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bas1

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Posts posted by bas1

  1. Keep the cron, dump the lux. I've had the same dilemma and dumped the cron in favor of the

    lux and regretted it ever since. My thinking was with the lux I'd have the quality of the cron

    with the luxury of an extra stop when I needed it for the light or the seperation.

     

    Fact is that the cron has such a beautiful signature that the lux cannot match. I'm looking to

    trade mine back for a cron.

  2. Vuk,

     

    It really depends on the light your going to be shooting in. I'm a 100% Tri-x man myself

    and from your pan F shots the ones that I prefer have really shallow DOF. Given the

    circumstances that might not have been feaseble on the Tri-X. On screen the difference

    between Pan F and Tri-x is really hard to see. Tri-X pulled to 200 or 100 is sufficiently low

    grain for me.

     

    Given this subject matter though I might prefer the Pan F if the light allows.

  3. Just tune down the output a but with a -1 compenstation and balance the flash with the

    available light. That will avoid any of the nasty flash charateristics you get and works in all

    situations unlike bounce flash. The SF20 and other small flashes are provide really good

    results if you know how to use them that beat bounce flash. Even when you bounce there

    really is no substitute for balancing your flash (as much as possible). That way you at least

    have a small flash that fits into any shirt pocket. A really nice feature to have if you don't

    use flash that much.

  4. I have a very simple one that may be of no use to you depending on what you shoot. For

    me the 35mm is the 50mm+more of the enviroment. Here are two shots. First is on the

    35mm at about the same distance as the second shot. If I want to focus on what they are

    doing I shoot the 50mm, if I wanna shoot where they are it's the 35mm. The difference is

    pretty close though.

     

    35mm summicron (4th version)

    <center><img src="http://users.skynet.be/am031079/photo/manege-010.jpg"></

    center>

     

    and here is the 50mm (summilux)

     

    <center><img src="http://users.skynet.be/am031079/photo/manege-004.jpg"></

    center>

  5. Thanks guys, I was soooo drunk when I posted that. I had to type with one eye closed...

    just had to post that before falling into bed to tell the wife how much I loved her. You can

    understand how welcome that was :-)

     

    Gup,

     

    This particular shot is was with the Leica. I shoot both Hasselblad and Leica.

  6. I browse this forum every single day, probably for most of the last couple of years and I

    just love it. Sometimes I get a bit sick of all the BS questions surounding issues about the

    VF in the M7 vs the MP camera and about the bokeh in X lens vs Y lens but still I come

    back evey single day. No other site or forum has managed to to capture my attention as

    this one has. Mostly I guess it's because of the common interest we have in photography

    binds us in a unique way. Therefore I share with you a completely trivial shot just because i

    l know there are likeminded souls out there...

     

    <center><img src="http://users.skynet.be/am031079/photo/leica-m2-test016.jpg"></

    center>

  7. Ollie,

     

    Funny that you should say that. I tried various crops too cause I was disappointed with the

    half face of the boy, but none of the crops worked. After a while though the image as a

    whole started growing on me, don't know why, but it has a sort of 'Arbus' feel for me at

    least.

  8. Key is to look at size ratio between foreground and background items. With wide angle

    lensses the further away items should be displayed disproportionately smaller. With tele-

    lensses you get the reverse. This off course doesn't make it any easier. 35 and 50 are so

    close that it is very hard to tell the difference even on close focus distances. With items

    further away it becomes almost impossible.

     

    In this case I would guess that both are shot with a normal to slight tele perspective. In the

    first there is almost no size difference between the kid in the foreground and the kid in the

    background eventhough there is quite some distance between them.

  9. The Leica flash is soooo small it tucks away nicely in a shirt pocket. Considering that I use

    flash only in absolutely must situations that is a nice feature. Would be nice to have a

    bounce version, but it does the job well as it is, although a bit hot. Standard with me is a

    -1 compensation.

  10. I use flash rarely and when I do I use a D40 TTL flash, preferably bare bulb. How good is

    the TTL flash? Well How Long is a chinese? The TTL works accurately and setting the flash

    exposure through the ISO dial is easy and quick. Fill flash outdoors is good and easy,

    especially since you can go to 1/500 if needed. The Metz gun is a good flash so no worries

    there either, but I do think you'll need the SCA module to use it with the 503CW.

     

    For studio flash a TTL set-up is not required. You'll be wanting to do manual there for the

    control. TTL in a studio is useless. Now that I know more about photography in general I'd

    have to say that a good auto flash is just as good and simple to operate as a TTL flash,

    especially on a Hasselblad. On the Hasselblad your not constantly going to change your

    exposures like you might if you'd use a 35mm in a more reportage style. My style is pretty

    arranged and so TTL gives me little to no benefits.

  11. You gotta explain this to me. you get a change to shoot these cheerleaders and you decide

    to make a composition in Portrait mode filled with 80% blue sky? Any sane male would go

    landscape and fill the frame. What where you thinking?

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