New to 8x10 and contact printing

[pat_wilson1]

I have been shooting 4x5 for a little bit and I thought I'd make use

of my equipment access while I was in school and shoot some 8x10.

First off I will not be able to enlarge this probably (unfortunatly)

since I am not aware of any 8x10 enlargers in the student darkrooms at

least. Since I have never done anything over 4x5, I have never

shot/developed for contract printing. My weapon of choice is usually

FP4 and PMK, I haven't gone out on a limb and gotten any film yet. I

am thinking about bumping up the speed to HP5 since I am contact

printing, it really doesn't matter with my grain.

 

So I guess I am looking for wisdom from the elders. What should I keep

in mind?

[tim_atherton9]

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/index_skip.html

 

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/azo_main.html

 

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/writings.html

 

 

among others

[tim_curry]

Pat,

 

Your choice of film and developer is a good one, so if it gives you the look you want, don't change it now. The first thing you will need to decide is which paper you will use. You already have one suggestion for Azo, and I will have to second it. It is the best there is when it comes to a comercially available product for contact printing.

 

Azo paper has a longer tonal scale than regular enlarging paper, so the real change you will need to make is in exposure and development. You will need a denser negative with higher contrast for grade 2, so give it more exposure (density) and develop longer (contrast). You will have to run some tests, but I would suggest starting with 4x5 for film tests to save money and time before you do the 8x10 work. The negatives you have now, which print well on grade 2 enlarging paper, will be about correct for grade 3 azo.

 

Michael & Paula's site is the best there is when it comes to technical information on azo, contact printing, films for use with azo and development. Do a lot of reading in the forum, first. Once you start printing, you will understand why people are using it.

[jay_de_fehr]

I like HP5+/ABC pyro for contact printing 8x10. Azo is beautiful paper, and there are all of those alternative processes to consider, like albumen, POP, Platinum etc. Contact printing is just like enlarging in that you must scale your negative to your paper of choice. I recommend that you take full advantage of the unique possibilities that 8x10 negatives represent, and at least try developing by inspection. Good luck.

[pat_wilson1]

Thanks for the responces. I was worried about the PMK stain cutting the blue/UV spectrum that Azo is sensitive to, and I read on their forums that some people had issues with that. I think I'll pick up some grade 3 and try some of my 4x5 negatives and see how they come out. Good suggestion!

[michael_a._smith1]

Yes, don't use PMK. Even Gordon Hutchings said that he used

ABC when making negatives for contact printing.

 

And on the Azo Forum recently, Sandy King noted excellent

results with 400 speed J&C film. So if you want to use film that

fast, J&C is worth a try.

 

Many films to choose from at slower speeds.

[brian_ellis16]

I never exposed or developed any differently for contact printing than for enlargements. You can adjust contrast with Azo by the choice of grades and/or by combining the developer with a water bath. Or you can print on variable contrast enlarging paper with your enlarger and its filters as a light source. I used and liked Azo but I also used enlarging paper and made some very nice contact prints on enlarging paper.

[francis_abad]

As regards contact printing with AZO, you must expose and develop your negatives differently than you do with those negatives destined for all other enlarging papers because only then can you reap the full benefits of AZO's much longer tonal scale (approaching PtPd according to some). More density (more negative exposure needed than before), more contrast (more negative development needed than before). Do not misunderstand, this is not suggesting you overexpose and overdevelop - that is something else altogether. To know how much extra exposure and development is enough you must conduct your own testing (a procedure for doing this has been outlined in the AZO forum). Some films are better at this (e.g. Efke PL100) than others - i.e. they build density while building general and local contrast as well. Other films (e.g. Fortepan 200) hit a plateau after which extra development actually leads to less and less general and local contrast.