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Mamiya RZ Portrait Lens


danny_liao

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By portraits, I'll presume that you mean a pretty tight one person close-up i.e. head and shoulders.

 

I'd spring for the 180mm which gives a nice compression effect although I use the 210mm APO personally. The 180mm is incredibly sharp and reasonably priced.

 

You may also want to look at the 150mm for a one person full-length portrait.

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If you have the 110, get the 180.

 

If not, with the 180 you will need a huge studio to take anything but head shots and still get your subject far enough from your background to control shadows.

 

I have the 180, and use it 85% of the time.

 

For my taste, "portrait length" starts at 180, and 140 seems a bit short.

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The 180 W-N is an incredibly sharp lens. I have it and use it often for portrait. Some of my "clients" complain about the details that show up in prints. I have read that the 140 is designed specifically for macro work and not as good as the non-macro lens for portrait. I have the 110 and use it for full body portrait with the 180 for tighter crop. I vote for the 180 W-N.

 

-Nghi

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Danny, you have to ask yourself a few things first; how far from your subject will you be? Outdoors won't be a problem to fill the frame with the 180 as you can step back and get the entire person in the frame. The 180 is nice for tight shots indoors. Be prepared to budget for a Softar diffusion filter as the lenses are very sharp and will show all imperfections in detail which your woman clients won't like. You didn't ask about the 150 but I think you'd be doing yourself a favor by considering that one. The newer 180 will have the designation of W-N after the 180 indicating the half stops between the normal f-stops available. Wider spacing between the stops , hence , the halfstops available and the 'newer' optical design. The perspective is really nice on this one. Another good thing is the effect that you get if shooting somewhat wide open or close to, the persons eyes can be in tack sharp focus and the forward parts of their face and their hair can be put in a softening , slightly out of focus 'mode', a nice touch on your female clients. 'A very very small depth of field.

Don't forget to order the lens hood specifically for the lens of choice, an inexpensive item but necessary.

Another item that I HIGHLY recommend is the flip up magnifier made for the RZ AE finder or the PD finder. You can focus on the persons eye lashes with this!!!

 

see the web sites listed below for these items.

 

http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?bid=RZ&cid=06&sid=newused&crid=7241613

 

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http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?bid=RZ&cid=14&sid=newused&crid=7241777

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You might want to take a moment a look at the Mamiya's descriptions of the lenses on their web site (ignoring for the moment their indication that each lens is perfect for everything).

 

The principal difference between the 140 and the 150 is that the former is their floating element design that allows you to control flatness of field (not very important in my judgement for portraits) and the latter has an additional stop of maximum aperture (relatively more important to aid in focusing rather than as a taking aperture).

 

Having already posted that I use the 180 (and now adding that I don't have the 150), if I add the 150 it would be more for brightness than for its slightly greater coverage.

 

I found, incidentally, that my old eyes have great difficulty focusing with the prism finder and a 4.5 lens with indoor light. If you opt for the prism finder, the magnifier that Miles described may be more of a necessity than an option.

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Love my 180. I use it with the regular 6x7 back and the 6x4.5 back. Working distance is good and results are just terrific each and every time. I'd be too close to set my lights with a 140 but that may be just me.
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