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tim_franklin

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Posts posted by tim_franklin

  1. Jeffrey wrote:

    "someone will mention that the shutter speed dial goes in the opposite direction but its

    not a big deal."

     

    If an M6TTL is to be your only Leica M body, then I'd agree. However, if it is to be paired

    with another M camera (excluding the M7) then it most definitely is a problem. Having two

    otherwise identical cameras which have just this small ergonomic difference can be a real

    pain when shooting.

  2. Its no Coke bottle. Yes, it suffers from coma wide open, and can flare somewhat. If your

    intention is to use the lens at or near maximum aperture most or all of the time, then the

    aspheric lens is a better choice (though larger), but at the kind of apertures most of us

    would use most of the time I love mine - in fact I sold my aspheric 35mm to re-purchase

    one, basically because I love the way the older lens renders things.

     

    If you want a small lens, don't overlook the 4th version Summicron, which is also a lovely

    optic. This and the old 'lux seem to sell for similar money here in the UK.

  3. The system was (to coin a phrase) "compact and bijou" during the twenties for fairly

    obvious reasons, and really only expanded from the 30s when interchangeable lenses

    became available. But.......

     

    Leafing through my copy of Laney's Collectors Guide, I find a cable release (FINAL - 1925),

    a Right-Angle Viewfinder (the delightfully coded WINKO - from 1929), a small ball head

    (FIAKU - 1926), Panoramic Tripod Head (FIAMA - 1926), an Angle Bracket to support the

    camera centrally, in either orientation, over the panoramic head (FIAVI - 1929), a shoe-

    mounted spirit level for same (FIBLA - 1929)

     

    Then we have the ingenious 75mm long stereo slide bar (FIARO), and the 150mm long

    (FIATE) whch replaced it (both 1926). With these the camera was first mounted at one end

    and a picture taken; the camera was then moved to the other end for the second shot.

     

    Filters and a lens hood (FISON) have already been mentioned, but Leitz also produced a

    range of close-up lenses from around 1928. There were nine variants (3 strengths for

    each of three different 50mm lenses). The four-legged reproduction stands to go with

    them appeared in c1931. Leitz New York produced the first type focusing stage (FULDY) in

    1930. In addition to these there were a variety of specialist devices for photomicrogaphy

    and photomacrography in both small plate camera (MICCA - 1924, for 4.5x6cm plates)

    and 35mm (MIFCA - c1925).

     

    Its a truly fascinating subject, and as the great Brian Tompkins says, "Leitz thought of

    everything"

  4. I'm not an owner (though considering it), but just a thought.

     

    Does the 5D have Personal Functions (like Custom Functions, but only settable via a

    computer)? If so, there is among these (on 1 series bodies) an option to set the maximum

    and minimum apertures the camera will go to regardless of lens (though no wider than the

    lens maximum, and no smaller than lens minimum of course).

     

    If this applies, could the setting be on f/5.6 maximum for some reason? Does this only

    happen with this lens, and not on others of equal or greater speed. If only on this lens,

    then it must be a lens problem I'd suggest.

  5. Morning Joe,

     

    I see since yesterday some people have recommended KEH. If you're US-based I'd agree

    with that. I'm in the UK, and haven't bought any hardware from them, just a few manuals.

    Service has always been excellent though IMHO.

     

    If its a budget tank you're after, I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned the Nikkormats.

    Probably the best all rounder would be the FT2, which, being a pre-1977 design requires

    lenses with "rabbit's ears" to couple with the meter. The FT3 is an alternative, and features

    AI coupling.

  6. Joe,

     

    Don't bother with the FM10 unless you're on a really tight budget. The camera is a budget

    model, which is actually made by Cosina and merely rebadged as a Nikon.

     

    The F2 by contrast is a professional camera built to the standards hard-working pros

    demand. These people don't baby their kit like the average amateur. On the subject of the

    one I owned, I should add that I bought it in about 1998 or 1999, by which time the

    camera had been out of production for something like 18 years.

     

    Judging by the state of some ex-MOD Nikon lenses I've seen in used equipment dealers

    (who really should have known better than to even pay money for them), the service

    personnel who get given these cameras don't especially baby them either, so that should

    give you an idea of the kind of treatment they can withstand.

     

    As for suggestions of other mechanical cameras that might interest you, in addition to

    those mentioned above check out the Nikon FM2 (the forerunner of the FM3a), the Canon

    F-1 or maybe even the Leica R6.2

  7. The review pages at http://www.fredmiranda.com/ are reasonably useful, though it is

    necessary to do some objective (no pun intended) filtration.

     

    Apart from that, I agree with Akira's recommendation for Nikon users to keep an eye on

    Bjorn Rorslett's site.

     

    To borrow a phrase from Chas & Dave, Bjorn appears to have more lenses than Jessops/

    B&H (delete according to location), and provides info on how these perform with newer

    digital models as well as older DSLRs and film. Excellent site.

  8. Like someone has said, even with sniping software you still need to put in a higher bid

    than any rival. The one time I used Powersnipe I was outbid, so what does that prove?

     

    Whilst some might see these as sneaky tools, I prefer to look at them as a way in which

    those on dial-up (like me) can level the playing-field a bit against the Broadband lot, and

    also like a proxy bidder in a "real" auction. Mr Smith would probably approve I reckon. :-)

  9. >>Fred C , jun 05, 2006; 05:46 p.m.

     

    >I read in a well respected UK magazine that the new ZM lenses were subject to vignetting

    which they felt could also prove a problem even to an APS-C size sensor. Myself, I have a

    Zeiss 28mm Biogon ( G2 camera version ) I have not personally experienced that problem.

     

    All lenses have light fall-off (an optical quality distinct from vignetting which is mechanical

    obstruction of the light path), not just the ZM's. Did the magazine mention how much? Or

    did it just make a blanket statement that all ZM's are uniformly bad in this regard?

     

    Zeiss publishes relevant charts for all their recent lenses. The G and ZM 28's have the

    same amount of light fall-off. (link)<<

     

    Fred,

     

    FWIW the review in question was in 27th May 2006 issue of UK Amateur Photographer

    magazine (and don't be fooled by the title into thinking this is some kind of garbage mag.

    It has the best review pages in any UK magazine I know), and was written by the

    immensely respected Geoffrey Crawley.

     

    In his summing up, GC writes that the Zeiss lenses (he had 21mm, 35mm and 50mm to

    hand) are "outstanding in the degree of sharpness and detail definition of which they are

    capable. Only in vignetting are they surprisingly let down."

     

    Lens design is, as we know, a system of compromises, and in acheiving the undoubted

    qualities of the ZM range, this is the price which Zeiss have decided to accept. The

    vignetting, as is the norm, is only noticeable at wider apertures.

  10. A comparison of these two lenses, by Jonathan Eastland, is in the new (31/5/06) issue of BJP.

     

    There are no firm conclusions drawn in the review, hence the quote marks in my thread title. The Zeiss

    lens is praised for its exceptional resolving power, which is undoubtedly superior to the old Nikkor.

     

    The article will appear on the magazine's web site - http://www.bjp-online.co.uk/ - in the next

    day or two, though non-subbers will probably need to take a free trial to read it.

  11. I'm not entirely certain. I just tried out a single cam 50mm from a Leicaflex on my SL2 and

    R3 bodies. The lens fits OK, but because you don't have the correct cams for the camera

    type, there is no connection between it and the meter, so you need to use stop-down.

     

    The easiest option is to get the 3rd cam fitted by Leica (or another service place if they can

    do so).

  12. >As to "affordability" and an "under $1000" body, at $20 for a roll of 36-exp C41 film,

    processing and 4x6 prints, a $5000 M8 can be thought of as a free camera and 250 rolls

    of prepaid film and processing. Assuming someone shoots only 5 rolls a month, that

    would take a little over 4 years.

     

    This always seems like a false argument to me. Do you, or anybody else here, really buy

    four years worth of film in one go? I know I don't. Even if you were to double the

    throughput to 10 rolls a month , so it would be two years worth (or to 20 a month, for one

    year's stock), the analogy holds IMHO.

  13. "the viewfinder, as far as I know, is identical to your M2."

     

    Apart from having the 135mm frame lines, which come up together with the 35mm frame.

     

    If, by the same viewfinder, you mean one-frame-at-a-time, then its the M2 I think Pico.

    Unless you'd be willing to send another body to a service agent to have the unwanted

    frames removed..

  14. Some real goodies so far. Cheers all!

     

    Miles Davis, Bob Dylan, Jerry Lee Lewis, Hank Williams, Laphroaig, Leica M, Nikon F, Vinyl

    LPs, 7" singles, I don't drive, but agree on the old Landrovers ( I still recall the acute angles

    my dad used to go along at when driving round the hills on the farm here!), Vincent Black

    Shadow maybe?

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