Rollei SLX

[john_p1]

Hi,

 

Could you tell me about the operation of the camera? SLX (mk

II), 80 HFT, charger N.

 

I see the stop down button, aperture release, shutter release, iso

settings and the shutter speeds.

 

Trouble is, I don't understand the LEDs in the viewfinder.  

 

Nor the auto exposure feature?  I'm about to run some film

through and I don't know if the auto feature only works when film

is in the back?  I was thinking that if, on auto, you hit the stop

down button, the lens would stop down to the right f/stop.  I see

the lens blades move when set manually.  I would think the cam

would give you some idea of what f/stop was just used. Not just

an ultra quick open/close/open sequence that's unregistering to

the human eye.

 

Also, the shutter speeds won't go past 2 seconds.  If it's longer,

the body freezes.  Is it a possible safety feature if there's no film

in the cam? B(ulb) is not even an option, the dial won't make it to

B.          

 

Battery?  is there a battery check?  Any instructions about

charging the battery?  Can you leave it trickle all day safely?

Does it ever signal if a charge is 100% complete?  I can sort of

tell if it's in fast charge or "pulse," but that's all.

 

And lastly, where do you align the film leader "arrows" on the

insert?  I see a triangular arrow in about the center of the insert.

 Is it used for both 120 and 220?  I suppose Rollei could have

designed the advance mech. to adjust for either film based on

the setting on the counter.  Just been my experience that you

align a 120 differently than a 220 on other equipment. I assume

you just keep flipping the insert around as opposed to having to

move the empty spools.

 

I can't believe how little the US market seems to value these

cameras. (Of course if I have a lemon I can see why, but even if

it's only a manual camera, it's still - oh-so-very-cool. I'm

beginning to understand the lust people have for these and

Leicas. Granted, my 'blad stuff isn't new either, but I just LIKE the

Rollei in a whole different way) If I ever want out, would Europe

be a better place to sell? Or are they saturated with them?

 

Hey thanks, she's a beautiful (man, what an understatement)

camera, I just need her to work! Make me sell my 'blad instead!

[greg_jones1]

I used to have a 6006 system, which I believe is quite similar to the SLX as far as layout etc.

 

If memory serves me right, there is one red LED. I think it served as a low battery indicator and also there was a green LED to give exposure confirmation with TTL flash. So I assume you have two LEDs in the viewfinder, right? I seem to recall that that a red LED signal also meant underexposure.

 

Autoexposure: Does the lens EVER stop down in auto mode? I mean, even if, say, you are outside in bright light with 100 film and a shutter speed of 60th? The lens diaphragm should stop down to say F16/F22 or thereabouts. When shooting on auto, no, there is nothing in the viewfinder that tells you what aperature you are shooting with.

 

Shutter speeds not going beyond 2 sec: Sounds like a maintenance problem.

 

Battery: No battery check, except for the low battery indicator (which starts when you have enough juice for a couple of rolls of film.) You have the latest N charger, which is a rapid charger unit. I don't know how old your battery is, but if it is as old as the camera it is likely hashed out like nicads get. You probably need a new battery for it to behave correctly. I think the N is a pulse charger rather than a trickle charger, at least as explained to me by Marflex. (Whatever the difference is, don't ask me.) No, don't leave the charging battery unattended. With the N charger, I recall that you can fully recharge a battery in good condition in about 3-4 hours. No, there is no indicator to tell you when it is "done."

 

Film loading: Line up the arrow on the film paper backing with the center triangular arrows of the insert for 120. Not sure, but I think the SLX used different backs and/or inserts for the two films. Yes, you keep flipping the inserts around. THAT is a nice feature.

 

I think your camera needs service. I wish you the best of luck with the SLX. I had nothing but misery with my 6006 Mod II and the solenoids in the lenses, except for the couple of later PQ lenses I had. If it was me, I would definitely keep the 'blad. Resale on older Rollei electronic SLRs is absolutely horrible. Given my experience with electronic Rolleis, now ask me if I am gonna get a 6008....

[bob_salomon]

LED on top lights up for low battery

 

Upper LED on side = over exposure

Lower LED on side = under exposure

No LED on side = correct exposure

Both LEDs on side = out of metering range

 

For all other questions see a Rollei dealer or call Rollei or

Marflex.

[john_p1]

I can see two red LEDs on the right side of the finder. upper and

lower. Not 100% sure if there is an LED on the top, but I'll keep

watch.

 

Any idea on how to determine whether the lens or the body is the

culprit?

 

Frankly, I use a light meter, so if manual is all I've got then...hey?

I'm still shooting Rollei.

 

I'd like to know if the camera behaves different when there's film

in it vs. not. Like how an F-3 only shoots 1/80th until you're on

frame 1, then reverts to settings, auto or otherwise. Going to

stink trying everything little thing out, maybe logging each exp.

with film and processing at stake, particularly if I can make

determinations without film in at all.

[john_p1]

I can see two red LEDs on the right side of the finder. upper and

lower. Not 100% sure if there is an LED on the top, but I'll keep

watch.

 

Any idea on how to determine whether the lens or the body is the

culprit?

 

Frankly, I use a light meter, so if manual is all I've got then...hey?

I'm still shooting Rollei.

 

I'd like to know if the camera behaves different when there's film

in it vs. not. Like how an F-3 only shoots 1/80th until you're on

frame 1, then reverts to settings, auto or otherwise. Going to

stink trying everything little thing out, maybe logging each exp.

with film and processing at stake, particularly if I can make

determinations without film in at all.

 

Also, sort of seems that I can see it stop down on auto, using the

preview button, but only to about f/8, if smaller, then it goes wide

open. Pretty hard to tell when you fire the shutter, as the exp's

are either too dim to see the blades moving, or just too brief.

 

Gracias

[bob_salomon]

973 808-9626 for all of your answers. Even for new questions

[patrick_umlauf2]

John, surf to www.rflex.de and get the 6002-manual online. It operates like the SLX. Great cameras BTW.

Patrick

[philippe_tempel]

I also have a 6006 system and like it a lot. I think your SLX differs by film back and film insert, no multiple exposure knob and no mirror lockup button. Other than that, they should be very similar. If your film back doesn't have a manual dark slide, then you will not be able to change the film mid-roll. Well, not in daylight (you could bring a film changing bag and put the camera in it, but that's a bit cumbersome). My 6006 back has the dark slide built-in.

 

You have the newer battery charger (I have the "M" charger) that should not make the mistake of over charging the battery. In my case, I need to be very careful not to leave the battery in for more then 3 hrs total. If I don't do that, then the battery could be ruined. This is regrettably not in the manual. Since the batteries have memory (because they are NiCd) you should always allow the battery to run down and then (and only then) recharge it. If you don't do that, then you could shorten the life of the battery. I have had a bad battery when I bought my kit, so I got a used replacement from Wall Street Camera for about $55. You should carry a spare battery so you're not out of luck when the current one does run out. Before you run out and buy a new battery, check to make sure the fuse hasn't blown. The one in use is on the end of the battery between the two metal clips. There should be a spare in a small hole in the middle of the battery. You can take it out by moving the plastic cover with a pen. I blew a fuse myself once and did the replacement which saved the day. Be sure to buy a new backup fuse to have in case it happens again. The reason why I blew the fuse was that I tried to stupidly reload Fuji Provia film that was already wound up. Needles to say never reload used film! :-)

 

Greg pretty much answered most other questions, so I won't repeat. In autoexposeure, you have to use the test button to see what aperture the camera will choose. If you don't like it, then manually set it to whatever you want.

 

My camera also goes beyond 2 sec shutter speeds with no problem. The only minor complaint here is that 15 sec is more like 17 sec and 30 sec is more like 35 sec. However, since I never actually use these settings I don't really care. You can't use those times anyway since you have to add time for film reciprocity failure. But Greg is right, you should have your camera body checked (and serviced).

 

I haven't had the lens problems the Greg has had, but I can't speak from experience since I've only used the standard 80mm HFT lens so far. It works fine for me, though. I wouldn't let your shutter problem turn me off on the camera. Get the repair and really give it a go.

 

You really need the manual since most of your questions are answered there. Patrick has the right idea, but I'm a typical American and can't read or speak German (maybe you can). So I would need the English version... ;-) I e-mailed Rollei Fototechnic about the manual and they sent me one for free! Nice service and I even offered to pay whatever fee was necessary. Try info@rollei.de and tell them that you don't have a manual and gine your home address. If you're lucky three to four weeks later, a little silver book should appear at your door step. Also there's a Rollei FAQ at:

 

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Village/3762/Rollei/

 

which should explain some common questions and the rest of the camera line. Bob should know since he contributed part of it. Thanks, Bob! :-)

[helge_sch_fer]

Hi John and everybody else,

 

I realize that the question is quiet old. But recently I got my hands on a "dead" Rollei SLX. After soldering a fresh battery

it is alive again. But automatic mode is not functioning and like Paul described before shooting with 4 s or longer gets

body freezed with mirror up. Turn off/on resets the camera and shooting with faster speed releases the mirror.

 

Additionally times between 1/4s and 2 seconds are all about 1/125 (this is a guess!)

 

With 1/8 s or faster set manual shooting seems to work fine (Test film will be developed tomorrow). My question to John

and everybody else who has yet run into this kind of trouble. Do you have a hint want part of the electronic causes this

effect?

 

Thanks to everyone,

Helge