Hasselblad Biogon 38mm CSW Chrome- how to focus??

[john_rogers3]

I have the opportunity possibly to purchase a very nice biogon, non-T* chrome.

How the hell does one focus this lens with any certainty that it will actually

be in focus. I cant understand why it doesnt have a split focus viewfinder.

I can imagine the DOF is amazing, but it is a little nerve wracking to measure

distance and trust that all will be in sharp focus. I hear the chrome 38 is still

an amazing, sharp and low distortion lens. anyone experienced in this subject?

Thanks in advance, John

[- andy -]

I am in a very similar position - I have the opportunity to buy a mint non-T* SWC but with a black lens of 69 vintage. I just wanted to add another question to this thread: Do you think I should wait for a T* multi-coated version, or go for this mint non-t* ? (price is about 1/3 of current new price). Am I going to notice that this is a single coated lens in actual usage? Thanks for any input!!!

[andreas_carl]

I used to have a 903 SWC and lack of a rangefinder did bother me, nevertheless, 95% plus of the pictures I took with the camera, focus was not an issue. I actually sold the camera a few months ago, but already regret it...

 

For landscapes, you can put it on infinity, or use a "hyperfocal" distance that includes infinity. A problem only arises with close-ups. You have 3 options a) guess the distance b) take some other camera to measure the distance c) buy the groundglass for this camera plus a loupe. For critical focusing, c is the best, but it means you have to remove and reattach the film back every time.

[sergio_ortega]

John and Andy,

 

For general photography (not close-up work) I've found that to achieve the sharpest results with the 38 Biogon when using the hyperfocal method of zone focussing it's best to set the infinity mark one stop less than the chosen aperture. For example, if your chosen taking aperture is f/22, I prefer setting the infinity mark on the focussing ring at the f/16 setting. This still gives enormous depth of field, but the results on the negative are significantly better than setting the infinity mark at the f/22 setting.

 

For real close up work, a cloth tape measure is a good idea. Or as Andreas already discussed, the ground glass adapter accessory is almost a necessity to achieve precise focus of close-up subjects.

 

Whether T* or non-T*, It's a fantastic camera/lens. Good luck, Sergio.

[michael_m3]

Andy:

Are you sure of vintage of the SWC you are considering? All Zeiss lenses for Hasselblad have been coated since late 50's. The T* multi-coating was subsequently introduced over the next several years in all models. I believe SWC had T* coating by '69, perhaps a Hasselblad historian can clarify. Weather single or multi coated, use the Proshade when using camera and you will not notice the difference unless shooting directly into sun.

 

I recently sold my SWC/M, replaced by ArcBody. I have some great images from my SWC/M, however I shoot old architecture and landscapes with trees, streams, etc. and the converging lines can be problematic. The 38 in 6x6 is roughly 21 in 35mm, it is quite wide and a bit of movements can greatly enhance composition.

 

The easiest focussing with SWC, ArcBody and FlexBody is via Reflex Viewfinder #47070. Image is vertically correct and 3.3x magnified for accurate focussing.

[john_hicks___]

If infinity is included, I set the hyperfocal distance using the indicators on the lens, then stop down one more stop. At closer distances, I guess as well as I can.

 

For accurate focusing, you'll need a groundglass adaptor and a magnifier of some sort. That can be a loupe (and a darkcloth), a prism or, fairly inexpensive, a chimney finder. Note that with a groundglass you probably won't be able to see the image corners most of the time.

 

Best thing to do is just practice.

[michael_alpert1]

When I use a camera with scale focusing (a 55mm lens on a Horseman SW612), I have found that the lack of a mechanical rangefinder helps me to consider my subject carefully. Almost always I am able to take landscape photographs in clear focus without any difficulty. With a 38mm lens, you will not have any trouble being in focus with most subjects. Your question, however, seems to suggest that you want to use this camera for quick photographs (i.e., street photography or some variation of that genre) or close-up photography. Without a ground-glass back and reflex finder, you will have trouble being accurate in composition or focus with close-ups. And I do not think that the Hasselblad SWC is a viable substitute for a 35mm camera in street-work. I don't know how much experience you have in medium format. Before you buy this camera, I suggest that you try it out to see if it fits your work-method and your photographic imagination.

[- andy -]

Michael M,

 

The serial number is TEW xxxx. I'm familiar with the vhpictures system, so this seems to read 69, but what on earth is the W for??? anyone out there have any idea??? Thanks

[ulrik_neupert]

The TEW... in the serial number of your Hasselblad SWC means something like '69 W(ide). My SWC has also the "W" following the 2-digit-model year code. My Hasselblad ELM's have an "E" as a third letter, probably meaning E(lectric).

 

Ulrik

[robert_fleischman]

John, Iv'e never been disappointed with the focus on my SWC. The depth of field is so great, that if you just use the DOF scale in conjuction with a little judgment about estimating distances, you won't go wrong. I love mine. Buy it.

 

Regards, Bob

[john_rogers3]

bob,

 

do you think that if i shoot within 10 feet of subject, i wouldnt need a

rear glass prism screen for accurate focus. I like to use wide angle lenses

close to subject sometimes. thanks for the input. john

[john_hicks___]

Ten feet should be no problem at all. I have trouble around three feet and closer, usually guessing too far.

[Rob F.]

I agree. No problem at 10 feet. Even if your distance judgment is a little off, with the lens set to 10 feet you get DOF from 5 feet to 50 feet. And that's wide open! At f/8, you get 4 1/2 feet to infinity. If you find you want the groundglass, you can always get one. But I doubt you'll need it except at very close distance. Sorry it took me so long to find my way back to this thread.