First Medium Format Camera buying Advice.

[rover]

Hi, I have been doing a lot of research and have decided to purchase

a used Hasselblad as my first MF camera. I initially thought was to

purchase a Rolleiflex TLR, but once I started to look, the prices of

used Hassy's aren't that much more from a good 2.8 E or F, and well

within my budget. I have learned quite a bit, much from the posts

on this site, but have a couple questions which are little things

that I haven't seen answered elsewhere.

 

My thoughts are the following:

 

The 501c commands less of a premium than the 500cm, in general will

be a newer camera, adds the Acute Matte screen, nonchangable rewind

crank, no window to confirm if the shutter is cocked. My only

concern is the last issue, I don't want to take the little guy out

of the box and jam it before I figure out how to load the film in

the magazine. I guess I am just looking for any hints as to how to

go about shooting my first roll of film without a problem. Am I

missing anything?

 

The 80/2.8 CF T lens is my biggest concern. I need to find the best

lens I can, after all, it is all about the lens. The only question

I have, do all 80 CF T lenses take B60 filters, or do older examples

of this lens use B50s? Add a lens shade and b60 to 67mm filter

adapter. Can the shade be used with the filter adapter attached, or

need I just bite the bullet and use Hasselblad filters?

 

An A-12 back. This is where I am most unsure, what should I be

looking out for when considering a back? I know that it is better

to get matching backs and inserts. Are their specific things I

should look for or ask to insure a back is fully functional and

light tight?

 

Flash, my thought is to find a bracket or handle and just use an

inexpensive auto/manual flash, Vivitar 285hv or Sunpak 383. Am I

right in recalling that I read somewhere that the Hasselblad handles

with a flash mount are not standard sized and can only be used with

the Hassy flash? Any suggestions?

 

Meter, Tripod I am already set with these.

 

In general are there any other things I should look for or

investigate when looking at specific cameras?

 

Thank you all, and wish me luck.

[ulrik_neupert]

I would buy a late 500 CM and add an Acute Matte D with split image and microprisms. The 501C was only available in black :-( You should also think about a 2000 FCW or 2003 FCW (where the shutter is in perfect condition). All 80mm CF lenses take B60 filters. Buy these filters, there is a reason why Hasselblad chose the bayonett type. But you can also use 67 mm filters via adapter, also together with the lens shade. Buy an A-12 back where shell and insert have matching numbers. I prefer backs that were made from 1984 because film loading is slightly easier, but this is not really an issue. To test for overlapping frames you have to shoot a roll of film. Light leakage through the darkslide slit can be seen with the naked eye. Installing a new light seal is a very simple do it yourself job. I use Metz 45 series flashes. Very sturdy, long lasting devices that require no extra grip. A Gossen Digisix meter would be enough for a start. I use a Gitzo 326 tripod with Arca Swiss Monoball B1 and old style Hasselblad quick release. Perfect for me.

 

Ulrik

[steve_levine]

Id look at Mamiya 645 cameras,Hasselblads are finicky,break down prone,and they & their accessories cost an arm & a leg.A $1000 will get you an entire multi lens outfit in Mamiya,not just a body!

[r s]

Steve wrote:

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"Id look at Mamiya 645 cameras,Hasselblads are finicky,break down prone,and they & their accessories cost an arm & a leg.A $1000 will get you an entire multi lens outfit in Mamiya,not just a body!"

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That's not a feeling I personally share. I've found Hasselblad to be extemely sturdy, built like a brick and a wonderful solid feel to them. Actually, since I'm an amateur I can afford to take these things into consideration, the 'feel' of Hasselblad in my hands was part of the deciding factor when I bought one. Mamiya felt like the plastic inferior product that it is.

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I also much prefer the 6x6 square format.

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I've also come to realize that 99% of all 'complaints' about Hasselblad reliability comes from people that have been able to move into the line now due to the price drops and are people that don't have any idea about how to handle the equipment and prefer trial and error to reading a manual.

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My personal recommendation is get a Hasselblad. The prices are great right now and you'll get a camera that looks and feels great - and has the ability to take some amazing images.

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It's not that Mamiya can't produce some wonderful, smaller 6x4.5, images it's just not my personal preference to use a camera that feels that way.

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Go to a store, check them out, handle them, play with the controls. Then buy what YOU like.

[audun_sjoeseth1]

Richard Silfverberg, I agree with you!

[audun_sjoeseth1]

If you plan to get a Hasselblad:

 

1 read the manual

 

2 check the equipment carefully for all functions

 

3 get a return policy if something is wrong

 

4 use a qualified place for repairs and CLA.

 

5 awoid equipment mistreated by userfaults and bad repairs, but if you get it almost for free, get it fixed in a qualified place after getting a cost limit.

 

All my Hasselblad except the CFE80 and one A12-6x6 is bought second hand, of top quality, bought at a low price. I'm 100% satisfied. (sorry for my bad english)

[rover]

Thank you guys. I am trying to learn as much as I can prior to making the final decision to buy, therefore avoid any problems when the tool is in my lap. As an amature I have been shooting mostly manual cameras for the past year and definately feel my skills have improved. I wish to continue this improvement, and feel that working with a MF camera will allow for that. I also know that the learning curve will be steep, as the skills I have as a 35mm photographer will not be as transferable to MF, as those I will learn using MF will be to my 35mm work. And the reason for Hasselblad, yes right now on the used market they are affordable, and I have always wanted one. I have also considered other systems, but with Hasselblad being in my budget right now, I don't see myself buying another, though they also are excellent. Again, thank you.

[john_wehlitz]

Ralph,

 

By all means buy a Hasselblad. I too had always wanted one, and I love mine. The feeling of taking photos with a Hasselblad is very much like the feeling of driving a Mercdedes, and much less expensive!!

 

Since you are experienced in using a manual 35mm camera, your skills should transfer pretty easily to medium format.

 

One thing to bear in mind, is that many Hasselblad lenses have the aperture ring and the shutter speed ring locked together. The idea is that if the light remains constant you can change the f stop to vary the depth of field and the shutter speed will change to keep the total amount of light reaching the film the same. When you want to adjust the aperture and shutter speed seperately, you need to pull back on the aperture ring to unlock them.

 

Loading 120 film in a Hasselblad back is a lot different than loading 35mm film. I bought a cheap roll of B&W film to use as a practice loading roll, and before I even tried loading the practice roll, I carefully studied the instructions in the manual on film loading. (If your camera doesn't come with a manual, you should be able to find one online.) I also located instructions that other users had posted online, and studied those as well. By the time I loaded the first roll that I actually intended to expose, I had no problems.

 

You can also use your practice loading roll to check the frame spacing by marking the surface of the film with a felt pen. Of course this involves removing the back multiple times, but it beats shooting a roll of film, and only finding out after it's been processed that there are spacing problems.

 

It sounds like you're doing your homework in advance, like I did. As a result, I think you'll have an easy time getting used to your new camera.

[tarashnat]

Ralph,

 

Take a look at Wildi's The Hasselblad Manual for how to use the system. Nordin's The

Hasselblad Compedium was an invaluable reference when looking for what

accessories are/were available and helped me in deciding which items to choose for

my kit. There are grips and other accessories that allow you to mount 3rd party

flashes. There are two types of A12s, one where both rolls are held by the same "clip"

on a rocker, and individual clips for each roll (older style). It comes to personal

preference. The 80 CF is a great lens, but it is not the best in the line. It (and its 80 C

cousins) are the only lens 80+% of Hassy users own. Most of those take great shots

with them. The Metz 45's are a good fit as flashes go (one was even branded for

Hasselblad).

 

The first thing I do with a new back is shoot a roll in sunlight with the sun at different

angles to the camera, and take a lot of time between shots. Light leaks will be evident,

as will spacing problems on development.

 

Plus, with the Hasselblad, you can always get a second (or third, or sixth) lens in the

future, budget allowing, of course. The system is quite flexible.

 

Taras

[rover]

Taras, I am actually going to order both of those books tonight. Every one talks about how expensive Hasselblad equipment is, but on the used market it really is no more than other systems, other than the CFE lenses, and these books!!! I have seen them selling used for twice the new price on Amazon. These books will be the only appreciating investment in my bunch of camera equipment.

[seb_seb]

Here are my two euro cents :

 

- I use a 501CM which also has no window to indicate if the shutter is cocked. This has never been a problem because you can verify this just by looking at the ground glass: when it not cocked you can not see through the glass since the mirror is up. The mirror gets down when you cock the shutter.

 

- The shade attaches on the outside bayonet of the lens while the filters attaches on the inside bayonet, so here is no fear about using tht B60 to 67mm adaptor + the shade. That said, keep in mind that if you buy later a 50mm CF lens (the FLE one is wonderfull) you will get a slight vignetting due to the adaptor.

 

- Concerning the back, I would choose the last version of the A12 back which has a plastic insert where you can slip the dark slide. This is VERY useful (especially when shooting outside)and this avoid having to buy another dark slide because you have bent yours.

 

501C or 500CM, you cannot go wrong. The Acute Mate screen is a real plus, and so is the long mirror if you want to use long focals.

[simonpg]

I started with a 501CM; 80mm CFE f2.8; A-12. I'd like to add a few things to put your decision into perspective.

In addition to the other comments you've received (ignoring reference to Mamiya) some points to consider that helped me:

1. Only you can decide the merits or relative and overall cost. Decide what will do the job long term, then plan your spend. Don't decide on cost - it will lead you to buying stuff you'll regret and later cost you more in the long run.

2. Hasselblad is the best entry to MF as well as the best MF overall - that's just a proven fact - nothing like the amount of Mamiya and Bronica stuff on the used market for good reason.

3. The later equipment is generally always an improvement on older bits.

4. CB lenses are better avoided if possible - yes they are high quality optics BUT overall they are not the uncompromising pinacle of quality components and construction. So if money is limited by 1 top quality lens and not 2 average lenses and just wait.

5. Always try to fit similar aged / series quipment as a kit - eg check serial numbers of film magazines to the film back.

6. 501 CMs are very popular student gear, and a lot comes on the market after students complete courses so if you keep close to secondhand dealers (like I did) you'll get a mint 501CM in kit for excellent value. The students buy under special distributor/Hasselblad promotions that offer huge savings (about 40% in Australia). I got a 2 year old kit in mint condition for about 80% of what the student paid and about 45% of new!!

7. CF/CFi/CFE lenses are magnificent. The i version is an update on the CF and Zeiss only makes improvements! The E version is an i version with databus compatible with the focal plane 200 series bodies. So a clean CF/CFi/CFE lens is the optimal choice. The 80mm version is superb and like all standard lenses it is quite adaptable - you'll be able to hold out for longer and wider lenses.

8. Metz - if you are buying a gun, forget the rest and just buy a Metz. Why buy an inferior gun when you decided on a Hasselblad over other lesser systems!! Your only real decision is which model of Metz.

10. Be paitient and keep your eyes and ears open for a mint versions of everything, and don't just leap in and buy any model available.

11. The 501CM does have improvements on the earlier models - eg the finder brightness is a big improvement.

12. The grumbles that some have about Hasselblads like dark slide and shutter cock indicators etc. are really examples of people's misunderstanding of the Hasselblad system. It is not a Japanese consumer item; it's not designed to be used in a hurry etc. etc. It is a very sophisticated piece of equipment for creative use and built as an all mechanical device to give decades of reliable use. So it requires intelligent thinking users to get the best out of it.

Finally, like Richard S said above, it is a very good time to buy now. Just remember what you are realy buying. Don't consider a Steinway if what you are really expecting is an all singing and dancing Yamaha electronic paino.