Rollei 6008i + 180/2.8 Tele Xenar misbehavior. Need help!

[vijay_nebhrajani]

Hello all,

 

I just bought a Rollei 6008i kit and a 180/2.8 Tele Xenar from Robert

White. Overall the system is good and seems to work fine. However, I

noticed some subtle problems, and need to know if these are design

bugs/features (in every rollei) or they are just a problem with my

camera + lens combination.

 

1. The Tele Xenar seems to misbehave at aperture 22. When it

is kept at f/22 (manual mode), the camera switches to shutter

priority mode. In other words, this aperture becomes unusable.

This is consistent behavior. If I turn the aperture ring

anticlockwise slightly, the 22 appears in the viewfinder. In other

words, the electrical contact at f/22 seems messed up. In my

opinion, this can cause exposure errors, particularly if the camera

decides to go to shutter priority and give me an aperture I'd not

set!!!!

 

2. Intermittently, the viewfinder display does not indicate the

correct aperture. It displays about a third to 2/3 stops

difference from what is set on the aperture ring on the

lens. I cannot find the cause of this, and this is certainly not

because of overtightening an RRS plate... it happens even with no

plate on.

 

3. With the lens off, the display sometimes shows 88 8888, and

sometimes shows the set shutter speed and lets me fire the

camera. According to the manual, the latter should not

happen.

 

4. LOTS of dust between elements of the 180 Xenar. This is more than

specs. This is dust in a layer. I know about the earlier posts

about dust, and specs seem acceptable, but this much dust does not!

 

5. I timed the motordrive on C, and I get 25 frames in 17 seconds.

Is this not slower than 2.5 fps (that should have taken 10

seconds). Battery charge full. The specification in the manual

says 2 fps, but Rollei's website and other ads say 2.5 fps.

Any comments?

 

Only items 1 and 2 can cause actual errors, and 3 is probably

'harmless'. I'd be very happy if someone were to confirm that my

findings either do represent a problem with this particular

camera/lens (in which case I should return it) or are a general Rollei

trait... in which case I will live with it. I feel that at the prices

charged, the quality control should be stricter.

 

It would help if you did the following experiment...

With the aperture at the smallest (f/22, f/32) on your lens and the

shutter at say 125 (not A, not B) check the aperture display. Is it

22 or something else? Very slowly, turn the aperture ring towards 'A'.

Notice the point at which the display changes to a different aperture,

indicating that shutter priority mode is ON. (If you point to a dark

object, not well lit, the max aperture should flash). Does this change

happen just as you exit the f/22 detent, or does it happen closer to

the A mark? What is the display with your camera when the lens is not

mounted?

 

I apologize for the length of this mail, and like Thomas before me, I

am stressed out. Paying this amount of money should imply that i need

not worry about such stuff! Please help!

 

Regards,

[christoph-erdmann pfeiler]

1. The Rollei lens and the body seem to come from different series - the dust speaks for that. There have been several (more or less upward) compatible changes - from SLX (analog) to 6002/6006 (digital) to 6008/6003/6001 (devision of f stops by 3, not by 2, maximum shutter speed 1/1000 with leaf shutter).

 

Maybe you have to force the camera to close down the aperture before exposing (working aperture)...

 

Please send the serial numbers!

 

The swichting to shutter priority is just an effect of maintaining compability... Some lenses have a dedicated "A" automatics position, some not...

 

2. This may be result of different series of the production.

 

3. Are the contacts clean? Use a manufacturer accredited cleaning agent!

 

4. May have been in stock without caps (in an exhibition room) for a longer period...

 

5. Depends on model and age of batteries. I'm using the "small" Rollei (3003) myself. I really dislike the NiCd batteries, because I have to exchange them very often, because - as an IT professional - I cannot do proper maintenance and I do not have enough time to do the required maintenance load-reload - reload every 4 weeks, at least every 3 month. Do they do this in a camera shop?!?

 

To be honest - I've bought a full mechanical model (the SL35) to get rid of the problems, if the high-end model fails...

 

If You are doing studio work, think of the new mains power supply, made by Rollei. I think this is really an alternative.

[vijay_nebhrajani]

I must correct myself. I meant a new 6008 integral, and a new Schneider 180/2.8 Tele Xenar PQ. New battery, new everything.

 

Regards

[andy_ongun]

1. I ran your test, once the selector clicked to A the indicator showed a flashing 2.8. I did not have a problem regarding the selector staying on f22.

 

2. Could not repeat your problem despite various tries, and I don't recall having this problem in the years I have been using the 6008i.

 

3. With the lens off I see the shutter speed only.

 

4. I did not see the amount of dust you are talking about.

 

I have a feeling that the problem is with your particular gear and not with the combination in general. Do you have the same problem with other lenses?

 

I'd send the stuff back to Robert White and let them sort it out.

[thomas_diekwisch]

I agree with Andy on all accounts. By the way, the 6008i and the 180 are a super combination. Test the camera with another lens and the lens with another body if you have a chance. Then send the faulty one of them back.

 

1. My 180 works fine on f/22.

2. My 180 displays correctly.

3. The display shows 888888 in low light. The camera fires at the indicated shutter speed if there is sufficient light around. There is no problem with that since you won't use the camera under these conditions anyway. I looked into this while I had a 6006 and a SLX. The shutter speeds without a lens weren't really exact. The camera is designed to work with a lens or another contact carrying accessory in the bayonett.

4. My 180 does not have any dust inside. Yours might have to be returned. Too bad.

5. I have never checked the motor drive speed of the 6008i. I remember that in my older 6006 and SLX it was significantly slower than specified.

 

Too bad you have to go through this. I am quite happy with my 180mm. Be sure to use a hood, possibly even a compendium, since the lens is sensitive to stray light and internal reflections. I am sure Robert White will take care of you. Good luck.

[songster]

I have this particular setup and will attempt to answer most of your questions from my experience (and memory, since I don't have it in front of me now.) I do apologize if I repeat previous posters' answers without appropriate acknowledgement.

 

(1&2). I've never had this exact same problem, but I did experience a similar problem with the 150 xenar pq. In that particular case, the camera body could not read the lens aperture setting at all, and the body displayed the "88 8888" error message. It turned out that the contacts/wiring within the lens was loose, and it had to be sent back the Germany for repair.

 

Based on your description, it sounds like 1 and 2 are related, and in agreement with Andy and Thomas' assessment, I think either the body or the lens is malfunctioning (more likely the lens). If possible, test with a different lens.

 

(3). I can't tell since I don't have the camera in front of me. I am sure that Andy and Thomas are correct.

 

(4). You should not have LOTS of dust between elements. I have seen dust within the lens before, but at most one or two specks. I could be wrong, but dust doesn't get between the elements that easily unless it has been disassembled (true/false??)

 

(5). I have actually tried this on 3 different 6008i bodies a while ago, and this is what I found: a) they don't all advance at the same rate without film. b) they don't all advance at the same rate with film. c) the firing rate is faster with film loaded (true with two bodies), which does get close to 2.5fps if not exactly.

 

I must say that I've never found the 2.5fps useful since I always use MLU unless I am using with studio flash.

 

Anyhow, to make a long story short, I would try with different lens and body to determine which component is at fault (probably lens), and I do think a repair is a must. I am sorry that you have to go through this (and I remember how much I hated it when it happened to me), but this is a good setup for a variety of applications.

 

Best of luck.

 

Song

[vijay_nebhrajani]

Robert White has agreed to replace the equipment - I guess it was just bad luck for me that the stuff had problems... Anyway, these things happen.

 

Thanks to everybody - Thomas, Andy, Song, Christoph for your help. It is reassuring to have you all and the MFD here to sort out these issues!

 

Regards,