(Might also get a Calibration tool if I feel rich)

I have a old mid->low end 15" IIyama Monitor which is over 5 years

old now.

I'm noticing that it's struggling a bit with differentiating shades

towards the darker end of the scale (compared to my work + friends

standard monitors).

Do you think it's a case of buying a new monitor (as well as the well

overdue system as a whole) or would a calibration tool such as

Spyder2 etc be able to fix it ?

Tried calibrating with AdobeGamma and it initially went worse as I

couldn't even see the dark inner square in the initial tests!

Thanks.