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joop

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    hexar rf random film rewind r

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>I have found the following some time back on the internet, and saved it on my computer, might help you:</p>

    <p> ------------</p>

    <p>"Hexar RF film advance error <br />I recently purchased a Hexar RF, it's in excellent condition but once in a few times I turn on the main switch, <br />the frame counter read will return to 0 and the motor automatically advances a frame to make it 1.<br /><br />For example, I shoot 12 frames and turn the camera off. The next time I turn it on, there is a high chance for me to find the frame counter showing 0 and the motor advances to make it 1, but I'm acutally on frame 13.<br /><br />It seems the camera will only auto-rewind when it hits frame 37 on the frame counter. But since it always goes back to 0 and then 1 so it never auto-rewinds — I have to use the manual rewind button to force it rewind.<br /><br />Any idea about what I'm up to people?<br /><br />I googled and it doesn't seem to be a common problem: all I get are praises of the motor. I live in Canada and it's a darn royal pain getting staff from KEH, with all the COD and clearance thing. Plus, this copy of Hexar RF really is in nice cosmetic condition and the film advancing is the only problem I have encountered so far. That is, I am trying not to send it back and forth...unless it turned out to be something I can't get rid of myself. Thanks for the help,<br /><br />Answers<br /><br />The memory is forgetting the frame number when you turn off the camera. That memory relies on battery power. So perhaps there is some reason that the battery power to that memory is ureliable.<br />Most obvious possible cause would be that the battery is weak. Another possible cause is intermittent battery contact. Gently wipe all the contacts with a soft cloth. If they look all scratched up from someone trying to clean them with something scratchy, there may be no hope.<br /><br />--<br />I just fixed this on my Hexar RF, and posted it over on rangefinderforum.com. The fault appears to be dirty <br />contacts on the switch that senses the film door is shut.<br /><br />Try the following. I'd like to see it work in one other camera before I conceed "it's the fix":<br /><br />I took my "user" HEXAR RF off the shelf yesterday with the intent of "exercising" it. Popped in a fresh roll, <br />counter up to "1", walked around a bit, looked down and notice it back to "0" -- the dreaded film transport issue. <br />Power-cycled it, and it advanced three frames, back to "1". With some shaking and fiddling I was able to repeat this enough times to expend the entire roll, unexposed (still have one of those leader-puller-thingys in the bag --- end of roll, 0 on the counter, and hit manual rewind and you don't get the rewind leader pause). This camera had this issue years ago, and it was fixed by K-M repair in Japan, just before the Sony sale.<br /><br />Video of the fault:

    /><br />I took a quick look through the service manual and camera schematic and found that the rear door switch is noted as "normally open", which implies that closing the camera back closes the switch, which I am guessing, if there is any corrosion on the contacts, will open contact sporadically and tell the camera the back was opened.<br /><br />Before I sent it out again, I decided to try some heavy duty electronics switch and corrosion cleaner.<br />The switch location is visible... with the back of the camera open, look along the light baffle channel on the bottom, <br />about 1/3 of the width of the camera in from the left. You will see a small opening in the channel, with a switch post <br />about 1mm in diameter protruding... this is the switch that senses if the back is closed. It is wired directly to a pin on the camera microprocessor (as an aside, it looks like it cannot be removed/chnaged out by simply removing the bottom -- based on the service manual, it takes almost full dis assembly to remove it or swap it out. You can see it, though, if you take off the bottom).<br />I opened the film back, and I applied some DeoxIt to the switch. RadioShack sells a 5% spritzer kit; I purchased a needle-spout bottle of 100% stuff directly from the manufacturer -- about US$30 (part number D100L-25C)<br /><br />With the back open I used a toothpick to push down the button (opening up the cavity around it) and held it down; with the other hand I applied 4 or 5 drops of the 100% stuff via the "needle" dispenser I purchased it in. I left the camera lens/face-down overnight on the table to let gravity take it into the interior of the switch. The DeoxIt specs says that it is plastic-safe.<br /><br />So far, two passes the next morning with a "dummy" roll, shaking, pressing the back and power cycling the camera as I did on the video, no "zeroes". I have now put three rolls through it and it hasn't done it.<br />Give it a try. If you try something other that Deoxit (www.caig.com) you are on your own; make sure it won't destroy the plastic case of the switch. "<br>

    ---<br>

    It's not mine, and I do not remember anymore where I have copied it from, but I hope it is of some use!</p>

    Amsterdam in a few days

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Some places I like are for wanderings: view from the terrace of the new library, just east of the central station. In that same neigbourhood is the roof of the technology museum Nemo, both can be entered for free. Next to that you'll find the stedelijk museum, for modern art.

    If you like markets you should go to the noordermarkt on saterday,

    or on any day of the week (except sunday) to the albert cuyp markt.

    Th nieuwmarkt is a nice sqaure, more authentic than the other big squares. Next to the nieuwmarkt you'll find the "china-town".

    Also go to the photo museum FOAM (http://www.foam.nl/) or "huis marseille (http://www.huismarseille.nl/) opposite the FOAM you find a nice 17th century house / museum (www.museumvanloon.nl/).

    If you have a day left, you could also take the train (~15 minutes) and go 1 day to visit Zandvoort (the beach) and Haarlem, a very nice old little town.

    Have fun! (I live for 12 yrs in A'dam now, and never had any problems with people trying to steal a camera)

    Underexposed slides from my M2, handheld meter wrong or shutter overhaul needed?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Exactly what I had with my gossen digisix. (i think it's the same meter but no flash option). In my case, the under exposure happened in bright sunlight. Inside, in dim lighting it was mostly o.k. My nikon F3 also gave a stop lower reading. I was also not very happy with the

    repeatability of my measurements. Measure 3 times the same light and you get at least 2 different readings. I went back to CV meter. I lost the first one from the hot-shoe, and bought the digisix, but after a while a bought another CV meter which gives great exposed slides in any situation. (but is clumsy when using e.g. 15mm viewer.)

    Cheers, Joop

    Salgado picture series on coffee

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Scot, it is said that mr. Salgado used leica R for "workers" and probably "Migrations" (here I'm not 100% sure). For his Genesis project he used Pentax 645 mediumformat. This is what I've read in articles about him in newspapers and on the internet. For me, these pictures look quite similar to the workers pictures, so these could have been taken with leica-R. But what does it matter? It's just nice / inspiring to see some good black and white work.

    best manual focus solution for zeiss lens on 400D ?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Hi, I just got a 400D with a 17-50/2.8 tamron.

    However, I also have a contax 35/1.4 (and some nikkors) I'd like to use on the

    camera using an adapter. I have a adapter without AF-chip

    for the focus confirmation.

    Manual focussing is really hard, so I have to get either a AF-chip

    on the adapter, or one of the special focussing screens haoda of katz-eye or ..?

    Do I understand correctly that I would loose my little red AF lights in

    the finder with such an alternative screen?

    (that would be not so nice with the tamron lens)

     

     

    Do I also have to correct for the exposure with one of those screens?

    Can I set that somewhere in the menu?

    or is that the standard over/underexposure setting I'll have to use?

     

    What are your experiences? What's the best solution?

    Thanks for your advice!

    To M8 or not

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I think there are a lot of people that don't need a digital camera.

    Like me. Just because it exists doesn't mean everyone needs one.

    For just "trying" if you like digital the M8 is seems a bit expensive...

    Just my 2c

    First M kit....

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    > I think I want the painterly Lux, not the clinical Cron ASPH

     

    In that case, you don't want the asph lux, but the older pre-asph one, I guess. The two asph. lenses have a very similar in fingerprint, only the 'lux is one stop faster.

    digital Zeiss-Ikon body, when?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Re: Hexar:

    I sent my HRF off for repair in the end of September 2005,

    i got it back in March2006.

    The internal frame had been broken due to a

    drop on the ground it had made in 2003.

    (I did not drop it ever since)

    Inmediately after the drop (2003) had been repaired by Konica and I got it back in working condition. Apparently the parts of the frame were still stuck together and it crack didn't show.

    In Sept. 2005 maybe due to vibrations of some kind, the frame really came loose in two parts and apparently caused to camera to show the blinking "10" error message.

     

    April 2006 got a new frame in my camera, and Konica-M didn't charge anything cause it had taken so long (6 months).

     

    Still inside the camera store I tested the camera, it turned out the

    lightmeter was not properly connected, I had a blinking 1/4 sec. in

    the viewfinder for any kind of lighting and aperture setting.

     

    So the store agreed to send it back right away.

    That was April. This time it had to be send to Sony, since they took

    over all camera business of K-M.

    So I got it back in June 2006. Sony had sent a bill but

    my camera store agreed that the repair should be for free.

    I shot a film again.

    Guess what? it's 1 long frame with strange dark stripes.

    So I held the camera against the light and pushed the shutter.

    The shutter opens twice. When re-cocking the shutter during the film

    transport to the next frame, the 2nd (or 1st) curtain is also open so

    light directly falls on the film.

    It has been at Sony ever since. Now they have decided it is no longer repairable. It took them 1 yr to figure that out.

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