timberwulf

<p>Definitely start shooting RAW as soon as you can. Start by experimenting with it on a non-important shoot so you can figure out the workflow in a relaxed situation - not under the crunch of a deadline. It will open up whole new worlds for you once you learn how it works.</p>

<p>Just be cautious deleting photos in the camera while shooting. I've heard of card corruption (even with high-end dSLRs) doing this. I prefer not to futz with the cards at all until I have them backed up in duplicate.<br>

My first act after an event is to sit down and rate all of the images using the star system in Bridge. Anything that wasn't at least 3 stars immediately drops into a Cull folder and don't get looked at again. I then choose the final shots I'll deliver from the 3-star plus rated remainder. Any requests to see "all" images come from that remainder - I consider anything in the Cull folder to be gone for good.<br>

As stated, there is no "normal". I usually end up with 100-300 (depending on wedding length and events covered) images I'd consider delivering to the Bride/Groom. Again, depending on the event, I might shoot 1000 images- but that would be over a couple of days (think Rehearsal Dinner, etc.).</p>

<p>Entirely agree with all the Nikkor 50/1.8D folks. No better lens for the money IMO. :)</p>

Be ready for a warm, moist environment. If your gear has gotten nice and cool inside and you walk out into warm, moist air, are you ready for camera and lenses to be completely fogged up for 15 minutes or longer? Do you have a plan for preventing this?

The statement that you can not work on JPGs is total hogwash. He can take your full-quality JPGs, save them as PSDs, and manipulate them to his heart's content without losing anything that wasn't already lost originally. They can do everything they want with the JPGs, they do not need the RAWs. It was not in the contract, and they can not refuse to pay you over this. Tell them they need to fulfill their part of the contract before you have any further discussions about delivering additional product. DNGs similarly aren't on the table simply because of the extra time it would take to do the exports and get them packaged for transport.

 

To those saying "just give it to them", would you work an extra 12 hours at a wedding simply because the client wanted you to? Would "give me 12 extra 8x10's or I won't pay you" be an acceptable thing to you?

 

This boils down to one thing. The other party is attempting to breach the contract and not pay you as per your agreement. Stop any and all deliveries of any additional contracted product you may still have until they have fulfilled their end of the bargain. This kind of behavior on the side of the client is simply not acceptable or legal, and pandering to it by giving in and agreeing to their terms is not going to be good for you in the end - you may never be paid. If they're willing to hold your payment hostage for more services and you give in, what's to stop them from demanding something else?

 

This is a no brainer folks.

OP: I saw your message about not reformatting the card. That's great news. So long as the file system corruption from deleting the older images manually (by the way folks - NEVER EVER use that little trash can button on your camera for any reason - I've repeatedly heard of it causing issues like this) didn't result in new images going in over other new images that you wanted to keep, I'd place some good odds on you getting a good recovery.

 

As to used vs. unused cards - the card wallet that goes on my belt has little red flaps that you can put over top of used cards. When I put a used card into a slot, my finger automatically yanks the little flap out and it provides a visual and tactile indicator that the card/battery isn't to be used again. As with others, I don't format cards at the event, and no card gets reformatted after the event until the images on it are dumped to 2 hard drives and a DVD, and all three copies are verified for completeness. If, during event preparation, I see files on a card, I verify that those files are all on my two backup drives before getting my fingers anywhere near a format button.

 

Best of luck.

The advice I've heard generally is DO NOT use the camera to delete photos from the card. I have heard of the card's file system getting corrupted more than once when people are doing this. I leave all bad shots on the card and remove them later during the culling process on the computer, once I have backups of all of the files made.

 

740 images may be a lot, it may not be. It depends on how much you are shooting. More batteries/cards is never a bad thing. It's hard to have too much, easy to have too few.

Jeffrey, while it's nice to be in here sniping on the client's behalf, I don't lift a finger without a contract, even for friends. Doesn't matter if it's a $0 or $4000 wedding. Every friend I have done a favor for receives that contract with my statement that "this helps both of us to understand what is required of each party, and protects both of us in case there is a problem". That contract also includes a release that allows me to use their photos for promotional/portfolio purposes, as well as a limitation of liability due to malfunction or circumstances beyond my control (like, for example, a bride that refuses to let me know where the bloody event is taking place).

 

In this case, the OP has done an excellent job by demanding a signed contract. Usually, when a client "doesn't like something" in a contract, it's a misunderstanding of what that section means. If it isn't a misunderstanding, both parties can sit down and figure out if there is an amendment that will serve the interests of both parties. If not, you go your happy way.

 

Insinuating that a contract isn't necessary for a $50 wedding is silly, considering that damages could well exceed thousands of dollars in the event there is a mishap, misunderstanding, or other issue that could have been covered by the contract. Additionally, folks are very litigious, and not having an instrument that can be presented in a legal setting can cost you a lot more than the $50 you lost to a problem client.

 

Some friends are only friends until the rent comes due.

<center><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3984138-lg.jpg">

<br><b>Security</b></center>

If you can push your budget slightly, get the best body you can afford. You're obviously interested in photography as a hobby, since you've had a Minolta, so I assume at some point you're going to want something a little nicer. If you can buy the right camera now (without pushing yourself into debt of course), you'll be happier for a longer period of time. :)

I've managed to survive shooting digital SLRs now for 4 years without "automatic" sensor cleaning. It is not a feature that makes a camera in my opinion. Making it out like the second coming isn't doing anyone any justice.

Personally, I feel that they have received more than enough for free. No money, no additional photos. I don't reward people that act that way by giving them what they want. I may attempt to come to an agreement that benefits both parties (say, discount what they owe you by a certain amount to let them feel they are getting something if you feel you don't have a case or don't want to mess with it) but rolling over and giving in to threats and demands isn't really professional either. Business owners don't just walk around giving out things for free to everyone who complains and stay in business.

 

As mentioned, cash or money order only, and I'd have them sign something at the time of payment indicating that the agreement has been fulfilled and no further services are promised or expected on either party's behalf, and that agreement supersedes any prior verbal or written agreements.

<center><img src="http://www.llamadev.com/images/4165372-lg.jpg"><br><b>Age vs. Youth - Fort Casey, Whidbey

Island, WA</b></center>

The main thing you'll notice is the loss of the various preset modes, like night portrait, macro, portrait, etc. that the lower end cameras all have. This means you either need to know what those pre-sets actually do shutterspeed/aperture wise, or you'll pretty much lose the ability to take photos in that way.

I'll admit that while shooting with flash, I do use a strap, but only to "rest" my arms when not shooting. My hands are still around the camera, ready to bring it up at a moment's notice, but the strap serves to allow some of the weight to rest on my neck instead of my arms, which needs to remain rested for a steady shot.

 

That said, for shorter events, no strap. It all really depends on the length of the event. ;)

Lou - the human body suppresses the blink instinct for a short time just after opening the eyes. I have used that technique a number of times on subjects that were what I call "fast blinkers", who are able to blink even when the flash is not pre-strobing. :)

Jo - even if you're providing "digital negatives", without explicit permission from you as the Copyright holder; how can it be ok for the bride/groom to make money off of your work?

Wow, lots of confusion here.

 

With the D200, I removed the AF portion of the AE/AF lock button through the menus.

 

Here is where it is very valuable:

When you're shooting Shutter or Aperture Priority (or another semi-auto mode), if you have some subjects sitting at a picnic table in the shade (or there's a sunset behind them, etc. etc.), the backlighting will cause you massive problems with your meter. You point the camera at a nice, shady area that matches the one your subject is in, hold the AE/AF, recompose, squeeze to focus and shoot. You get nicely exposed subjects.

 

I use this extensively in event and wedding photography. :)

Scam.

 

Go ahead and try it, I guarantee it won't come with a battery, strap, charger, charger cord, etc. Now, naturally, they'll be happy to sell you those items - the battery will be $500, the strap $250, etc. And if you don't want to buy those things from them, the camera will suddenly be out of stock and backordered.

Simon, the D700 was just announced, which may serve your purposes even better depending on your budget.

 

Take a look at the Nikon forum here for more details.

Or it was underexposed to start with and was boosted automatically by the raw editor.

 

If you're using Photoshop, what settings were set automatically in Camera RAW - specifically the Exposure slider?

Don't forget if the background needs the red to remain at normal levels that you can do a hut/sat adjustment

layer in photoshop and mask out everything but the affected skin areas (pretty rapidly if you do it often

enough). :)

 

I've found this to be a problem if the folks in the photo are exerting themselves (like when they are dancing).

You can get some pretty crazy reds in their faces if you're not careful.

Not really Dave. Why not just get it cleaned once in a while? Dust is always bound to get in, whether or not you take the lens off.

 

I have a now 3-year old D200. It's up over 15-20k shutter actuations at this point, and frequently has lens changes. I have very little problem with dust. 2 years of usage of this camera was in AZ where there is plenty enough dust and dirt flying around. Once in a while I get a spec, and I just gently remove it from the sensor, no worries.

hehe, been shooting RAW so long I've just stopped worrying about the WB while I"m shooting alltogether (except, of course, for taking steps to minimize mixing multiple differently temped light sources were possible).

I'd definitely add the copyright to the image myself. Other than that, agreed totally with Joseph.

 

I might put something to the effect of "Use of these images is limited to low resolution web site display only" or some such into the note.