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austin_calhoon

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Posts posted by austin_calhoon

  1. having used both extensively...I reccomend the SB-80. First, you have the metal foot

    on the 80dx. Over the course of two years I broke three SB-28 plastic feet.

     

    Second, the 80dx has an adaptor down to 14mm of coverage. I use 14 & 16 quite a

    bit so this coverage is apreciated.

     

    Third, the SB-80dx has a built in optical slave. This means you can fire it as a slave

    using another flash unit. I constantly use this feature.

     

    Forth, the prices of the flashes are pretty close. I purchased my sb-80 from a SI

    photog for $200. Go figure.

  2. I see... I can say this... There are no where near the quantity of G leneses as there is

    Ais, Ai,

    and AF-AFD. I wouldnt make a decision based on a 70-200 G. You can always sell it

    and put it towards gear.

     

    The N90 would proably fit you well.. Only you will be able to determine this.

     

    If you are looking to spend $500 or less, I would still reccomend the F4. The N80 is

    a fantastic camera, dont get me wrong, but if you are on a student budget (as I'm

    about to be on again!) then go with something compatible with a less expensive Ai or

    AiS lenses.

     

    Here's my deal... I shoot with an F5 and F2. I have a mix of Ais, Ai, AF, AFD, and AFS

    lenses. I just sold the F2, and I'm buying a D2H when realeased. The D2H is going to

    be the primary PJ camera from nikon, and it excepts and meters Ai and AiS glass.

     

    Seeing that Nikon is providing Digital support for older leneses on some fronts, I

    would stick with a film camera that will do the same. As it's been said, many of the Ai

    and AiS lenses are actually better in many respects then their AF replacements. Just a

    thought...

  3. Hi Matthew,

     

    First, you say that compatibility is your main concern, right? Well, if this being the

    main reason you are deciding to upgrade, think about this...

     

    By the time you can afford the lense that are not compatible with the FM-10, you

    most likely will not use the camera anymore and have funds to purchase a higher end

    body.

     

    And just how many G lenses are out there worth purchasing right now? Only a

    handful, and you will be paying premium prices. I know the devout following of

    cameras like the N90, F4, and such (neither have full compatibility with G lenses), and

    the lifetime users of these cameras are not concerned about trading in.

     

    My advice to you.... Purchase a solid camera to help you further your education. A

    camera with a better metering system, more solid construction, and the ability to AF

    lenses. So you want it to work with AI and AiS huh? How about an F4? Arguably the

    best Nikon ever made... and it will fit what you've described well... Flexible, solid, and

    pretty inexpensive for what you're getting...

     

    I would skip the N80 if you already have Ais or Ai lenses and plan on purchasing more

    of them. The N90 is a great choice and recently have made a STEEP decline in price

    on that one big auction site. I've seen Excellent+ going for $300 or so.

     

    If you have the cash, $400-$500 for a good condition one, buy a used F4

    combination (F4, F4s, F4E) and realize that you've made a solid investment should

    you choose to sell the camera down the line. The F4 is what dreams are made of, and

    will be compatible with almost all Nikkors.

     

    My vote for the F4 and keep all you AiS or Ai, buy a few older AF, then Add some

    AFD's. I know someone is going to ring in about the great N90s, which is also a fine

    camera. Just a thought.

  4. I can see both sides of the coin here... First I am a photographer, second I have been

    behind the sales counter at your local camera stores...

     

    The reason employees push certain crap cameras harder than something they

    obviously know is better, money. The retailers gey kickbacks on certain models from

    the manfacturer, which are then passed partially on to the salesman who sells them.

     

    I worked at a Ritz camera center, notorious for asshole sales people, and this is why...

     

    They pay people about $6 an hour to deal with the most retarded people on the face

    of the planet. After 8 hours a day, for months on end, people start to get to you...like

    you wouldnt believe. So, if someone who is obviously a yahoo walked in, wasted my

    time and telling me all their stories and problems, and then wanted a camera...Well,

    they are going to buy the camera that I make a commission off of. $15-$25 for one

    sale vs. a straight $6/hr? You do the math.

     

    Also, realize that many times it's not you they are being an asshole to... It's the

    umpteen million people before you that has wasted their time. I would venture to say

    that for every photographer I talked to who had any knowledge of what they were

    doing, I talked to 99 who didnt and wanted ME to explain it for them.

     

    Alas, I couldnt handle retail sales... And I never quite understood why I would get

    $200 paychecks, and $400 kickback checks that didnt come from my employer.

     

    I've also had the local camera stores be dickheads to me...but I understand why...and

    they generally shut up when I run more equipment & photography knowledge around

    them in one minute, then they could in a week. Order online, and skip the

    middlemen.

     

    just a thought...

  5. Hi Alan,

     

    I guess my first question would be what quality expectations you have for a zoom in

    this range?

     

    I had the Tamron 24-135 for about one year. It was a great "all" purpose lens, and I

    bought it after reading good reviews of it, and the photog I was working with had

    one. Shortly there after I started to notice flaws that bugged me. First, the focus ring

    in my sample became increasing looser month by month (the other sample I tried had

    the same problem). After a while manual focusing was extremely loose and

    annoying.

     

    Also, this lens is pretty soft with fall off at 24mm and soft 135. Acceptable at f5.6 at

    24mm, and decent at f8 135mm. The hood is a cool design, but make sure you turn

    it all the way on or prepare for vignettes! It's all in the eye of the beholder I guess.

     

    I ended up selling the tamron and bought a nikkor's: 35-70 2.8D & 20-35 2.8D in it's

    place. If you are shooting digital, the crop factor will elimate the soft corners of the

    Tamron. ( I used it mainly on the wide end.)

     

    I used the 24-120 VR a bit, and while it's not a zoom that I need, it definitely

    outperforms the Tamron. After bad experiences with quality control of third party

    lenses, I now stick to Nikkors only. The last thing I want to worry about is my

    equipment. just a thought.

  6. I had a similar situation happen with exploding batteries and one of my Sunpak 555

    handle mount flashes. I was using Varta Photo batteries, and sent a reciept of sale for

    the Supak, the flash unit, as well as the defective batteries to Varta. They quickly

    determined the flash wasnt fixable, and sent me a check for the full retail price of the

    Sunpak. They even sent back the broken flash unit, which I sold for parts.

     

    I would say that it might not be worth paying to fix your 8008. I would sell it for

    parts on E-Bay, and put the proceeds towards a functional camera body.

     

    I learned my lesson, and learned to use only batteries from reputable manufacturers,

     

    I strongly reccomend Varta Photo Batteries if you use Alkalines.

  7. The 35-70 2.8D is my standard "everyday" lens. I have found the results to be

    fantastic. tack sharp, and with excellent contrast. While some comlain of the limited

    zoom range, I have found myself hardly craving a wider "everyday" focal length. $600

    seems a little steep, as these lenses are available in mint condition for $350-$450. I

    bought mine in mint condition for $350, and after two years have had no problems. I

    would not reccomend the tamron 28-105 2.8. I used it for a couple of weeks and

    sold it. The sigma lenses are very good, but tend to not hold there value very well,

    and seem to vary in quality from sample to sample. Also, the tokina 28-80 2.8 ATX

    has mixed reviews, and seems to vary in quality from sample to sample.

     

    You cant go wrong with the 35-70 2.8.

  8. Here is something to think about... and I mean really think..

     

    What feature is most important with your next lens purchase?

    Portraits? I've found the 85 to be a great lens, but awfully limiting

    for tight head shots.

     

    The first thing I would tell you is to steer clear from sigma

    consumer zooms. Absolute crap. If you are to purchase a

    70-300, the Nikon ED version is very nice and within your budget.

     

    My reccomendation would be to pick up a user 80-200 2.8 and

    shoot away. I've found anywhere from $275-$400 is user

    condition. Well within your budget. Call KEH, and B&H, and

    Adorama, and Wolf Used... They have tons of stuff they never list

    on the web, and back it up with warranties.

     

    There are somethings I'll never understand... but I figured this

    out long ago... There is always legal methods for raising camera

    funds!

     

    Once I decided that being a photographer was the only

    occupation I could love doing for the rest of my life, I managed to

    fill my bag full of pro equipment, in two years, all out of my

    pocket, and without handouts from anyone.

     

    Start looking around your house... Do you really need this or

    that? You know? I went on huge E_bay runs, cleaning house

    and raising thousands of dollars for gear. You would be amazed

    at what people will buy.

     

    Believe me though, even if you manage to raise funds, it's

    almost impossible to make a decision how to spend it.

     

    I keep a seperate camera fund. Searching local papers, auction

    houses, and shops is a great way to find bargins that you can

    turn over for a profit. It can be done. I'm doing it right now. Good

    luck.

  9. Trickle down branding? Perhaps... but take the average consumer... I have a Zenith

    TV, a Panasonic VCR, a Apple computer, A brandless microwave, and a Sony video

    camera. Trickle down branding isnt the obstacle. Nikon believing they had won the

    race in the first mile is most likely the reason they are so far behind now. You know,

    the whole tortoise and the haire??

  10. Ohhh no... Nikon is is BIG trouble unless they produce something quick. Canon has

    managed to churn out two mid level DSLR's to nikon's zero. Of course, these cameras

    are aimed at ams, but what do you think is the biggest segment of camera

    manufacturer's maket? Hmm... Ams.

     

    So what does this all mean and how does it relate to those of us who could care less

    what the newest camera has come out? Well... as Nikon falls further and further

    behind in Digital Technology, profits are going to decrease, heads are going to roll

    from the top, and quality is going to be compromised. Not to mention Nikon's prices

    are likely to remain higher in the retail market due to the increase in R&D spending

    needed to catch up.

     

    I would love for Nikon to only produce PRO level DSLRs and that be that. However,

    they are losing so many future customers as we speak this might not even be an

    option soon. Brand loyality runs deep. Anyone who has a marketing or advertising

    background realizes that its 10 times harder to convince people to switch from a

    brand they are used to, then to be the first brand they have ever used of a product.

     

    I hope Nikon has 5 new digital cameras sitting on the shelf, just waiting to drop them

    all and stun the competition. Hmm.. i dont see that happening anytime soon.

     

    Obviously Nikon made some poor decisions when hiring R&D, Marketing, and brand

    managers.

     

    So what does this all mean? Well, I still shoot 95% film, own a D1H, S2, F5, F2 and I'm

    not going anywhere soon. But when the time comes that it's just not feasible to

    shoot film and survive in the day-to-day professional sector, I will switch to the

    company who is the most committed to digital technology. Yeah, the D2H seems

    great, but the technology is a full year behind canon. Sorry this is so long.

     

    I hope nikon can hold on. But it all begins on the consumer level and works up the

    tree of experience. Get em fresh or not at all.

  11. Flipped up tab version? i missed that update. Hmm.. Hopefully that is the standard

    and they will replace it without asking. My return ring happend to fall victim to a

    bottle of champange during an awards ceremony. sugar+mechanics= death. I quite

    enjoy the F2, and look forward to having an excuse to use it more.

  12. My experience with the N90s vs F4s AF was limited to the 20-35 2.8D, 35-70 2.8D, &

    80-200 2.8D. Personally, I found the AF of the F4s to be more accurate and

    snappier, just my observations, not a science.... Honestly though, 99% of my

    photographs are shot fully manually, including focusing. I do however miss the

    matrix metering with my AI lenses from the F4. The build quality of the N90s left alot

    to be desired for me. I'm hard on my equipment, and the N90 just didnt take it well,

    cracked!!

     

    Also, I dont think anyone has mentioned interchangeable finders. None of the N90s,

    and a few to choose from with the F4. As well as a few different configurations F4,

    F4s, F4e with battery packs...

     

    If this is your first step in AF, I think you will be happy with the N90s. Look at it this

    way, if you find a nice N90s for a good price, you can always turn it over for what you

    have in it if unhappy.

     

    After watching the prices fall drastically over the past six months, I'm going to go out

    on a limb here and say the N90s isn't going to drop much more within the next year

    or so.

  13. Many have spoken about the N90/N90s

     

    My personal take... I have a few issues with the build first of all. i

    find the camera very uncomfortable to hold for long periods of

    time. The rubber used for the grip also became very sticky after

    years of use. Also, the peeling issue on the back film door... I

    know, this is purely cosmetic, but when designing a professional

    camera, this shouldnt have slipped through testing. I didnt pay

    hundreds of dollars to have the paint start chipping off. Kind of

    like buying a brand new car and they hood fading after a year.

    Not acceptable.

     

    Perfomance- Well..Nikon nailed it once again, as they have with

    many before. AF speed is decent, but pretty slow compared to

    F100 or even F4 in my opinion, still better than most cameras

    from this era. I also had issues with the shutter speed selection

    dial, it just didnt seem to fit the design, perhaps they found a box

    of clock radio knobs and said, what the hell we'll give these a try.

    I did enjoy the quiet shutter and advance.

     

    This all being said, I would say the N90s is a great choice for

    stepping up gear. $450 seems a bit too steep unless the

    camera is mint... Throw out, donate, or sell the 35-80, and pick

    up something worth shooting with. I.e. the 50 1.8 or 1.4, 28-105

    3.5-4.5, 35-70 2.8, or 24-85 2.8-4. etc etc..

     

    Or consider this... F4's are flying out the door on E-Bay for next to

    nothing. The F4 has a far superior build and I found it to be a

    more enjoyable machine. Generally you can pick up a nice F4

    for $500 or so. A better choice that will out preform the N90 on

    most every level.

     

    Find a camera that not only functional, but you enjoy using. I

    found one of the two in the N90, and no longer use it because of

    the other.

  14. Thanks everyone for the responses....It's going back to Nikon

    first thing tomorrow, and hopefully will be repaired right the first

    time.

     

    It's tough sending your child out in the mail, to a destination

    where technicians will pick and probe at her, and I wait in

    anticipation for her glorious return.

     

    I was thinking about this today... I spend more time with my F5

    then any person in my life. I didnt realize how much of an

    extension of myself this piece of equipment has become, until I

    have to send it away for a month or so.

     

    Thanks again for all the reponses.

  15. Okay... after a few years of hard use, my darling F5 is ready to go

    into the repair shop. The meter has somehow uncalibrated to

    vary +1 to +1 1/2 stop on every exposure, and the aperture return

    ring is toast. Nikon USA recently quoted me around $300 to fix

    everything up.

     

    Seems like a fair price to pay to get my darling back into

    commission. But, I need to find a repair center with the fastest

    turn around time as possible. There is a local repair center in

    central florida which is not only less expensive, but can turn

    around the camera quicker. Is the repair completed to the

    standards that Nikon USA would use?

     

    Is it worth paying the premium price to send my camera directly

    to Nikon USA? I've had a dropped 80-200 2.8 repaired by Nikon,

    and the repair bill was nearly the cost of the lens. But... It was

    fixed right the first time and I havent had a problem since.

     

    Shooting mainly sports, I need the camera back asap. I have a

    D1H to hold me over and an F2. Who do you trust with repairs? I

    would appreciate your input.

  16. Everyone has pretty muched summed up the differences in features between the two

    bodies.

     

    There are die hard loyalists to both the F2 and F3hp. The two are fairly comprable in

    price depending on which versions you look at.

     

    My self, I shoot mainly sports, so I use an F5. For the times I do not need a high fps

    rate, I pick up my F2 and head out the door.

     

    The F2 is a terrific choice, but it is heftier than the F3. I use a handheld held for most

    exposures, therefore I do not have issues with the accuracy of the DP-1.

     

    If you have a decent budget I would purchase both cameras for a trial period of a

    month or so. Alternate shooting for a month between an F2 and F3, and see which

    fits your needs best, and which body you instictively grab out of the bag.

     

    F2's and F3's are going for great prices right now on Eb*y. I recently picked up a

    second F2 in mint condition for $125 on a buy it now there. If you are patient, the

    deals will come.

  17. Roberto,

    The main thing to look at is the shutter in the F5. Yes, these are very durable

    cameras, blah blah blah, but just because something is in mint shape doesn't

    mean it was hardly used. (it could have been a studio camera that never saw

    the light of day or rested upon anything but a Gitzo head). Look at the shutter

    and see if there is any apparent wear. The wear will look like slight rub marks

    from the shutter going through its cycles. It takes about 30,000 cycles for this

    wear to start to start to wear off the coating on the shutter blades, and should

    be visible if the camera was used heavily. Personally, I would't pay more than

    $1100 for a used F5 in mint condition. There is a popular auction site where

    the F5 sells from $800-$1200 in mint condition everyday. If you are patient

    and buy from a good seller, you shouldn't have to pay camera store prices. I

    lucked out on my F5. I got it as a package deal (sold the lenses it came with

    instantly) and ended up only paying $600 for an Exc+ F5. Also, make sure

    the rubber is not loose at any point of the body. Yes it's easy to fix, but it's still

    a big pain. Also, send the camera to nikon if you have the time, just to have

    them check it out. I sent mine in and they said it had been fired about 50,000

    times. I have since added another 20,000 exposures in the past year. Don't

    rush into this decision... Just think of how long you've already waited... a few

    more weeks isn't going to hurt.

  18. Speaking of the Metal foot on the SB 80, I have broken four, YES 4, hotshoes

    off the multiple SB28's. Doesn't seem like a big deal right? Well at $70 for

    each replacement it is. Spend the extra money now and get something that

    will last for a long time. Don't buy old technology if newer is close in price.

  19. I think you are in the same boat as I was a few years back. New?, Used?

    Gray? Used Gray? Blah... So much to think about and consider. I bought an

    excellent condition used grey market F5 on E-ba-y for $800 (including an

    85mm f1.8 AF Nikkor) yes, $800, but those deals are few and far between. I

    had the camera checked by a service tech and everything is fine. He said the

    camera has had about 30,000 exposures since new. Two years later, and

    thousands of rolls, it's still going strong. I also purchased a brand new Grey

    Market F5 from a reputable seller on e-ba-y, and it serves as my back up.

    Again, no problems thus far. You save so much money when you buy used,

    even if you do have to send the camera in for repair down the road, you saved

    quite a bit initially. think about it, and check around!

  20. of course an adaptor would change the LTF ratio.. duh.., but what if it was sort of like a teleconverter, say a 1.5x? So, your wide lenses would be as wide, but that 200mm G lens would become a 300mm F mount lens. I know this is silly... but so is everything else we talk about here, and take so seriously... just a though.
  21. I'm 100% behind you on your position, but what about this.... What if Nikon did

    continue to make G lenses and it became the main mount they produced? It

    would not be very difficult at all for them also to produce an adaptor(sort of like

    a TC) with electronic contacts on one side, and an manual ring on the the

    mounting side an F mount The adaptor could be used on any G lens and

    would be interchangeable between all focal lengths. Throw it on the lens,

    mount it to an F3, and use the damn thing. Could it be possible?

    Probably...Hmmm.. I would buy it, and G lenses.

  22. My advice here would be to wait and see what new features the N75 has to

    offer. If there is nothing truly earth-crushing go with the cheaper N65. DO

    NOT BUY THE G LENS. DO NOT BUY THE G LENS. DO NOT BUY THE G

    LENS. Well you know what I think of it then. I use Pro Nikon gear exclusively

    but, the 70-210 F4 will be a MUCH better choice. Even Better than than 70-

    210 is the 70-300 ED AF D, which can be found used for $200 or so.

    Remember to be patient with purchasing camera equipment, as you are

    going to be stuck with it for a very long time. The 70-300 ED will be a much

    better choice than the others mentioned, and ultimately the lenses are more

    important than any body you put them in front of.

  23. Well... hmmm.. You said that you owned both AF and MF Nikkors right? If you

    plan on going the used route, and not purchasing AFS or VR lenses buy the

    F4. You will lose the Matrix Metering your are paying for on an F5_F100 with

    manual focus lenses. I still use some MF lenses, and see no need to update

    to similiar AF versions. Do you MF mostly or use AF extensively? The F5

    _F100 will have far better focus, but it doesn't matter if you focus manually (I

    always do) anyway. The F4 is a hell of a camera, as is the F5 and F100.

    Don't worry about parts either because there is a supply that will last another

    20 years (look at how many F4's are being sold in Mint condition). I use F5s'

    but had F4s' first. The only reason I switched was for FPS, Comfort with big

    Glass, and command dials. I absolutely HATE the rewind butttons on the

    F100, and find the F5's MUCH better. Go to the camera store and hold both.

    A mint F5 is only going for a few hundred more. you find your way!

  24. No the Sunpak 555 does not change ISO setting because the camera tells it

    to do so! They don't have that sophisticated of a relationship...

    Here is what you need:

    The Ext-11 connecting cord, and the Nikon AF TTL module(the more

    expensive on with focus assistance_trust me_). But, you are going to have to

    change the film speed on the flash each time you change film speed on your

    camera. I never use Auto anything on the 555's, and use a hand-held flash

    meter. It really isn't hard to get into a routine of changing the ISO on the flash,

    just make it a habit to check the setting each time you load a new roll of film. I

    have tried the TTL and AUTO settings, and they do a pretty good job most of

    the time. If you are looking for a handle mount with GREAT auto and TTL

    features check out the Quantum Q-flash T2. Talk about precision (and price!).

    Oh well...

    I use Nikon F5's for my professional needs in conjuction with four Sunpak

    555's (whew!), powered by Quantum turbo batteries and firing with a pocket

    wizard triggering system. For the things I shoot (music concerts, sports, news)

    I need flashes that are durable, put out a high quality of light, and are cheap,

    as i have to replace at least one broken flash each year. You can't go wrong

    for $170 flashes. The Ext-11 and module should run from $80-$140 for both...

    Check Sleeze_E_BAY! Have fun!

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