safarishots
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Posts posted by safarishots
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Hi-
I want to visit the Boundary Waters Canoe Area in July. I've never
been there and would like any advice concerning locations,
outfitters, photographic subjects, etc. I'm using a Nikon D1H and I
only have 3 batteries. Any idea on charging? I'm not sure on the
length of the trip, but probably a week.
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If you want something a bit more "off the beaten path" check out the "southern circuit" in Tanzania. The Selous area including the Rufiji River is dynamite for birds. Several of the other parks in the south are also good, notably Ruaha NP. Try www.tanzaniasafaris.info.
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This will depend a lot on whether the chipmunks are used to having humans around. Using a 300mm lens on my Nikon D1H (effectively 450mm) was more than enough for photographing the little guys at Arches National Park last summer. But clearly the chipmunks were attracted to humans, looking for food. I used this somewhat. I never fed them, but just crinkling a candy wrapper brought them to me. When they didn't get any food, they went back to their usual activities, only they were closer to me than before.<div>
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The last post about a laminate is exactly what I did a few years back. I bought open cell foam that was 4 inches thick and 1/2 inch closed cell foam. I cut the open cell foam to be a little smaller than the final size, then hot-glued the closed cell foam over the entire surface. Then I cut the shapes out that I needed, leaving the layer of closed-cell foam on the bottom totally intact. I stitched another layer of closed cell to the flap on the backpack to protect the open surfaces. This system works well, supplying the soft padding and rigidity that you are looking for.
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Can you use a different sort of hide that people wouldn't try to remove? It might take a couple of hours to put up something semi-permanent, but that's nothing compared to your waiting time with the camera. I think you need to get the bird accustomed to the hide if you are going to have a chance at a close shot.
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The ISO was 1600. This is higher than I like and there is more noise in the original shot than I like, but it allowed me to get my shutter up to 1/250th of a second without the background going too dark. Having an ISO control on a digital SLR gives a third area of adjustment from shot to shot. Sometimes I set the shutter speed and aperture to exactly what I want, then adjust ISO to get the proper exposure. The trade-off is noise, but the D1H does pretty good at making noise look like film grain.
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If you are really a beginner, you might hold off on getting a big 300 2.8. I would recommend something lighter that you won't complain about carrying around. I have the 300 f4 AFS and while sometimes I do wish for the 2.8, I can hardly imagine carrying it. Even the f4 lens gets heavy after a day of hiking. The other lens I would recommend to beginners (this will probably be controversial) is the 80-400 VR. I love it. On my D1H it has an effective focal range of 120-600. In the local rainforests I carry my camera with just this lens, and SB-80DX flash, and a Flash Xtender. This is a good combination for birds. I also really liked the versatility of the 80-400 when on safari in Africa. It is excellent for those shots where you don't have time to set up a tripod and pull out a really big lens. This lens has a high "fun factor" which I think is important to beginners.
-Jon Hill<div>
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I've been using a Nikon D1H for about 8 months now. I was also concerned about dust before I got it. Since then, the problem has cropped up a few times, but it has not been too difficult to remedy. I can see the dust when on the cameras viewfinder if I take a high f-stop photo of a whilte wall or blue sky. So I don't have to have a computer nearby to tell if there is dust on the CCD. If there is dust then I do the following:
1) With a q-tip and methanol, swab out the area just inside the camera's mounting ring to clean out any little metal shavings from changing lenses.
2) Put a piece of clear packing tape over the mounting ring with just a small opening on one edge.
3) Lock up the mirror.
4) Insert the end of a blower bulb through the opening and blow the CDD. The idea is that the tape will attract and catch any dust.
5) Remove tape. Lower the mirror. Take a test photo. Repeat steps 2-4 if necessary.
6) If steps 2-5 are not working (only happened to me once in 8 months), then I go to a swab system. People use Sensor Swabs with Eclipse fluid. I use a cut down rubber spatula wrapped in Pec-Pad and a couple drops of methanol.
I try to wait until I have a good place to do any cleaning, though I have used the tape method in the field once or twice and it worked fine. A spot or two of dust in your shots doesn't ruin them, you just have to fix them in Photoshop later.
I'm also thinking about getting more serious about writing and getting photos published. So far, my niche has been building websites and using the photographs that way. From that background, digital was the only way to go. I'm finding that I need more megapixels if I want to get serious about digital stock. The new Kodak 14N is looking pretty good.
-Jon Hill
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Does anyone have plans for modifying Nikon cable releases for use with a Trailmaster? I'm also not sure which release to buy. I'm using a Nikon D1H.
-Jon
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One more thing. Ethiopia is mountainous. The light at high altitude is very blue. When you shoot slide film, you might use an 81A filter to warm things up. Print films can be adjusted in printing.
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I'll just add confirmation of Hans' idea about fill-flash. The high angle of the sun combined with dark complexions is tough to deal with unless you put in more light from a lower angle.
Also, realize that if you will be taking potos inside huts, then they are very dark inside. If you don't want the unnatural look of flash, then you will need a very fast film. The earlier suggestion to get a fast 50mm lens was also an excellent one.
A very common film for weddings these days is Fuji NPZ 800. It handles high contrast well and gives a lot of flexibility for non-tripod shots. It could be just what your are looking for, unless you need very low grain. I didn't know about it when I was in Africa, but I had pretty good success with Kodak Max 800.
-Jon<div>
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Use a powerful and focused flash to get yourself greater DOF.
-Jon
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I just moved from Tanzania after living there 3 years. If you want the usual tourist fare then the places you've mentioned are OK. If you want to see more of the country, especially less-visited parks like Ruaha NP then get in touch with Foxtreks. Ruaha is great because almost no one goes there and you don't typically get in line to see a lion like in the Serengeti. Here is one of their sites: http://www.ruahariverlodge.com/ And their email: brucefox@tanzaniasafaris.info
They have lodges/camps at the coast, in 2 parks, and in the mountains. I've stayed with them several times and even did some photography for their brochures. Check out my own web site to see more of Ruaha NP: www.jonkhill.com
-Jon Hill
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I wouldn't stay in Portland. You'll have to drive too far each day. Better to stay in The Dalles or Hood River. Camping is a good option. While there are good photo opportunities in the area, I would personally not go there for more than a week at a stretch. If you want to fill more time, drop down into central Oregon and check out John Day National Monument, the Metolius River, and some of the other nice spots east of the Cascades.
-Jon
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Thanks for your replies. About the heat. I'm hoping to be travelling between locations during the hottest part of the day, taking pictures morning and evenings. Hopefully that will work out.
I'm realizing that there are huge numbers of things to see in that area of the country. Is there anything especially good at this time of year (July)? Wildflowers? Wildlife? I'm more into shooting nature than archaeology. If anyone has a favorite camping spot in the region, it would be great to hear about it.
-Jon
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I will be driving from Canon City, CO to Phoenix, AZ from July 7-12.
It would be great to have some advice on good photo opportunities,
short hikes, and camping spots. Thanks in advance.
-Jon
www.jonkhill.com
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Trailmaster units have a reputation of working well. Here's a link you might find interesting.
http://michaelnicknichols.com/article/camera_traps/
-Jon
www.jonkhill.com
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The place mentioned by Greg with the petting zoo is actually north of Port Orford on the coast, approximated 45 minutes driving on Hwy 101 north of Gold Beach. I haven't been there since the early 80s and can't remember the name, but they did seem to have a nice assortment of cats way back then.
If you are going to drive the Oregon Coast you can also try to hit Sealion Caves and the Newport Aquarium for some good shots of marine mammals.
-Jon Hill
www.jonkhill.com
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Yes, the digital cameras can produce some great macro shots. I have been very pleased at the results with my Niikon Coolpix 950. (The Coolpix cameras are generally regarded as the best digitals for macro photography.) I would be very surprised if there is a macro attachment for your camera since its built-in capability is already quite good. If you want to get closer though, you might check http://www.ckcpower.com/ They make adapters for many digital cameras. Most are for attaching telephoto lenses but you might be able to attach a diopter for close up work using something they have.<div></div>
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I don't know anything about the instructor you mentioned but Yellowstone in autumn is great! The summer crowds have dispersed and the aspens are gorgeous. Long sunrises and sunsets at that time of year (compared with summer), give several hours of sweet light each day. Here's a page with some photos I took there a few years back:
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I agree with what Matt said a few posts up. I also have both at the moment and use them with a N80 body (waiting for digital SLRs to get cheaper!) I first bought the 300/TC combo and then bought the 80-400. The 300/TC just sits now and I plan to sell it.
Let me add a few comments:
- The 300 is longer and especially with the TC-14E, more cumbersome than the 80-400. The combo won't fit in my large holster case but the 80-400 fits easily.
- I use the lenses on safari in dusty conditions. Taking my 300 on and off of the camera to add or remove the TC-14E always makes me nervous about getting dust inside the camera and lens.
- The TC-14E takes time to take on and off. I've missed shots because I was fiddling with the teleconvertor.
- The 300 with the TC-14E is essentially a 420 f5.6. The 80-400 gives you 400 f5.6. So in the 400mm range there is no speed advantage either way.
- The 300 does focus faster on AF, but the 80-400 is not bad if you use the focal length limiter switch.
- The VR really can help if you are doing handheld or monopod shots, especially in dim forests or at dusk/dawn.
- The VR doesn't get you anything if your subject is moving within the frame. If you shoot moving targets at 300mm most of the time, then the 300 would be faster in terms of both aperture and AF.<div>
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African Safari - what lens to buy next?
in Nature
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You have enough glass. With weight restrictions for carry ons you'll alredy be pushing limits. Get the 1.4x TC for your 300/4 and use that combo for your critical work. The zooms are really handy, but I don't know that you'll need both the Sigma 80-400 and Canon 100-400. Do take the 70-200 for it's low light capability. You can use it with the TC in a pinch too.
Take a beanbag for the 300 and the 70-200.
-Jon Hill
safarishots.com<div>
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