gordon_checknita
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Posts posted by gordon_checknita
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Jay, the problem is that when the camera thinks it is using 800 ISO film the flash ready light starts blinking which indicates that the TTL flash will not work properly.
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The TTL flash system on Nikon FA (FE2, FG and others...)is designed
to work with film as fast as 400 ISO. 800 ISO film will not work
properly according to the Nikon manual and the flash ready light
starts blinking.
Another problem is using 400 ISO and TTL flash for fill flash. If the
camera exposure compensation dial is set to -1 the camera thinks you
are using 800 ISO film!
Is there any way to shoot 800 ISO film with TTL flash and get a
proper exposure?
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Too much contrast between the top and bottom.
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Like some of the other responses, I would suggest the SB-23. It's sooo small and light. I just shot about 100 photos at a wedding with the SB-23 on camera. The flash still recycles within about 1 sec! A word of caution...there was slight redeye on about 10% of the shots but only visible when examining the 4"X6" prints with a magnifying glass. I was shooting with a Nikon FE2 with a motor drive set for single shot mode, 85mm and 50mm lenses, 400 ISO film, shutter speed set to 1/60 sec and I estimated the aperture based on estimated distance with a Flash Guide Estimate of 90ft with 400 ISO film. Every shot was exposed well and I never missed a shot because of the fast recycle time.
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The EM is an older 60/40 center weighted Aperture Priority camera. It works OK for the price. Mount a Series E or Nikkor AIS lens on it and you will get the same the same picture as any other Nikon camera used in aperture priority mode with 60/40 metering ( eg. FE and FE2 ). If you want manual control...say with a Nikkor 85mm lens...meter the subject in "Auto" and adjust the aperture for 1/90 shutter speed, then switch to M90 mode (Manual) and shoot. This would be equivalent to the FE or FE2 using manual mode and a suitable shutter speed for a handheld pix. Compensation is fine tuned with the lens aperture. Simple and as effective as the the FE or FE2.
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Procedure as described above: It will work OK for one double exposure. Take a shot with the lens cap on after doing this to prevent exposure overlap.
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I paid $130 for an FG + 50mm f1.8 E lens + camera bag on Ebay. Mint condition camera and lens.
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The SB-15 is much more compact than the Sunpak 433D...but you can get an Omnibounce Diffuser for the Sunpak and the Sunpak has a higher flash guide number. I vote for the Sunpak.
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A great Manual Zoom portrait lens (inexpensive as well) is the Nikon Series E 75mm-150mm f3.5 lens. Since this lens is only available on the "used" market, they are very cheap. Try to find one with the metal ring (newest model) and one that does not have "zoom creep". Fantastic images!
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Have you ever tried the 75-150mm series E zoom lens? A very sharp manual focus "one touch" lens. Focus at 150mm and zoom out. Great color rendition, bokeh and sharp.
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The 85mm lens is great for head and shoulder portraits, the BEST at f/2. The 135mm has suberb color rendition, best for head shots at about f/5.6.
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Low light situation: Nikon FA and FE2 because of the silky smooth mirror and shutter operation. These are also best with outdoor TTL fill flash.
Vacation situation: Nikon FG, light weight and still lots of control + TTL flash.
Other situation (outdoor cold, rain, snow, mud): Nikon EM & 50mm E f1.8 lens...I can get a good shot but if camera gets damaged I can replace it all for $100.
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I have not used the FM3A, but on the Nikon FG, FE2 and FA the exposure compensation dial will affect TTL flash exposure but not the ambient light exposure in manual mode. Handy for outdoor flash fill. Perhaps the FM3A shares this feature?
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Nikon EM, FG, FE2 and FA (and probably a lot of other Nikons) will expose night shots to several minutes in "A" mode. A little known but very good feature of these "old" cameras.
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Nikon FA and FE2....shoot handheld at 1/15 sec with a 135mm lens..silky smooth mirror and shutter operation. Enough said.
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Use the exposure lock button or shoot in manual mode if the background is bright. Get in close to the subject so the 60/40 center weighting is completely covered by your subject or at least tilt the camera down to elliminate the effect of a bright background. Then lock the exposure with the lock button or set the same meter settings in manual mode. Reframe, focus and shoot.
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The meter coupling lever on the camera body is probably sticky causing the shutter to remain open longer. To check just rapidly change the aperture on the lens (when it is mounted on the camera) and watch the meter coupling lever which is located on the camera body just at the back of the lens. If it moves very slowly or not at all, this is probably the problem. It is usually worse at lower temperatures. A little bit of rubbing alcohol applied with a toothpick along the meter coupling collar and working the lever back and forth may free it up
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The meter coupling lever on the camera body is probably sticky causing the shutter to remain open longer. To check just rapidly change the aperture on the lens (when it is mounted on the camera) and watch the meter coupling lever which is located on the camera body just at the back of the lens. If it moves very slowly or not at all, this is probably the problem. It is usually worse at lower temperatures. A little bit of rubbing alcohol applied with a toothpick along the meter coupling collar and working the lever back and forth may free it up.
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I do this too! Example: Nikon EM which has an M90 setting. I adjust the aperture so that I get a 1/90sec shutter speed when looking at a mid-grey object in direct sunlight. Then I switch to M90 and leave it there. I adjust the aperture according to how I estimate the light has changed. It is easy especially if you allow your estimates to err on the over-exposure side. If you use a 28mm prime lens and shoot at f/11 or smaller aperture you can set "infinity" on the left DOF mark and then see the shortest in focus point in feet based on the right DOF mark. Now you dont't have to focus either!
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I have a Nikon EM, Nikon FG, Nikon FE2 and a Nikon FA. I use them all, typically with different film speeds loaded. For vacations I always take the Nikon FG. It is as small and as light as the EM and has "A", "P" and Manual modes with TTL Flash at 1/90 sec sync. With a mini-tripod, an 85mm and 28mm prime lens combo and the tiny Nikon SB-23 flash, I can travel light and cover most situations. The Nikon FG is well built, works very well (if you know how to use 60/40 center metering), has an exposure compensation dial (a valuable asset for daylight flash fill using TTL flash in manual mode), has an LED shutter speed display that will show over/under exposure to within 1/2 stop accuracy, an audible "beep" if you go below 1/30 sec shutter speed and will do metered night exposures in "A" mode for up to several minutes. Hmmm...I wonder why I need those other Nikons?
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Hal, thanks for your advice, but, you can meter TTL flash. TTL flash is essentially a reflective flash metering system. If you use an incident flash meter reading, take off the dome of the flash meter and take a reflective meter reading at the camera position, both meter readings should be the same. If the TTL flash metering system and the incident flash meter are properly calibrated, the meter and the f-stop setting on the lens should be the same when using TTL flash or incident metering.
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Hal, thanks for your advice, but, you can meter TTL flash. TTL flash is essentially reflective flash metering system. If you use an incident flash meter reading, take off the dome of the flash meter and take a reflective meter reading at the camera position, both meter readings should be the same. If the TTL flash metering system and the incident flash meter are properly calibrated the meter and the f-stop setting on the lens should be the same when using TTL flash.
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