What non-Nikon electronic flash would you suggest for my Nikon FM3A ?

[rolpahof leikonblad]

My Vivitar 283 flash breaks down. I need a new one to take advantage

of the TTL feature of my Nikon FM3A. For me, the Nikon flashes are

too expensive. Which non-Nikon flash would you recommend?

[al_kaplan1]

Buy a new inexpensive Vivitar 283. TTL flash is not going to give you more accurate exposure in 99.99% of your photos. It's just a way to get you to buy the camera manufacturers' over priced flash units. The 283 has been on the market in its current form for nearly 25 years! It's been used by thousands of profesionals. Lots of accessories have been made for it from Vivitar and others. I've never had a problem with my 283 giving bad exposures either direct or bounce.

[rolpahof leikonblad]

I used to have two Vivitar 283s and lots of accessories. They broke down after I turned them on and forgot to turn them off for a long long time, at least few weeks. I am afriad I would do the same stupid things again. Anyway, buying another new 283 is an option that I do not rule out. Thanks for your advice.

[mark_bouquet1]

I recently bought a Metz 44 MZ-2 to use with my Olympus OM cameras. It wasn't inexpensive, but I think it was worth the money. A great advantage is that it's adaptable to virtually any camera you choose to use it with, offering most if not all of the technology the OEM dedicated units offer. In addition to TTL, it offers sensor autoflash at every whole stop from f/1 to f/45, which is quite a bit more versatility than the similar Vivitar and Sunpak units. In manual mode it has fractional power output in eight steps, from 1/2 to 1/256, which is indispensible if you do close up work, and again is far beyond the abilities of the Vivitars and Sunpaks. Coverage is to 28mm in 35mm format, and 21mm with a simple diffuser. The LCD display is intuitive, logical, and tells you most everything you need to know in every operating mode. The bottom line, in my opinion, is that the Metz unit does exactly what you've decided you want it to do without complaining, while with the Vivitars and Sunpaks you have to make your best choice within the more limited available range of functions.

[mark_bouquet1]

Oh, and the Metz has an auto off after two minutes function, which can be overidden if you choose.

[charles_miller]

I've used a couple of inexpensive third party flashes, and here are a few things to try to avoid.

 

The flash has little slide switches that get knocked off their settings when you put the unit in the case or take it out.

 

The flash doesn't even manually zoom, so its range with telephoto lenses is limited for its size, and it eats batteries with telephoto lenses.

 

Even disregarding the Nikon "D" feature and the monitor preflash feature, some third party flashes have compatibility problems with some Nikon bodies. Typically, as the batteries in the flash get low, the ready light on the flash will come on, but the ready light in the camera body does not. The flash works fine otherwise, so you lose time trying to troubleshoot the problem.

 

The flash foot isn't a good physical fit for the shoe on the camera, it is eihter too tight or too loose.

 

The flash is powerful, but when you try to take close up shots, they come out over exposed because the flash electronics are incapable of quenching the light output really quickly.

 

Having said all that, I think Vivitar, Sunpak, and Promaster make acceptable and economical products which may provide all the function and quality you need.

 

The Promasters are economical and have a separate TTL control module which is cheap and easy to replace if you accidentally knock the flash around.

[david_h._hartman]

I�ll recommend a Nikon SB-15, 24 or 25. The SB-24 and 25 have features the FM3a does not support but that doesn�t matter to me. I prefer the SB-24 over any other speedlight I�ve used with the FE2. The FM3a despite its name is an FE family camera and clearly based on the FE2. The SB-15 is a small unit that works nicely with the FM3a and FE2. It has less features but prices should be good. The SB-25 may be easier to get parts for if repair is needed. The SB-25 would be my top choice.

 

The Vivitar 285HV does not support TTL-OFT flash but it's a work horse and an excellent value. It'd buy it new. I recommend against the 283 if you plan to use any accessories as the cost of the 283 will be more than the 285HV since many accessories are included with the 285HV. The calculator dial is easier to use on the 285HV v. the 283.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Dave.

[edgard_engelman]

I have a Metz 32 MZ-3 since 8 years. Not a single problem.

You can use it in TTL mode , auto mode (choice of 3 f/stops), or manual mode.

It is not brand dedicated, so you can use it with any camera.

I use it on a Nikon F601 (supports all functions including TTL), a digital Coolpix 5700 in auto mode, and a Kodak Retina Reflex S, on a bracket with a PC sync cord.

 

The other real option is a Vivitar 283 or 285.

[douglas_green1]

I like the Sunpak 433D, with the Dedicated Nikon TTL module. They show up all the time on ebay for $30-50.

[Brian1664876441]

I use an SB-15 on my FE2. I paid $50 for it mint, used. It can be turned sideways to balance on the small body. I also use a second SB15 on a D1x at work. I, and the Nikon rep, did not realize the limits on the D1x when using TTL flash. The built in sensor works perfectly with most cameras.

 

Elvis saw my Vivitar 283, and it still works. I did replace the hot shoe with a metal one, the original ones break easily. When used atop the FM, the 283 will roll it over: just to heavy and high. I use it mostly on an ELw with winder attached these days.

[paul_k1664875007]

Metz

 

I'm a long time user of a 36CT2 and 60CT4 on everything between a F801 (US 8008) to a F100, with only the simple SCA 343 adapter (and not the far more expensive 346/2 AF, or whatever the type description is) and had excellent result. Though I have D lenses, I never trusted that part of the flash function, so didn't need that part.

 

I'm sure the newer types will do equally well, but the oldies still hold their ground.

 

My two cents

[russ_butner___portland__or]

Dave,

 

The Sunpak 433D is cheap, very reliable and TTL compatible with your camera. I use mine very often for important assignments, and it has yet to fail me. Has the same guide # as the very good Vivitar 285 ( guide # of 120)You can also purchase their Tele-Fil Kit TL-8, which is a manual zoom & bounce head that attaches to it, which greatly extends the flash distance. I have used it with my longer lenses in TTL mode on my FE-2, with very reliable consistent results. Both of these are quite cheap on the used market.

 

QLP

[rolpahof leikonblad]

Thanks QLP. You have answered exactly what I want to ask.

I will buy a Sunpak 433D. It just meets all my requirements:"cheap, very reliable and TTL compatible with" my Nikon FM3A. TTL may not be that important, but it's a plus anyway. I will also buy a used Vivitar 283 as a back up as I have lots of accessories.

Thanks all the folks here for the inputs.