larry gassan

<p>Thanks to everybody who contributed their answers, it helped me out of a production jam.<br>

My current settings for scanning 6x6 are:<br>

under INPUT:<br>

FRAME OFFSET: -5<br>

FRAME SPACING: 60<br>

BATCH LIST: 1,2,3<br>

I'll post any relevant developments on batch scanning 6x9s in the near future.</p>

<p>I'm currently having a lot of fun with my Fuji GSW690iii, the "Texas Leica" r/f. With Mamiya 6's [not the postwar folders] starting at $1100, I rethought my position and found a good one on ebay.<br /> I've shot with other 35 r/fs: Yashica Lynx 14, Leica CL, Olympus 35RC which are fun, fun, fun, and in different contexts.</p>

<p>I'd like to use my 52mm Nikon filters on my recently-purchased Fuji GSW680iii. A step-down ring is an option, but will I be seeing sad-n-nasty vignetting as a result? Thanks in advance!</p>

Apologies in advance if this query has been thrashed, and I overlooked it in my search.

 

I'm having problems with frame offset when I batch-scan 120 film [6x6] with the Nikon LS9000. The first frame

lines up, and the succeeding ones are cut off. Does anyone have experience with this? Any suggestions on what the

frame-offset numbers refer to [ie mm, cm, whatever?]

 

On the plus side, the scanner has opened up 30yrs worth of film I've shot. 35 and 120 alike, its delicious. Here

are some examples on my Flickr site:

 

1988 vintage 35mm b&w shot last month:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/larrygassan/2635844398/in/photostream/

 

2003 m/f color

http://www.flickr.com/photos/larrygassan/2562471080/in/set-72157605545362227/

 

1980 Kodak cine-color neg stock:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/larrygassan/2521805095/

 

Thanks in advance

By any chance did anybody try Hamrick's VueScan software? I ditched the Nikon scanning

software with my LS2000 years ago. I got faster, better scans in return.

I'm late to the Hamrick Vuescan Party. Very late.

 

I have a stack of old Kodak 5247 negs. Yes, the heinous lo-budget cine-stock

that was *so* temptingly cheap back in 1978. And I'd been trying to scan them

with my Nikon LS-2000 running the original Nikon Scan software.

 

Then I remembered VueScan. A pro-lab told me about it several years ago, and I

got distracted. I fired up the demo. Whoa! Hello full skies, quarter tones, 3/4

tones. And a customizeable interface [in the standard version, more in the pro

version] for film types, etc.

 

Before you choke to death snickering, I'll say that the Nikon software was OK

when it had "real" film to chew on. But this stock yielded blown-out highlights,

postcard cyan skies, muddy shadows, the works.

 

The VS scans cook off in less than 90 seconds, compared to a grinding 5+ minutes

w/ the NikonScan.

 

The Vuescan traps the individual grain, where the Nikon Scan has a generic

slushiness that happens with borderline underexposed film.

 

For those considering an intervention, you don't have to worry. I stopped

shooting with that dreck years ago. These days its TMAX 400, Fuji 160 & 400, and

so on.

 

The aforementioned LS-2000 is hooked up to an elderly G3, all ether-networked

together to my G4. I can only imagine what the newest version will do on an

LS-9000 riding a G5.

I consider the Leica CL a highly reliable camera with the several caveats?the meter and

the shutter curtains. The camera I'm using is a 1972 CL that belonged to my dad. The

meter probably tanked a week after leaving the factory. The shutter curtains are delicate,

and if you have a hang-nail, you run the risk of opening a pinhole leak.

 

As to metering, I've been on Sunny 16 for so long, the meter is irrelevant. Going

completely manual is very liberating.<div></div>

Last December I was in Italy and Hungary, and shot exclusively with my elderly Minolta Autocord. There were no batteries to hassle with, with the added benefit of being a total conversation magnet.<div></div>

Hello all:

 

Thanks to all for taking the time to examine this question. The

responses are totally solid.

 

--LG

Two questions for recent travellers [6/03].

 

1] With new TSA screening, is film getting fogged? If so, are clear

plastic bags still the way to go? Airports I will frequenting soon

are:

 

LAX

Columbus OH

Minneapolis MN

Atlanta GA

Dulles

 

2] I'm considering carrying a Stroboframe [class reunion photos],

but frankly having my doubts. Zealous security in Kansas City KS

relieved me of my mini-robo keychain pliers, which had been

ignored in LAX, Vegas, and BWI (twice).

 

With TSA rules stating that your luggage can be opened at will,

with no remedy for "loss" or damage, things have definitely

changed.

 

Apologies if this question has been answered better before. I

looked.

 

--Larry Gassan

On the Autocord, which setting [M, X, F] is used when there is no

flash?