tim_franklin
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Posts posted by tim_franklin
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Its no Coke bottle. Yes, it suffers from coma wide open, and can flare somewhat. If your
intention is to use the lens at or near maximum aperture most or all of the time, then the
aspheric lens is a better choice (though larger), but at the kind of apertures most of us
would use most of the time I love mine - in fact I sold my aspheric 35mm to re-purchase
one, basically because I love the way the older lens renders things.
If you want a small lens, don't overlook the 4th version Summicron, which is also a lovely
optic. This and the old 'lux seem to sell for similar money here in the UK.
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The system was (to coin a phrase) "compact and bijou" during the twenties for fairly
obvious reasons, and really only expanded from the 30s when interchangeable lenses
became available. But.......
Leafing through my copy of Laney's Collectors Guide, I find a cable release (FINAL - 1925),
a Right-Angle Viewfinder (the delightfully coded WINKO - from 1929), a small ball head
(FIAKU - 1926), Panoramic Tripod Head (FIAMA - 1926), an Angle Bracket to support the
camera centrally, in either orientation, over the panoramic head (FIAVI - 1929), a shoe-
mounted spirit level for same (FIBLA - 1929)
Then we have the ingenious 75mm long stereo slide bar (FIARO), and the 150mm long
(FIATE) whch replaced it (both 1926). With these the camera was first mounted at one end
and a picture taken; the camera was then moved to the other end for the second shot.
Filters and a lens hood (FISON) have already been mentioned, but Leitz also produced a
range of close-up lenses from around 1928. There were nine variants (3 strengths for
each of three different 50mm lenses). The four-legged reproduction stands to go with
them appeared in c1931. Leitz New York produced the first type focusing stage (FULDY) in
1930. In addition to these there were a variety of specialist devices for photomicrogaphy
and photomacrography in both small plate camera (MICCA - 1924, for 4.5x6cm plates)
and 35mm (MIFCA - c1925).
Its a truly fascinating subject, and as the great Brian Tompkins says, "Leitz thought of
everything"
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Send a message to Roger Hicks. I believe he owns both these lenses.
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I'm not an owner (though considering it), but just a thought.
Does the 5D have Personal Functions (like Custom Functions, but only settable via a
computer)? If so, there is among these (on 1 series bodies) an option to set the maximum
and minimum apertures the camera will go to regardless of lens (though no wider than the
lens maximum, and no smaller than lens minimum of course).
If this applies, could the setting be on f/5.6 maximum for some reason? Does this only
happen with this lens, and not on others of equal or greater speed. If only on this lens,
then it must be a lens problem I'd suggest.
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Morning Joe,
I see since yesterday some people have recommended KEH. If you're US-based I'd agree
with that. I'm in the UK, and haven't bought any hardware from them, just a few manuals.
Service has always been excellent though IMHO.
If its a budget tank you're after, I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned the Nikkormats.
Probably the best all rounder would be the FT2, which, being a pre-1977 design requires
lenses with "rabbit's ears" to couple with the meter. The FT3 is an alternative, and features
AI coupling.
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Joe,
Don't bother with the FM10 unless you're on a really tight budget. The camera is a budget
model, which is actually made by Cosina and merely rebadged as a Nikon.
The F2 by contrast is a professional camera built to the standards hard-working pros
demand. These people don't baby their kit like the average amateur. On the subject of the
one I owned, I should add that I bought it in about 1998 or 1999, by which time the
camera had been out of production for something like 18 years.
Judging by the state of some ex-MOD Nikon lenses I've seen in used equipment dealers
(who really should have known better than to even pay money for them), the service
personnel who get given these cameras don't especially baby them either, so that should
give you an idea of the kind of treatment they can withstand.
As for suggestions of other mechanical cameras that might interest you, in addition to
those mentioned above check out the Nikon FM2 (the forerunner of the FM3a), the Canon
F-1 or maybe even the Leica R6.2
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Joe,
These cameras are built like tanks!
Apart from the meter (which is in the removable prism) there are no electronic bits to go
wrong. I once owned a ex-MOD (UK Ministry of Defence) F2A. After a service to have the
foams replaced, and the camera checked over it gave me no problems for the six years or
so that I had it.
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The review pages at http://www.fredmiranda.com/ are reasonably useful, though it is
necessary to do some objective (no pun intended) filtration.
Apart from that, I agree with Akira's recommendation for Nikon users to keep an eye on
Bjorn Rorslett's site.
To borrow a phrase from Chas & Dave, Bjorn appears to have more lenses than Jessops/
B&H (delete according to location), and provides info on how these perform with newer
digital models as well as older DSLRs and film. Excellent site.
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Like someone has said, even with sniping software you still need to put in a higher bid
than any rival. The one time I used Powersnipe I was outbid, so what does that prove?
Whilst some might see these as sneaky tools, I prefer to look at them as a way in which
those on dial-up (like me) can level the playing-field a bit against the Broadband lot, and
also like a proxy bidder in a "real" auction. Mr Smith would probably approve I reckon. :-)
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>+ 6.000 Dollars for that camera is crazy.
It is, or it isn't. Unfortunately for our US friends, Leica don't have control over Dollar-Euro
exchange rates. Suggest you discuss with your government. ;-)
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Duh! me likey heavy metal thing. pretty picture too. ;-)
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>>Fred C , jun 05, 2006; 05:46 p.m.
>I read in a well respected UK magazine that the new ZM lenses were subject to vignetting
which they felt could also prove a problem even to an APS-C size sensor. Myself, I have a
Zeiss 28mm Biogon ( G2 camera version ) I have not personally experienced that problem.
All lenses have light fall-off (an optical quality distinct from vignetting which is mechanical
obstruction of the light path), not just the ZM's. Did the magazine mention how much? Or
did it just make a blanket statement that all ZM's are uniformly bad in this regard?
Zeiss publishes relevant charts for all their recent lenses. The G and ZM 28's have the
same amount of light fall-off. (link)<<
Fred,
FWIW the review in question was in 27th May 2006 issue of UK Amateur Photographer
magazine (and don't be fooled by the title into thinking this is some kind of garbage mag.
It has the best review pages in any UK magazine I know), and was written by the
immensely respected Geoffrey Crawley.
In his summing up, GC writes that the Zeiss lenses (he had 21mm, 35mm and 50mm to
hand) are "outstanding in the degree of sharpness and detail definition of which they are
capable. Only in vignetting are they surprisingly let down."
Lens design is, as we know, a system of compromises, and in acheiving the undoubted
qualities of the ZM range, this is the price which Zeiss have decided to accept. The
vignetting, as is the norm, is only noticeable at wider apertures.
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Journeyman
2 M-series bodies (1 new, 1 s/h)
3 lenses (2 focal lengths) (all s/h)
film only at present. considering a DSLR, but only for less important stuff.
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>I remember one of my favorite Leica photographers when he first saw Gibson's pictures.
So, do we get a name (or a clue) then? ;-)
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And a quantity of air of course! ;-)
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A comparison of these two lenses, by Jonathan Eastland, is in the new (31/5/06) issue of BJP.
There are no firm conclusions drawn in the review, hence the quote marks in my thread title. The Zeiss
lens is praised for its exceptional resolving power, which is undoubtedly superior to the old Nikkor.
The article will appear on the magazine's web site - http://www.bjp-online.co.uk/ - in the next
day or two, though non-subbers will probably need to take a free trial to read it.
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Should add that there's no metering at all with the single cam/R3 combo.
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I'm not entirely certain. I just tried out a single cam 50mm from a Leicaflex on my SL2 and
R3 bodies. The lens fits OK, but because you don't have the correct cams for the camera
type, there is no connection between it and the meter, so you need to use stop-down.
The easiest option is to get the 3rd cam fitted by Leica (or another service place if they can
do so).
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She's got something to read in the meantime anyway! ;-)
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>As to "affordability" and an "under $1000" body, at $20 for a roll of 36-exp C41 film,
processing and 4x6 prints, a $5000 M8 can be thought of as a free camera and 250 rolls
of prepaid film and processing. Assuming someone shoots only 5 rolls a month, that
would take a little over 4 years.
This always seems like a false argument to me. Do you, or anybody else here, really buy
four years worth of film in one go? I know I don't. Even if you were to double the
throughput to 10 rolls a month , so it would be two years worth (or to 20 a month, for one
year's stock), the analogy holds IMHO.
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"the viewfinder, as far as I know, is identical to your M2."
Apart from having the 135mm frame lines, which come up together with the 35mm frame.
If, by the same viewfinder, you mean one-frame-at-a-time, then its the M2 I think Pico.
Unless you'd be willing to send another body to a service agent to have the unwanted
frames removed..
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Some real goodies so far. Cheers all!
Miles Davis, Bob Dylan, Jerry Lee Lewis, Hank Williams, Laphroaig, Leica M, Nikon F, Vinyl
LPs, 7" singles, I don't drive, but agree on the old Landrovers ( I still recall the acute angles
my dad used to go along at when driving round the hills on the farm here!), Vincent Black
Shadow maybe?
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Just a test to see if I can get François' name to show correctly. If it works, then the solution
is alt-C! ;-)
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Difference between Leica M6 models
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
Jeffrey wrote:
"someone will mention that the shutter speed dial goes in the opposite direction but its
not a big deal."
If an M6TTL is to be your only Leica M body, then I'd agree. However, if it is to be paired
with another M camera (excluding the M7) then it most definitely is a problem. Having two
otherwise identical cameras which have just this small ergonomic difference can be a real
pain when shooting.