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Varanasi, India


kenghor

Varanasi is the holiest city in India, built by the bank of the sacred Ganges River. The crescent waterfront is dominated by flights of steps called the ghats. Hindu pilgrims from all over India and the rest of the world come to perform the ritual of bathing in the river, cremation or simply waiting for death. It is believing that the river will wash away their sickness and sins and their souls will go to heaven. And when they die and cremated here, they will immediately attain enlightenment and be released from the cycle of birth and death. For the poor who cannot afford the wood, their corpses are dumped into the river.Non-stop cremation process, industrial and sewage waste have seriously polluting the river. Yet the locals refuse to accept the fact and claims that the water is clean and holy. Besides the bathing ritual, they use the river for common task like laundry, washing, fishing and even for consumption. Pictures of Varanasi always intrigue me with a mystical charm that prompted my visit. It seems that time has stood still and the place appears to look the same now as it was centuries ago. The golden light, exotic looking pilgrims, ancient buildings and small little boats that fade away into the misty distant. I wanted to travel back in time with my camera to photography this photogenic place so untouched by modernisation.I broke away from the tour group which I was travelling with and fly to Varanasi on my own. After travelling in Rajasthan and Kashmir with the tour group for more than a week, I was confident to venture out independently and deal with its notorious touts and con artists.I spent an afternoon walking along the bank of the river scouting for good viewpoints. I found an elevated spot on a flight of staircase to overlook the curve of the waterfront. I returned the next morning, waited for the light and shot a few frames before I noticed the red boat coming towards me. I immediately recomposed and waited for it to move into position and uncluster itself from the rest of the boats before managing to squeeze a single shot. Of the several rolls of film that I had shot, this is the single frame that really works. I have never expected it to work so well as the boat occupies only a small area in the whole frame. Yet the bright red colour really stands out distinctly and dominates the entire picture.Such shots of the waterfront is best captured in the early morning light while a misty morning fog hangs around the river. It becomes less spectacular in the evening without the fog. For evening shoot, it is better to take a boat to the opposite bank and to capture the setting sun.I continued taking pictures into the morning until I met 2 crooks near a burning ghats. They accused me of photographing the cremation process and tried to extort money from me. I walked with them to the police to resolve the issue but somehow they disappeared into the crowd just before the police post. I reported the incident and an officer was extremely helpful and offered his escort service. I ended up being 'extorted' by the police officer.Technical details: EOS 100, 70-200L at 100mm, 81B warm filter, f5.6, Sensia 100

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The use of the 81B filter has added a touch of warmth to the entire picture, while the small red boat seems to attract ones attention repeatedly to it. This picture could have been taken a 100 years back, and in this lies its beauty. Excellent!
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Absolutely beautiful photograph!!! I agree with a previous comment that it looks like a painting. But, for me what truly makes your photograph stand apart is the RED BOAT! Well done!
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This is a remarkable picture in that it catches the essence of the place without disturbing the sanctity of the rituals performed on the Ganges.

I do not yet have the courage to visit India, but this picture inspires me to move beyond the western comforts of Bali, Bangkok, Ankara, and Jerusalem. I am closing in on India and this picture gives me that courage.

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I was astonished the first time I saw this picture and I've looked at it many times since. My opinion hasn't changed - this is one of the best pictures on photo.net.
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Thank you for taking your time and placing this picture within the context. The explanation about picture makes such a difference, especially with that kind of photography. That's what we all should do here! BTW -- that's a great shot with or without the context!
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I love this photo. Technically excellent also. If this wasn't enough, the narrative is a great story. Thank you.
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If photo.net ever has a hall of fame this picture would be at the top. Words cannot convey the quality of this pic...the composition, technique, subject and interest is absolutely PERFECT.
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Thank you for such a nice painting. Your use of subdued colours has retained the rich antiquity of Banaras, while still portraying the growth and life. Thank you very much. Which ghat did you take this from? Looks to me you were way past the burning ghats, almost under the railway bridge.

(PS: The Kalaa Bhavan at BHU would probably want to keep a copy of your picture at the museum)

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Of all the outstanding images I have seen on photo.net, I think this is the one that has most often comes to mind since first seeing it over a year ago. I don't think I ever read your comments closely until tonight. I agree that the red boat "makes" the photo in some way, although I've had a hard time figuring out why. Compositionally, it obviously goes a long way to "balance" the photo, since the other most prominent point of interest seems to be the cluster of buildings in the top right corner. But I've known that there was more to it, and I think I just figured it out. It didn't "click" until I forced myself to understand what draws me to this photo: that it *isn't* just the (very satisfying) quantity of *detail*, but the juxtaposition of detail against a very "atmospheric" setting. And then it clicked: the red boat is *the* detail of details in the photo, and so serves as a kind of marker for that whole dimension of the photo.

 

I realize that may all sound a little pretentious, but forcing myself to finally understand it has helped me understand more clearly what I've been trying to do myself lately, photographically, and I think it gives me something new to aim for in my work. Thanks for that.

 

Best,

 

John

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The quality of the light would make this a great shot without the boat, but it adds the extra dimension to lift it far above the ordinary. Well done.
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Greetings Wee,

Wonderful photo. Your comments about Indians are absolutly right. Penny wise pound foolish is how I describe my countrymen. However "Bastards" will be a more leconic description.

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Thanks for showing the picture to all of us. Many thanks for taking the time to give us this wonderful and detailed story on the background of the place and the shooting process. Both make this photograph a wonderful lesson on travel photography, composition, planning and patience
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I first thought your image was a bit pale but the higher contrast in the front makes it a very beautiful en interesting picture.
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