kykr

B&H or Freestyle for me. Prices are a bit of a shock since the last roll of Tri-X that I bought before I got away from film was about $4-5, now at least $12. One way of handling that for me is using Kentmere at around $5, and there are a few other choices in that price range as well. Until I’m more experienced and consistent with my developing and printing results, I don’t see a need for anything else. But this is B&W, I’m not sure what else is out there for C41 these days.

So true. Thanks for the replies!

I don't have any experience in the desert, but night skies and an additional glass surface (as mentioned above) can cause problems with lens flare if there are light sources in the frame. Maybe that's not the case with what you're photographing, but the idea about sand in the mechanics of the lens and camera would make me wonder more than flare. Go for the filter and maybe a shower cap around the camera if that's a possibility. Grab one and throw it in your camera bag the next time you spend a night in a hotel.

I've been using Ilford DD-X (1:4) with Kentmere 400 as I get back into the world of film, but I didn't have a ton of experience with all of this years ago. I usually develop two rolls of 35mm in a stainless tank, and then throw out that batch of developer. But occasionally I'll shoot a roll of 120 or some other type of 35mm b&w. I have re-used the developer for a third roll of 35mm done right after the first two and everything worked fine. Right now I've got two rolls of Tri-X 35mm, one Foma 400 120 and an HP5+ 120, so I'll develop them in three batches in a two-reel tank. Can I use the same 1:4 batch of DD-X for all four rolls developed all in the same day (so storage times aren't relevant)? I have read about increasing development time 10% for additional rolls but I'm wondering if that's a myth or solid advice. I do have some old powder D-76 included with a box of darkroom stuff bought recently, so I'm wondering how this works for other developers too. Yes, I'm an admitted cheapskate...

Thanks for that - and clarifications from others too here. "By the math" I wondered if it might work but wasn't taking fog into account. I'm fairly new with darkroom work though I've been around film for years, and have ended up with a bit of old expired film. It sounds like +1 stop at exposure and develop normally is the typical method for those who have had good results. But I'm not going to use old film for anything important either.