NEW Manual focus cameras?

[andy_grow]

As I mentioned in another post, I've got an Olympus OM-1 body with a

few other lenses.

 

I am a BIG fan of the "KISS" (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle, and

I absolutely LOVE the simple, all manual everything cameras.

 

We are considering buying a new manual camera, and I'm wondering

what opinions are in regards to the Nikon line of NEW manual focus

cameras?

 

I like the fact that I can use the Nikon F series lenses...that's a

big plus.

 

Thanks for your help/suggestions!

Andy

[diego_alonso]

I think you will like the FM2 and FM3 models, both from nikon.

Both are manual and ae priority. FM3 have a 1/250 sec synch.

I own a F3 and i think it´s a very good option also, you can find one in very good conditions for the price of the fm2 or fm3, the pros are the modulity of its components (you can find a lot, good market second hand) and against is the low synch (1/80).

I would like to post an extense answer but sorry about my english, i hope i can help you.

[mendel_leisk]

This is not what you're asking, but please consider:

 

I'm scanning years and years of Tri-X, family pictures. Shot after shot, I'll have faces just (or way) out of focus, because I was focussing on a strand of hair or pattern on clothing, which was forward or back of the optimum. Action shots of kids tearing around? The blur definitely isn't all motion. My eyes ain't what they used to be, myopia compounded by longsightedness, now. This time around, I got a 50mm f1.4, with autofocus, a Pentax MZ-5n (badged differently in the States?). It features center weighted or spot focus, focus lock, plus manual focus, of course.

[eric_branden]

Isn't one of the low end nikons a rebadged cosina?

[ofey_kalakar]

The FM3A should be on your radar screen.

[Spearhead]

Get the new <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/voigtFlexTM.htm">Bessamatic.</a> It's so manual it doesn't even have open aperture metering. Have fun...

[andrew_somerset1]

The new manual focus SLR for Nikon is the FM3a. The next newest is the entry-level FM10, which is made for Nikon by Cosina. There is (or was?) also an FE10, which is basically the same as the FM10 but with an aperture-priority mode. These are the only manual focus SLRs currently made by Nikon.

[el_fang]

<i>"I'm scanning years and years of Tri-X, family pictures. Shot after shot, I'll have faces just (or way) out of focus, because I was focussing on a strand of hair or pattern on clothing, which was forward or back of the optimum."</i>

<p>This is simply called "not enough practice." If you want to use AF as a crutch, then be my guest. But properly used, MF is FASTER and MORE ACCURATE than any AF system available as of today.

 

<p><i>"Action shots of kids tearing around? The blur definitely isn't all motion."</i>

<p>See above.

[andrew robertson]

Al, you are blowing smoke. MF is possibly more accurate, but hardly faster than AF,

except in low-light.

[._._z]

Hey, that Bessamatic is nice, and it takes wonderful super-affordable Super Takumar

screwmount lenses.

[._._z]

Save money, buy used: F2, FM2, FM3a, F3

[cbender]

Others have already mentioned it, but I'll add in my plug for the Nikon FM3A. I love mine! It's simple to use, small and not very heavy, and it works great with all of the used Nikon AI & AIS lenses on the market.

[stephen_schoof1]

I have an FM10 to complement my automatic cameras, and I like it for extremely lightweight outdoor activities, long time exposures, or when I'm in the occasional mood for manual simplicity. For those limited purposes it's great, but if you're looking for a sturdy primary camera you should avoid it in favor of the FM3a or an older used body.

[arnabdas]

I have two of them and I want more! The features of FM3A any diehard MF photographer will simply love --<p>

<b>1. Hybrid shutter control: </b><br>

Those of us lucky enough to be using/have used an FE2 know what an utter bliss it is to have auto-exposure and TTL flash in a well-built MF body. However, they would still be wanting an FM2n in situations where the batteries are very likely to pack up, such as in sub-zero temperatures. For an MF diehard, carrying an FE2 and an FM2n would seem to be the only fail-safe option if anticipating situations like this. Not any more � now you only need an FM3A. Have batteries? Use step-less shutter speeds from 1/4000 second down to 8 seconds in aperture-priority auto-exposure mode. Got no battery? No problem � take out your hand-meter or use plain experience and click away in the range of 1/4000 sec. to 1 sec. Hybrid shutter control at work for you.<br>

<br>

<b>2. Build quality: </b><br>

Built like the proverbial tank? Likely yes. In fact, size for size -- it wouldn�t be much of an overstatement if it were said that a typical tank is built very much like the FM3A. Metal all over and inside � copper silumin aluminum body with a sturdy feel that fills you with confidence the moment you take it in your hands. Top and base casings made of brass and finished in a retro chrome or trendy black finish. While no crash test data seem to be available, it can safely be said that the FM3A can withstand a lot more knocks and bangs than most SLRs available today. Even the whole film rewind crank is made of metal. The overall �quality feel� that this camera has owes a lot to its rugged, all-metal build.<br>

<br>

<b>3. TTL flash with 1/250 max sync speed:</b><br>

Description of TTL flash and the unique advantages it offers to flash photography would be a digression in the present context. Nikon took this feature out of FE2 and put it in FM2n and called this combination FM3A. Other features notwithstanding -- this single feature alone, together with the build quality, is well worth the price of the camera.<br>

<br>

<b>4. Self-timer with mirror pre-fire:</b><br>

Self-timer is a somewhat common feature, but the mirror pre-fire capability can certainly be looked upon as a poor man�s mirror lockup. Ranges from 4-10 seconds and locks the mirror up the precise instance the shutter button is pressed. If you are shooting a stationary subject with no wind movement or anything else causing subject movement, this technique is as good as using mirror-lockup would be. Self-time operation is cancelable, too.<br>

<br>

<b>5. DOF Preview lever:</b><br>

This has often been a missing feature in many otherwise good cameras offered by Nikon and others (F/N70 as a recent example comes to mind, even the venerable Pentax K1000 had missed out on this). It is there in the FM3A.<br>

<br>

<b>6. Overall �smoothness� of controls:</b><br>

The film-winding lever, rewind crank, DOF preview lever, self-timer lever, exposure compensation dial, ISO dial � all have a smooth and sure feel to them. This camera really handles so very well.<br>

<br>

<b>7. Classic center-weighted Metering and exposure compensation:</b><br>

So many Nikon users have reportedly been spoilt by the matrix-metering available in the newer models. While multi-segment matrix metering is dead-on most of the time, in a sense it limits one�s creativity (BTW, many pros use spot-metering all the time). With the built-in classic 60/40 center-weighted meter, and the exposure compensation function � *you* control how your slides will look. It does require a bit of calibration using standard techniques but once you get to know your camera, you will get consistently good results.<br>

<br>

<b>8. AE lock:</b><br>

A neat inclusion, but implemented by way of a tiny button that some people might find difficult to use.<br>

<br>

<b>9. Film-window at the back:</b><br>

You will find this diminutive feature to be a lot more useful than what it initially appears once you manage to forget what speed film you loaded in a hurry a couple shots ago, and had missed changing ISO dial to the correct setting then. You will get saved if you had your camera set to DX, though.<br>

<br>

<b>10. Great handling and performance with MD-12 motor drive:</b><br>

3.5 FPS continuous shooting, auto-advance in single frame advance mode, lovely handgrip and exposure meter stays on for 66 seconds. Once you add an MD-12 to your FM3A, you�ll hate to take it off again. Once attached, it feels very much like an integral part of the camera, in spite of adding quite a bit of weight in the process.<br>

<br>

<b>11. DX coding:</b><br>

This will likely be very helpful to some, but I personally am not inclined to give up on the habit of setting ISO directly. Helpful feature it is, but not essential. If I had the option of giving up this feature and not paying for it � I�d probably have done just that. Better yet, I would just love to trade this option for spot metering.<br>

<br>

<b>12. Match needle manual metering:</b><br>

Either you love it, or you don�t. I personally just love it. Select aperture, click to the correct time value using the shutter speed dial and then fine-tune exposure using aperture ring to set an intermediate value between f-stop clicks.<br>

<br>

<b>13. Exposure compensation and flash ready signals inside the viewfinder:</b><br>

The +/- compensation symbol does not tell you how much. But at least you know you have exposure compensation set to some degree. Flash ready light is neat. The ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) window is the same as it has always been for MF Nikon bodies � and useful as ever.<br>

<br>

<b>14. �1 stop On-camera flash exposure compensation:</b><br>

While not as good as on-camera flash compensation in 1/3 stops, works fine for most available light portraits where you would need some fill-flash to eliminate dark shadows.<br>

<br>

<b>15. Multiple exposure:</b><br>

It�s there for you to try out if desire strikes.<br>

<br>

<b>16. Interchangeable focusing screens:</b><br>

You get a choice of 2 screens. Gone are the days of the F3 with a daunting 22-screens collection to choose from.<br>

<br>

<b><i>Things that could have been done better �<br>

</i></b><br>

<b>1. No spot metering: </b><br>

It�s a surprise omission at this price bracket and for a lovely camera like the FM3A. Not sure what came over the designers in Nikon R&D lab. Perfection is impossible to achieve but can at least be aimed for � and the FM3A got so close �<br>

<br>

<b>2. Real mirror lockup:</b><br>

The self-timer with mirror pre-fire is just not a substitute.<br>

<br>

<b>3. No toggle switch for AE lock:</b><br>

It is hard to keep the AE lock button pressed, especially when using a tripod and cable release. I would envision a toggle switch with an LED lock icon indicator inside the viewfinder (somewhere on the top row, near the flash ready indicator), lit up would mean exposure is locked. Would that be asking for too much?<br>

<br>

<b>4. No slow/rear sync, shutter speed is held constant at 1/250 s in aperture-priority:</b><br>

This feature rules out a few creative possibilities while in the aperture-priority AE mode.<br>

<br>

<b>5. Exposure compensation value is not displayed in the viewfinder:</b><br>

While bracketing shots, you need to refer back constantly to the top exposure compensation dial. There would likely be some real technical difficulty implementing this, though.<br>

<br>

<b>6. Very basic flash exposure compensation technique:</b><br>

The constant, �1 flash exposure compensation is neat for outdoor portraits, but could be even better if provided from -.5 to �1.5 in ½ stops (or better yet, -.7 to �1.7 in 1/3 stops.). Besides, flash exposure compensation set on flash is cancelled out in aperture priority mode. It appears that while using TTL flash with the FM3A, one is far better off in manual mode.<br>

</p>

 

[arnabdas]

The above excerpted from a writeup by me on FM3A. I sleep with these cameras ...

[Spearhead]

<i>I sleep with these cameras ...

</i><p>

You're a candidate for Leica ownership if you don't already have five.

[aguilabrava]

I agree with Jeff, even if you don't buy it, at least take a look at the Bessaflex.

[mendel_leisk]

Al, I found manually focusing on kids ripping around dang near impossible, at best an exercise in masochism. If there's a tool available, that can pretty consistenly zap things into focus, AND offers you the option to shut it off and focus manually, why fight it?

[david_h._hartman]

<em>"This is simply called "not enough practice."

If you want to use AF as a crutch, then be my guest. But properly

used, MF is FASTER and MORE ACCURATE than any AF system available

as of today." --Al Feng<br>

</em><br>

Im not so sure. I find the Nikon F5 deadly accurate when

comparing the electronic rangefinder against the finder image of

a DW-31, 6x high magnification finder. The lens I was working

with last night was a 400/5.6 ED AI Nikkor with tubes.<br>

<br>

Now if you are talking about focusing on the eyes with a B or E

screen be it an F5, F3 or FE2 without the point, focus, recompose

routine manual focus can be very fast, yes even faster and if you

are talking about an AF system focusing on someones chest

instead of there eyes well then manual focus is more accurate.<br>

<br>

The nice thing about the F5 is you can have your choice between

point, focus, recompose and shoot or focus wherever on the matte

surface and almost at the speed of thought (not the focusing but

the decision). One can also use AF like MF by disabling AF at the

shutter release with custom setting 4:1 and use near IR assist

with custom setting 2:1 to give single servo focus, release

priority. This works in near total darkness as all you need to do

is see your subjects face to focus. Once you let go of the AF-ON

button the focus is locked so you are free to take several shots

with out the AF system trying to be helpful.<br>

<br>

This trick works (custom setting 4:1 with the F5 and F100) in

broad daylight and it works for those who can no longer use

manual focus because of aging eyes.<br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

I remember the first AF SLR the Minolta Maxxum and I could not

figure out why people bought it. The AF was so lame you could

have a subject in focus and the camera didnt know it so it

would not allow you to take the picture.<br>

<br>

There is a belief in technology that borders on the ridiculous.

The problem is the same people who get unfocused photos with a

manual focus camera are the same one who get unfocused (or

misfocused) photos with an autofocus camera.<br>

<br>

Then there are those who struggle with the game pad and trying to

keep the selected sensor on the right spot on the subject while

the composition and expression goes to hell. <br>

<br>

So which side am I arguing? Im arguing that the

photographer is more important than the equipment.<br>

<br>

I love that joke about fool proof equipment and nature creating a

better fool. With a spelling checker and grammar checker my word

processor is fool proof, right? ;)<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave.<br>

<br>

BTW Ive been laughed at for suggesting to some that they

practice focusing their cameras. Ill bet you cant

guess why I made the suggestion.

[david_h._hartman]

Arnab,

 

You need to broaden your horizons. Your next cameras should be an F5 or an F3 with MD-4. The great thing about both is you never have to use AF!

 

Best,

 

Dave Hartman.

 

Did I mention you can have a "U" screen for both?

[arnabdas]

David,

 

I think you're quite right ( about broadening the horizon... + U screen)

 

;-)

[fernando_mcsoto]

Go Nikon FM3a! (while still available) No doubts here.

 

 

 

 

By the way someone here is saying that the FM2 has AE. That is not true. The FM2 has a mechanical shutter with no aperture priority or auto-exposure. Therefore the "a" of the FM3a. It contains all the advantages of the former model plus, among many advatanges, auto-exposure with a unique hybrid shutter (both mechanical and electronic).