austin_calhoon
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Posts posted by austin_calhoon
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having used both extensively...I reccomend the SB-80. First, you have the metal foot
on the 80dx. Over the course of two years I broke three SB-28 plastic feet.
Second, the 80dx has an adaptor down to 14mm of coverage. I use 14 & 16 quite a
bit so this coverage is apreciated.
Third, the SB-80dx has a built in optical slave. This means you can fire it as a slave
using another flash unit. I constantly use this feature.
Forth, the prices of the flashes are pretty close. I purchased my sb-80 from a SI
photog for $200. Go figure.
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I see... I can say this... There are no where near the quantity of G leneses as there is
Ais, Ai,
and AF-AFD. I wouldnt make a decision based on a 70-200 G. You can always sell it
and put it towards gear.
The N90 would proably fit you well.. Only you will be able to determine this.
If you are looking to spend $500 or less, I would still reccomend the F4. The N80 is
a fantastic camera, dont get me wrong, but if you are on a student budget (as I'm
about to be on again!) then go with something compatible with a less expensive Ai or
AiS lenses.
Here's my deal... I shoot with an F5 and F2. I have a mix of Ais, Ai, AF, AFD, and AFS
lenses. I just sold the F2, and I'm buying a D2H when realeased. The D2H is going to
be the primary PJ camera from nikon, and it excepts and meters Ai and AiS glass.
Seeing that Nikon is providing Digital support for older leneses on some fronts, I
would stick with a film camera that will do the same. As it's been said, many of the Ai
and AiS lenses are actually better in many respects then their AF replacements. Just a
thought...
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Hi Matthew,
First, you say that compatibility is your main concern, right? Well, if this being the
main reason you are deciding to upgrade, think about this...
By the time you can afford the lense that are not compatible with the FM-10, you
most likely will not use the camera anymore and have funds to purchase a higher end
body.
And just how many G lenses are out there worth purchasing right now? Only a
handful, and you will be paying premium prices. I know the devout following of
cameras like the N90, F4, and such (neither have full compatibility with G lenses), and
the lifetime users of these cameras are not concerned about trading in.
My advice to you.... Purchase a solid camera to help you further your education. A
camera with a better metering system, more solid construction, and the ability to AF
lenses. So you want it to work with AI and AiS huh? How about an F4? Arguably the
best Nikon ever made... and it will fit what you've described well... Flexible, solid, and
pretty inexpensive for what you're getting...
I would skip the N80 if you already have Ais or Ai lenses and plan on purchasing more
of them. The N90 is a great choice and recently have made a STEEP decline in price
on that one big auction site. I've seen Excellent+ going for $300 or so.
If you have the cash, $400-$500 for a good condition one, buy a used F4
combination (F4, F4s, F4E) and realize that you've made a solid investment should
you choose to sell the camera down the line. The F4 is what dreams are made of, and
will be compatible with almost all Nikkors.
My vote for the F4 and keep all you AiS or Ai, buy a few older AF, then Add some
AFD's. I know someone is going to ring in about the great N90s, which is also a fine
camera. Just a thought.
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I can see both sides of the coin here... First I am a photographer, second I have been
behind the sales counter at your local camera stores...
The reason employees push certain crap cameras harder than something they
obviously know is better, money. The retailers gey kickbacks on certain models from
the manfacturer, which are then passed partially on to the salesman who sells them.
I worked at a Ritz camera center, notorious for asshole sales people, and this is why...
They pay people about $6 an hour to deal with the most retarded people on the face
of the planet. After 8 hours a day, for months on end, people start to get to you...like
you wouldnt believe. So, if someone who is obviously a yahoo walked in, wasted my
time and telling me all their stories and problems, and then wanted a camera...Well,
they are going to buy the camera that I make a commission off of. $15-$25 for one
sale vs. a straight $6/hr? You do the math.
Also, realize that many times it's not you they are being an asshole to... It's the
umpteen million people before you that has wasted their time. I would venture to say
that for every photographer I talked to who had any knowledge of what they were
doing, I talked to 99 who didnt and wanted ME to explain it for them.
Alas, I couldnt handle retail sales... And I never quite understood why I would get
$200 paychecks, and $400 kickback checks that didnt come from my employer.
I've also had the local camera stores be dickheads to me...but I understand why...and
they generally shut up when I run more equipment & photography knowledge around
them in one minute, then they could in a week. Order online, and skip the
middlemen.
just a thought...
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Hi Alan,
I guess my first question would be what quality expectations you have for a zoom in
this range?
I had the Tamron 24-135 for about one year. It was a great "all" purpose lens, and I
bought it after reading good reviews of it, and the photog I was working with had
one. Shortly there after I started to notice flaws that bugged me. First, the focus ring
in my sample became increasing looser month by month (the other sample I tried had
the same problem). After a while manual focusing was extremely loose and
annoying.
Also, this lens is pretty soft with fall off at 24mm and soft 135. Acceptable at f5.6 at
24mm, and decent at f8 135mm. The hood is a cool design, but make sure you turn
it all the way on or prepare for vignettes! It's all in the eye of the beholder I guess.
I ended up selling the tamron and bought a nikkor's: 35-70 2.8D & 20-35 2.8D in it's
place. If you are shooting digital, the crop factor will elimate the soft corners of the
Tamron. ( I used it mainly on the wide end.)
I used the 24-120 VR a bit, and while it's not a zoom that I need, it definitely
outperforms the Tamron. After bad experiences with quality control of third party
lenses, I now stick to Nikkors only. The last thing I want to worry about is my
equipment. just a thought.
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I had a similar situation happen with exploding batteries and one of my Sunpak 555
handle mount flashes. I was using Varta Photo batteries, and sent a reciept of sale for
the Supak, the flash unit, as well as the defective batteries to Varta. They quickly
determined the flash wasnt fixable, and sent me a check for the full retail price of the
Sunpak. They even sent back the broken flash unit, which I sold for parts.
I would say that it might not be worth paying to fix your 8008. I would sell it for
parts on E-Bay, and put the proceeds towards a functional camera body.
I learned my lesson, and learned to use only batteries from reputable manufacturers,
I strongly reccomend Varta Photo Batteries if you use Alkalines.
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The 35-70 2.8D is my standard "everyday" lens. I have found the results to be
fantastic. tack sharp, and with excellent contrast. While some comlain of the limited
zoom range, I have found myself hardly craving a wider "everyday" focal length. $600
seems a little steep, as these lenses are available in mint condition for $350-$450. I
bought mine in mint condition for $350, and after two years have had no problems. I
would not reccomend the tamron 28-105 2.8. I used it for a couple of weeks and
sold it. The sigma lenses are very good, but tend to not hold there value very well,
and seem to vary in quality from sample to sample. Also, the tokina 28-80 2.8 ATX
has mixed reviews, and seems to vary in quality from sample to sample.
You cant go wrong with the 35-70 2.8.
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Here is something to think about... and I mean really think..
What feature is most important with your next lens purchase?
Portraits? I've found the 85 to be a great lens, but awfully limiting
for tight head shots.
The first thing I would tell you is to steer clear from sigma
consumer zooms. Absolute crap. If you are to purchase a
70-300, the Nikon ED version is very nice and within your budget.
My reccomendation would be to pick up a user 80-200 2.8 and
shoot away. I've found anywhere from $275-$400 is user
condition. Well within your budget. Call KEH, and B&H, and
Adorama, and Wolf Used... They have tons of stuff they never list
on the web, and back it up with warranties.
There are somethings I'll never understand... but I figured this
out long ago... There is always legal methods for raising camera
funds!
Once I decided that being a photographer was the only
occupation I could love doing for the rest of my life, I managed to
fill my bag full of pro equipment, in two years, all out of my
pocket, and without handouts from anyone.
Start looking around your house... Do you really need this or
that? You know? I went on huge E_bay runs, cleaning house
and raising thousands of dollars for gear. You would be amazed
at what people will buy.
Believe me though, even if you manage to raise funds, it's
almost impossible to make a decision how to spend it.
I keep a seperate camera fund. Searching local papers, auction
houses, and shops is a great way to find bargins that you can
turn over for a profit. It can be done. I'm doing it right now. Good
luck.
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Trickle down branding? Perhaps... but take the average consumer... I have a Zenith
TV, a Panasonic VCR, a Apple computer, A brandless microwave, and a Sony video
camera. Trickle down branding isnt the obstacle. Nikon believing they had won the
race in the first mile is most likely the reason they are so far behind now. You know,
the whole tortoise and the haire??
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Ohhh no... Nikon is is BIG trouble unless they produce something quick. Canon has
managed to churn out two mid level DSLR's to nikon's zero. Of course, these cameras
are aimed at ams, but what do you think is the biggest segment of camera
manufacturer's maket? Hmm... Ams.
So what does this all mean and how does it relate to those of us who could care less
what the newest camera has come out? Well... as Nikon falls further and further
behind in Digital Technology, profits are going to decrease, heads are going to roll
from the top, and quality is going to be compromised. Not to mention Nikon's prices
are likely to remain higher in the retail market due to the increase in R&D spending
needed to catch up.
I would love for Nikon to only produce PRO level DSLRs and that be that. However,
they are losing so many future customers as we speak this might not even be an
option soon. Brand loyality runs deep. Anyone who has a marketing or advertising
background realizes that its 10 times harder to convince people to switch from a
brand they are used to, then to be the first brand they have ever used of a product.
I hope Nikon has 5 new digital cameras sitting on the shelf, just waiting to drop them
all and stun the competition. Hmm.. i dont see that happening anytime soon.
Obviously Nikon made some poor decisions when hiring R&D, Marketing, and brand
managers.
So what does this all mean? Well, I still shoot 95% film, own a D1H, S2, F5, F2 and I'm
not going anywhere soon. But when the time comes that it's just not feasible to
shoot film and survive in the day-to-day professional sector, I will switch to the
company who is the most committed to digital technology. Yeah, the D2H seems
great, but the technology is a full year behind canon. Sorry this is so long.
I hope nikon can hold on. But it all begins on the consumer level and works up the
tree of experience. Get em fresh or not at all.
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Flipped up tab version? i missed that update. Hmm.. Hopefully that is the standard
and they will replace it without asking. My return ring happend to fall victim to a
bottle of champange during an awards ceremony. sugar+mechanics= death. I quite
enjoy the F2, and look forward to having an excuse to use it more.
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My experience with the N90s vs F4s AF was limited to the 20-35 2.8D, 35-70 2.8D, &
80-200 2.8D. Personally, I found the AF of the F4s to be more accurate and
snappier, just my observations, not a science.... Honestly though, 99% of my
photographs are shot fully manually, including focusing. I do however miss the
matrix metering with my AI lenses from the F4. The build quality of the N90s left alot
to be desired for me. I'm hard on my equipment, and the N90 just didnt take it well,
cracked!!
Also, I dont think anyone has mentioned interchangeable finders. None of the N90s,
and a few to choose from with the F4. As well as a few different configurations F4,
F4s, F4e with battery packs...
If this is your first step in AF, I think you will be happy with the N90s. Look at it this
way, if you find a nice N90s for a good price, you can always turn it over for what you
have in it if unhappy.
After watching the prices fall drastically over the past six months, I'm going to go out
on a limb here and say the N90s isn't going to drop much more within the next year
or so.
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Many have spoken about the N90/N90s
My personal take... I have a few issues with the build first of all. i
find the camera very uncomfortable to hold for long periods of
time. The rubber used for the grip also became very sticky after
years of use. Also, the peeling issue on the back film door... I
know, this is purely cosmetic, but when designing a professional
camera, this shouldnt have slipped through testing. I didnt pay
hundreds of dollars to have the paint start chipping off. Kind of
like buying a brand new car and they hood fading after a year.
Not acceptable.
Perfomance- Well..Nikon nailed it once again, as they have with
many before. AF speed is decent, but pretty slow compared to
F100 or even F4 in my opinion, still better than most cameras
from this era. I also had issues with the shutter speed selection
dial, it just didnt seem to fit the design, perhaps they found a box
of clock radio knobs and said, what the hell we'll give these a try.
I did enjoy the quiet shutter and advance.
This all being said, I would say the N90s is a great choice for
stepping up gear. $450 seems a bit too steep unless the
camera is mint... Throw out, donate, or sell the 35-80, and pick
up something worth shooting with. I.e. the 50 1.8 or 1.4, 28-105
3.5-4.5, 35-70 2.8, or 24-85 2.8-4. etc etc..
Or consider this... F4's are flying out the door on E-Bay for next to
nothing. The F4 has a far superior build and I found it to be a
more enjoyable machine. Generally you can pick up a nice F4
for $500 or so. A better choice that will out preform the N90 on
most every level.
Find a camera that not only functional, but you enjoy using. I
found one of the two in the N90, and no longer use it because of
the other.
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Thanks everyone for the responses....It's going back to Nikon
first thing tomorrow, and hopefully will be repaired right the first
time.
It's tough sending your child out in the mail, to a destination
where technicians will pick and probe at her, and I wait in
anticipation for her glorious return.
I was thinking about this today... I spend more time with my F5
then any person in my life. I didnt realize how much of an
extension of myself this piece of equipment has become, until I
have to send it away for a month or so.
Thanks again for all the reponses.
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Okay... after a few years of hard use, my darling F5 is ready to go
into the repair shop. The meter has somehow uncalibrated to
vary +1 to +1 1/2 stop on every exposure, and the aperture return
ring is toast. Nikon USA recently quoted me around $300 to fix
everything up.
Seems like a fair price to pay to get my darling back into
commission. But, I need to find a repair center with the fastest
turn around time as possible. There is a local repair center in
central florida which is not only less expensive, but can turn
around the camera quicker. Is the repair completed to the
standards that Nikon USA would use?
Is it worth paying the premium price to send my camera directly
to Nikon USA? I've had a dropped 80-200 2.8 repaired by Nikon,
and the repair bill was nearly the cost of the lens. But... It was
fixed right the first time and I havent had a problem since.
Shooting mainly sports, I need the camera back asap. I have a
D1H to hold me over and an F2. Who do you trust with repairs? I
would appreciate your input.
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Everyone has pretty muched summed up the differences in features between the two
bodies.
There are die hard loyalists to both the F2 and F3hp. The two are fairly comprable in
price depending on which versions you look at.
My self, I shoot mainly sports, so I use an F5. For the times I do not need a high fps
rate, I pick up my F2 and head out the door.
The F2 is a terrific choice, but it is heftier than the F3. I use a handheld held for most
exposures, therefore I do not have issues with the accuracy of the DP-1.
If you have a decent budget I would purchase both cameras for a trial period of a
month or so. Alternate shooting for a month between an F2 and F3, and see which
fits your needs best, and which body you instictively grab out of the bag.
F2's and F3's are going for great prices right now on Eb*y. I recently picked up a
second F2 in mint condition for $125 on a buy it now there. If you are patient, the
deals will come.
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Roberto,
The main thing to look at is the shutter in the F5. Yes, these are very durable
cameras, blah blah blah, but just because something is in mint shape doesn't
mean it was hardly used. (it could have been a studio camera that never saw
the light of day or rested upon anything but a Gitzo head). Look at the shutter
and see if there is any apparent wear. The wear will look like slight rub marks
from the shutter going through its cycles. It takes about 30,000 cycles for this
wear to start to start to wear off the coating on the shutter blades, and should
be visible if the camera was used heavily. Personally, I would't pay more than
$1100 for a used F5 in mint condition. There is a popular auction site where
the F5 sells from $800-$1200 in mint condition everyday. If you are patient
and buy from a good seller, you shouldn't have to pay camera store prices. I
lucked out on my F5. I got it as a package deal (sold the lenses it came with
instantly) and ended up only paying $600 for an Exc+ F5. Also, make sure
the rubber is not loose at any point of the body. Yes it's easy to fix, but it's still
a big pain. Also, send the camera to nikon if you have the time, just to have
them check it out. I sent mine in and they said it had been fired about 50,000
times. I have since added another 20,000 exposures in the past year. Don't
rush into this decision... Just think of how long you've already waited... a few
more weeks isn't going to hurt.
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Speaking of the Metal foot on the SB 80, I have broken four, YES 4, hotshoes
off the multiple SB28's. Doesn't seem like a big deal right? Well at $70 for
each replacement it is. Spend the extra money now and get something that
will last for a long time. Don't buy old technology if newer is close in price.
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I think you are in the same boat as I was a few years back. New?, Used?
Gray? Used Gray? Blah... So much to think about and consider. I bought an
excellent condition used grey market F5 on E-ba-y for $800 (including an
85mm f1.8 AF Nikkor) yes, $800, but those deals are few and far between. I
had the camera checked by a service tech and everything is fine. He said the
camera has had about 30,000 exposures since new. Two years later, and
thousands of rolls, it's still going strong. I also purchased a brand new Grey
Market F5 from a reputable seller on e-ba-y, and it serves as my back up.
Again, no problems thus far. You save so much money when you buy used,
even if you do have to send the camera in for repair down the road, you saved
quite a bit initially. think about it, and check around!
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of course an adaptor would change the LTF ratio.. duh.., but what if it was sort of like a teleconverter, say a 1.5x? So, your wide lenses would be as wide, but that 200mm G lens would become a 300mm F mount lens. I know this is silly... but so is everything else we talk about here, and take so seriously... just a though.
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I'm 100% behind you on your position, but what about this.... What if Nikon did
continue to make G lenses and it became the main mount they produced? It
would not be very difficult at all for them also to produce an adaptor(sort of like
a TC) with electronic contacts on one side, and an manual ring on the the
mounting side an F mount The adaptor could be used on any G lens and
would be interchangeable between all focal lengths. Throw it on the lens,
mount it to an F3, and use the damn thing. Could it be possible?
Probably...Hmmm.. I would buy it, and G lenses.
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My advice here would be to wait and see what new features the N75 has to
offer. If there is nothing truly earth-crushing go with the cheaper N65. DO
NOT BUY THE G LENS. DO NOT BUY THE G LENS. DO NOT BUY THE G
LENS. Well you know what I think of it then. I use Pro Nikon gear exclusively
but, the 70-210 F4 will be a MUCH better choice. Even Better than than 70-
210 is the 70-300 ED AF D, which can be found used for $200 or so.
Remember to be patient with purchasing camera equipment, as you are
going to be stuck with it for a very long time. The 70-300 ED will be a much
better choice than the others mentioned, and ultimately the lenses are more
important than any body you put them in front of.
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Well... hmmm.. You said that you owned both AF and MF Nikkors right? If you
plan on going the used route, and not purchasing AFS or VR lenses buy the
F4. You will lose the Matrix Metering your are paying for on an F5_F100 with
manual focus lenses. I still use some MF lenses, and see no need to update
to similiar AF versions. Do you MF mostly or use AF extensively? The F5
_F100 will have far better focus, but it doesn't matter if you focus manually (I
always do) anyway. The F4 is a hell of a camera, as is the F5 and F100.
Don't worry about parts either because there is a supply that will last another
20 years (look at how many F4's are being sold in Mint condition). I use F5s'
but had F4s' first. The only reason I switched was for FPS, Comfort with big
Glass, and command dials. I absolutely HATE the rewind butttons on the
F100, and find the F5's MUCH better. Go to the camera store and hold both.
A mint F5 is only going for a few hundred more. you find your way!
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No the Sunpak 555 does not change ISO setting because the camera tells it
to do so! They don't have that sophisticated of a relationship...
Here is what you need:
The Ext-11 connecting cord, and the Nikon AF TTL module(the more
expensive on with focus assistance_trust me_). But, you are going to have to
change the film speed on the flash each time you change film speed on your
camera. I never use Auto anything on the 555's, and use a hand-held flash
meter. It really isn't hard to get into a routine of changing the ISO on the flash,
just make it a habit to check the setting each time you load a new roll of film. I
have tried the TTL and AUTO settings, and they do a pretty good job most of
the time. If you are looking for a handle mount with GREAT auto and TTL
features check out the Quantum Q-flash T2. Talk about precision (and price!).
Oh well...
I use Nikon F5's for my professional needs in conjuction with four Sunpak
555's (whew!), powered by Quantum turbo batteries and firing with a pocket
wizard triggering system. For the things I shoot (music concerts, sports, news)
I need flashes that are durable, put out a high quality of light, and are cheap,
as i have to replace at least one broken flash each year. You can't go wrong
for $170 flashes. The Ext-11 and module should run from $80-$140 for both...
Check Sleeze_E_BAY! Have fun!
Contax 645 Battery Woes
in Medium Format
Posted
You might try the Contax P-8D which holds four D cell batteries, has a belt clip and plugs
directly into the MP-1. This drastically improves battery life in the cold.
I have an extra one brand new in the box if interested.