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Syncing with flash unit.


milton_messenger

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Uh, Milton, this ain't rocket science. First, does your shutter have an "X" synchro setting? Assuming it does, if you've got a cord that has the proper "sync terminal" [do you mean PC?] on one end, and the proper plug to attach to your flash on the other, just connect them all up. You DO realize, I hope, that unless your flash has built in automatic flash sensing, you'll just have to figure the right f/stop manually. Just what, other than plug in a flash, do you THINK the "sync terminal" is used for? If you're shutter doesn't have an "X" setting, get another lens with a shutter that does.
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I will assume that the shutter on your Schneider lens is reasonably modern. Then, as Alec mentions, it will have a PC (Prontor-Compur) style terminal for X (electronic) flash synch.

All that you need is a cord that goes from this to a synch connection on your flash. The cord from a flash should have a male PC connector, which is a pin surrounded by a cylinder.

 

If you have a lower cost 35 mm flash, it might not have any synch terminal besides the hot shoe. I think adapters are made that plug into the hot shoe and provide a synch cord terminated with a PC connector.

 

When you trip the shutter, the shutter will close a switch across the PC terminal, which will cause the flash to fire. The flash provides a voltage across the wires and senses the shutter's switch closing and causing current to flow.

 

If you are still unsure about what you need, take your shutter and flash to a good camera store and ask them for a cable to connect them.

 

If your shutter is an old model, it might have a different flash connection, and might have a switch that needs to be set to "X". A very old shutter might lack flash synchronization. In these cases describe your shutter more specifically....

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Alec, I do mean an "X" sync. My problem is that my Minolta flash units (which do fire

remotely) has a propietary cord that connects to the flash. I guess I'll need a custom

cable with "X" sync on one end and a Minolta propietary accessory connection on the

other end. Maybe I should buy a different flash unit? Thanks, Milton.

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Slave unit alone will not help, because the problem is to fire that first flash with the LF lens...

 

Nowadays many modern flash units do not have that PC sync cord at all. But there are small and inexpensive flash units with a simple PC cord that can be used to fire that larger flash connected to the slave unit Dave mentioned.

 

Or, as was also said before, there are also adapters that have a simple PC sync cord connected to a hot shoe into which that Minolta unit can be slid into.

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Given the Minolta cords, you probably need a regular PC X sync cable and then a screw/hotshoe mount to carry the flash at the other end. However, the issue is then whether you know the power of your flash units and whether they are adjustable ... If they are manual, fine; if not you may need to look into a flash with F-stop settings. I have the same problem with Pentax cords, but the top range Pentax flashes are manual and so work fine with a view camera. If you have a second flash unit, then a slave hotshoe mount is handy.
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Milton, some of the older lenses had a terminal with "X" or "M" marked on the lens somewhere. "M" was used for older flash bulbs which took a little while to warm up and actually fire. The pulse looks like a ramp which took time to actually put out maximum light. The "M" sync had a built in time delay so the shutter was timed to work with this longer pulse. The "X" was used for a strobe type flash (modern). The old flash I use from 1980 (Sunpak or something like that, don't even remember) has a PC cord which winds around the back of the unit and isn't really obvious until it is unplugged and unwound. Take a look at older flash units as they will have a better chance of having this cord. A used camera store in your area may be your best bet for a decent, inexpensive unit.

 

Old-old type flash receptacle was a two pin setup with the pins projecting out from the lens at some point. The old press cameras had a receptacle on some models with the pins on the camera body but not the lens. Hopefully the lens in question has a single (female) receptacle.

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Milton,

 

If you can't figure out if you have an "X" or "M" you can easily test for it. Once you get your flash working, look through the lens at the flash going off. If you have an "M" you won't see the flash through the lens. It will have gone off before the shutter opened, a necessity for bulbs that take a while to get going. If you see the full power of the flash, you have an "X", and you're ready to go.

 

If it turns out you have an "M" and your shutter needs service anyway, some shutters can be changed from "M" to "X" with a little creativity inside. I've done it before; just moved the contacts. If you have a repair shop that will do this sort of thing, they'll tell you if it can be done on your shutter. Another solution; SK Grimes can get you into a modern shutter if you like the lens eneough to do it.

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Minolta propietary accessory connection on the other end. Maybe I should buy a different flash unit?"

 

Milton, I'm still not sure you understand the problem. There is no "X" sync connection on the CORD. The sync is determined by the shutter. It would be helpful if you gave more information with your question, like what kind of sync connection your shutter has. So, again, does your SHUTTER have an X setting on it? And, is the flash connection a PC or something else? It sounds like your flash connects to your 35mm camera through the shoe. If so, and your LF shutter has a PC connection, and it has X sync through the shutter, you'll need a special cord from Paramount, PC to the proper shoe for your flash. If the shutter doesn't have an X sync, I'd look for another lens.

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the best flash ive found for ameture is a vivitar 285 with a varipower attachment... the varipower alows 1/16 power to full power flash on a totaly variable adjustment knob.. works off hot shoe,or pc cord.. i cut the pc cord in the center and put on ac type plug ins on the ends and i can use extention cords,and multiple outlets to reach flash areas.. good luck dave.
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