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prime or zoom for portraits


rob_malkin

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hello.

i am using a F100 and a F80 with; an Nikkor 50mm f1.8, a Sigma EX 17-

35mm f2.8-4, a Sigma EX 28-70mm f2.8 and a Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-6.

 

i have been asked to do some model photos and i am not sure where to

go. I have been looking at a Nikkor 85mm f1.8 and have been happy

with the results. But its the non D Nikkor and i will be using SB-

80dx's a lot so a D lens would be better.

 

SO, i was just wondering if anyone out there has been in a similar

position. I was also thinking maybe Sigma EX 70-200 f2.8.

 

thank you :-)

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Hi Rob,

 

I've been using my AFD 85/1.8 on my F100 and like you, have been very happy with the results. I don't use flash very often but the "D" will take the focussing distance into consideration when computing the flash's output for optimal exposure.

 

I have no experience with the other lenses, though.

 

Cheers,

 

Al

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The chief advantage of fixed focal length lenses is they offer you wider apertures than f/4 at focal lengths beyond 70mm (compared to your existing three lenses). That gives you more options for control of depth of field.

 

The "D" feature can be helpful in portraiture but people took a lot of fine portraits before that electronic link between lens and camera was offered.

 

The 85/1.8 is lovely.

 

The other advice about learning clients' preferences is right on target.

 

Have fun...

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You should be fine with your 28-70, and an 85 1.8 prime. The 70/80-200 zoom would also good to have on hand.

 

In my experience, zooms are more versatile when you don't have room to move about. Fast primes are useful in low/available light, and when you don't have the room to "zoom with your feet".

 

I have the 135-400 Sigma, but I don't use it for portrait work (it's too big/intimidating). I do use primes Nikkor AF 50 f1.4 D, and Nikkor AF 105 f2 D DC; and zooms AF 28-105 D, and Nikkor AF 35-70 f3.3-4.5 (non-D). All of which I swap among F100 and F601 (N6006) bodies. In the end, the poor "non-D" F601 does just as well, as the 3D, multi-balanced fill flash on the F100. Indoors, when I have time to setup/pose, I turn off all flash automation, and use hand-held flash meter = way better results.

 

Therefore, in my opinion, getting the flash off camera (SC17 cord and a flash bracket) is far more important then "D" technology or even which lens is used. Whichever lens you do choose, make sure you fit it with a proper hood.

 

Regards,

Walter Sudetic

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According to Ken Rockwell, the D feature makes very little difference (unless you are shooting into a mirror with flash).

 

Avoid using the flash or use a diffuser/umbrella with the flash off-camera (SC-17 cord).

 

The 50mm should work great for full length portraits, the 85mm will do fine for head and shoulders shots. 105mm and 135mm will give you a little more working distance and a slightly flatter perspective, but the 85mm would probably be plenty for you.

 

I would simply work on technique with the lenses and lighting you already have.

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Here's a thought: if you don't need AF, try the 105/2.5 AI manual focus lens. It's under 100$ used, and it would show you what a prime portrait lens is capable of. I use mine all the time for portraits, and love the look and feel of that lens. I got rid of all of my zooms and never looked back.
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Elliot, if he shot it at f1.8. But clearly here it wasn't. Just because the back ground is in focus doesn't mean he shot it with any particular lens. It was just shot with a particular aperture. f8 or f11 has the same depth of field on any lens, prime or zoom, set at the same focal length.
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Keep in mind that focal length does not control perspective though it "suggests" perspective. Try this simple experiment: take a position about 2m from your subject, using a 50~135, 75~150, 70~200 or 80~200, zoom in and re-frame slowly. The perspective doesn�t change but by 135 you should have a pretty tight head shot. When watching a movie note the dolly shots. The perspective does changes with the camera distance.

 

---

 

Some like fast film, others like fast lenses.

 

All the best,

 

Dave.

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David, i think what you said is what Elliot ment to say, or what i didn't read, if that makes sence. Also to test and prove perspective, take three shots on a tripod, 28mm,35mm,50mm. then crop the 28 and 35 shots to match the frame of the 50.
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