raivo_vanags

<p>So here's my updated <b>Plan A</b> (with questions at the end): </p>

<i><p>13.Feb- flying-in Phoenix/got to Sedona (194km.Est: 2H 10m), too late for evening photography, stay in Kokopelli Inn</p>

<p>14.Feb- photo: sunrise@Sedona/ going to Grand Canyon (243km.Est: 5H 21m), photo: sunset@GC/ stay in Yavapai Lodge </p>

<p>15.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ if the weather allows South Kaibab down, Bright Angel up, photo: sunset@GC/ </p>

<p>16.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ possibly go on a tour with <a href="www.grandcanyonairlines.com">Grand Canyon airlines</a> , photo: sunset@GC/ </p>

<p>17.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ via Desert view (Hhwy64) to Monument Valley (173miles or 277km; 4h of drive?)/ afternoon driving on MV routes?/ stay in Gouldings lodge (hopefully)/ photo: sunset@Monument Valley/</p>

<p>18.Feb- photo: sunrise@Monument Valley (navajo guide?)/ go to Antelope Canyon, go to Horseshoe Bend/ photo: sunset@??? stay in Page? Monument Valley to Page: total of 132miles or 211km. </p>

<p>19.Feb- photo: sunrise@???/ got to Bryce/ photo: sunset@Bryce/ Page to Bruce Canyon: Total of 143miles or 230km. </p>

<p>20.Feb- photo: sunrise@Bryce/ photo: sunset@Zion </p>

<p>21.Feb- photo: sunrise@Zion/ photo: sunset@Zion </p>

<p>22.Feb- photo: sunrise@Zion/ Zion to Death Valley (total of 300m or 480km)/ stay in Furnace Creek Ranch or Stovepipe Wells Village / photo: sunset@Death Valley</p>

<p>23.Feb- photo: sunrise@Death Valley/ arrive Lvegas (total of 140miles or 225km), photo: sunset@LV (maybe) & nightly Vegas </p>

<p>24.Feb-from LV to LA (Total of 275miles or 440km, approximate driving ~4h20min) </p>

<p>25.Feb- LA </p>

<p>26.Feb- LA </p>

<p>27.Feb-go from LA to Phoenix: (600km.Est: 5H 56m) </p></i>

<p><u>Questions:</u> </p>

<p>Q1: Should decide on Monument Valley days � is one sunset/sunrise ok or do I need to stay a day more? Is my schedule too tight for MV? </p>

<p>Q2: Seems that generally mid afternoon has a better light in wintertime than morning part in Monument Valley. I�m looking at the map in J.K.Lange�s �the Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona� p.43 and there are trails in two colors - brown and in green � which ones are accessible without Navajo guides and which are not (or they all are)? (e.g.can I access teardrop arch without a guide?) </p>

<p>Q3: Can I manage the road to Bryce on the same day when leaving Monument Valley, going to Antelopes and Horseshoe bend or it�s better to stay a night over in Page? </p>

<p>Q4: If I stay in Page � what are the shooting opportunities at sunset and sunrise there then? </p>

<p>Q5:Are there a lot of possibilities in Bryce canyon on February? Or is it too cold to hike, etc.? As I understand sunset isn�t too good there just a time to spot the best places for the sunrise? </p>

<p>Q6: As I understand then Antelope Canyon light in February will be bad for any shooting so I should just to visit it for a tourist view, right? Anyway I should be in Upper Canyon around 11.00-13.00? </p>

<p>Q7: Death Valley lodging � two possibilities: Furnace Creek Ranch or Stovepipe Wells Village. Any advice experience here? Stovepipe is 26miles further on north. What are the main attractions (the only one I�ve heard is Zabriskie point) in DV and how do you go around there? How much time will it take to 'have a look around'?</p>

<p>Q8 : Where�s the best spot for LA sunset (the whole city in a frame) picture? Any good/worth sunrise spots? </p>

<p>As I'm quite confused with my tip from Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon visit and activities on bryce and Zion, I have made a possible plan for those days (Plan B). Bear in mind that I can't switch LV and LA days :( </p>

<p><b>Plan B:</b> </p>

<i><p>17.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ via Desert view (Hhwy64) to Monument Valley (total of 240miles or 385km) via Bitter Springs � see Horseshoe Bend, Antelope canyons/ afternoon driving on MV routes if there�s a time/ stay in Gouldings lodge (hopefully)/ photo: sunset@Monument Valley/</p>

<p>18.Feb- photo: sunrise@Monument Valley (navajo guide?)/ surrounding Mexican Hat, something else during the day time, Monument Valley road in the afternoon/ photo: sunset@Monument Valley</p>

<p>19.Feb- photo: sunrise@ Monument Valley / go to Capitol Reef (total of 191miles or 306km)/photo sunset@Capitol Reef. </p>

<p>20.Feb- photo: sunrise@Capitol Reef/ explore Capitol Reef go to Bryce (Fruita (Capitol Reef) to Bryce Canyon: Total of 121miles or 194km.)/ photo: sunset@Bryce </p>

<p>21.Feb- photo: sunrise@Bryce/ got to Zion (Total of 87miles or 140km)/ photo: sunset@Zion/</p>

<p>22.Feb- photo: sunrise@Zion/ Zion to Death Valley (total of 300m or 480km)/ stay in Furnace Creek Ranch or Stovepipe Wells Village / photo: sunset@Death Valley</p></i>

<p>23.Feb- photo: sunrise@Death Valley/ arrive Lvegas (total of 140miles or 225km), photo: sunset@LV (maybe) & nightly Vegas </p></pre>

<p>With this plan I don't let enough staying in any of places, right? </p>

<p><u>Questions remaining:</u> </p>

<p>Q9: Is there enough to see in Zion n February to sty a full day more? </p>

<p>Q10: Should I reduce my stay in Monument Valley? </p>

<p>Q11: Will full size car be ok for those access points (to and inside parks?)? </p>

<p>Will be very grateful of your thoughts! </p>

<p>Best, </p>

Raivo

<p>Shun wrote:

<i>Hiking down and then up the Grand Canyon in a day is a challenge. I have done that once in 1975 when my entire highschool graduating class did it together. That was in May and it was hot. Our feet were hurting for several days afterwards. I would spend 2, 3 days shooting a GC. </i></p>

<p>Well I will look what the weather will be alike. If it�s icy and snow � I�ll pass it. If it�s dry � I guess I might do it. My colleague did the trip in the very heat in May and managed to do this in 2h down and 4h up... He�s about the same fitness as me. </p>

<p>I have extended my stay @GC by a night. What�s your approach to photographing sunsets/rises there � do you settle in one point and record the light changes or do you people travel between different points there? What are your favorite spots for shooting there? </p>

<p>Louie Escober wrote:

<i>My responses will necessarily be short as I am currently in Argentina visiting (and shooting) Los Glaciares and will shortly be heading to Chile to trek the Torres del Paine. So, I´m kinda busy right now. </i> </p>

<p>Hope you�re having a good time there! </p>

<p><i>In your itinerary, you mention a stop at Lake Powell. Could you be more specific? Lake Powell is a big lake, and I don´t see how expedia can give you accurate distances without specifying at least a city. </i></p>

<p>I�ve got a map and cleared a few thing... now I know one can�t relay on Expedia much:( </p>

<p><i>However, I´m still a bit confused by your itinerary. You say you also want to hit Arches National Park. This is very far out of your way.</i></p>

<p>I have taken the Arches out :( maybe next time(hopefully!). </p>

<p><i>An itinerary that included the places you mention would probably go - Phoenix, Grand Canyon, Page, Monument Valley, Moab (gateway city to Arches), Capitol Reef N.P., Bryce, Zion, Las Vegas, LA. Heck, it would be easier to drop Arches and throw Death Valley in instead. D.V. isn´t as far out of your way.</i></p>

<p>Not sure if I can manage Capitol Reef then either but will consider Death Valley... It still needs a day or two right? </p>

<p><i>You´ll need chains or a 4x4 to get around Bryce. </i> Really? Oh..I thought (based on some suggestions elswhere that I might skip the SUv and go with compact... </p>

<p>I�ve got some answers from car rentals: </p>

<p><i>-Avis does not offer the chains with their vehicles, the vehicles do come with all weather mud and snow tires. </p>

<p>-Budget doesn't have chains to rent nor do they allow chains to be

installed on their vehicles.</i></p>

<p>Steve wrote:

<i>I might skip Lake Powell (unless you have some real reason to go there), and put Death Valley back on my list.</i></p>

<p>Done (no reason to go specifically to Lake Powell area). </p>

<p>Bob: </p>

<p><i>spend more time in monument valley and its neighbors, valley of the gods and the moki dugway. </i></p>

<p>Well I�ll look at that. Is it accessible on February? given this: </p>

<p><i>The breathtaking ride up or down the Moki Dugway is an experience not soon forgotten. Stunning views open from the Dugway as it winds its way 1,200 feet from Cedar Mesa to the Valley of the Gods. The Dugway�a three-mile graded and graveled section of Utah Highway 261�descends a steep 11% grade from the mesa top to the valley floor. </i>

http://www.stehno.com/frankp/sagemesa/destinations/utah/utpoints/mokidugway.htm </p>

<p>Craig:

<i>"I-number" is an "Interstate" and is usually a divided 4 or more lane highway, numbered highways, in a shield shape are "US" highways and typically at least two lane paved roads, as are most roads that might be numbered. You may also find numbered state highways but that will depend on the detail of your atlas/map.</i></p>

<p>Thanks for pointing this out! </p>

<p><i>I'd suggest planning for road speeds of maybe 50 mph on most roads and 70 mph (locals will drive faster!) on the Interstates to account solely for driving time for planning but then allow some added time for rest stops, viewing, photography along the way, etc. </i></p>

<p>btw.do you have any tips on police work in those 4 different states I�m planning to go? Are they strict on exceeding speeds, etc.? Thanks</p>

<p><i>By the way, Raivo, the main typo you had in your original post was some un-closed PRE, which caused problems in the follow posts in some older browsers</i></p>

<p>Sorry for than Shun, I didn�t know about this as everything looked fine on my browser. </p>

<p>Kosta � thanks for the ideas</p>

<p>Zeyd wrote:

<i>You also left out Joshua Tree National Park. It's right off I-10 on the way from LA to Phoenix and February is a great time to visit.</i></p>

<p>Thanks, I just don�t know if I can manage it�</p>

<p>Useful discussion on Cottonwood Canyon Road. </p>

<p>hmm�? I guess I should err on the side of caution� Would it be my country I guess I would take the chances�but if it�s dry? well I guess I should keep a note just in case..or shouldn�t I? </p>

<p>Thanks a lot for your answers. I have booked some hotels and some will be left unbooked for flexibility. </p>

<p>I�ll post my itinerary plan soon here so you can add (hopefully) any other comments and suggestions. </p>

<p>One more thing for me to decide is to SUV or not to SUV�?</p>

<p>Thanks a lot for now. </p>

<p>Best, </p>

Raivo

<p>Shun wrote:

<i>Hiking down and then up the Grand Canyon in a day is a challenge. I have done that once in 1975 when my entire highschool graduating class did it together. That was in May and it was hot. Our feet were hurting for several days afterwards. I would spend 2, 3 days shooting a GC. </i></p>

<p>Well I will look what the weather will be alike. If it�s icy and snow � I�ll pass it. If it�s dry � I guess I might do it. My colleague did the trip in the very heat in May and managed to do this in 2h down and 4h up... He�s about the same fitness as me. </p>

<p>I have extended my stay @GC by a night. What�s your approach to photographing sunsets/rises there � do you settle in one point and record the light changes or do you people travel between different points there? What are your favorite spots for shooting there? </p>

<p>Louie Escober wrote:

<i>My responses will necessarily be short as I am currently in Argentina visiting (and shooting) Los Glaciares and will shortly be heading to Chile to trek the Torres del Paine. So, I´m kinda busy right now. </i> </p>

<p>Hope you�re having a good time there! </p>

<p><i>In your itinerary, you mention a stop at Lake Powell. Could you be more specific? Lake Powell is a big lake, and I don´t see how expedia can give you accurate distances without specifying at least a city. </i></p>

<p>I�ve got a map and cleared a few thing... now I know one can�t relay on Expedia much:( </p>

<p><i>However, I´m still a bit confused by your itinerary. You say you also want to hit Arches National Park. This is very far out of your way.</i></p>

<p>I have taken the Arches out :( maybe next time(hopefully!). </p>

<p><i>An itinerary that included the places you mention would probably go - Phoenix, Grand Canyon, Page, Monument Valley, Moab (gateway city to Arches), Capitol Reef N.P., Bryce, Zion, Las Vegas, LA. Heck, it would be easier to drop Arches and throw Death Valley in instead. D.V. isn´t as far out of your way.</i></p>

<p>Not sure if I can manage Capitol Reef then either but will consider Death Valley... It still needs a day or two right? </p>

<p><i>You´ll need chains or a 4x4 to get around Bryce. </i> Really? Oh..I thought (based on some suggestions elswhere that I might skip the SUv and go with compact... </p>

<p>I�ve got some answers from car rentals: </p>

<p><i>-Avis does not offer the chains with their vehicles, the vehicles do come with all weather mud and snow tires. </p>

<p>-Budget doesn't have chains to rent nor do they allow chains to be

installed on their vehicles.</i></p>

<p>Steve wrote:

<i>I might skip Lake Powell (unless you have some real reason to go there), and put Death Valley back on my list.</i></p>

<p>Done (no reason to go specifically to Lake Powell area). </p>

<p>Bob: </p>

<p><i>spend more time in monument valley and its neighbors, valley of the gods and the moki dugway. </i></p>

<p>Well I�ll look at that. Is it accessible on February? given this: </p>

<p><i>The breathtaking ride up or down the Moki Dugway is an experience not soon forgotten. Stunning views open from the Dugway as it winds its way 1,200 feet from Cedar Mesa to the Valley of the Gods. The Dugway�a three-mile graded and graveled section of Utah Highway 261�descends a steep 11% grade from the mesa top to the valley floor. </i>

http://www.stehno.com/frankp/sagemesa/destinations/utah/utpoints/mokidugway.htm </p>

<p>Craig:

<i>"I-number" is an "Interstate" and is usually a divided 4 or more lane highway, numbered highways, in a shield shape are "US" highways and typically at least two lane paved roads, as are most roads that might be numbered. You may also find numbered state highways but that will depend on the detail of your atlas/map.</i></p>

<p>Thanks for pointing this out! </p>

<p><i>I'd suggest planning for road speeds of maybe 50 mph on most roads and 70 mph (locals will drive faster!) on the Interstates to account solely for driving time for planning but then allow some added time for rest stops, viewing, photography along the way, etc. </i></p>

<p>btw.do you have any tips on police work in those 4 different states I�m planning to go? Are they strict on exceeding speeds, etc.? Thanks</p>

<p><i>By the way, Raivo, the main typo you had in your original post was some un-closed PRE, which caused problems in the follow posts in some older browsers</i></p>

<p>Sorry for than Shun, I didn�t know about this as everything looked fine on my browser. </p>

<p>Kosta � thanks for the ideas</p>

<p>Zeyd wrote:

<i>You also left out Joshua Tree National Park. It's right off I-10 on the way from LA to Phoenix and February is a great time to visit.</i></p>

<p>Thanks, I just don�t know if I can manage it�</p>

<p>Useful discussion on Cottonwood Canyon Road. </p>

<p>hmm�? I guess I should err on the side of caution� Would it be my country I guess I would take the chances�but if it�s dry? well I guess I should keep a note just in case..or shouldn�t I? </p>

<p>Thanks a lot for your answers. I have booked some hotels and some will be left unbooked for flexibility. </p>

<p>I�ll post my itinerary plan soon here so you can add (hopefully) any other comments and suggestions. </p>

<p>One more thing for me to decide is to SUV or not to SUV�?</p>

<p>Thanks a lot for now. </p>

<p>Best, </p>

Raivo

Thanks a lot for so many quick answers. I've to run now and will check it all later but on the spot I see a great news that I can go stright (i.e.there's a road!) to Monument valley form GC rather than via Lake Powell (which I don't want to vist just thought there's no other way around). Great!

Raivo

<p>Hello! </p> <pre>

<p>I know this topic has been covered to tears on Photo.net, but

there always seems to be individual issues not covered on those

wonderful responses on the net. </p><pre>

<p>I'm planning to go to sw of US from Feb 13 � Feb 27 traveling

(last mnute tickets:) ) from Phoenix through Grand Canyon to LA as a

final destination prior returning to Phoenix for a flight back home.

</p><pre>

<p>I was planning the trip and then basically stack at the distance

to be covered from GC to Lake Powell (as it seems is the only way

around GC, is it?). As I have ordered several books from Amazon but

it's expected to get them no sooner that Friday. So I'm stuck in my

planning as I need to make reservations for hotels (at least in

LasVegas and LA). </p><pre>

<p>I would be glad if you could answer to some question (if you have

time of course). So here they are: </p><pre>

<p><b>1) </b>Here's sort of preliminary schedule I have with dates to

fill as I'm not sure is it manageable and is it wise (bear in mind

that I don't knw when I can ever come back to sw or US so I don't

have a luxury of visiting one park at a time :(( ): </p><pre>

<p>13.Feb- flying-in Phoenix/got to Sedona (194km.Est: 2H 10m), too

late for evening photography, stay in Wildflower Inn </p>

<p>14.Feb- photo: sunrise@Sedona/ going to Grand Canyon (243km.Est:

5H 21m), photo: sunset@GC/ stay in Holiday Inn Express or any of

these lodges: <a

href="http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/galleries/img_127.htm">GrandCan

yon lodges</a> (not the ones of $100+) </p>

<p>15.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ if the weather allows South Kaibab

down, Bright Angel up, photo: sunset@GC/ </p>

<p>16.Feb- photo: sunrise@GC/ via Desert view (Hhwy64) to ??? Lake

Powell? � is this the only way to north around GC? Previously I

thought that's the way to go but now I'm cofused as I looked in

Expedia's calculator and it stated it's 520 km and 11 hrs 28 mins!!

of driving. Is it so? <p>Is there any other way? (btw. how precise

are Expedias routes and estimates?). </p>

<p>17.Feb- Lake Powell </p>

<p>18.Feb- Monument Valley </p>

<p>19.Feb-Page </p>

<p>20.Feb-Bryce </p>

<p>21.Feb-Zion </p>

<p>22.Feb-Zion </p>

<p>23.Feb- arrive Lvegas, photo: sunset@LV (maybe) & nightly Vegas

</p>

<p>24.Feb-from LV to LA ()</p>

<p>25.Feb- LA </p>

<p>26.Feb- LA </p>

<p>27.Feb-go from LA to Phoenix: (600km.Est: 5H 56m) </p>

<p>If I could get past GC on a shorter route without visiting Lake

Powell it would be great.

I'm not sure I hae correctly stated the places I want to visit but

what I would like to see (without GC) is: </p>

<p>Zion, Bryce, Monument Valley, Antelope canyon and Arches (I have

dropped Death Valley already). </p>

<p><b>2</b>)Any thoughts about those hotels/motels I've listed? Any

other advice? (I don't want to stay in too expensive places but also

not in a dump place either (holidays should be nice, don't they): </p>

<p>Bryce: BRYCE VIEW LODGE/ruby's </p>

<p>Zion: QUALITY INN AT ZION PARK </p>

<p>Monument Valley: Gouldings Longe </p>

<p>probably you know any good places in LV and LA as well? </p>

<p>I've heard that one must be flexible with his schedule during the

visit on sw � but how do you maage your hotel reservations? don't mae

any at all and just hope there's a place or what? </p>

<p><b>3) </b>Are those distances (and routes) from Expedia correct

and reliable? </p>

<p>Zion-Bryce Canyon: 218 km 3 hrs 54 mins </p>

<p>Page-Bryce Canyon: 132 km 3 hrs 18 mins </p>

<p>Zion-LVegas: 272 km 3 hrs 12 mins </p>

<p>Monument Valley-Page: 206 km 3 hrs 12 mins </p>

<p>Lake Powell-Monument Valley: 379 km 7 hrs 52 mins </p>

<p><b>4) </b>Do I really need SUV for the trip on February or is a

compact good as well? Is it so that you place chains on tires during

a snow time? are those supplied with the car? I have no problem

driving in winter, it's just that we have winter tires on our cars

during the winter time� </p>

<p>I have also heard a statement that US rental rates are more

expensive via internet that in reality in US � is it so or it's just

rubbish? </p>

<p><b>5)</b>on photography � I've read a polarizer is a must at

canyons � is it? Is it a wise idea to bring them there even if I

haven't used any polarizers in my life? </p>

<p>Thanks a lot, </p>

<p>Raivo </p>

P.S. forgive my typo:)

</pre>

Thanks a lot to all who answered! I really appreciate it!<p>

<I>My advice: Processing RAW images take a long time (even if you use default parameters). Extracting embedded JPEGS is quick. Shoot everything with RAW+SMALL JPEG. Use the extracted JPEGS for quickly viewing on a computer, and selecting photos for printing/further work. The "small" JPEGS are not really all that small. When you get down to doing the photoshop or printing, then use the RAW images.</I><p>

I needed to hear this � that's what I wanted to ask on that particular question.<p>

<i>The size difference between RAW+smallest and RAW+largest is not 2x in CF memory consumption. RAW+smallest is in the 7MB range and RAW-largest in 9MB range I think.</i><p>

Yes, I didn't actually meant 2x � just a description:) In fact my 10D shows I can shoot 75 frames in RAW+smallest mode and 60 frames with RAW+largest setting. It's with empty 512MB CF card.<p>

<i>For black & white photography using a deep red filter in certain situations is still important. You can digitally simulate the basic look of a red filter but you can't simulate its ability to see through atmospheric haze. A #25 red is my most-used filter whether on digital or film cameras.</i><p>

Dave � can you elaborate how do you go with b&w photography in digital? You justshoot pictures with #25 and then convert them to color before starting to edit in photoshop?<p>

Best,

Just got my Canon 10D and am packing bags for the trip. I have read

the manual once and have done some reading on RAW file format before

but there�s one (well may be several) thing I�m not sure I understand

correctly. Please look at my thought-flow and tell me where I�m

wrong:<p>

1)RAW files are not compressed files (unlike JPEGs) and thus they are

without any loss of data/exposure/whatever u\you call it.<p>

2)If you shoot RAW file you can almost perform it like point&shoot

camera action (excluding ISO settings, apertures, etc.) � you

<b>may</b> not worry about light balancing, under/overexposing, etc.

as you can change it all on your editing software.<p>

3)If you choose to adjust light balance, exposure level, etc. it will

be recorded on RAW and if done correctly with camera there will be

little you need to do with PC.<p>

4)It�s better to convert RAW to 16bit TIF than 8bit because of higher

quality.<p>

5)If all you need from the image is 10x15cm (is it 4x6�?) print from

the picture then Large JPEG format is more than enough.<p>

6)When you shoot in RAW format then you have to choose an embedded

JPEG format for the shot as well. You should choose the smallest one

because:<p>

a)It takes less space on your CF card;<p>

b)You can convert a RAW file to Large JPEG file and this image would

be exactly the same as if you shot it on Large JPEG setting at first

place (it�s your problem you used 2x the space needed for the shot).

(or should shoot RAW+Large JPEG to have a) some quick prints and

files to show to friends and b)to have those files for editing

purposes and fine prints)<p>

P.S. On a side note/question � does digital photography changes the

need for filters (like 81s, polarizers, neutral density, etc.) or

not? Why?<p>

P.S.S. Is it true digital is not usable after 1sec long exposures or

I have misread it somewhere (I haven't had time to test it myself).

If yes then why?<p>

Best,

Thanks for your response!<p>

What tripod do you use for such trips? And what monopod? <p>

My equipment would include Canon 10D and biggest of lenses

would be 70-200/f4<p>

Best,

Raivo

Steven - thanks for your guiding-problem solving-directional questions. I hope my answers will help you to help me:) <p>

<I>How much do you have to spend in total?</I><p>

I haven't decided on budget as I will tighten my belt and buy a good thing at first and don't want to feel sorry I didn't buy the thing and then upgrading it later and paying more in total. We have a saying here <I>cheapskate pays twice</I>. But of course by no means money isn't an issue for me.<p>

<I>How serious a hobby is it? </I><p>

Photography � it's most serious hobby I have:) As I'm going digital it's become an issue.<p>

<I>How many hours a day will you be using it? </I><p>

Well I have a job so it's couple of hours after work and more on Sundays and Saturdays (especially during the winter time:) ) <p>

<I>What size photo and video files will you be manipulating? </I><p>

I guess RAW files on Canon 10d are ~5.5MB? I don't know yet how large those files are when converted to .tiffs. The same goes for video editing � I haven't done it. Video editing will be performed only from time to time (after returning from traveling and putting those multiple cassettes in some nonboring, nice film).<p.

<I>What is your final output device? </I><p>

For video it's DVD (I might by DVD recorder from the beginning or add it later) and MiniDV cassette. I want to add the music also to the video. Photography � some storage device (DVD or CD) and printer. For large print needs (some wall hungers) I will choose photo lab. (A good advise on printers wouldn't harm either.)<p>

<I>Will you be sending output to 3rd parties? </I><p>

Some compressed files to friends/relatives and sometimes a big file to photo lab for large size printout. Otherwise no. No intent for publishing or something. <p>

<I>Is calibration and color management important to you? </I><p>

Judging by statements on discussion forums � calibration spider and software is a way to go so will see. I don't tend to by it at first but the ability to add it would be great.<p>

I guess I will not buy a scanner. I can scan at some other place if the need arises. <p>

Best,

Thanks a lot for your answers. <p>

So your suggestion would be around this?:<p>

<I>Are you willing to build your own machine?</I> - no, so I guess I�m going with Intel.<p>

<b>Processor speed</b> - Pentium IV at around the 2.53 (or higher) speed range for best economics<p>

<b>RAM</b> � 1GB (if possible more). So I should get DDR RAM at some medium rate and don�t bother about the rest, right? Should I go with DDR333? May I should follow on Kelly's advice on RAM upgrades�<p>

<b>Hard drive</b> � I should go with 120GB drives and mirror them with RAID 1 <p>

(btw. I have used that the tendency is to make installations on C drive and files on D drive where C usually is small and all the big memo space is located on D. Any comments on this (am I out of line here with what I say?)?<p>

I don�t know what�s NTFS and Fat32 anyway� and I don�t completely follow what Scott said (sorry):<p>

<I>The easiest compromise, and my strongest recommendation for installing Win2K or XP on large HD's is to create a smaller, 5-10gig partition first with NTFS for the OS, and them use the rest of the space for another data partition with Fat32. Best of both worlds, is easy to set up, and allows you to put your XP swap file and Photoshop scratch disk in the first partition where they will run fast and clean. If you keep the first partition below 50% full, you'll never suffer from your PC slowing down over time due to your HD filling up and fragmenting. End of problem. </I><p>

<b>Monitor</b> - 19� � Trinitron? still waiting for some advise on dot pitches and refresh rates. <p>

<b>USB/FireWire</b> - The PC will not be pre-built, I will have it set up for me. So if I don�t have to contend with what it comes with then what�s the way to go � to have add-on cards or what? Is it then internally or externally placed? <p>

<b>Back-up</b> - So you advise to go with DVD-burner and with the setup described in Hardware section I wouldn�t have to worry? Does it mean I have to do a lot of DVD burning or not? <p>

<b>Motherboards</b> - I don�t know yet what�s available at my country but are you suggesting 133/266a AMD or AMD Athlon 1700+? What specs should I pay attention there? <p>

<b>Video card</b> - Is there a big difference if I use it for only Photoshop or also for video editing?

<b>Sound card</b> - what I mean is that I will make video editing with some sound editing as well. I�m using MiniDV format and Canon camcorder supporting Digital in and out. And if I get DVD burner then the film will go to disc (image and sound). May be I should clarify to myself � does sound card reflects only the output of the sound on speakers or it changes something also on sound mixing for CDs/DVDs etc.? Or is it <b>audio card</b> which is important? What�s advise then on audio cards (if there�s such a thing)?<p>

<b>System cooling</b> � is it a question only of holes in front and back or anything else?<p>

Yeah, what I meant with the second PC is � can I somehow utilize the extra monitor or system that I have currently (see introductory paragraph above)? What�s the best way to go there as is it helpful at all?<p>

Thanks one more time for your help � I just want to be sure that I know myself some stuff before going PC buiders/setuppers. I just don�t trust a lot of <I>experts</I> here as there have been plenty of times when the only thing a salesman or alike can tell you is that e.g. camera X is better than camera Y because it simply is better and that�s it! He doesn�t know a s@#$ about the product which he�s been selling for month� You guys are great!<p>

Cheers,

I was wondering how do you go around on <i>city trips</i> (e.g. I�m

going to NY this moths). There are basically two types of photos one

can make in cities if to make a generalization - street photography

and cityscapes. <p>

For street photography I guess ninety percent you without any support

but your hands.<p>

What to do with cityscapes? First one has to consider compromise

between weight and carrying options as usually (if one�s not purely

on photography assignment) one leaves hotel room on the morning and

returns late evening. So one has to remember that he will visit some

museums, shops, restraints, etc. during the day. Of course, if one�s

devoted to photography it initially implies he�s

willingness/readiness to carry extra weight around. But still it�s an

issue.<p>

Second I guess is stability of camera & lens support. Is tripod or

monopod the way to go? I don�t have any idea on monopods as I haven�t

used one in my life.

<p>I would be glad to hear your opinions on pros/cons of the issues

and your experiences. I haven�t found the issue discussed in

photo.net archives. And I would like to hear more information before

deciding whether to buy a light tripod or monopod.

<p>p.s. I have read the article <a href="

http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2gkrc/Tripod-Test.html"> Lighter-

Weight Tripods for Travel: A Suitability Survey by Robert Segal</a>

and currently like Velbon Chaser EFL-4 option but I have to look at

it more as I didn�t really get what kind of head it uses.

<p>p.s.s. I currently have Manfrotto/Bogen 055PRO/3021BPRO tripod

with Manfrotto/Bogen 468RC/3435QR ballhead. But it�s way too heavy

and large for trips and cities to carry with all the day.

Best,

Hello all,<p>

Help a confused soul (that would be me) to choose a computer system.

I have read as much as I can and have come to be more and more

confused. My objective is to buy a PC and monitor to be able to do

<b>digital imaging editing and also video material (from digital

camcorder) editing</b>. I must say that I haven�t experienced it

before and currently one can say I don�t have a PC at home if not to

consider the current ancient system (32MB RAM; Pentium-MMX, 166MHz,

Cache 512K,15� monitor). I plan to buy everything from scratch of

course.<p>

I don�t want to spend a fortune on this but I tend <i>to tighten the

belt</i> and buy better things not to regret it in the future and pay

more on upgrades. Best bang for the buck principle most likely should

be applied. And of course, it�s just my hobby. I also want to perform

ordinary operations in MS Office and I Windows XP will be my

operating system.<p>

I have compiled different thoughts from photo.net participants on the

PC system that I thought are relevant to me. I must admit that I

don�t understand all the specifics. My current understanding is

this:<p>

<b>Processor speed</b>: Carl Smith and Darron Spohn suggest that

Pentium III 1.3GHz is faster than Pentium IV (any GHz?) and that�s

the way to go, right? And Pentium III 1.13GHz should go with 1Gb

PC133 SDRAM (not sure I get the differences between

DRAM/SRAM/SDRAM/RDRAM/DRR SDRAM and ECC DRAM).<p>

<b>RAM</b>: So I guess I should go for 1GB right? Or as Darron Spohn

says � <b>budget for RAM first, then decide how fast a computer you

can afford.</b> What�s the advice? Actually I haven�t heard about

Athlon either. I guess it�s much easier to go with Intel stuff in my

country. Not sure if I can get AMD, etc. here and if yes then the

lack of demand may hold the prices higher than Intel�s. It�s much

easier to build a system in US as you can order from variety of

products and suppliers. I don�t know what from all the systems I can

get here. <p>

And Roberto Totaro confuses me even more:<p>

<i>· Where you really save money is on the RAM: RAMBUS modules (the

ones used by the latest P4 motherboards) are about TWICE as expensive

per megabyte as DDR modules (the ones used by Athlon motherboards)!

If you want 1 GB of RAM that can be a nice amount of money, almost

the difference between a (good) CD burner and a (entry level) DVD

burner. Speedwise, in principle RAMBUS should be faster than DDR. In

practice you won't see the difference. Last but not least when

shopping for DDR memory, get the PC-2700 modules (333 MHz bus clock),

not the marginally cheaper PC-2100 (266 MHz). Don't buy PC-3200 (400

MHz) DDR: most motherboards support only 1 (one) PC-3200 module, that

is 512 MB of RAM. If one day you want/need more memory you'll have to

throw away your hugely expensive super-fast PC-3200 module and get

two PC-2700. </i><p>

<b>Video card</b>: not sure about speeds. I don�t play games but I

want to do video editing. www.normankoren.com states <i>It helps if

the video card software allows you to adjust gamma</i>.<p>

<b>Hard drive</b>: <a href="

http://www.normankoren.com">www.normankoren.com</a> and Darron Spohn

advices for capacity. Darron Spohn further goes with <i>Get a 7200

RPM drive with a 1MB or larger cache, and make sure the access time

is under 9 ms. · Whatever computer you choose, make sure it has

multiple drive bays and a power supply that can support the drives.

You will run out of drive space eventually. Adding a drive is easier

that replacing a drive, and less expensive than adding an external

drive.</i>I�m also on RAID/SCSI/ATAs.Somebody mentions scratch disk,

ahat about it?<p>

I�m lost on Carl B�s thoughts - <i>IDE RAID (promise fasttrack 100

with 4 x4 40GB WD ATA100, raid0) works for me, never seen anything

better, the only thing that beats it is SCSI160 raid, and a

controller for this is way too expensive. Works awesome on XP. FAT32

is still way to go (Pierre is right), no it is not limited to 32gb,

an fragmentation of MFT and such is not an issue then. Gary is wrong,

and NTFS really gets slower, and cannot be read from a plain boot

disk in case of crash. DiskKeeper is slowing you down and you have to

pay for it too.</i> I just know I don�t want to spend money for

nothing and fancy (in name of fancy).<p>

Roberto Totaro opinion - <i>I have a humble 120 GB ATA-133 7200 RPM

hard disk (not a SCSI) and I can still open a 100 MB Photoshop file

in a few seconds. Whether a SCSI hard disk is going to be faster than

an ATA-133 depends on many factors, but especially on the SCSI

controller you have. Unless you have a fancy controller with plenty

of on board cache, you won't see much of a difference between SCSI

and ATA disks. The ATA's, though, are cheaper and you don't need an

additional SCSI controller that, in my own experience, can be an

endless pain in the a** (because of compatibility and performance

issues).</i><p>

<b>Motherboards</b> - ???<p>

<b>CD/DVD drives</b> � I guess the question really is whether to go

for DVD writer or not. What are the minimal qualities needed? I have

seen some cheap DVD writers but don�t know how to evaluate them. Boy,

what can�t producers go with one standard from the very beginning� <p>

Roberto�s input again � <i>Concerning backup devices, IMHO a CD

burner doesn't make much sense: I scan my 35 mm film on a Canon

FS4000 and the resulting Photoshop files are around 100 MB each (at

14 bit/color, 4000 dpi). That means 6 or 7 images per CD. Ridiculous.

Get a DVD burner. Among DVD burners, possibly the best buy at the

moment is the Sony DRU500: it can burn basically any kind of DVD

media (DVD-R/RW, DVD+R/RW, DVD-RAM...) I have it and it's absolutely

great.</i><p>

There�s a bit clarifying article in PC Magazine � <a href="

http://www.pcmag.com/print_article/0,3048,a=40010,00.asp"> DVD Wars:

Cooling Down?</a>. It seems the three options currently are Panasonic

LFD521U(best price $220), Pioneer DVRA05(best price $238) and Sony

DRX500ULX(best price $389).<p>

The prices are coming down and standards more universal but when�s

the entry point? What�s the brake-even point for burning more CR-

R/RW�s and less writable DVD�s but with higher burner and matrices

costs? Isn�t the space on CD-R�s too small for you?<p>

<b>Monitor</b>: I guess I would go with 19 inches. I have heard also

about 0.24 or 0.25 dot pitches. What�s the way to go there? What

other indicators I should take into account? What about refresh

rates, BNC inputs?<p>

Darron Spohn argues - <i>Aperture grill monitors are sharper than

shadow mask monitors. · You also want a monitor with a flat

screen</i>. www.normankoren.com contradicts - <i>Get the best

monitor you can afford. 19 inch monitors are fine and not very

expensive. Make sure you have a modern monitor that allows you to set

the color temperature to 6500K. Darron Spohn prefers aperture grill

monitors over shadow mask monitors-- they're slightly sharper, but

not necessarily superior.</i><p>

Joze Volf goes - <i>I simply dissagree with the tip about choosing

monitor. I work in a computer business and I see and evaluate a lot

of equipment. Generaly an aperture grill display realy has a very

fine dot but this doesn't mean that the picture is sharp and pleasant

for viewing for long hours on a daily basis. Most AG CRTs I have used

(and they were all high priced models) were irritative for my eyes.

This was specialy noticable on high resolutions. And the colors; the

black is never near black when compared to shaddow mask display and

the structure of dots on quality shaddow mask monitor is much more

apropriate for viewing and editing photos on screen and picture also

looks more natural and ergonomic (less irritative)</i>.<p>

Remember, it�s just my hobby. What about dual monitors? Is it a nice

feature? As I currently own a 15� monitor I could make it dual with

my current 15�? Can the current PC be of any use for future? What?

Can I easily switch to the other PC on one of those monitors?<p>

<b>USB</b>: I guess USB 2.0 is the way to go, mhh?

FireWire: It�s IEEE1394 card, correct? I have heard it�s better to

have it with SCSI interface� Steve Bingham�s says - <i>The current

crop of 6 meg cameras use firewire. Thank God. Generic USB would take

forever. As for speed, USB 2 is slightly faster (450 verses 400). As

for digital camera image upload, firewire is much more popular. Also,

with video, firewire is also king. With a price of $49 for the

firewire card, including video editing software, why the debate????

</i> And I understand I need it for video editing, right?</i><p>

<b>Surge protection</b>: no clue how does it work.

www.normankoren.com says At minimum you need a protector with a UL

1440 let-through rating of 330V maximum. I don�t if it can be applied

to Europe as well. You have different power number system to our

220V, right? <p>

<b>Back-up</b>: how do you go with this issue? What do you think

about <a

href="http://www.pcmag.com/print_article/0,3048,a=33946,00.asp">

Maxtor Personal Storage 5000LE </a>? Is there a cheaper but safe

option?<p>

<b>Sound card</B> - I guess for video editing I should have something

decent, eh?<p>

<b>Expansion slots</b> - ???<p>

I also understand that the key is also to balance the system. <p>

I have read also that it�s a good idea to go with to PC � one for

editing other for Internet, etc.? Can I use my in such a manner? What

wire do I need? <p>

Hope to get some clarifying inputs. Thanks in advance! <p>

Best,

Has anybody tested or seen tests on Canon Canon ef 17-40 f/4L?

<p>Best,

Thanks for so many answers!

<p>Seems a good idea to try a full set of <i>want-filters</i> for one lens and then see what I need and really use.

<p>So I guess step up rings are not such a good idea if you consider that you are limited to use lens hood�

<p>John � I�m not quite sure I understood your first sentence of the second passage. So you would put the lens for b&w landscape photography but don�t find it necessary for street/documentary and portraiture?

<p>Cokin P system would solve the problem of the placement of graduated ND screw-in filters. But I haven�t heard a good word about Cokins filters itself. Which ones do you use? And do you prefer gel or glass and why?

<p>Best,

Thanks a lot for all of your responses. I guess if I go with Lowepro then I should decide between Nature Trekker and Mini Trekker. Let�s see how it goes.

<p>As to the argument about using ordinary backpack instead of photo one � I guess it�s true for several day hikes but not sure about daily use. My ordinary backpack is definitely too large for a day trip. And how do you pack the camera and various lenses in he ordinary pack so as not to harm them and to get out of the bag before turning it all over?

<p>Maury � as I understand both bags have tripod mounts, right? And those �side bags� should be purchased additionally? Can you add them to Mini Trekker as well? Mini Trekker has an additional bag for rainy day but Nature Trekker is covered with protective material already? What is the difference between Photo Trekker Classic and Photo Trekker restyled version?

<p>Best,

Art - actually I wanted to say that

<p>1)I want the bag to be waterproof as I have experienced some sudden rain while hicking in mountains, and

<p>2)<i>I�m planning to go to the US after a month and want to buy the bag there. Where's the best place to do it (I�ll be in NY)?</i>

<p>

Sorry for my English if I didn't spell my thoughts correctly:)

<p>

Best,

I have read several threads on photo.net but mostly the discussion

end with discussing photo bags not backpacks. My intention is to have

a room for two bodies, four lenses - 28-105; 50; 17-40 and 20-700 (or

100-400, haven�t decided yet), filters, probably camcorder, a place

for some maps and field guide some other small stuff and a

possibility to attach tripod (Bogen 055PRO) with ball head (Bogen

468RC). Of course it would be nice to have a bag which doesn�t scream

out �steel me� and it�s important that it�s waterproof (I have hiked

in mountains when it�s sunny when you start your trip and get pretty

rainy after couple of hours). Any thoughts?

<p>P.S. I�m planning to go to US after a month and want to buy the

bag there. Where's the best place to do it (I�ll be in NY)?

<p>P.S.S.I have seen some description of Tamrac 757 and Domke Spider

10 and 11 but haven�t seen any comments on them and can�t find Tamrac

prices on Adorama and Bhphoto� How do they compare to LowePro Mini

Trekker and Tamrac #5274 Expedition 4 Backpack?

<p>Best,

Hello everybody!

<p>I�m about to buy filters for my lenses when going to US this May.

I can�t buy filters here as the supply is basically none and if you

can get anything then it costs twice as much as in US. (the same goes

for any other photo equipment). So I plan to buy some lenses and

filters there. I know I�ll have big monetary layout at one time but

that�s what I have to do to save! (Oh, it would be much easier to buy

one filter per month�lucky you:))

<p>Currently I have one 58mm diameter lens (28-105) and plan to buy

52mm diameter lens (ef 50 f/1.8 II) and probably 77mm diameter lens

(ef 17-40 f/4) and it might just happen that I get 67mm (70-200 f/4)

lens as well. Here I have it � four lenses with four different

diameter sizes!

<p>What do I want regarding to filters? First of all I think I need

UV filter for each lens (and hood of course) and it should be correct

size for each lens as UV filter will stay on the lenses if no other

filter is used. (Pls. don�t debate on the �UV filter as protector�

issue here as I think it�s worthwhile to protect lens as from dust as

physical damage. I know that it doesn�t matter if I�m a good driver

or not if there are somebody who can damage my car anyway. So I buy

insurance. I�m happy if nothing happens despite my insurance, but if

something happens�I better not take my chances.) So that�s 4 UV

filters at max.

<p>Next�yeah that�s the tricky part. I guess (but am not 100% sure) I

need 81B, polarizer, graduated neutral density and yellow filters (I

like/want to shoot in B&W) to start. So it gets pretty costly..

What�s the strategy you use/advice? Should I buy let�s say 77mm

filter and then use step up rings (btw. is it step down or step up

rings I should use?) or to buy a particular filter for particular

lens?

<p><b>Graduated neutral density filter.</b> I guess I need one in

order to avoid white sky after returning from a sunny trip. I�m just

not sure should I buy Graduated neutral density filters for

sunsets/sunrises and graduated filters for a daylight shots or what?

And what is the rate of graduation I should buy - I have read that 4x

is the way to go (NG Photography Field Guide)? One more concern I

have is that (if I�m right) with graduated ND filter you have a line

in the center of the filter. So one can basically soot only shoots of

horizon in the center of picture, right? It�s basically the last

thing you want to do (except exemptions of course).

<p><b>Circular polarizer.</b> Some write it�s even more essential

than graduated ND filter, is it? Why? Except reducing reflection from

water, cars, etc., what�s the difference between graduated and

polarizer filters? Do polarizers make a difference when not used at

90 degrees against sun?

<p><b>Yellow filter.</b> I like to shoot in B&W but I�m not shooting

so much as I haven�t acquired any filters for it and it�s quite

essential for b&w work. Would love to get some yellow/green and red

filters as well but that makes the process even more costly.

<b>81B.</b> I think it�s nice to have this one but is it essential?

<p>I�m also not particularly sure about mount systems and gels? I

have read that quite a lot people use Cokin P holder and then use

gels. What are the drawbacks, advantages there? Witch gels do you use?

<p>Does digital imaging changes anything on the use of filters (I

presume no but still want to ask)?

<p>And of course I can�t skip the bloody question on the producers of

filters. There are so many views out there!! I guess I�ll skip B&W. I

have chosen to decide between Hoya MC, SMC and Heliopan. Heliopan

doesn�t get mention a lot but to some opinions as good as B&W. How do

you compare Heliopans vs. Hoya? What about Pentax filters? Haven�t

read about them much or looked at their prices. I have also read that

it�s more important to have a good quality on large diameter filters

and not so vital on small ones, is it? So e.g. I guess it�s no use to

pay $10 more for Hoya SMC 58mm UV over Hoya MC (not sure about extra

$6 for Heliopan over Hoya MC?) but what about $6 difference between

77mm UV Hoya MC and Hoya SMC? Or Hoya 52mm Yellow K2 Multi Coated

Glass Filter vs. Heliopan 52mm Medium Yellow (#8) Filter both

costing $19.95??

<p>And one more thing � what is a good or bad step-up ring?

<p>Best,

from <a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/d60/d60.shtml">Luminous-Landscape on D60</a>:

<p>

<i>35mm Photographers: If you've been waiting to make the move to digital but haven't felt that the cost / quality / image size equation worked for you yet � well, I think the time has come � especially if you already own some Canon EOS lenses. On A3 (11X17") and smaller prints the D60 is a champ and there's little advantage to film anymore.</i>

<p>

from <a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/d30/d30_vs_film.shtml">Luminous-Landscape on D30 vs Film</a>:

<p>

<i>"Hi Michael, I've come across your article on the D30 versus film, I agree absolutely with all your conclusions, and I can add something. I own a drum scanner capable of 10,000 ppi and 4.6 D and also made tests with Provia 100F, scanning at 5000 ppi (the theoretical limit of film resolution). At that res the grain shows clearly so the D30 prints is vastly superior. The most approximated look to a D30 file is a 4x5 transparency drum scanned to match the size of a print from the D30+GF Pro (30x40 cm). So I too am impressed by the performance of the D30. It seems that all we used to know about photography no longer applies !!"</i>

<p>

So is 10D worse than D30 and D60?? <p>

P.S.I haven't used none of the cameras mentioned above.

<p>

Best,

Thank you everyone who replied for your good suggestions and ideas. I have been reading a lot many threads on Photo.net and usually I try not to post a lot of questions myself, as indeed there are a lot of answers already. This time I though I will post a question because 1)I will give information about my current equipment and needs 2)a lot of answers on previous threads aren�t of very recent times and while generally nothing changes in photo technique (I don�t mean equipment so much here) things tend to change � there are new posters, somebody hasn�t answered such questions before, etc.

And while I do think that there are stupid questions I generally try to ask question with a tendency to look dumber than smarter. I guess you can get more out what you need. So apologies if something seemed as a �stupid thing to ask�.

To back-comment on your responses and ask some more questions, here it goes:

NK Guy � Thanks so much � Your site is wonderful! Recommend to check it! I have printed a ton and it has kept me busy for several evenings (and I was so close to the end of the book I was/am reading�). On beginners section - there was a lot I new already and a lot I didn�t and a lot I thought I new but didn�t understand. When reading some materials I often think would I understand it also if I hadn�t new this and that before? Anyway NK your paper provided me with a lot of help and of course with an even more confusions. Ehh�why can�t it always be easy � A is better than B and B is better than C and period. And if one doesn�t have so much time/possibilities/money to test a lot of equipment then it becomes very hard to buy this magical universal thing just for you.

Your article on Elan 7e disappointed/confused me a little as your well made arguments doesn�t show this body as good as I though it is (I haven�t read any other threads or materials on it yet though).

Jim � thanks for some nitpicking and advice. Considering the money I�m going to spend�.but it�s not so that I�m going to buy it this month or even year. It�s a sort of long-term plan/dream � so some tradeoff has to be made. Do you really think 550EX is for starters or was it just a bit of sarcasm from your side?

Chuck � I guess that�s a good advice from your experience it�s just to find what path to go. Ok, I guess I sort of know about my filters but there are a lot of time I can�t make some photos I want because I lack something (is it skill or some equipment?).

Chris � yeah, that�s why it�s a �dream list� based on real needs. Like why did I mentioned pricey EF 100-400 lens � it has everything up to 400 (and more so with an extender) and I guess that would be limit I can afford/justify to own someday. In the country I live it�s impossible to rent a lens and go on vocations to shoot. Photo shops don�t even have most of the stuff in inventory and everything must be order with some up-front payments. So what more do I have than Internet forums to rely on?

What do you think about NK Guy�s paper on EOS 30???

Brian and Al � that�s sort of cost wise but on the other hand is it? If I have Canon EOS system I guess it�s cheaper to stick to it in order to have compatible bodies and lenses or isn�t it? How does Vivitar 283 works with Canon?

Michael � I was first in line as I started this thread :)

Paul � thanks, that�s what I intend to do. But actually a digital body would help in a lot of situation and reduce operating expenses so to say and also allow to see the correct image on the spot and not to rely much on those photo labs. You can do a lot of mistakes while learning and it won�t cost you a film�

what do you mean �it�s true, you got more than what some if not most of the pros have here.� you mean pros have even less that Canon EOS 300 and EF28-105??? Really?

Macman � you see when I think about choosing flash I also have in mind some �home studio� settings. I want to do some photos with people and still life but of course I can�t spend a fortune on some fancy light-kit. So my question would rather be like whether a good flash would substitute a sort of studio light as well. Like 2-in-1? Then the idea would be to go for a better flash. Not that I need the flash for some party/event photography.

Ivar Wind Skovgaard � Thanks for comment. Yeah, you have got my problems (not that I mean dirty scanner on some of my photos..) I guess 50mm would be my next buy together with some filters. Do you thing Macro 100mm would be good also for portraiture?

17-24 � I don�t know about that also may be the wide angle isn�t the most needed lens for me yet. But I have felt I would like to go more than 105mm quite a times. Of course I don�t have any deadlines, etc. It�s just sometimes feels that sometimes people with �ordinary� digital cameras taking sharper pictures than me with film. At least on PC screen (e.g. here on Phot.net).

Ed Olson � you to be in my shoes indeed. With G3 you mean Contax G3 right? What about it's 'compatibility' with Canon lenses, etc.? What kind of lenses do you own currently? I'm intrigued with your proposal�

My current equipment: Canon EOS 300 (Rebel 2000?), EF 28-105 f/3.5-

5.6 IS and UV filter and Manfrotto (was it Bogen in US?) tripod

055PRO/3021BPRO and ballhead 468RC/3435QR. I have a thourt of an

upgrade plan for future but have some doubts on some issues.

Photography is just my hobby but one thing I hate is to buy something

cheap at first and then buy the same item of a higher quality later.

I better wait and save some money and then go for good quality. So my

ideal current plan for a �complete set� is to go for Canon EF 100-400

f/4.5-5.6IS; Extender EF 1.4X (I have read 2.0X wouldn�t be such a

good idea on zoom lens); EF 100 f/2.8 Macro; EF 17-35 f/2.8L; EF 50

(don�t know which one); flash Canon 550EX; filters, home studio

equipment and Canon EOS D60 body. Prety costly, eh?

Here comes the question � which way to go step by step and where cuts

can be made to save on bucks and not loose much of a quality. I like

to shoot landscapes, portraits, candids and Macro. I like to do both

B+W and colour and that means that I need a second body. Question on

bodies � I think that my ideal camera would be Canon D60 and that

would be enough for me for many,many years but..$2000

currently..ouch! So while waitg the price to drop or wage to rise

what is the best way to go � take one more Canon EOS 300V (a new

version with a cool LCD display on back) or go for something better?

Lenses � I have heard and read that EF 50 f/1.8 II is quite good (and

cheap!) so it seems it could be my next buy. But what about other

lenses? On macro photography � I�m currently tending towards Canon

Macro filter 250D for my 28-105 � any thoughts on this? Does B&W have

it? Is it better?

On filters: which are the essential ones? For Black and white �

yellow 8, 81B and yellow-green 11 (enough? too much?) For colour �

ND, polaraizer??? What to do in bright sunny days when skys seem

white on prints?

What kind of flash should I buy? It seems that 550X is a good one but

costly as well. But I know that I woun�t be able to afoord much of a

lightning for my �home studio� work. What�s the best way there?

Thnx

Hi! I�m concidering to buy a new PC and Monitor. My dilemma on

monitors are 15� LCD vs. 19� Triniton type or to push for 17� LCD? I

have read somewhere that LCD monitors still don�t offer the same

colour spectr and other features as Flat screens for graphical works

(as picture editing and video montages). Any thoughts, facts and

opinions would be most welcome.

P.S. I�m an amateur and it�s just my hobby.