tarashnat Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Berry, I didn't measure the working distance, but it was very short at 3:1, and grew larger as I went towards 1:1. I was following the chart in one of the Close-up Photography guides VH-AB published in the '70s as to the extension and focus distance on the lens for several reproduction ratios. I went from 3:1 (using the bellows at 18cm with a 55 tube and a certain setting on the lens focus) through to 1:1. I'll have to check my exposure notes for the exact details. All my Velvia shots had excellent exposure. When I had shot the Tech Pan shots, I forgot to compensate from the flash's chart (100 ASA) to the films slower speed (2 stops) so my first few frames were underexposed. That is why most shooters of static macro subjects use polaroid backs to check these things. I will be getting one of these backs, but have had other priorities in filling-out my Hasselblad kit. Thanks for nudging me to start experimenting with my macro equipment. I am also a hobbyist. You may want to consider picking up a few of the Close-up Photography guides from the auction site, since they go into much more detail than I can here, and the charts and tables are quite useful. The different versions cover different stages in the evolution of the system, so I got more than one to cover the whole range, since I have mostly acquired the older close-up accessories. Taras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted March 13, 2004 Share Posted March 13, 2004 Berry,<br><br>Just a quick note to avoid possible confusion.<br>When i mentioned a clear focussing screen, i did not mean a screen without focussing aids like split image rangefinders, but a focussing screen without a matte surface: just a Fresnel lens below a clear piece of glass, and a reference cross. Very bright, very useful in "high" magnification photography, but you need to practice parallax focussing.<br> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted March 13, 2004 Share Posted March 13, 2004 Yes, there is that too-wide collar issue with the old bellows and the newer cameras. I forgot, sorry!<br><br>The entire bellows setup not being a fast moving thing frees us from one other "operational restriction" that comes with using the old style non-auto bellows: the double cable release. I always found the double cable release a pain to set, and consequently haven't used one anymore for many, many years.<br><br>The way to procede when using the non-auto bellows and a simple/single cable release:<br><br>1) Use the cable release, attached to the front standard of the bellows to close the lens shutter and diaphragm. Make sure to push the cable release only far enough to close the lens. Pushing it all the way will trip the shutter, which we do not want yet at this stage.<br>2) Prerelease the camera, using the prerelease button on the right side of the body.<br>3) Wait for all vibrations to die away. Stretch your legs, read the paper, or have a cup of tea. ;-)<br>4) Expose by pushing the cable release all the way, releasing it after the exposure is completed.<br>5) Cycle the body: press the body's shutter release, and rewind the body/film.<br>6) Rewind the lens using the rewind knob on the bellows' front standard, opening the shutter and diaphragm.<br>That's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarashnat Posted March 13, 2004 Share Posted March 13, 2004 Berry, I've uploaded a few of the color photos that I took using the bellows and macro flash. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=383242 I'll have to remember to dust off my subjects next time... Taras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivek iyer Posted March 13, 2004 Share Posted March 13, 2004 Berry, Tripods, I use- Several- from table top to carbon fiber to an aluminum Sachtler with a 75mm ball head. In case you do not have a good tripod, use whatever stable thing is around you (flat wall, tree trunk, rock, ...). Carl Zeiss S-Planar 74mm f/4 lens for M = 1:1 was made for copy work. Not for any particular camera. I find it better than any other lenses made for a camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarashnat Posted March 22, 2004 Share Posted March 22, 2004 I guess one can use an extension tube between the camera and the older style bellows to avoid the too wide collar issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsms photos Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Hi, Vivek (& Kornelius) are darn right - the S-Planar 4/74mm is a tack sharp lens, no distortion at all, extreme flatfield. If someone need one, let me know, I have a spare one. Looks like my other one: <a href="http://www.macrolenses.de/ml_detail.php?ObjektiveNr=76">S-Planar 4/74mm</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now