jean_berthe

I did loose a lens cap in a park once... Within 15-20 minutes, I went back to where I changed lenses (where I think I did misplace the cap) and it was already gone :( someone found it and took it!

Since then, when I find something that seems recent (not under old leaves or 5 mm of dirt) I leave it there for the original owner to come back.

Just me.

Hello John

My wife uses a Elan7e and I use a ElanII and a EOS3. We both shoot mostly slide for fun/club competitions and film for weddings. I have a more complex kit that I took years to build (EF24 f2.8, EF28 f2.8, EF35 f2, EF50 f1.8, EF100 f2.8 macro, EF135sf f2.8, EF70-200 f2.8L and EF400 5.6L, PB-E2, two flashes, and many filters) and my wife has three lenses (EF24-85, EF50 f1.8 and EF70-200f4L), BP-300, one flash, remote trigger and a few filters.

About camera meter, both shooting at the same location, ALL her slides have perfect exposures. She either uses Av mode (for AF with CF4-1) or the other mode for simplicity (even sometimes the green mode). I either use Av or program (shift) to control DOF and ALWAYS take more than one frame for something important (always add 2/3!) I went from a EOS 630 to a EOS3. Me too, I was under the impression that spot metering would be a blessing but I have never been able to use it successfully in quick action shots. I used to bracket a lot (-2/3, 0, +2/3) but now I only do what the meter says AND +2/3.

About AF: the AF of the EOS3 with non f2.8 zoom sucks! My ElanII AF better with my old 28-135IS than with the EOS3! (I sold the 28-135IS). Now I have quick snappy AF even with all the old non USM prime lenses I have. Whenever I borrow my wife's Elan7e, I find AF better than my ElanII, not as good as with the EOS3/70-200 2.8L. But I have a hard time dealing with only 7 AF sensors. HOWEVER, when shooting landscape, I mostly focus using the hyperfocal distance marking on the lens, MF not AF!

About weight: EOS3 + BP-E2 + small primes is OK. EOS3 + BP-E2 + 70-200 2.8 + EX550 + ElanII + BP50 + 24-85 + EX420 is a heavy load around the neck for a two hours wedding shoot!

Your Elan7 can take fantastic pictures if you use good technique, good glass, good accessories (lens hood, filters, tripod, etc), good subject and a lot of patience. I try to shoot serious nature alone, where I can stay at the same place for many hours waiting for the bird to come back or waiting for the sun to set/rise, etc... I would build a good set of prime (EF 20 or EF24 or TS-E 24) instead of going for a pro body with consumer zooms.

Good luck

Chris

From what I can see, her nose is located at the center of the frame, where most AF cameras will favor the center AF point. I mostly use a EOS3 (set in Av)for portait and always manually select the AF point over the eye(s), do not re-compose, lock the AF (CF-4) then take the picture.

F1.4 is good for square posture, but I can go as far as f3.4/f4 for almost profile shots. I rarely take only one shot, I usually take two to four shots, at different apperture and different compensation if there is a lot of white or dark in the frame.

Practice and take notes. It will come to you.

Good luck

Stefan

I use a EOS3 and over the years, I gathered many prime fast lenses (f2.8). It is a very good tool to take picture but it has its own learning curve. And accessories are expensive...(PB-E2, multiple 550EX, remote switch, grid focusing screen, etc)

My wife has a Elan7e (EOS 30) and uses mostly a 24-85 and a 70-200 f4L. She only uses a battery grip, 420EX flash and a remote switch for accessories... not very expensive. She is very good with her camera but does not like the EOS3: too many buttons and too complicated to use.

You will need lots of money to build a good kit around a EOS3, but you can make lots of money using that complex kit. And I can AF with a EF400 5.6L + 1.4TC, she cannot!

Good luck

Hello Robert

I remember having problems with "slow" lenses when I upgraded to a EOS3. If there are not enough horizontal contrast on your subject, the "vertical AF sensor" has nothing to lock on. If you were using another body (ElanII, Elan7, A2, etc) you would get a center cross AF sensor, which would lock with vertical OR horizontal contrast subject.

A faster lens (f4 or better) should provide better AF lock/tracking. It took me a few years to upgrade most of the lenses I use to mostly f2.8.

Good luck

JB

The last element, closest to the mirror box, was all sealed around on my old "push-pull" 100-300 5.6L. I would think that Canon kept that smart design on their 100-400 L. I am always more concerned from zooms like the 28-135 IS and the 24-85, where the last element is not sealed and the lens extends by a large volume.

This is one of the reasons why I kept my old 28-70 3.5-4.5 II, its rear most element is also sealed! I will use this lens on my future DSLR.

Good luck

Your Rebel TI has a center cross AF sensor, which will revert to a vertical sensor with the EOS3 combined with the zoom lenses you have.

The EOS3 is a more expensive body to purchase and also more expensive to maintain (more batteries, many more as-expensive accessories).

Learning curve to fully utilize a EOS3 will be much steeper than an Elan7.

Learn to exceed the TI's capabilities, until then get better glass and wait for the Digital EOS3.

Good luck

One of our local photo store has a device which can tell shutter speed (leaf, horizontal and vertical plane) and lens f/ stop ration. They don't charge much for this service. I was able to evaluate a used body/lens once and found out that the body's speed was off above 1/250" and lens was off(sticky) at f/16 and smaller. They saved me a few hundred bucks in bad used gear (they also confirmed that my old Minolta Himatic 7II was "bang on" with non-mercury batteries).

Good luck

Hello Bob

My �carry around� camera used to be a Minolta Hi-Matic 7II and nowadays is a Konica Hexar AF. They are light and small enough to carry around ALL THE TIME. And I mean all the time!

My �walk about light� camera is a ElanII with a 24-85 f3.5-4.5. My wife�s is a Elan7E with a 28-135 IS f3.5-4.5. Whenever we �walk about� too long, she will trade her heavier 28-135 for my lighter 24-85 because of neck pain! The 28-135 was also an expensive lens when we had to replace the servos �out-of-warranty�.

My serious �carry� kit is a EOS3 with a bunch of primes, which only the long stuff is L.

In most occasions, I am very satisfied with pictures I take. I am not a pro but I sell pictures regularly and do a few weddings per year. There will ALWAYS be better stuff out there. You may enjoy your time a lot more when you can exploit the best of the gear YOU USE. I can tell you what I do and you decide�

But stay away from cheap filters and ALWAYS use the proper hood for EACH lens you use;)

Good luck

JB

Lee

I moved the AF from the shutter to the EF Lock * button (CF4) on my EOS3 and on my wife�s Elan7E. We both find it easier and faster to follow bird in flight and motocross in movement. However, we can so that best in AV or TV mode, not in sport (on the Elan7E). We press the * button to start AF tracking, half-press the shutter to lock Exposure and then it seems to be quick to take the frame. We have never seen 1-2 seconds delay.

It is also surprising that sometime the predictive logic will �out of focus� AF the shot but the slide end-up sharp. I suppose that this is what predictive is all about.

Good luck

JB

Hello Asim

I have both EOS3 and ElanII. First thing I did when I purchased them is to get a BP-E1 and a BP-50 in order to run rechargeable batteries. I have small hands but I still prefer all camera I use with its Battery Pack (better grip and better balance). I found that the ElanII will AF better with prosumer lenses (zoom f3.5-4.5) than the EOS3. It took me a few years to purchase used fast primes and a 70-200 f2.8L. Now the EOS3 AF much better. The EOS3 requires f2.8 to get a vertical column of �high performance AF sensors� and f4.0 to get a center + AF sensor, which the ElanII provides with f5.6 or better. You may be disappointed with the AF performance of the EOS3 with ordinary lenses.

Also, to really get weatherproof photography gear, you will need to purchase the most expensive lenses from Canon. Your kit will still be water sensitive if you use ordinary lenses with the �weather proof� EOS3.

I found that my wife�s Elan7E has more reliable EF and very fast AF with f5.6 lenses. Its BP-30 provides good features in addition to rechargeable batteries. Maybe this would be a better/more affordable upgrade from your ElanII?

Good luck

JB

My wife has a 28-135 IS since 1999. We only used it under this fashion: focus, recompose, shoot. Sometimes, the IS would not like this and after two years of �gentle� usage, it started to shake violently and to make loud grinding noise (only with the ElanII). I send it to Canon, with my ElanII, not knowing if it were the camera or the lens. They fixed the lens by replacing the servos for $250(Can). Been OK since then.

It�s a good lens but I would not buy the one your played with.

Good luck

Paula

Some lenses maintain focus when the focal distance is change with the zoom. Most consumer grade zoom lenses do not facilitate this and you MUST focus every time you change the focal distance, even by tiny bit. Try this and let us know the end result.

Hope it helps. Good luck

JB

I was explained: right angle shift/tilt for �landscape format� and parallel for �portrait format�. It means that that if you shoot landscape vertically, (like a waterfall), you would benefit from parallel shift/tilt. Or if you shoot more architecture horizontally, you should keep it at right angle. You should optimize it to match what you shoot more often.

Also, I never use a UV filter with a CirPol. And you must be careful when using a Cirpol with a 24mm lens, keep the sun at the right place. BTW, I hope that the TSE 24 3.5L will be my next lens.

Hope it helps. Good luck

JB

Randy

Very sorry to hear more about your story. But like I said in your previous post, used 1N bodies are in a category by themselves: EOS1 were the first �built tough� camera by Canon. Typical users were still taking good care of them. When Canon �improved� the 1N, they were victims of serious abuse. The 1V cost too much to blindly trash them. That�s how a camera storeowner explained to me why I should forget about buying a used 1N.

Other than that, one can hardly get a used 1N from KEH for less than $550. They run just below $400 even in �bargain� shape. Sorry to say but looks like you took a gamble in betting on a used EOS1N on Eb** and you do not have a winning hand. You should return it (if you can) and you should buy a 1N, ONLY, if you personally know the previous owner. Maybe you should consider a used A2 or a new Elan7 instead.

You said <<<I really like this camera and want it to work properly>>>, I say don't get emotional about some money pit!

Good luck

PS. First owners of 1N, who took care of their camera, do not need to reply. I know that you will be keeping yours. I am talking about the other kind of owners�

JB

I have a warming filter (812 or 81A) for all my lenses size. I always use the hood for protection and avoid filters every time I can. I will use the UV when I am at the beach or on a ship (not for day to day protection).

A good match for the 70-200 f4L is the 24-85 lens (I have both). They share filters and you get 24-200 in a light kit.

I suggest you get the BP30 (battery pack) and switch to rechargeable batteries. Stay with the 420EX.

Good luck

Dave

Now that you mention it, I got mine from Henry's, new, as a kit with the 28-80 zoom lens. I was able to trade the lens, here at a local store, for a BP50 (one for one).

Henry's is a good place, but you can also check here: http://www.vintagevisuals.com/canon.htm where they go from $325(Can) to $395(Can) and a BP50 for $65(Can).

You can also check here : http://www.mcbaincamera.com where they have the Elan7 on sale at $449(Can) and 7E at $499(Can). 1 used Elan7 at $339(Can).

I bought new and used gear from all the above and always had a very good experince.

Good luck

Actually, it is possible to mount at least the Canon 1.4X TC mk1. As long as you keep the zoom between 135mm and around 50-70mm. Less than that, you WILL break the front glass on the TC and/or the rear glass of the lens.

I read about someone who traveled only with 28-135 IS and the 1.4X TC. He was reporting very good results with this as well, but he knew the �written in stone� limitation of this combo.

Still, even if they physically connect, I don�t use this setup. But I tried it once.

Good luck

Most EOS-1N that I see on our local used market are from professional/journalist photographers. Which means very used and abused. I wish that there were a way to find out how many times the shutter was activated on those very high-end bodies.

Instead of getting a used 1N, I purchased a new EOS3 for almost the same price. If the price seems too good, this may be a sign that something is not right.

Good luck

My second body is an ElanII and my wife uses a Elan7E. The metering of the 7E is ALWAYS bang on! I have to be careful and bracket, but she NEVER brackets. I have no problems using the ECF with the 7E, but it is very iffy with the EOS3. I hate the white strobe AF assist with the 7E, the near IR of the II is much better. It is much easier to get DOF preview with the 7E. Either one you get, make sure to get the Battery Pack, AE lock or CF4 AF is only available with the 7E.

I am very happy with both cameras. The ElanII may be a bit more work but if I could, I would trade it for a second Elan7E. I tried to trade my ElanII for a digital but the store was giving half of nothing for it. I should keep it for some time because, recently, I am spending my money on printing accessories.

Good luck

I would suggest to stay consistent! Even if most use AdobeRGB, your camera should use the same color space as the software you use. Avoid color translation from one space to an other. Ask your �commercial photography shop� which format/color space they want the file, before you manipulate it.

Good luck

Also, keep in mind that some slide/film will suffer some �reciprocity failure� of some degree during night shoot. You will need to experiment with specific film (meaning take notes). For example, I use a lot of Kodak EPX (ExtraColor 100) and I have to dial +1 stop after an exposure of 1 sec and longer.

You can also use a gradual neutral density filter to darken the city and brighten the sky, if you shoot within one hour after sunset(grey side down). Middle of the night shots are a bigger challenge, where sometimes it is better to keep the same level of EV in the frame: mostly neon light, mostly building, mostly dark blue sky, etc. Black&White may show better latitude as well.

Good luck

I have the older Epson Photo 870 and would love to get something bigger. Recent 1280 ships with Elements 2.0 with an upgrade option for CS� very interesting. I too am trying to sell stuff (pictures?) to pay for a Epson 2200. I had to replace a few faded prints made with the 870. I would love to get a big size archival home printer.

As for the lens, this is a very narrow niche, specialty lens. If your style does not fall into that niche, it will not collect any prizes, only dust. Just like a 600 f4L for someone who does not like wildlife photography. Tough call to which you are the only one to answer (or not). If you don�t use it, sell it. If you are in a phase and don�t use it, you will miss it the day you get out of that phase� I used to love macro, spend a year without one macro shot, and I am back into it.

But I could trade a good VCR for a fisheye ;)

Good luck

I tried all kinds of caps, covers, etc. Nothing stays long enough or at all. Whenever I use long exposure, I use MLU (func12) and the 2 sec timer. I always EF/AF lock, move back, shelter the eye piece with my left hand or my hat, then press the trigger. Always had good results. The only exception is with the Canon Right Angle B, I found a cap that fits nicely over the eye piece.

I would not cut the neckstrap just for that.

Good luck

Don

Maybe you have Jordan's old lens???

Mine does not make noises but will flare bad with the sun in the frame.

Good luck