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2468


sranga

Artist: II;
Exposure Date: 2013:08:13 11:47:04;
Copyright: II;
Make: Canon;
Model: Canon PowerShot SX50 HS;
Exposure Time: 1/250.0 seconds s;
FNumber: f/6.3;
ISOSpeedRatings: ISO 250;
ExposureBiasValue: 0
MeteringMode: Other;
Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode;
FocalLength: 25.065 mm mm;
Software: Digital Photo Professional;


From the category:

Flower

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Recommended Comments

Hi Ranga,

True colors are always best to develop with the lens and camera settings.

There are many variable to consider , but it starts with the internal settings on the camera.

I always shut off any program modes, and any enhancements offered in the camera setup. I like the imagery to be as the sensor first receives the information from the lens. With this baseline established, the characteristics of the image produced are easily compared to a known subject that you have nearby. You take the shot and look at color seen with your eye as it compares to that your camera furnishes as an image to your monitor. Often , the camera's rear preview screen is not adequate for such evaluations.

Colors often appear differently by the focal length settings used with your camera. If the light levels fall off or the image appears "flat", try using a fill flash to boost the response to the sensor. The lens design used for Point and Shoot cameras are not at the same quality level as those found in DSRL or mirror-less camera systems with interchangeable lens. However, they can be used for the smaller sensor to yield very acceptable results.

This is a good looking image as you first presented it, and I had accepted that this is what you first saw when composing the shot originally.

Best Regards my friend, Mike

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Mike

Thanks a lot for your detailed observations.

I have done test-bench type of shoots only with empty cartons and stuff like that for understanding color reproduction. Not much of flowers and nature stuff available for controlled testing. These shots were taken in a flower show, filing past the display along with the usual milling crowd. Only flower specimen readily available for controlled shooting is Nerium Indicum. From what I have tried, no camera (5D, 350D, SX50) seems to be able to catch the fantastic variations in shades of that flower.

I appreciate your sensitivity in understanding the constraints of the photographer, while judging and critiquing their productions. Of course, some constraints could very well be imagined ones and such comments help one to push the envelope!

 

Thanks again and regards!

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Hi Ranga,

There are two settings in Photoshop that I use when I do not get the proper image "out of the camera". First, if I am using HIGH JPEG , then I set my camera (any brand and model, as I have most of them ) to a neutral setting. The camera offers no "vivid", "landscape", no "sharpening", etc..

I also use Auto-White Balance unless I suspect that the camera is not setting the balance correctly, I use "Custom White Balance".  The "Custom White Balance " can be accomplished in many ways, but I use calibrated grey scale backgrounds and white reference backgrounds to preset those settings into my camera. Under direct Sunlight, a textured flat white card (not a glossy surface) should expose and yield pure white, with no one color cast present.

Then I use Auto Color or Auto Tone in Photoshop and quite often the color balance is spot on.

Now, when I use RAW images , then I have the choice to set the color balance "As Shot" or "Auto", and again, I have a high success rate again.

It is rare that I have to do any color adjustments beyond what I outlined above.

Last point, the exposure and ISO used play an important role in how well the color balance is. The use of ISO 200 is the best starting point for any camera today. I always under-expose just enough to avoid any color "wash-out". This is usually 1/2 to 1/2 stop.

Best Regards, Mike

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