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Experiences with Macrophotography with Hasselblad 503cw


maktime

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Berry,

 

I didn't measure the working distance, but it was very short at 3:1, and grew larger as I

went towards 1:1. I was following the chart in one of the Close-up Photography guides

VH-AB published in the '70s as to the extension and focus distance on the lens for several

reproduction ratios. I went from 3:1 (using the bellows at 18cm with a 55 tube and a

certain setting on the lens focus) through to 1:1. I'll have to check my exposure notes for

the exact details. All my Velvia shots had excellent exposure. When I had shot the Tech

Pan shots, I forgot to compensate from the flash's chart (100 ASA) to the films slower

speed (2 stops) so my first few frames were underexposed. That is why most shooters of

static macro subjects use polaroid backs to check these things. I will be getting one of

these backs, but have had other priorities in filling-out my Hasselblad kit.

 

Thanks for nudging me to start experimenting with my macro equipment. I am also a

hobbyist. You may want to consider picking up a few of the Close-up Photography guides

from the auction site, since they go into much more detail than I can here, and the charts

and tables are quite useful. The different versions cover different stages in the evolution of

the system, so I got more than one to cover the whole range, since I have mostly acquired

the older close-up accessories.

 

Taras

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Berry,<br><br>Just a quick note to avoid possible confusion.<br>When i mentioned a clear focussing screen, i did not mean a screen without focussing aids like split image rangefinders, but a focussing screen without a matte surface: just a Fresnel lens below a clear piece of glass, and a reference cross. Very bright, very useful in "high" magnification photography, but you need to practice parallax focussing.<br>
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Yes, there is that too-wide collar issue with the old bellows and the newer cameras. I forgot, sorry!<br><br>The entire bellows setup not being a fast moving thing frees us from one other "operational restriction" that comes with using the old style non-auto bellows: the double cable release. I always found the double cable release a pain to set, and consequently haven't used one anymore for many, many years.<br><br>The way to procede when using the non-auto bellows and a simple/single cable release:<br><br>1) Use the cable release, attached to the front standard of the bellows to close the lens shutter and diaphragm. Make sure to push the cable release only far enough to close the lens. Pushing it all the way will trip the shutter, which we do not want yet at this stage.<br>2) Prerelease the camera, using the prerelease button on the right side of the body.<br>3) Wait for all vibrations to die away. Stretch your legs, read the paper, or have a cup of tea. ;-)<br>4) Expose by pushing the cable release all the way, releasing it after the exposure is completed.<br>5) Cycle the body: press the body's shutter release, and rewind the body/film.<br>6) Rewind the lens using the rewind knob on the bellows' front standard, opening the shutter and diaphragm.<br>That's it.
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Berry,

 

Tripods, I use- Several- from table top to carbon fiber to an aluminum Sachtler with a 75mm ball head. In case you do not have a good tripod, use whatever stable thing is around you (flat wall, tree trunk, rock, ...).

 

Carl Zeiss S-Planar 74mm f/4 lens for M = 1:1 was made for copy work.

Not for any particular camera. I find it better than any other lenses

made for a camera.

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