Vintage Rolleiflex TLR Parts availability?

[mike walden]

Just recieved my vintage Rolleiflex TLR. I have identified it as a

1930's 620/621. After inspecting it, all functions seem to at least

work, lenses are a little hazy, and the viewfinder 'box' pops up

when the catch is released, but, it seems the metal viewfinder box

panels are a little bent, one even has a tear in the metal edge. Can

this viewfinder box be replaced? Can one be found? Will later model

parts fit the very early models? What about lenses? ANY information

that will help steer me into some replacement stuff would be very

appreciated!

[art_haykin]

>>>>"Can this viewfinder box be replaced? Can one be found?"<<< Mike, no disrespect intended, but your questions are a bit naive. Most any part or assembly can be replaced, IF you can find it. Old Rollei buffs and repair persons will hoard parts and do some networking. This applies to many classic cameras. Your job is to identify your camera by model number and the serial number will certainly help as all are listed. The hunt is the thing. Remember, Google.com is your friend.

[kelly_flanigan1]

The "viewfinder 'box' pops up when the catch is released" happens on my mid/late 1930's Rolleiflex Standard too. It was designed to pop up.

[kelly_flanigan1]

My Standard was bought for about 30 dollars; as a junk parts camera 30 years ago; via the "risky like Ebay"; shutterbug ads. I took the shutter out; and had Marty Forscher rebuild the shutter for about 38 bucks. The scratched hood was touched up with a black technical pen. My camera is a user; all the shutter speeds are still good; 3 decades after the sticking shutter problem. I got my camera as a broken as is parts camera; and rebuilt it as a usable camera.<BR><BR> Are you a collector; or a user?<BR><BR>A collector doesnt want a mix of different vintage parts to create a camera; but wants the stock camera; as it came from the factory. Your comments about replacing the cameras parts with newer ones sounds like you are more like a user; than a collector. <IMG SRC=http://www.ezshots.com/members/tripods/images/tripods-261.jpg>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<IMG SRC=http://www.ezshots.com/members/tripods/images/tripods-262.jpg>

[mskovacs]

Mike perhaps you should contact some of the usual repair people mentioned here about overhauling your camera. If the lenses are hazy, I'll bet the mirror has yellowed too and the shutter probably needs work. It couldn't be that much more work to repair the viewfinder hood to your satisfaction. I would try to keep the camera as original as possible and resist the urge to make a Frankenstein camera. I think you're looking at least $200 (90% labour) and whether its worth it or not really depends on your desire to use it as a unique photographic tool. I put money into my 2.8E Xenotar to get the focusing fixed and shutter overhauled and it was money well spent because it improves the utility of the camera (which I actually use).

 

Kelly do you have any scans online of photos taken with this camera? I'm very interested in the look and character of the early, uncoated Tessars. Yours has the Compur Rapid shutter with 1/500?

[mike walden]

<p><b>Art:</b> Thanks Art. That pretty much answers my question. Thats exactly what I wanted to know, whether the parts are available readily, or whether it was a 'hunt' for parts.

<p><b>Kelly:</b> I know the viewfinder is supposed to pop up, I was stating that it did just that, like its supposed to do. Everything on the camera appears to work, but without putting film through it, I dunno how WELL it works. Also, mine looks JUST like yours, except it has f3.8 on the taking lens and it has a connector for a flash in the upper right front of camera face.

<p>I am not sure I want to spend that kind of money to fix this one. I may leave it alone, and resell it. Save my money and buy a newer better one.

[mike walden]

<p>Here is a scan:

<p><br>

<p>

<center><img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/eBay/rolleiflex_01.jpg" border=1></center>

[mike walden]

<p>I will try again:

<p><br><p><center>

<img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mwalden/eBay/rolleiflex_01.jpg"></center>

[mike walden]

<p>Here is the backside:

<p><br><p>

<center><img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mwalden/eBay/rolleiflex_02.jpg" border=1></center></p>

[norman_trabulus1]

Mike Walden: I have the same model you have, with the 3.8 lens. Yours has been modified not just with a flash contact but a larger focusing knob. Before reselling it, put a roll through it, using a push-on lens hood if you can find one. (28mm approx diameter). The reason I don't use mine much has nothing to do with image quality, but the greater convenience of the later models. The 3.8 tessars have a distinct and very nice quality; your taking lens appears to be in good condition with a good natural oxidation that serves as a coating and reduces flare.

 

Mike Kovacs: I have several photos posted at the following site, some of which are taken with uncoated tessars, one with the 3.8, and I indicate that on those posts: http://isquare.homeunix.net/index.cgi The digitizing and conversion to relatively low resolution jpeg format limits their utility as a gauge of lens character, however.

[tito sobrinho]

Mike: Two years ago, I bought a Standard with the 3.5 Tessar+ screen with the bubble in ex+ cosmetic as well as mechanical condition.(Bright white lettering+ shine black lacquer and no marks on it). In the process of cleaning the mirror, I found 4/35 engraved on it meaning that my camera is dated April 1935. Later on, I bought 2 more Standards due to the accessories that came with them- push on filters, bright lettering (F&H+Carl Zeiss Jena) original lens cap, lens shade, and the case. I tested the shutter speeds on my Metrolux II in order to take pictures. I got excellent "slides" and I am sorry I can not scan a picture of the camera and the pictures I took with it. Look around and for sure you will find one in better condition than yours. Regards, Tito.

[charles_stobbs2]

Hi,

A good web site to check is http://www.kyphotos.com/classics/.

In addition to the listed info there is an active forum where you can search an archive or post a question.

[kelly_flanigan1]

There is alot of Interesting stuff here!!;<BR><BR> my Standard has a circular bullseye bubble level; bonded under the ground glass; to let one set the camera vertical. The tripod socket is 3/8-16. The lens distances are in metres. Also the ground glass has an X-Y grid; of about 1 cm spacing. I am not sure if this was a factory made option; or an aftermarket conversion.

[tito sobrinho]

I have 3 Standards: The older one (Tessar f3.8 + 120&117 film), 2 Standards with Tessar f3.5 and the bubble level on the viewing screen and all of them have the engraved Y&X lines.