Novar, 2nd Chance

[connealy]

The first test roll through my Ikonta B was not bad. The second was

something of a disaster. When I complained about the Novar lens,

someone tactfully suggested I examine my technique with particular

attention to careful focusing at wide apertures. So, I ran another

roll through the camera and was pleased to find that the lens --

stopped down and properly focused -- was indeed capable of producing

very nice images.<div></div>

[connealy]

For a 6x6, the Ikonta is extremely light weight and compact. The design is pared down and functional with a modern look that belies its pre-war origins. The simple hook-style strap eyelets are positioned so that attached strap hardware cannot do any damage to the case. The flip-up viewfinder is bright and fast to use. The simple double-exposure prevention mechanism is wholly housed in the narrow silver box atop the camera. The leather bellows is typically Zeiss-sturdy, and the front door pops open with authority.<br>   

These cameras came configured with a variety of lenses and shutters. Collectors often drive up the prices on the Tessar-equipped models well beyond $50. Mine was obtained for around $15, partly because of being the bottom of the line with its Klio shutter and Novar lens, but also because of the condition. When I got it, the lens was dirty, the focus stuck and shutter balky. As it turned out, none of that was hard to fix. Disassembly of the lens and shutter was straight forward, and some Ronsonol and fresh grease got things working smoothly. The simple-looking double-exposure prevention feature proved more problematic, with the film advance being very hard to turn. A drop of gun oil smoothed the operation of the film advance, but also disabled the shutter release mechanism. It took me some time to arrive at the solution of bending up the round leaf spring in the mechanism to achieve proper tension allowing the double-exposure prevention feature to work as it should.<br>   

Although the shutter's top speed is just 1/200 sec., the minimum lens aperture of f22 allows easy use of 400 speed film. That makes the camera very flexible in use, and hand-holdable except in very poor light. While the Novar lens does not appear to be coated, it is adequately contrasty as long as one avoids pointing too close to the sun. Like most old folders, a lens shade is indicated but awkward to use because it would obscure the focus setting. My usual technique with these cameras is to just turn the camera sideways or even upside down so that the barn door shades the lens -- with the 6x6 format there is no harmful effect of such manipulations on composition.<div></div>

[connealy]

Both shots were at 1/200 and f22. TMAX 400 film in TMAX developer.<div></div>

[connealy]

I intended that last picture to be an attachment. Don't know why it appears as an in-line image at 602 pixels height. I guess we have some special dispensation from the photo.net pantheon.

[josphy]

I think width is the deciding factor (must be under 500 or 501 or 550 or some number of pixels starting with a "5") in whether an attachment shows up in the message or as an attachment. Good presentation as usual, Mike! I always look forward to what old camera you're going to be showing off next.

[joe_dahlgren]

Mike,

I really like your pictures and that you use old cameras. I have and use several Retins II, IIa, IIc, IIIc. I know it is subjective but I think Retina they are under-rated. I also had and sold (I wasn't thinking) an Ikonta with a Novar and it took sharp photos. Nice work on your web site.

[h._p.]

That first shot is really first class, showing that you can get excellent results even with a three element lens if you know what you're doing. I was trying to point this out on the medium format forum but it got drowned in the static from the 'I've paid for a Planar so everything else is rubbish' brigade.

[connealy]

I saw someone bashing the Trioplan recently in the Medium Format forum. It seemed pretty obvious to me that the "expert" had never made an image with one and didn't have a clue about the capacities of that lens. I haven't run enough film through my Novar-equipped Ikonta yet to have the same confidence in it as in the Trioplan on my Dolly, but I know putting either one in my pocket will prepare me to capture some nice images. The portability and simplicity of these cameras are also important contributors to their effectiveness. With the 6x6cm film format, or larger, I think it is also very questionable that anyone will be able to distinguish the images made with a good three-element lens from one of the more upscale makes like the Tessar or Skopar. Actually, I suspect some pretty good images are possible even from some of the 35mm machines equipped with the Trioplan and similar lenses.

[tito sobrinho]

Mike, as usual, your excellent images amaze me!

[henricus]

Mike,<p>What a wonderful shot that you've title wild bill. I have a Novar-Anastigmat on my Zeiss Ikon Nettar and I was truly amazed with the results of this lens. Of course I've been told that it is the big negative and not the lens, but pooh to them. :-)

[connealy]

Wild Bill is what he calls himself. He is one of our nearest and most interesting neighbors. Bill has been an oil well driller, a Marine, and probably a bunch of other stuff too. He spent years travelling around the Southwest in a wagon pulled by a team of donkeys. Bill parked his outfit about a mile north of our place a couple years ago.

[rod g.]

Great subject, intriguing photos! I very happy to see such fine results from the humble Ikonta B.

 

I have the same camera but with different specs, 3.5/75mm Tessar with a Compur Rapid shutter, 1 sec-1/500 sec + B. It cost $75.00 but it's in great shape and included a recent CLA so the price didn't seem too terribly outrageous. Unfortunately either because it was reassembled badly or a replacement part was made up badly the shutter will only close half way when released although it cocks and fires just fine.

 

Now I'm really looking forward to a test run!!!

[connealy]

Rod,<br>

Congratulations on getting that fine camera. I tried to get a similar one recently, but it went past my upper limit by about the fourth bid. Could be just a little dirt on the shutter jamming things up. In any case, well worth the cost and effort to get it working. Will look forward to seeing the pictures.

[rod g.]

Thanks Mike! I hope you are successful in acquiring one, you're outstanding at squeezing new life out of these old ladies.

 

The camera came with the caveat that cocking the shutter for the first shot (upon opening it) required gentle force and that was true. Unfortunately the gentle force was needed to clear an internal obstruction which seems to have reversed in that it no longer clears on closing now. I'll probably take it in this week.

 

If my film house can make me a CD from MF negative film I will definately post some results on here for you.

[mskovacs]

Nice shots. Keep shooting and posting images from this beauty.

 

Hope you weren't refering to my post in the Weltaflex thread over in the MF forum Mike. I don't claim to be an expert nor did I say anything beyond that the three element lenses were your basic mom and pop lenses. I'm not even pre-1970 but close!

 

No doubt that a Cooke triplet can produce diffraction limited results stopped down, especially in the centre. I guess people hope to shoot folders indoors with available light which unfortunately they just aren't very good at doing. They are just too prone to shake, have focus accuracy issues (those without working rangefinders), film flatness difficulties and optics that shine when stopped down. For this reason, I'd never want or recommend a 3-element lens on a TLR and given the choice favour a Planar over a Tessar. With a folder outdoors and the ability to stop down, I say go nuts...the big neg works great with fast modern films if a tripod is out of the question. A tripod really defeats the purpose of a folder to me: Ultra-compact medium format camera, one that you can always carry in your pocket. If I'm going to lug a tripod, the Rolleiflex is coming along.

 

A Super Ikonta (6x6 format) is on my hit list and the Novar may make the purchase much easier on the wallet! They are certainly easier to find. I'm curious if people are using lens hoods with these cameras? How?

 

P.S. really enjoying this (to me) newly discovered forum, hidden away off the drop down menus!

[mskovacs]

I guess that should have read (Super) Ikonta. I'll buy what comes my way and worry more about condition that a rangefinder and its added bulk.

[connealy]

I can't really argue with the idea that a superior lens and an accurate rangefinder is going to up your chances of getting a shot under difficult lighting conditions. I love the Tessars on a couple of my old folders. However, there are so many variables contributing to success and failure that I think it is dangerous to be dogmatic regarding the hardware. I posted some photos here previously shot inside an aircraft hanger with both my Dolly and my Super Ikonta. I was pleased with the results from both, perhaps for different reasons. To carry the idea a step further, some of my favorite pictures have come from a meniscus lens in a box camera, so I'm probably not the person to look to for advice on hardware in any case.

[mskovacs]

Yes I was browsing through your folder last night. Really nice work, "out of the box" if you will!

 

The difference between here and the MF forum is that one can assume people here really want to use a classic camera to achieve some photographic objective and understand (or want to understand) exactly what they are getting into. I really couldn't recommend an old, uncommon TLR of questionable quality with cheap optics to a rank beginner when Tessar/Xenar Rolleicord prices are in the mud. Why scare a newbie away with a bad experience?

[mfophotos]

Mike:

 

Astounding clarity and very nice images! I love seeing what poeple shoot with their

old folders. I need to finish up a roll in my Voigtlander!

[connealy]

Just to tease out a bit more on the topic of using old cameras. I could not agree more that there are great deals to be had still on wonderful old cameras made by Zeiss, Rolleiflex, etc. You can often buy them at the same dollar price today as when they were originally produced, even though prices adjusted to account for inflation would indicate a price of ten times as much. A couple hundred for a Rollei is chump change when you look at the quality of construction and the capabilities of the lenses. Beyond that, there are also some peculiar aberrations in the market which yield extraordinary quality at even lower prices -- Retinas and Pentaxes, for instance.<br>    Having given classic hardware its due (I hope), I also feel that the specific choice of camera is a distant second at best to familiarity with whatever equipment you are working with at the moment. I think good images are likely to be the result of assessing a situation you are presented with in light of what you know of your equipment's capabilities. With the folders, it is also easy to fudge a bit by carrying a couple of them in different pockets which may have different features and be loaded with different films. I actually used to carry around two Brownie Hawkeye Flash cameras, one loaded with 100 speed film and the other with 400. Combined with a couple of filters and a close-up attachment, I felt that gave me the ability to deal with about any situation that might arise. In the same vein, I have seen some extraordinary work done by Mark with a C-3 and a Holga. I can't see the harm of recommending such cameras to beginners since they put the emphasis on developing vision and shooting technique rather than obeisance to expensive hardware, which is an appropriate ordering of priorities to my thinking.

[silent1]

<i>I can't see the harm of recommending such cameras to beginners since they put the emphasis on developing vision and shooting technique rather than obeisance to expensive hardware, which is an appropriate ordering of priorities to my thinking.</i><p>

 

I agree 100%, as well as seconding the notion that the expensive lens isn't always best. My consistently best images seem to come from my Speedex Jr. (double meniscus lens, one shutter speed, f/11 to f/32) and Wirgin Auta (when I avoid bright sun, which causes reflections from the red windows -- f/6.3 to f/32, Gewironar triplet, scale focus, T, B, 25,50,100). I get my best images from other cameras -- but I get more good images per roll from these, and the sharpness and color correction of the cheap lens in the Speedex Jr. continually amazes me.