aizan_sasayama

Frank, how did you get the front lens unit off? I have a Voigtländer Rollfilm with a 11.4cm f/4.5 Anastigmat Skopar, and I couldn't get it off with my fingers. Looks like I'll need a flexiclamp.

I would assume the lens was originally manufactured with the proper lens mount and the problem now is with the AF mechanism. As stated above, repair is not going to be cost effective, so you can try to repair it yourself using youtube instructions, use manual focus, or get another lens from KEH that works.

 

Thanks for the diagnosis. It's good to know I don't have to buy any spare parts.

Can you manually focus it to infinity? And you are sure your diopter has not been bumped out of focus? This isn't an expensive lens, I see KEH is selling used versions of this lens (graded in excellent condition) for $59-$62 and free shipping, so it is not worth sending out for repair in my opinion.

 

I found this, not in English though.

 

No, I can't focus manually to infinity. I was checking the focus on a digital body by checking live view, and the farthest it focuses is 3ft. I'm going to try fixing it myself because it's so cheap, so thanks for that link!

I picked up this lens for a song and now I know why: it won't focus to infinity. At most I can focus on objects about 3 feet away, but the distance scale is completely off and says that it's focused at about 8-9 feet. Objects at infinity are totally blurry.

 

Does anyone know how to adjust focus on this lens? It's one of the earliest EF lenses and makes for a great "adjustable prime"/"adjustable normal" lens for bright light, as Mike Johnston calls lenses with narrow zoom ranges.

 

I was reading this blog post by Roger Cicala today that says that Canon EF lenses are adjusted for infinity focus solely by the thickness of the mount, unlike Nikon lenses which use shims. He writes, "Canon bayonet mounts come in various thicknesses, so rather than shimming they simply choose the correct thickness mount when they assemble the lens." Does that mean I have to buy a replacement mount that is thinner than the one I have? I checked the auction site and they don't sell mounts by different thicknesses, so I'm not sure what's going on.

<p>Just checking back in. I ended up getting that Sunwayfoto plate. It fits flush with the front edge of the Hasselblad plate (when you put the strap loop thing toward the front, which is a lucky coincidence), and there's a little bit of margin on the other three sides. Thanks for the recommendation, Will!</p>

<p>Has anyone already found which Arca Swiss plate fits onto the Hasselblad Tripod Quick Coupling plate? The bottom looks like this if you haven't seen it:</p>

<p><img src="https://www.wide-angle.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/1316339.jpg" alt="" width="600" /></p>

Is it "stuck" if I can turn the ring around and around with a friction tool? It looks like it's spinning in place, neither loosening nor tightening.

I have to clean the aperture blades, too, but my 100/2.8 FDn doesn't have a little hole in the front. How do I get the front nameplate off?

I've been turning it forever with a friction tool, and although it turns it won't come off. I've tried both clockwise and counter-clockwise.

Stuck at step 1!

<p>flatbeds are ok for proofing and editing color negs, and you can make small prints on a desktop inkjet. when you need to go big, get them scanned and printed at a pro lab. you can do the same with chromes. for b&w, just buy an enlarger and set up a darkroom. if you can't set up a darkroom, you can develop the film at home, proof it on a flatbed, and let a master printmaker do your enlargements. consider shooting large format instead of or in addition to medium format. same story as the above.</p>

<p>i would not bother getting an imacon or drum scanner, going into medium format digital, or buying a large format inkjet printer because they are very expensive.</p>

<p>i'm looking forward to price reductions of the pentax 645d, and waiting for the next generation or two of full frame dslrs. 35-40mp make excellent 20x24 or 20x30 prints.</p>

<p>the leica s2 and pentax 645d are both weather sealed. hopefully, you can get the lenses you need.</p>

<p>fuji gw670iii: affordable, reliable, light, and sharp. a little longer than the mamiya 7, but it'll still fit in the same camera bag.</p>

<p>chris, how'd it go? not in tears, i hope.</p>

<p>these are my top picks. i would at least get one rangefinder and one slr.</p>

<p>rangefinder:</p>

<ul>

<li>fuji gw690iii or gsw690iii</li>

<li>fuji gf670</li>

<li>mamiya 7ii</li>

<li>bronica rf645</li>

<li>fuji ga645i</li>

</ul>

<p>slr:</p>

<ul>

<li>pentax 67</li>

<li>mamiya rz67 pro ii</li>

<li>hasselblad 501cm</li>

<li>rollei 6001 or 6008</li>

<li>hasselblad h1 or h2 of fuji gx645af</li>

<li>contax 645</li>

<li>pentax 645nii</li>

</ul>

<p>tlr:</p>

<ul>

<li>rolleiflex 2.8f or 3.5f or rolleiwide or tele-rollei</li>

</ul>

<p>viewfinder:</p>

<ul>

<li>hasselblad swc</li>

<li>alpa 12</li>

</ul>

<p>panoramic:</p>

<ul>

<li>fuji gx617</li>

<li>linhof technorama</li>

<li>ebony 6x17</li>

</ul>

<p>technical:</p>

<ul>

<li>linhof super technika 6x9</li>

<li>linhof technika 70</li>

<li>horseman vh</li>

<li>plaubel 69w proshift</li>

</ul>

<p>view:</p>

<ul>

<li>arca swiss 6x9</li>

<li>toyo 23gx</li>

<li>linhof technikardan 23s</li>

<li>linhof m679</li>

<li>ebony 6x9</li>

</ul>

<p>of course, that's almost everything out there...</p>

<p>the voigtlander bessa iii has been available in the US since last may, while the fuji gf670 was only available in japan.</p>

<p>this announcement is just for a new version in silver.</p>

<p>at one time or another, these photographers have shot 6x9:</p>

<p>bw<br>

mark steinmetz - fuji<br>

tod papageorge - fuji<br>

nobuyoshi araki - fuji</p>

<p>color<br>

william eggleston - fuji & mamiya press<br>

mitch epstein - fuji & palm press<br>

jeffrey ladd - fuji<br>

christian patterson - fuji<br>

philip-lorca dicorcia - anybody know?</p>

<p>since you don't have a darkroom and scanner at this time, i'd agree that it's best to not go into film just yet.</p>

<p>rolleiflex hy6 with the 6x6 film back they never made. =(</p>

<p>for that budget, the choice is pretty obvious to me: pentax 67.</p>

<p>6x4.5 is a great format for school work. you get a few more shots per roll to complete assignments, and it enlarges to standard 8x10s without much cropping.</p>

<p>the pentax 645n is a great choice. the only lenses you'll probably ever need are the 75/2.8 and 150/2.8. interchangeable backs and flash sync speed aren't all that important, in my experience.</p>

<p>some other ideas.</p>

<p>mpp mkviii go for around $350. it's not new or light, but a great deal.</p>

<p>if you're ok with the weight of a normal 4x5 monorail, i'd consider buying an 8x10 monorail instead. you can get a toyo 810g for around $450-600, or a cambo legend 8x10 for $350-450.</p>

<p>nobody's suggested the rollei 6008 pro/integral/af + 50mm f2.8 pqs/af (sorry about all the different versions). it's heavy but wonderfully ergonomic. bad news: the lens goes for around $2000 used. i'd only consider it if you were serious about using a mfdb. i'm not sure what's going on with the hy6 system now that f+h went bankrupt.</p>

<p>i'd personally choose the mamiya 6 and the 50mm f4. if you have a soft spot for classic cameras, the rolleiwide or hasselblad swc are really neat.</p>

<p>i think you're looking for a bronica rf645, fuji ga645, or rollei 6000-series camera with the revolving 6x4.5 back.</p>

<p>rene, the mamiya 645af's viewfinder is nearly as large as the hasselblad h, just as bright, and with a warm cast instead of greenish. i wear glasses and everything is in easy view, no peeking around corners.</p>

<p>isn't this all kind of a moot point? making a 30x40'' print with either the fuji or mamiya needs a 13.5-14.5x enlargement, respectively. post-processing those scans and standing back at viewing distance will make "good looking" prints, as long as there isn't a large format print right next to them. ;)</p>

<p>i'm hoping the new fuji's lens is as good as mamiya's, too. at that price, it better be!</p>

<p>$1500 is not enough to get a leica m6 + 35/2 summicron pre-asph, for instance, but it will get you a hasselblad 501cm + 80/2.8 cb in mint condition.</p>