Chris Autio
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Even though my $88 Sybersync brand trigger is charged (the transmitter…), it will not fire when I most need it. It quits signaling when I enter into new locations for a shoot. Sometimes it will start working if I pull out all connecting wires and turn off transmitter. I say “how ridiculous” but there must be reason it fires and a similar reason it doesn’t fire. I certainly pat myself on the back for always having a dependable sync cord.
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Developing fault with 120 film: what is this mark?
Chris Autio replied to rexmarriott's topic in Black & White Practice
One more afterthought, and this came from a colleague in the photo dept and student newspaper, was that remaining photo flo from previous photographers 1) overused Photoflo (all is needed is two - four drops per tank) and 2) did not wash tank thoroughly when done….leading to foamy developer next development. -
Developing fault with 120 film: what is this mark?
Chris Autio replied to rexmarriott's topic in Black & White Practice
I have always given film a water presoak. A professor suggested this after I encountered similar bubble marks. Don’t be surprised or worried by the purplish color that then comes from the soak. Another factor that may or may not allow for such foam markings to occur is how you spool your roll, whether the emulsion side of film is snug against your reel. After a knowledgeable post in this forum said to AVOID this also helped even out my development. -
Fantastic! Really like this idea of reutilizing a camera like this for a mural print. And having the wit to slip inside camera the filtering.
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- plastic panorama
- toy camera
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AJG, very good to know. Eyeing a Rodenstock 150 lens because my shutter on my Caltar 135 quit working on 1/4,1/2 and 1 sec. My recessed board on my 75 mm lens makes it very difficult to change shutter etc. I believe I can cut up 4.25” square plates for camera from masonite. (Which I have done for a fabulous ebay purchase of a 150 lens for my Beseler)
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Thank you. Here is what is listed for lensplate hole for #1,2,3 and 3s. 34.6 mm 41.6 mm 65 mm 64.1 mm
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Thank you. Here is what is listed for lensplate hole for #0, 1, 3 and 3s. 34.6 mm 41.6 mm 65 mm 64.1 mm So it does seem to correlate with lensplate hole. For my Toyo, I can only use #0
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What is copal? If it refers to diameter of lens plate hole, I have for my Toyo a 40mm as well as a wooden plate that gives it a 32 mm hole.
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content/ context
Chris Autio replied to chris_autio's topic in The History & Philosophy of Photography
I’ve included only a few of the 40 in exhibition. Q was correct in understanding the content/form post. Which is an age old question in art philosophy. Anyway, apart from the bantering that ensued, I think the body of work was successful ONLY in that each piece was successful and strong enough to hang. In making the work, I thought first of composition, then story, then value, then warmth or coolness when oil coloring. Often, I colored only 1/2 of work, allowing values within composition to reign.
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After a few mornings out in the field, this particular lens’ shutter speeds all failed. I will have to send it in to get repaired. Meanwhile I have been shooting with 75mm. Processing HP5
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IMG_2958.MOV
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Be sure to use distilled water when making the pyro. I really like pyro, and some enthusiasts use it exclusively.
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Chris Autio joined the community
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I have two loupes, 8x and 10x, neither of which focus on the light table or 4x5 screen. I have to hold them out about an inch from the surface. What's the deal?
