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tony_brookes

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Posts posted by tony_brookes

  1. Thanks for the interesting information about Kodachrome. Of course they are right in saying that it's just business and as soon as costs exceed revenue exit Kodachrome. However that point might be quite some way ahead if manufacturing costs are low - processing it is simply a pricing problem. They may find that they can continue slightly increasing the price for some time especially as it is a unversally known brand amongst photographers.

     

    As for Scott Eaton's remarks, methinks he doth protest too much. Heavy cumbersome gear ? No sparkle in his pics ? Can't photograph silver or gold ?

     

    Well there is an answer Mr.Eaton.

  2. Gene - I'm a bit late answering your query but I have a 2.8F Planar Rollei and a F3.5 Ikoflex and a F2.8 Ikoflex. I used to have a 3.5F Rollei and cannot tell the difference in the negs. compared with the 2.8F. The Tessar is not as sharp as either of the Planars wider than F5.6 but up to that the Tessar is as good - up to 20x16 prints. The 2.8F I have is great because of its coupled meter but I love the Ikoflex III with the 2.8Tessar.
  3. Two weeks ago I sent my Rollei 2.8F to Brian Mickleburgh at the

    Studio Workshop to correct two stiff wheels. It was returned with the

    wheels now operating smoothly but on immeditaely loading a film the

    focus knob kept jamming. A tap on the camera would free it but it

    jammed every time. I promptly parcelled it up and sent it back - just

    12 hours after receiving it. On Monday I telephoned Brian to tell him

    the camera was on its way back but could get no reply. I have tried

    at least 20 times since then without any response. Can anybody tell

    me whether they are temporarily closed or whatever ? I have not yet

    had the camera returned by the post office. If I do get it back can

    anyone please kindly give me the name of another UK firm that can be

    trusted. many thanks.

  4. There used to be a distinct difference between Leitz lenses and other makes - I'm talking pre-war - and this was attributed by many as being due to what is now called bokeh. But it was more than that, as many prewar Leica pictures showed a sort of plasticity that made the subjects look more real. I am sure there was an optical reason. Nowadays the differences are much less, if at all, with some lenses. The opposition has caught up and technology has made it possible to produce lenses of the highest quality at competitive prices. Before the second world war Leitz were pre -eminent in the high standards they set and in the control of tolerances in camera production. I still believe they are the best but up to 12x16 it is very difficult to identify any real superiority.
  5. Michel - You would soon regret selling your M6. I have a Rolleiflex and an M6 and the differences are vast. As to image quality you need only worry about it if you blow up to more than 12x16. There is no doubt that my Rollei produces sharper images on very large prints. But, oh boy, is the Rollei clumsy . Compared to a Leica it's all fingers and thumbs and terribly slow. Focussing is not as easy for accuracy and of course you are limited to 1/500th. But I like using the Rollei if I can take lazy planned pictures. For spontaneity the Leica is king.
  6. I have an Ikoflex camera Serial No. 563229 fitted with a 75 mm F3.5

    Zeiss Tessar Serial no. 643836 in a Synchro Compur Shutter to

    1/500th sec. I have always thought that it was an Ikoflex III later

    type - (I also have a genuine III with the Albada finder and a F2.8

    Tessar.) However I have now been told that there were some IIas

    fitted with twin wheels which looked just like a III. Is there a kind

    Zeiss aficionado out there who can put me straight?

  7. Go to the Pacific Rim Camera site. www.pacificrimcamera.com/pp/rolleiflex They set out all the Rollei models and their differences. I think the E does not hav a couple meter but the site will tell you.
  8. I only make borderless prints. I use a piece of thin (about 1cm thick) white worktop which I mark with my print sizes e.g 10x8 12x 16 etc. with black paint.On the bottom side I stick a thin (3mm thick) piece of foam. I then place the worktop on the enlarger base. Once every couple of months I spray the topside of the worktop with 3M spray mountant. When the paper is placed for printing it stays flat and in place. When the mountant has lost its tackiness I wipe the worktop with white spirit and recoat with mountant. I have been using this process for over 20 years and know plenty of people who have copied this system.
  9. I am afraid I cannot comment on Leica filters on an M6 but I have just used a B&W Orange flter on my M6 and notice a loss of sharpness. Of course this may be a contrast problem and not the glass but from now on I shall not use my B&W unless I really have to. I have used Leitz filters on my Leica III and have noticed no loss of sharpness.
  10. The apaerture and speed dials on my Rolleir 2.8F have become stiff

    after approx one year without use. The camera has been kept in a dry

    place. Is there anything I can do myself to free them off a little.

    They both still turn but need hard pressure and effort.

  11. Bob. I agree with Al - set your shutter and then just move the aperture ring to get the two red arrows. Many years ago I tried with a Contarex setting the aperture and then adjusting the speed . Result blurred images. I can't recall a single out of focus or blurred image using Al's way. Good luck.
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