Hasselblad aperture number repaint

[bill_dewberry]

I need to paint in the white aperture number " 11" on my 150 CF lens.

Anyone done this and what kind of paint to use ? oil, acrylic, etc.

thanks.

[kevin_kolosky]

dont use oil as it dries too slow. Use acrylic.

 

Kevin

[pete_andrews]

I'm not sure what Zeiss use on the 'blad lenses, but I've used tiling grout, or plaster of paris for this job on other lenses. You need to make up a fairly thick mix. You rub it in with a damp cloth, it fills the engraving marks, and the excess can be easily wiped off after a couple of minutes, leaving a very clean and pure white lettering. It can also be coloured to taste, using inks in the wet mix.

[erol_a.]

I would go to a hobby shop and pick up some of the paint (Testors?) model builders use. I'd think you could get a thinner and more permanent result from it than acrylic, and oil would just be more hassle than you need.

[jumpmaster]

I'm not exactly sure why my answer didn't show up the first time, but here it is again --

 

I've had this problem on my 80mm 2.8 T (chrome) lens...I almost bought the black 80mm T* lens, but number repainting problems (and other issues) made me lean toward the chrome one. I was able to use a superfine-tipped Staedtler marker on my lens (no white markings on the chrome lens)...your situation is a little more difficult since you need white markings...

 

What you *might* try is going to a local hobby store and picking up some acetate transfer sheets -- they come in different colors, different fonts, and different sizes. A well-stocked store should have what you need. Once you (CAREFULLY!) align the number onto the ring, use a dull pencil to transfer the number onto the lens barrel. You might also put a very small dab of clear fingernail polish on top of the new number to reduce wear.

 

I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS and it is only a suggestion...I will accept no liability for this procedure...that said, I have no reason to believe that it would cause any harm or that it wouldn't work.

 

Alternatively, some folks have said there is a man (in California?) that does renumbering like this and that Hasselblad may have some of the bands available as a repair item. If you want to go the safe route, I'd probably replace the whole band if you can find one for the 150CF (I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to get one...)...

 

Good luck! (Hopefully my note will actually get submitted properly this time!)

 

T. Bloxom

 

p.s. I haven't seen a 150CF lens up close...if the lens actually has _engravings_ for the numbers and the paint has come out of the engraving, you may be able to do something as simple as rubbing a white, wax crayon over where it used to be. Rub off the excess and the white wax will fill in where it was engraved before. Again, do this at your own risk, but it should work nicely if the lens had already been engraved for the numbers (my 80mm were painted (screened?) on, so I couldn't do this...)...

[ted_roberts]

I would not attempt this before contacting either Hasselblad or a good Hasselblad repair tech..I'm on the West Coast and can think of 2 techs that use to work for Hasselblad to contact.Ted

[jumpmaster]

Yadda, yadda...I already gave him all the appropriate caveats in my post...geez. He asked for suggestions on how to paint the numbers back on -- not the number to Hasselblad.

 

I know you people seem to get a big kick out of saying, "bleh...I wouldn't try that if I were you...feh..." but some people are simply wanting suggestions. I try to give folks workable solutions to their problems without being judgmental about their willingness to fix things themselves and with an appropriate amount of caution conveyed in my message.

 

FWIW, I think Bill may appreciate legitimate solutions to his question to a greater extent than finger-shaking...

 

So yes, Bill...do call Hasselblad and ask them how much to fix it...when they tell you it costs half the price of a new 150CF, please feel free to try one of my suggestions. :-)

 

TMB

[t._j.]

I have never tried this, but have always kept in the back of my

mind if i had to resort to it...

 

But at some graphic arts supplies store, they sell rub down

letters and numbers. I would pick out a size and color similar to

the existing ones and use a ball point pen and rub down the

missing number onto the ring.

 

Rub down type is fragile all on it's own. At this point, you could

use a small model paint brush and carefully dab and brush on a

clear protective layer of some sort to prevent the number from

chipping off.

 

This is just a theory at this point and I have never tried it like I

said before.

[jumpmaster]

<p>

You don't read too well, do you T.J.??? (I said this exact thing about "your" idea on the acetate transfers on the 18th...)

<p>

Would anyone ELSE like to recommend and outline the same procedure for using acetate transfers to replace worn aperture markings that's been given twice now on here????????? :-)

<p>

Please read through the entire thread...if your solution is identical to someone else's, no need to bother typing it out again right??

<p>

TMB

 

<p>

--------------------------------------------------------------

<p>

From my response from 18 JUN 01:

<br>

What you *might* try is going to a local hobby store and picking up some acetate transfer sheets -- they come in different colors, different fonts, and different sizes. A well-stocked store should have what you need. Once you (CAREFULLY!) align the number onto the ring, use a dull pencil to transfer the number onto the lens barrel. You might also put a very small dab of clear fingernail polish on top of the new number to reduce wear.

<p>

Your [T.J.'s] response 22 JUN 01:

<br>

I have never tried this, but have always kept in the back of my mind if i had to resort to it...

But at some graphic arts supplies store, they sell rub down letters and numbers. I would pick out a size and color similar to the existing ones and use a ball point pen and rub down the missing number onto the ring.

<p>

Rub down type is fragile all on it's own. At this point, you could use a small model paint brush and carefully dab and brush on a clear protective layer of some sort to prevent the number from chipping off.

<p>

This is just a theory at this point and I have never tried it like I said before.

<p>

[brian_kuehn]

Lets consider first, how the original paint must have been put there. My "guess" is that the entire area (lettering and surrounding surface) were all flooded with white paint and allowed to partially dry. Then the area surrounding the letters must have been wiped with something flat, like a felt block, moistened (NOT WET) with the appropriate thinner. This would remove the paint surrounding the letters but leave the paint contained IN the letters. An enamel (oil based) would be better for this than acrylic. Earlier someone suggested going to a hobby shop and getting "testors"; then said to avoid oil based paints! "Testor's" enamels ARE oil based. As such they could work well for repainting. Another model type paint would work even better; That's "Floquil", which is wonderful for painting finely detailed plastic models as it is VERY thin yet opaque. It comes in both oil based and acrylic versions; I suggest the oil based version. It airbrushes like a dream and will not obscure fine details. It also drys pretty quickly for an enamel.