david_skirmont

<p>I love the BG-E11. Very solid. <br /><br />I have a stroboframe Pro-T. The old twist plate from my 5D is about 2mm too short.<br />I tried an NF-5 and a BE-1. The folks at Tiffen say to use the universal plate which doesn't have the<br />nice lip.<br /><br />Does anyone know which anti-twist plate to use with the new grip?<br /><br />Happy shooting.<br /><br />DAS</p>

There is some overlap, but I need the 17mm quite a bit.

 

If you need 17-23, then you need the lens.

Think of it as a cool battle scar. A camera is a tool, not a piece of art!

I think it is a lighting variation. 2 second exposure? Maybe that's the problem too.

 

Take a picture outdoors of the sky to get uniform brightness and color.

 

If you can't see it in real photos don't let it bother you.

I see the vignetting, but fail to see the colorshift. The right side is darker or something.

 

Do you see it in a picture of blue sky? Grey card? White wall?

It may be just the light fall-off or the original subject. Have you verified

it by the color sample in photoshop? Use LAB to ignore the brightness difference.

I bought a lot of Bronica and LF stuff from KEH.

I never had any issues, the rating were accurate.

 

DAS

I have the 17-40L and love it. There have only been a few times that I need more of a wide angle.

Good lens especially for the price.

I have used the 24-70 on a D30 and the 24-105 on a 5D.

This is for party and convention photos.

 

I would get the 24-105. The 105 gives a good overlap

with a 70-200. It makes the long end on a FF like what you would get

with the 24-70 on the 20D. I take most of my pictures with the 24-105

on my 5D. The 24-70 would be too short sometimes for a FF.

 

The 24 end on a 20D is sometimes not short enough for groups.

The FF fixes that. But I still use the 17-40 quite a bit.

 

The IS is worth it. Useless you need available light, get the 24-105.

 

DAS

Is there something lacking in your 400D?

 

While there are differences in the two cameras, you'll

get more mileage waiting for the 50D. But why change even then.

 

I have a 5D and it takes great pictures with the 17-40. The

same lens on my sister's xti takes great pictures too. Can you

tell the difference? Sure. Does it matter? not really except for 16x20. Will anyone notice? most likely not.

 

Keep the body and spend money on a good second lens. 24-105? 70-200?

That will be a difference you can see. 70-200 is great for portraits.

Resist the lure of an upgrade. When the 20D came out it was hot stuff.

Why is it junk now? The 40D will be considered junk soon too.

The grip helps balance a big lens like the 70-200.

 

I also have the hand strap for extra security. You don't have to

always hold on to the camera tightly with it.

 

The extra battery is a plus. And it does look cool.

 

DAS

I always take a picture on the sky at f22 before and after a long

day of shooting and lens changes to monitor dust.

I don't want to be surprised later. It also helps anxiety over lens changes by seeing that you really don't accumulate it that fast.

Clean it the spots are bad enough. The factory dust needed a sensor

swab. Any new dust just needs the bulb.

 

DAS

I would keep the 17-40. I use it a lot on my 5D for groups and landscapes. You'll regret selling it.

 

The 50mm is really good for low light. You may be able to get by without the zoom of the 24-70.

 

The 24-105 is my normal lens. I find I use either the long end or the

short end the most.

 

So don't sell anything now, get the 24-105 later.

 

DAS

 

DAS

I use the ultra II cards. I can shoot continuously. The 9 frame buffer

helps minimize any CF speed disadvantage. If you use a card reader the

speed may help.

 

I have the battery grip. I have shot 400 pictures over 8+ hours with

IS, per shot LCD review, max brightness, and AF and still

had 50% battery left each night. I have never used the 2 extra batteries I have.

 

Figure an easy 750 shoots with review per 2 batteries with AF and IS.

 

The 5D is a great camera, be sure to get good lenses.

 

DAS

I have both a VP2030 and a VP2130.

 

They are excellent for the money ~$500.

 

Be sure to calibrate them.

 

DAS

They are both excellent. The high end of the 24-105 may come in handy.

The IS "generally" compensates for the 1-stop difference.

 

Having used both, I would get the 24-105.

I have shot a lot of wakeboarding and water skiing.

I use a 5D and the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS.

 

http://imageevent.com/skirmont/deltajuly2006?p=10&n=1&m=24&c=4&l=0&w=4&s=0&z=2

 

http://imageevent.com/skirmont/deltajuly2006?p=4&b=-1&m=24&c=4&w=4&s=1&n=1&l=0&z=9

 

I usually used a focal length of 135mm. At ISO400 there wasn't to

much of a problem. You don't want the action totally frozen, the

water needs a bit of a blur.

 

Buy a good lens, you'll be glad you have it 8 years from now.

 

The IS really helps too.

 

DAS

I used to take pictures with a Bronica 645 and a 4x5.

 

After looking at shots from my 5D, I will never use the Bronica

again. The 4x5 still produces better results but it is a pain to use.

 

The speed, exposure, IS, and everything else that comes with a

good camera like the 5D makes MF a thing of the past for me.

No more buying film, processing, scanning, correcting.

 

Don't bother with MF. Get the 5D and L lenses.

I have the 2.8 IS.

 

It is razor sharp. No complaints. The IS feature also helps at

reasonable shutter speeds like 1/60, 1/125, and 1/200.

 

I have no complaints coming from a MF and LF background.

 

The IS feature will far outweigh the image degradation.

After taking pictures at both 100 and 400, I now almost always use

ISO400. It gives me good depth of field and fast shutter. Blown

up to 16x20ish still looks great close up. Very little effect.

I have to point it out to people.

The image quality of the 5D will be limited by the lens.

I would spead the money on two or three L lenses.

17-40L, 24-105 IS L, 70-200L, 400 5.6L

 

My friend's D30 with an L lens is way better than another's

with a 20D and a non-L lens. It is the lens.

 

It is even more apparent on a FF camera. The 5D will only

show the issues with your set of lenses.

I have had great success with my 5D and 5 lenses from amazon.

 

I bought lots of MF stuff from KEH. No problems.

 

Same with adorama and B&H.

 

Can't go wrong with any of those.

 

DAS

I just about threw my ETRSi in the trash after getting my 5D.

 

I had high expectations and they were exceeded. The pictures

have astounding detail.

 

Only my 4x5 will be better, but I am done with film.

It depends on the kind of AAs.

 

The BP-511A is 1390mAh. Two of those in a BG is 2780mAh total

since they are in parallel.

 

Six really good AA's will be about 2500mAh each, but they

are in series to get 7.2V (6x1.2V). Cheaper ones can be 1100 mAh.

The mAh don't add in this case.

 

Ignoring voltage fall off, just compare the mAh ratings.

 

I have taken 500+ pictures over 4-5 hours. Camera on all

the time, max LCD preview, max brightness, 70-200 IS, AI servo.

All the power eating things. No change on the LCD battery level,

charger is sometimes 50% (blinks twice), sometimes blinks once.

This is with tqo BP-511As

 

DAS

You can use any paper. Make sure you have a profile for it.

 

Try amazon or buy.com for Epson papers.

UV filter tend to cut the effects of haze.

 

I noticed it a lot when shooting BW with older lens.

 

I like to wipe of the filter with my shirt too. I

don't have to worry about scratching the lens coating.

 

Is there image degradation with the UV? Very slight with

a good filter. Nobody complains about image degradation

when using polarizing filters or stacking color correction filters!