Like 4X5 Field Camera

[peter k]

Used Field Camera for new user. Hi All, I like to try 4X5 LF

photography and need help choosing a Camera. I have read Roger Hicks

Book but do not have enough money to buy what he and Frances uses. In

35 mm film my most used lenses are 24mm,35mm and 90mm.The same for

medium format equivelant. I like to take Landscape with lots of DOF

and some Building exteriors but not taller than the usual Church. Been

reading for weeks in this Forum but no further ahead than when I

started. The confusion is with bellows draw, rear rise or not , is it

necessary, and the LF wide angle lens issue. My walks into the field

would be no longer than 1/2 mile one way. The money available would be

$1000.00 including lens board and the usual ground glass. I have the

use of two lenses from my son a 90mm Rodenstock and a normal focal

lenght Congo. These come from a Arca Swiss Monorail. The Arca Swiss is

way too big to carry anywhere. It comes in a Suitcase size wooden box.

I am 65 years old and like to give it a try.The reviews of the Shen

Hao and Tashihara were informative but then someone else writes that

they do not have this or that other movement or feature. In short, I

do not know what I must have in order to get my Landscape sharp from

front to back and Buildings without converging lines. Any

recommendations are very much appreciated. Regards Peter

[tim_atherton9]

There are quite a few options, but a Toyo 45A would do most of what you are looking for (no rear rise - but I've never used it...)

 

Works fine with a 90mm lens and can be found for around that price last time I looked. Midwest phot has a nice newer toyo 45AX for $995 which would be almost new at their 9+ rating The older 45A's are generally a bit cheaper

 

Tough as old boots as well.. I've had an older 45A I bought used that has been all over and battered about and it still works like a charm.

 

have you checked out all the info at

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/

 

 

lots of good beginners stuff there

[leonard_evens]

I have a Toho FC-45X, which can do everything you want. It is basically a monorail, but it comes apart easily for transport, without taking up much room, and it is as light as anything available. It also has a rather full set of movements. I use my Toho with 75 mm, 90 mm (rodenstock), 150 mm, and 300 mm lenses. The Toho costs about $1200, but Badger Graphics is selling a Chinese clone of it for $850. You might need to spend another $70 for two lens boards, depending on the lens boards your lenses are now mounted on. Remounting lenses is very easy. There is a description of how to do it at

www.largeformatphotography.com. But you do need a spanner wrench, and these are also not very expensive.

 

See www.thalmann.com/largeformat/toho.htm for a comprehensive review of the Toho. The clone appears to be identical.

[michael_briggs2]

The most important movements for what you describe are front tilt and front rise. Front tilt is used to tilt the plane of focus to get both near, low objects and distant objects simultaneously in focus. Front rise is used so that you can level the camera and move the lens up to concentrate on a building without getting converging verticals. Front swing and either front shift OR rear shift are very nice to have. Movements other than these I almost never use and are far from the category of "must have". So if someone points out that a camera lacks a movement that I haven't mentioned, I wouldn't rule the camera out.

 

The rule of thumb for bellows length is that you need a camera with a maximum extension about 25% longer than the longest focal length lens that you plan to use. This rule is for "normal" photography rather than closeups. For example, with a 210 mm focal length lens, with 260 mm of extension you could focus as close as 1.1 meters.

 

A maximum extension of 300 mm tends to be a dividing line in 4x5 -- there is one class of cameras with this maximum extension, and another class that can go longer. Either class can handle 210 mm lenses, but if you want to have a longer lens, you need a camera from the second class.

 

The conversion between focal lengths for 35 mm and 4x5 is a factor of about 3.5. The relation is approximate for several reasons including the different aspect ratio of the formats. With this conversion, the 24, 35, and 90 mm lenses you mention convert to 84, 122, and 315 mm. So you will need to decide how important the longest focal length is to you to decide what maximum extension you need from your camera.

 

I myself don't use 300 mm often in 4x5. You might consider starting with the lenses that you have now and that would allow you to get one of the lighter cameras, some of which only extend to 300 mm.

 

With a two lens setup one can do a lot. In such a setup, 90 mm is an excellent choice for the wide-angle lens. Popular choices for the other lens in such a setup would be anything from 150 to 210 mm.

[john_kasaian1]

Peter,

Don't stress over this. If you aren't sure what you want, just get something cheap and easy to use (like a crown graphic)and have fun! If you have cash burning a hole in your pocket, put your money in the lens (so you can take it with you if and when you move up.) You'll learn soon enough what it is that you really want from a lf camera, then you can better make your own decisions. My 2-cents.

Good Luck!

[peter k]

Thank you Gentlemen for the advise. I now understand more what is needed in regards to tilt and rise front v/s rear. Also swing and shift as it relates to perspective control.Many thanks regarding the bellows lenght confusion it made it more clear regarding the draw requirement. I have since read the Kodak LF Camera Book and much was explained and understood. I do have the use of a Crown Graphic but I need the front rise and swing for what I needed to do. I will keep learning using the Crown Graphic ( lent to me by a fellow Camera Club member ) and will probably settle on a Shen-Hao field. I will keep you all informed if that is OK. Regards and Thank You. Peter

[jim_stewart]

The Crown Graphic does have a front rise and a backward lens tilt. After the lens has been extended to its working position, you can depress the angled struts from the box to the bed and then the bed will tilt down and lock into place. This gives you a front forward tilt. You will probably use this in conjuction with the lens rise. If you are using a lens longer than 150mm or so you can get a front shift by pushing the tab in the middle of the front standard down and sliding the lens to the side.

 

Jim

[peter k]

Thank you Jim. I have done some of that but it is swing that I need. Anyway I will keep playing with the Crown Graphic. Regards Peter

[patrick_li2]

I have a Shen Hao, it offers enough rise, swing for all the landscape work. It is probably the cheapest LF in the world, just be careful - not working with Kodak ready load and Polariod back.

 

Regards!

Patrick