Cold weather and LF work

[allen_cairns]

This is my first winter using a 4x5 camera and am interested in

hearing what considerations there are for using view cameras in the

cold. Thanks for any help.

[bob haight]

If your working in snow, keep up with your gear, such as the loupe, level, film holders, dark cloth, etc. Hard to use the stuff all wet and cold or lost from falling in the snow. (and there are great photos to be be made the morning after a new snow)

[mskovacs]

Note I'm at a wannabe stage for LF work but I've shot with a well-seasoned LF photographer in cold, winter, mountain conditions. When you are working with the ground glass, HOLD YOUR BREATH. If you fog/freeze your ground glass its difficult to continue working. I've often wondered since then whether a snorkel would work well!

 

I can also imagine leaf shutters having issues beyond a certain temperature.

[pvp]

A dedicated photo vest is useful, with lots of pockets to keep things at hand. Also, <I>use</I> the cords on your loupe and meter to hang them around your neck, that's what they're for. Not breathing on the GG is good advice, but it won't hurt the photo, just makes it hard to focus. Breathing on the lens is another matter: don't do it. Plan ahead, visualize the motions you need to go through in setting up and allow for the conditions. Large plastic trash bags have a myriad of uses. Sticking shutters shouldn't be a problem IF they are lubricated properly, but it's not a bad idea to test that before you hike in somewhere. An assistant to hold an umbrella over the camera is as useful in the snow as in the rain, not to mention adding someone to talk to!

[john_cook1]

If it gets really cold, the shutter will stick. Also, low temperatures mean low humidity. Remove and insert the film holder slide slowly to avoid static sparks on the film.

[Troll]

Why would you want to do THAT? Bill (Sarasota, FL)

[ed_pierce2]

Thin polypro gloves fit under regular gloves, and give your fingers some protection while working with the camera.

[gone nomad]

The thin polypro gloves are a good start. I used to work as a mountain guide in South America and Alaska. My favorite choice of gloves was thin polypro with fingerless fleece gloves over them. I prefer the fingerless gloves with a leather palm. When I wasn't trying to fiddle with small gadgets I kept my fingers in mittens. My rationale for the whole setup was this.

 

Polypro gives you the sensitivity you need; however, they aren't very durable or warm (ok, they are better than nothing).

 

The fingerless gloves keep your hands warmer and increase the durability of the polypro gloves.

 

You should be able to find everything you want/need at rei, ems, or mec.

[cxc]

Be careful about bringing lenses from the cold outside into a warm car or building. Some say it is best to leave stuff in the unheated trunk rather than the heated interior of the car while driving, and maybe also overnight.

[harold_levie]

Also regarding bringing lenses (and meters, filmholders, etc.) in from the cold: if the item is sealed into a plastic bag while still outside, it can be brought inside and all of the condensation will occur on the outside of the bag where it will do no harm. Just be patient and don't open the bag until the contents have warmed up enough to avoid condensation.

[oyvind_d]

Do not develop Polaroid 55 film until your are inside, and the film is 20°C.

 

Listen to the snow when you walk (gnerk, gnerk, gnerk... ;-)

 

Standing still is much colder than walking, bring something to stand on, and maybe add more cloth. Do not underestimate other creatures possibillity for freezing (children, dogs, wife etc)

 

Øyvind:D

[eirik_berger]

I allways wear pure wool underwear and socks when I am photographing i n low temperatures. It will keep you warm even if you get wet. If it is really cold I use a face mask to prevent humididy from my breath to reach the groundglass.

Your hands and feet will get cold first, so remember to wear warm shoes and use gloves as mentioned above. I use wool on my hands too

 

Someone has allready told you this before, but remember to keep your gear (evertything but your tripod) away from the snow.

 

Bring warm tea, coffee, warm chocolate or something warm to drink between the shots.

 

I have never experienced my shutters to stick even in extreme low temperatures.

 

My biggest problem in winter photography is the low light. Above the arctic circle the sun is gone during the winter, which makes focusing a problem.

 

Good luck Allen.

 

 

Eirik

[allen_cairns]

This was my first inquiry on Photo.net. Not sure why I waited so long, now. Thanks for all of your great replies. They are quite helpful. I'm still struggling with how to drink my scotch while breathing through the snorkel, but where there is a will there is a way.

 

To Bill Mitchell - Why? That's an emminently reasonable question. Although I've seen pix of Clyde Butcher up to his armpits in alligator swamps in FL. and I'm not sure which makes the most sense.

[mark_sampson]

A wooden tripod would be a good idea. Metal ones like mine get really cold.Fingerless gloves help- get ones made of modern materials, as ragg-wool types shed fibers all over, including on your film holders.

Be careful if your camera has plastic bellows; mine does and they stiffen up in the cold. The scotch works best after you're done shooting, at least by my experience...especially if the scotch is twelve years old.

[ian_everhov]

Like some others have stated, your own well beeing is prio 1, a cold and frozen photog don´t take great photographs. Gloves, very important, don´t be cheap, buy really good hunters/shooters gloves together with som high quality boots. Fog on the groundglass from exhaling under the dark-cloth is imho the biggest problem shooting LF in cold weather, that and the coldness of my Gitzo tripod, i would love a carbon fiber tripod or maybe a wooden one. Good luck and don´t forget a really warm lid on your head, as standing still in really cold weather waiting for the right-light does tend to be a chilly experience.

[tim_atherton2]

Bill - why?

 

If I didn't, I wouldn't take any photogoraphs (or get paid...) between about October and May!

[mskovacs]

Regarding metal tripods, I took mine apart and slid closed cell pipe insulation (home depot or the like) over the thickest section. Makes it much more tolerable to hold in the cold. You can buy the type with a slit cut up the side but by taking mine apart I could just slide them in and have a totally closed solution that won't slip off in the field.

 

John Shaw describes how to make snow shoes for your tripod legs in one of his books. Haven't tried that yet but I have had problems with tripods sinking into the snow before.

[steve_baggett]

<i>I've often wondered since then whether a snorkel would work well! </i><br><br>

It would probably work but you'd look awfully funny. Might even get arrested, for something. What does work is about 12-14 inches of plastic tubing of 1/4-1/2 ID, from any hardware store. Let it curl downward against your chest, inhale through your nose, and exhale through the tube to keep the GG from fogging under the darkcloth. I tried straws, but can't get enough "wind" through those.

[oskar_ojala]

Wear very warm clothes; you'll be standing still a lot of the time. If you're using a metal tripod, pad the legs with foamcore or similar: even with gloves the metal is very cold to the touch. Wear reasonably thin gloves for operating the camera and thick gloves on them when you're not using finer controls such as setting the aperture.

 

Forget the scotch while outside, alcohol just makes getting frostbite easier (when your back at the house is another matter, I prefer to keep the sauna warm). And remember to quit in time; you need to watch out for frostbite and fatigue (and when you're tired, your pics won't be as good...)