uncle_ziba
-
Posts
191 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by uncle_ziba
-
-
I never thought of this "drawback" of digital cameras. My guess there are very high gain op amps that get affected by RF noise and the sensor itself is the antenna.
If you think about it - RF shielding the sensor when it need to be facing the "open air" is going to be a challenge. Sounds like you found a problem... ;)
-
The content is interesting but am I the only one who finds dpreview white on black font ridiculously hard on the eyes?
-
I just saw an ad for a new tank. I bought it. I can't drive to work faster than 40 mph on a highway. The tank sucks.
-
This feature very useful for me. I can't count how many times I forgot to reset the 1600 ISO on the 350d and end up with grainy pictures in broad sunlight. (btw same issue with forgetting to reset exposure compensation).
At least canon is now smart enough to reset auto bracketing. I wish they also did that with ISO (AUTO ISO is as close as it gets) and with exposure compensation.
I think auto ISO also tries to keep shutter speed above 1/focal length which is a good safety net.
Sometimes there is just not enough time to go through a checklist before taking a picture. If something can be automated I want to use it.
-
Look this guy took a photo at 3200. That settles the noise "non-issue" for me. Whether 40D is slightly better or worse than 20D or whatever other APC sensor camera - the noise is low enough to stop researching it.
-
Michael thanks for the link - good test chart. Wooney in addition to the test chart see if you can use the moon for infinity focus test. But it does look like your camera is a bit off.
-
I wonder if we EVER see a cheap full frame or medium format sensor.
I believe the main way to reduce cost of an electronic component is to reduce its footprint on a silicon wafer during production.
There is no way to fit more photo sensors on a standard silicon wafer without reducing the physical size.
Sensors used to cost more because there were a lot of rejects. My guess cost is now simply tied to the cost of silicon, which like gold or oil, does not become cheaper... Or may be I'm guessing completely wrong..
-
Buy the 50 mm and skip the bulky complex zooms... May be get 50/f1.4. Nobody needs that many lenses for learning... Did your college seriously tell you to buy all that glass?
-
I have to assume Walter can figure out how to attach lens on to camera, if it fits. It's not a rocket science. The lens must not fit.
May be the camera was not the Rebel or some non-EF mount Rebel (if one ever existed). We got to see the close up of the mount! Did you ever use any other genuine Canon EF lens on the 35 mm body that also fits the Xti?
-
David I thought you were. My response was tongue in cheek too. Must be one of those internet things that don't come across. Have a good one...
-
Denis, good point but I thought the list would be too long if I added all of the 3rd party lenses. I guess if "step 1" fails one might want to look at non canon brands.
So David are you saying that people who read and ask questions but never quite figure out what they want lack the basic decision making skills? Are we wasting time trying to answer their posts?
Time to go laugh at Ken Rockwell, who takes a hundred times nicer photographs than I do. ;)
-
Here is a quick "next" lens selection algorithm that I found works for me, with
the help of sorted lens list below. There are 67 Canon EOS lenses in the lineup
(including extenders and shift). Shouldn't be that hard to make a choice ;-)<p>
1. Find the lenses with a focal length I want<br>
2. Narrow down by selecting the aperture (wider aperture means heavier and more
expensive glass)<br>
3. Decide IS vs non-IS. Zoom vs Prime. Consider Sigma/Tamron/Used alternative<br>
4. Search 8600 photo.net/eos threads for opinions about candidate lens<br>
5. Read about it more at http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/ and kenrockwell. <br>
6. If not decided, Start over at step 1. Or *may be* post a new lens question. <br>
<p>
Extender EF 1.4x II<br>
Extender EF 2x II<br>
Life-Size Converter EF<br>
EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM<br>
EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM<br>
EF 14mm f/2.8L USM<br>
EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye<br>
EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM<br>
EF 17-40mm f/4L USM<br>
EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM<br>
EF-S 17-85MM f4-5.6 IS USM<br>
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS<br>
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 USM<br>
EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM<br>
EF 20mm f/2.8 USM<br>
EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM<br>
EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM<br>
EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM<br>
EF 24mm f/1.4L USM<br>
EF 24mm f/2.8<br>
TS-E 24mm f/3.5L<br>
EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM<br>
EF 28-105mm f/4.0-5.6 USM<br>
EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM<br>
EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM<br>
EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM<br>
EF 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II<br>
EF 28-90mm f/4-5.6 II USM<br>
EF 28mm f/1.8 USM<br>
EF 28mm f/2.8<br>
EF 35mm f/1.4L USM<br>
EF 35mm f/2<br>
TS-E 45mm f/2.8<br>
EF 50mm f / 1.2L USM<br>
EF 50mm f/1.4 USM<br>
EF 50mm f/1.8 II<br>
EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro<br>
EF 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 II USM<br>
EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM<br>
MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo<br>
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM<br>
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM<br>
EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM<br>
EF 70-200mm f/4L USM<br>
EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM<br>
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM<br>
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III<br>
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM<br>
EF 80-200mm f/4.5-5.6 II<br>
EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM<br>
EF 85mm f/1.8 USM<br>
TS-E 90mm f/2.8<br>
EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM<br>
EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM<br>
EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM<br>
EF 100mm f/2 USM<br>
EF 135mm f/2.8 with Softfocus<br>
EF 135mm f/2L USM<br>
EF 180mm f/3.5L Macro USM<br>
EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM<br>
EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM<br>
EF 300mm f/4L IS USM<br>
EF 400mm f/2.8L IS USM<br>
EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM<br>
EF 400mm f/5.6L USM<br>
EF 500mm f/4L IS USM<br>
EF 600mm f/4L IS USM<br>
-
don't worry about noise up to ISO 800 . Of course any lens is better stopped down a bit, but the L lens wide open at 2.8 is going to be just fine.
I don't think I can take a picture so good in every aspect that this supposed reduced quality of an L lens at 2.8 wide open would be a deciding factor. I wish I was that good.
-
I found that with 200 mm lens hand held I have to use 1/1600 to get reliably sharp pictures. the 1/focal length (or even 1/2*focal length) rule does not apply for sports photo, at least for me. But I haven't tried IS lens and or a monopod, I suspect 1/800 might work (you still have to stop action). If there is not enough light to shoot at that shutter speed you are basically stuck with either adding flash or using even faster lens. Two remote flash heads probably cheaper than 1.8 or 2.0 telephoto lens or a body that can do ISO 6400.
-
If you stop down to f8 or 11 I doubt anyone can tell the difference without looking *really* close. It's the wide open performance that most money goes to. The landscape shot that you posted was at F2 and if was shot with anything other than 50 mm, yes the L glass would have been sharper and have more contrast and possibly better color rendition. At 50 mm you can't beat Canon 1.8 as others have pointed out.
-
It's the first year my son is playing football. I use 40D with 200mm 2.8 lens. I actually gave up on trying to photograph night games (even at ISO 3200 there is not enough shutter speed because of horrible lights). If 1d goes higher than 3200 may be you will be ok. I haven't tried to use flash.
I found 200mm is too short if shooting from the end zone, unless your team spends a lot of time closer to it (I hope it does) I think end zone position gives the best view, but I wish I had 300 or 400 2.8 so that I don't have to crop so much (and lose resolution).
Based on that I would recommend renting 400 2.8 (+monopod) and 200 2.8 and stay behind the end zone. Switch to 200 mm when team gets closer.
-
hehe you all are funny :)
I figured if they have software that extracts license plate number from a video camera they should have one for jersey numbers. Madden should start looking now because I think there are already video stream analyzers that would do this with soccer players etc. (google comes up with a few papers about the technology...)
Actually Amazon sounds like a good option. I wonder what they would charge to classify 3-4 thousand pictures.
-
Does any body know of a software or plugin that would automatically detect
players' jersey numbers in an image and write a file that would tell which image
has which players?
-
Hey Walter, can you post a picture of the back of the mystery lens and/or of rebel xs mount?
-
If you read between the lines what he means is that highlight tone priority does help, in rare cases, and does not cause image degradation in normal shooting situations. So you don't make a compromise (aside from the iso range) if you leave it on all the time. The guy has some nice photographs and artistic style that stand behind his words, so I'd be careful with too much criticism unless you can at least match his skill level.
-
AFAIK Canon Rebel film body has EF lens mount. So does Xti. So you should be able to mount directly. What do you mean "to big to mount"?
-
Check out this test
http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/40d/highlight-rendition.htm
Note I don't want to cause a small explosion by posting a link to, OMG, Ken
Rockwell site. Just thought it's interesting he had to go out of his way to
produce a demonstration for this mode.
-
When you first turned on the camera did it ask to set time/date? If not that could be a sure sign somebody played with it before you. I don't remember that mine had any kind of cover on lcd.
-
Yes that's it "safety shift" - I thought it might be important for Av/Tv mode
from 1dIII manual it seems one setting that could prevent from setting exposure before each frame is if Cn IV-1 set to 3 AE/Lock Metering + Af start.
Mechanical Limit of lens opening steps
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
Since the aperture is set by a step motor I'm not sure it can be completely "stepless".
You can easily check for yourself. Set the camera to manual or Av and hold
the DOF preview button. Now look at the aperture blades through front of the lens while changing the f stop. You would see that the blades are moving in 1/3 steps. from posts above it seems that in auto exposure modes the camera may use even smaller steps