tak_l._poon1
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Posts posted by tak_l._poon1
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<p>There are 2 versions of the 1.4x longar (or 3 ?, with the oldest being one for non-PQ lenses? ). They are the 6000 and the AF. The posterior element of the 90mm macro is protruding too long and definitely will damage the 1.4x. It works with the 300mm, and the 80 xenotars (both f/2 and f/2.8). Only the AF will retain autofocus function. It also work with the 150mm macro symmar with a 67mm extension tube in between. It doesn't work with 80 planar for the same reasson as the 90 macro. As I do not have other zeiss lenses I do not whether it work with them or not. Cheers. Tak</p>
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<p>I am sorry for the fragmented answers. This lens is not for close-up portraits. I would suggest you use a longer lens like the 110 or 120 or 80mm xenotar + 1.4x longar. Tak</p>
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<p>To summarise :</p>
<p>6 cm subject: extension tube 67, exposure compensation 2 stops.<br>
12 cm subject: extension tube 34, exposure compensation 1 stop.<br>
14 to 24 cm subject: no extension tube needed. exposure compensation 0 - 1/3 stop.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Tak</p>
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<p>I guess the font comes with Windows vista and 7 and it is called Constantia. Tak</p>
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<p>PS you do not need 9 or 17 mm extension tubes. One 34 mm and one 67 mm tube will be the best companion of this lens. Tak</p>
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<p>Hi Vania,</p>
<p>I have been using this lens extensively on 6008i, 6008af and Hy6 and I have a full callibration of this lens.</p>
<p>Hope the following information would be helpful to you:</p>
<p>This lens uses a filter size of 95mm</p>
<p>As it has a wide and long built-in hood, when you come to 1:1 your subject will be around 100mm in front of your lens.</p>
<p >Callibration information for 90mm apo-symmar on Rollei 6008 or Hy6: (all measurements in mm)</p>
<p > </p>
<p >A: Extension tube = 0</p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 2000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 1188</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 877</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1200</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 690</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 566</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 900</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 504</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 800</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 442</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 700</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 380</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 600</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 317</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 550</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 286</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 255</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 450</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 224</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 420</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 0.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 205</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >B: Extension tube = 34 mm</p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 2000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 132</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 127</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1200</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 122</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 117</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 900</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 115</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 800</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 111</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 700</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 107</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 600</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 101</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 550</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 98</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 94</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 450</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 89</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 420</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.3</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 86</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >C: Extension tube = 67 mm</p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 2000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 71</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 69</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1200</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 68</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 1000</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 66</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 900</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 65</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 800</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 1.7</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 64</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 700</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 63</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 600</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 61</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 550</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 60</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 500</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 58</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 450</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 56</p>
<p > </p>
<p > </p>
<p >Object distance scale setting: 420</p>
<p >Exposure compensation (stops): 2</p>
<p >Field of view on 56mm of film: 55</p>
<p > <br>
I am sorry if I have included too many intermediate steps but editting the table is more tedious than I thought.<br>
The other lens that you may consider is the 150 macro, but it needs a long extension of 300 mm (full bellow plus 67 and 34 extension tubes to go to 1:1) So the 90 should best suit your purpose, and give you arguably the best performance that money can buy. <br>
Cheers,</p>
<p>Tak</p>
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<p>Dear Mike,</p>
<p>I have real world experience of a GREAT way of measuring Macro exposure in natural and/or flash and you can do away with all concerns of lens design and calculations.</p>
<p>First of all, mount your camera on a tripod, using the same lens without extension tubes and focusing at an object of medium distance.</p>
<p>Use a handheld meter (one that can check both incidence and reflected lighting). Attach the flash triggering cable to your meter. and meter with the white hemisphere pointing your camera. Note the EV for natural light. Note the aperture for flash. For example it could be f/16.</p>
<p>Ask someone to hold a gray card in front of the object facing your camera. Note the full open aperture of your lens: for example it could be f/4.</p>
<p>Point your hand held meter through the view finder at your gray card. You have to check it by looking through the view finder of your meter. Note the EV (natural light) or aperture value (when you trigger your flash again). For example it could be f.5.6.</p>
<p>Then you know your callibrations. This will be the same for this lens regardless of the object distance or whether it is macro or not.</p>
<p>When you do your real macro photography, place a gray card in front of your object. keep the lens aperture open at f/4. Point your hand held meter through the camera view finder at the gray card. Adjust the intensity and distance of your flash (any flash or any combination of flashes) so that your meter register f/5.6. You use manual aperture of f/16. If your meter register f/8, then you use f/22 and so on. The original callibration is most important.</p>
<p>Cheers.</p>
<p>Tak</p>
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<p>Rolleiflex X-act-2, and<br>
Rolleiflex 6008 or Hy6 with 55mm PCS<br>
are more expensive options. Tak</p>
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<p>I have not done this but theoretically i can think of 2 ways of using view camera lenses on the 6008. One is to attach an M39 screw mount to the rear of the lens with customade screw threaded rings and use this on the 59926. second is to attach a lens board to a 34mm extension tube. even superglue can be used. when shooting simply set the shutter to B, flip up the mirror, and use the lens shutter to take a picture. Tak</p>
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<p>The orginal mount plus the back part of the lens tube was removed and an M39 screw mount was attached. this can then be used on the 59926 shutter adapter. I have the imagon 200 modified in this way. Only lenses with focal lengths longer than 150mm can be focused to infinity. The imagon is a true telephoto lens. the back part of the lens casing was an empty tube, and it was just sawed away. I still need a 67 mm extension tube placed between the 59926 and the camera body. Tak</p>
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<p>Hi Oculus,<br>
I am living and working in HK and I have been using only rolleiflex since the eighties. For the over 30 lenses I am still owning, I have never experienced any separation of glasses even in the wettest days. Factory repairs are usually done by Jebsen. But Vintage cameras are better repaired by reputed local workshops.<br>
the following has good reputation and good workmanship, and they have repaired and modified several of my vintage rodenstock lenses to be used with my 6008.<br>
they are one of the official dealers of Leica, and that should add to their credibility.</p>
Address:
Kinefoto Ltd<br />66-68 Stanley Street G/F, Shop 1<br />Central, Hong Kong
Phone:
2523 2087
Fax:
2522 1587
<p>Best regards,</p>
<p>Tak</p>
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<p>Hi Klaus, I am not an engineer, and I may not be able to answer all your questions. but the shutters normally do not need calibration. and certainly setting to 'A' is not a calibration or reset (some lenses do not go to 1/1000). but contact problems inside the camera knob, at the bayonet, inside the lens case are all possibilities I think. If you have another lens you can try and see if the same thing still happens. Otherwise you may have to take your camera to someone who knows how to repair it Best, Tak</p>
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<p>Joe, The Hy6 could have answered your questions, if the project had worked out, I think. Tak</p>
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<p>Dear Klaus,<br>
Try cleaning the metal contacts of the lens as well as the body and the bayonet ring (the ring is ground contact) with alcohol swabs. Sounds like the contacts are dirty or greasy.<br>
Tak</p>
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<p>sure. i was just brainstorming. then you add a rollei body and a hasselblad lens to your wlwsa (wish list while still alive). :)</p>
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Very old instrument.<div>
</div>
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<p>There is a way to do it. Attach the Xenotar for Rolleiflex 6xxx to the lens controlling front element of the X-act camera. Get an SWC, remove the lens. Stick the body to the front element of the X-act camera with whatever light proof mechanical bondage you can design. Tak</p>
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<p>I think to attach the Xenotar for Exakta to a Hasselblad, you need a shutter, or a body with a film plane shutter. I have an Exakta 66 body, but I have never examined any Hasselblads so I have no further idea for you on that. Tak</p>
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<p>I also have a Xenotar that I especially treasure over my other Xenotar. It is special not because of the performance. I treasure it with a sentimental value. It is not replaceable by even another Xenotar, and cannot be compared to a Planar. I have no technological prejudice against a Planar for that matter. Tak</p>
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<p>'It depends on the lens, but the cost is astronomical. It is not unusual to find a 500mm lens, for example, modified to work on one or the other. '</p>
<p>I think this is close to impossible. The Rollei lenses is electrically driven with direct linear motors to control the iris and the shutter. The mounting diameter is different. But since both are 6x6, the distance from the glasses to the film plane would be nearly identical. That means one must remove a major part of the lens casing and the motors, and put in mechanical shutters and iris, and install a Hasselblad mounting ring, in very limited space. If you want to modify the lens to work on one or the other bodies, you have to retain the electric motors while installing the mechanical clockwork! I have not heard of anyone actually attempting it.</p>
<p>The 500 mm tele tessar lens is itself already quite unusual. Not too many had been built and sold. I had not especially looked for it, but for the last few years when I was still looking for accessories on websites of Robert White and B&H, I had not seen this lens being listed.</p>
<p>If you own some Rollei lenses, buying a used 6008 body would be the easiest way.</p>
<p>On the other hand if you have a telephoto lens with a mechanical iris, it is possible to saw away the proximal part of the casing tube and attach a 39mm screw mount, and use this lens on the 59926 shutter adapter with a rolleiflex 6xxx. I have a 200mm imagon lens modified and used in this way.</p>
<p>Tak</p>
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<p>Dear Richard, according to my friend who is a retired engineer of the company which had once been an agent of Rollei (they have stopped selling Rolleis and Multiblitz now), the firmware inside the camera is factory set but is changeable at factory. For example, when the camera was first launched in 2002, the film counter became confused when you change magazine in mid-roles. This has been upgraded about a couple of years later. Older cameras could be returned for firmware upgrades. The masterware can only control what the firmware allows, such as time to go sleeping, shutter speed and so on, within the limitations set by this firmware. (as an illustration, the lenses theoretically can respond to shutter speed command of any arbitrary value slower than 1/1000 or 1/500. But you cannot set shutter speed to one minute with the masterware through the camera body.) So the interval time between repeating shots cannot be changed because this is fixed in the firmware. This is what I understand with that statement. By the way, could you give me the contact of this new company? I do have a couple of questions that I would like to clarify with my 6008 and my Hy6. I can share the questions and answers with you and anyone else here in this forum, of course. Thanks.<br>
Tak</p>
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<p>I tried to read it again and compare that to older versions but i do not fully understand. i shall try again at a later time. Tak</p>
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<p>Hi, Richard, I admit that I do not understand what it says, too! This is one single function that I have never used. I normally would do a metered flash exposure, with a pre-determined aperture. In addition to that, I vary the ambient light with shutter speed. This is more intuitive to me. The pre-flash function works only with manual strobe (either hot-shoe or studio ). My apology. Tak</p>
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<p>please refer to this thread for a discussion of the silent mode.<br>
As for the flash problems it would take some more time to explain. I will come back to this forum later today.<br>
Tak</p>
90mm apo-symmar for close-up work
in Medium Format
Posted