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"Beach & Jetty" (Best if viewed larger)


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Photoshop CS RAW ConversionClone to remove dust from sensor_F3W7728-S.CR2


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Landscape

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Thank you very much. Everything was done in camera. The only thing I used Ps for was converting the RAW image and for slight cloning to remove dust from sensor. The sun was setting to my right and if I had only waited would I have gotten a better display of yellow, orange, and red. But... My feet were soggy and it was 30 degrees out! LOL

 

Thanks again!

 

-Norman

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Nice composition and shutter speed. I like how the rocks lead your eye into the ocean, as does the water receding from the waves. Beautiful shot.
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Thank you very much.. I took quite a lot of shots that day and only liked one or two. This one grabbed me. I even trued converting it to B&W, but it didn't have the same impact.

 

Thanks again for your kind words.

 

-N

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Thank you for your comments and kind words. I am glad you like it. With regards to the darkening around the corners or vignetting. I didn't want to adjust it in RAW because I feel it helps draw your eye towards the center of the photo. Do you feel it is doing the opposite and distracting from the overall feel of the shot?

 

-N

 

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Beautiful. The outgoing wave curve in the forground is very pleasing. There even seems to be a curve in the surf. Well done.
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Thank you very much. I moved here back in december and have been coming home from work to shoot here from time to time. Can't wait for the summer or at least warmer weather where I can feel my hands. :)
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Please excuse me as my Spanish is not very good. I do appreciate your kind words and really like your photos, especially your work with landscapes.

 

-Norman

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I am new to this...but i love it!!

 

How do you get the "brushed look on the water? I know it is leaving the shutter open longer (i think) but how do you do this without overexposing the photo to nothing but white?

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Hi Jason,

 

First let me say thank you for taking the time to not only view, but comment on my photo, I appreciate it a great deal.

 

To address your question as to how I achieved a "brushed" or blurred effect in the water we first must take a look at the "details" tab under the image. Here I have taken the time and taken advantage of the custom fields afforded to us here on photo.net and have entered the important information with regards to how my images were captured. I do this for numerous reasons, but first and foremost so I can show others like yourself how I did it and how you can too.

 

Now to tackle the bigger question.. (How did I do this) How was I able to leave the lens open so long and not overexpose the photo to nothing but white? Keep in mind that when shooting everything is a compromise. If I extend (or slow) my shutter speed (in this case 0.8 Seconds) to allow the moving objects time to blur, I must in turn limit the volume of light entering the lens. Again in referring to this photo, I closed the aperture down to f/22 AND changed the ISO or film speed down to the slowest possible (in this case 50). If this were film I would have to use very slow film to achieve the same effect or employ neutral density filters to stop the light down enough to get the same end result with faster film.

 

Thanks to digital technology, we have the luxury of changing film speed on the fly to best suit our needs at any given moment. So, limiting the amount of light entering the lens and slowing the shutter speed was what worked!

 

Conversely if I wanted to stop or freeze action say for example a football player catching a pass in mid-air, I would have employ the exact opposite technique. I would need to speed up my shutter speed to first be fast enough to freeze the action, but also open up my aperture to allow as much light in as necessary to get the proper exposure.

 

These techniques also serve a bigger purpose; in closing down the lens aperture it not only allows less light to pass through to the film, but also deepens the Depth Of Field or DOF. In referring back to my photo above, notice how everything stationary is more or less in focus in both the foreground as well as the background? This is the direct result of a small aperture. However if I wanted to isolate my subject like in this photo, again I would need to employ the exact opposite technique. In opening up my aperture, it not only allows more light to enter the lens, but also shortens the DOF. This is helpful if the background is distracting or if you simply want to make your subject "pop" and have a greater impact. Ever wonder why the lenses sports shooters use are not only so long, but also big in diameter? This is to allow more light into the lens causing the lens to be referred to as a "fast" lens. Not because of it's ability to focus, but rather to allow more light in and thus allow the shooter to isolate their primary subject.

 

Anyway, I am rambling. I hope this helps.

 

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Norman, I don't think it detracts all that much and it may in some way do what you wanted. Thanks for the explaination. - Sean
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