Jump to content

Common Darter


ianward

Exposure Date: 2011:08:14 12:07:59;
Make: Canon;
Model: Canon EOS 5D Mark II;
Exposure Time: 1/100.0 seconds s;
FNumber: f/8.0;
ISOSpeedRatings: ISO 200;
ExposureProgram: Other;
ExposureBiasValue: 0
MeteringMode: Other;
Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode;
FocalLength: 180.0 mm mm;
Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows;


From the category:

Nature

· 201,272 images
  • 201,272 images
  • 631,986 image comments


Recommended Comments

Hi Ian,

A head on shot at F/8 ?

The 180 is capable of so much more.

Still a nice perspective and details around the head (at best focus)

Regards,  Mike

Link to comment

How would you suggest that I should have taken this image? For me it is sharp in all the right places and is quite artistic.

Link to comment

The DOF works quite nicely in this shot.  The closer set of wings are sharp while the back set are not, giving a nice sense of depth.  IMO F8 seems to have been the right choice.  I also like how the colors in the dragonfly and the plant seem to match.  Beautiful capture.

Link to comment

Hi Ian,

I do not comment or make any suggestions about the artistic value that an image has, as this is strictly a personal preference.

I very much enjoy and appreciate images that are artistic , too. 

Being an expert on optics, lens and camera systems for many years , I do comment on the way a lens is used in developing its full potential that it was originally designed to do. In my wide range of imaging applications, the proper choice and use of the lens and the image quality that they yield are often the top priority.

You like to use F/8 to F/16 with the 180mm macro lens. That is your choice, but technically it clearly falls short of developing the full potential of the design.

There are times where stopping down a lens is required, but there are also  many ways to reduce the amount of aperture stop required to get the same image , too.

I can appreciate the use of a tripod as a consistent method of setting up a camera/lens to image from one perspective, use longer exposures without worry of image blur, etc....., but the subjects do present various angles that would allow a bit more flexibility on the f-stop employed to best capture the finer details that are surely lost at F/8  downwards.

Again, if the "art" is what you see is best shown at F/8, F/11 or F/16, then I refrain on judging the artistic impression from a technical viewpoint.

Best Regards,  Mike

Link to comment

Hi Ian,

I am not upset by any question posed to me. It is the exchange of accurate information that is important to me.  As a scientist, I welcome questions, and conversation that leads to the truth. Nothing personal is ever taken by those pursuits.

 

I have seen that report that you reference. While it might be true for that example, it did not correspond with my copy of the same lens tested here.

My  Canon 180mm F/3.5 lens was tested in the optical lab that is certified to the highest level , the National Bureau of Standards. The same lens was then shipped to two other labs that test camera lens and post their results on the Internet. Their findings were found to have many faults in the procedures used and the instrumentation available to them.

Now, your lens might be better than the report that you go by. I suggest that you try more controlled shots on high definition images using various f-stops. Often, dead insects or other still life subjects allow you to focus more accurately, control the lighting as the results that you get will show you the best f-stop for your lens.

High definition imagery requires the most stable platform and best focus for your camera. It very well might be that your camera will limit any obvious differences between one f-stop to another because of the behavior of the sensor itself and the pixel size used. However, using a low ISO setting, improved color saturation and or contrast should still show, even if your camera limits the discernable resolution.

Best Regards,  Mike

Link to comment

 

My 2 cents in fewer words;  Using a tripod would let you drop your ISO to 100 and forgive any grain that might show up if this had to be heavily cropped. 

If the bg is distant enough you might try f 11 for a little more dof on just the subject.

Using the Recover tab and Curve tab will help adjust the bright spots.

Nice image. Maybe a bit cramped on the top.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...