Infinity focus adjustment needed on Rolleiflex TLR - any advice?

[steve_brantley2]

I own an mid-1950s Rolleiflex TLR, model MX-EVS with the Xenar f/3.5

taking lens. It works perfectly at all shutter speeds and looks

like it is brand new. However, in an effort to improve the original

matte focusing screen's brightness, I recently purchased a split

image focusing screen, sourced from a Hong Kong seller off ebay.

The new screen has the same thickness and other dimensions as the

TLR's original focusing screen, but also has the split image

focusing added. I switched the focusing screen myself, and feel

that I did the job properly.

 

My question relates to the fact that now that I have this split

image focusing screen in place, it is obvious that my infinity

setting is off, with respect to distant objects. When the focusing

knob is turned all the way to the infinity mark, were it stops, the

viewfinder still does not show a distant object lining up in the

split image screen. It is as though I need to keep turning the

focusing knob some more, which I can't do. Perhaps the camera's

viewing lens was already like this with the old focusing screen

(which is my guess), and that I only found out about a mis-alignment

when the new split image screen was in place, Or, maybe I can't

assume that an aftermarket focusing screen can be used, and need to

put back the original screen? I don't know.

 

The lens base plate, as I call it (the part that moves back and

forth when the focusing knob is turned) appears to move in parallel

to the camera body, and doesn't seem to be mis-aligned.

 

It does not appear that my camera's viewing and taking lenses can be

screwed out and then reset to infinity, as I've read in the

archives, as they seem to be permanently mounted within the base

plate. However, there are two very small screws located on either

side of the f/stop/shutter window. Is this how I adjust the viewing

lens? But I don't see any other adjustment screw, or any screw

holding in the viewing lens. Short of me taking the camera to a

professional repair shop, is there another means for me to try and

get the viewing lens and focusing knob to match at the infinity

setting?

 

I have taken a few rolls of test C-41 film to see if the focus can

be determined adequately, and, I will use the hyperfocal distance

focusing technique.

 

Does anyone have any technical advice? Thanks in advance.

[mskovacs]

What is most important is that the taking lens is properly calibrated. Take your old focus screen, tape it into the film gate and focus on a distant object using as high a power loupe as you have available (at least 8x). The moon makes a good target.

 

If your taking lens is tracking to infinity and your dial is set to infinity, the problem is with your viewfinder. Likely, the thickness of the new and old screens is different and you will need to shim the new focusing screen. I don't know a source for shimming material but the procedure would be to add shims until the viewing lens focused an infinity object perfectly under high magnification.

 

Anything beyond what I've written means a trip to the repair shop.

[miles stoddard]

Unless you shoot only landscapes, if the viewing lens is not delivering an accurate image of "reality" at the assigned distances, infinity will not be the only distance which is off, unless I am missing something in your description. Have you checked shorter distances with measuring tape (object to film plane)? If you set focus to 10 feet, set an object 10 feet from the film plane, is the object perfectly in focus in the viewfinder? True, TLR's are "what you see is what you get", but ONLY if the taking lens is calibrated with exact components in place. Since your camera sounds like it is in mint condition, I doubt this applies to you: not all "hoods" (not just the glass, per se, but the whole hood) on Rollei TLR's are interchangable. I swapped two, slightly different ages/eras, one time, due to a spill, and then every image was blury, even though the image in the viewfinder was tack-sharp. This is likely not your problem but I mention it as these cameras can be "finicky". First, I would check several distances to see if and how much they are "off". Then, though the work is a pain, I would put the old glass back in for a quick test on infinity, and other distances. Truly a pain, yes, but at least you will know for sure if the camera was off before the new glass went in.

[mark_bouquet1]

I also bought one of those Hong Kong split image screens for my 1932 "Old Standard" Rolleiflex. It's not a terribly high quality product, but it sure did brighten up the viewfinder. The new screen was thicker than the original glass one in my camera, and required an adjustment in the viewing lens focus. In my camra, and probably yours too, this is done by loosening a lock ring around the perimeter of the viewing lens, accessible from the back side of the lens standard, and simply screwing the lens in or out until it correctly matches the focus of the picture taking lens. I had a technician do the job because they have an optical instrument designed for the purpose and can therefore accomplish the task to a much greater degree of precision than I could have. In my opinion, if you really want to get all the performance your camera was designed for, you should have an expert do the job too. But of course that's up to you.

[mskovacs]

Yes it makes sense if the screen is thicker that the viewing lens helical must be adjusted. The instrument a camera tech would use is an auto collimator. Still worth your time to check your infinity on your taking lens. It may be possible that both are out of whack (was the case on my Rollei).

[steve_brantley2]

Mike, Miles and Mark (and to others who may comment on my question), thanks for this advice thus far, and I will look at each potential remedy based on your suggestions. I have done a simple 1 meter test and found the focus to also be somewhat "off", in addition to the infinity setting. While hyperfocal distance focusing may work OK for any landscape shots, the current focusing error is sure disconcerting when trying to shoot a portrait within 3 - 5 feet. Maybe I should go ahead and contact a good repairman. Regards.

[johnmarkpainter]

PLEASE don't break your camera.

 

I have seen more than Rollei for sale described as Glass clean and clear except for a small

mark on the INSIDE ELEMENT.

 

I sent mine to austin@rolleiflexrepair.com and he did excellent work (I got mine rebuilt).

You have a nice camera and it deserves to be set up properly.

 

jmp

[tito sobrinho]

I am afraid that, you installed the screen upside down. Eighteen years ago, I received as a gift, a Rolleicord Vb that has the split screen but, I could not see the distant pole as a whole. The remedy, I found, was to flipped over the focusing screen a task easily done on the Vb.

[siu_fai_au1]

Steve, check the matte part of the screen as well and see if the focus match with the split prism. Some split prism are off a little but can still be used as an aid for quick focussing.

 

If there is a difference in screen thickness than you have to adjust the viewing lens, and the viewing lens only. It's a delicate procedure often requiring the removal of the front panel.

[mostly sports]

I would have this done by a Rollei specialist. For one thing, just taping a ground glass across the film gate is inaccurate. The film bows slightly, and the point of focus you want is a little ahead of the film rails. The official factory tool has the right degree of inset. Or a collimeter is used with film in the camera. The focus point is one third out from the center, to average film flatness issues. Marflex has very fast turnaround times, but is expensive.

[tito sobrinho]

Interesting... I have two Rolleiclears (Fresnel) that I've installed on my MS-EVS and on the 2.8C. As you all know, it adds thickness above the ground glass. I was leary about that, but, I did some tests at infinity with both cameras (lens wide open) as well as close-ups at wide open mode on both using the Rolleinar 2.It was very sharp on both situations and so, I don't think a few millimeters are going to change the plane of focus.

 

Now, you may ask: " Should it be installed by a Rollei technician?" I would say: "No! In those days, the Rollei Tech was the man behind the counter selling Rollei accessories."

[tito sobrinho]

Sorry, on the above remark, it should read: Rolleigrid instead of Rolleiclear.

[tito sobrinho]

...and should read close to infinity instead of infinity. Age! Age!

[mskovacs]

I think the difference with the add-on Fresnel is that the height of the bottom on the ground glass (image forming surface) is not changed.

[tito sobrinho]

Mike: When you insert the Rolleigrid, it pushes down the regular screen in order to lock the former under the 2 clips in the camera. The thickness of the Fresnel is .040" (forty thousands of an inch) and the regular ground glass is .050" (fifty thousands of an inch) So together, the mate surface where the image is focused, goes down to .090" or more or less .2 millimeters. The Rolleigrid is not just resting over the screen. It has to be locked. My point is (was); a few millimeters are not going to change the point of focus; at least not in the above combination (.2 mm)

 

I wish I had my Maxwell screen on hand in order to measure it but, it's installed in my other MX-EVS. After I installed the Maxwell, I did the same testing as described above i.e Rolleinar 2 and close to infinity- Perfect images!