Red Eye Reduction- N65

[raj_gj]

I have N65, when I try using red eye reduction function with Nikon

28-200 lens, shutter takes a li'l longer time to release, when I

fully depress the shutter release button.

 

Is it normal?

 

Raj

[hal_bissinger]

Don't know why that would happen but I do know that so called "red eye reduction" is just a waste of time and an annoyance to your subject. Don't bother using it, that should solve the problem.

[aardvarko]

"Red-eye reduction" works by shining some kind of bright light into the eyes of your subjects, such that their irises contract, preventing the flash from reflecting off of the back of their eyeballs. It takes a little time 'cause you have to shine a light long enough for their eyes to react and contract. Or you could just take your flash off-camera and put it a bit to one side...

[jim_gifford]

Yes, normal.

 

Not very effective.

 

Better to have a flash far enough above the lens axis so red-eye is not a factor. Try for at least an inch of height above the lens for every three feet of subject-to-camera distance (so if your subject is nine feet from the lens, have the flash three or more inches above the lens).

[jim schwaiger]

I bought a used SB-22 for about $100 online that totally eliminates red-eye and has a lot more power than the little built-in light. I never use the little flash anymore. Any TTL flash will work great.

[david_h._hartman]

Just DO NOT press the shutter release extra harder trying to make it work faster. You can smash the shutter release switch doing that. Last I knew the module that holds the switch cost $65.00. The switch is not available as a separate part. This kind of damage is not covered under warranty.

 

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Don�t even bother with red eye reduction. At best It annoys your subjects. It�s only there because snap shooters think it has value.

 

Get a cobra style flash so the distance from the lens is greater. Use bounce flash (requires power) with a fill card. If you shoot verticals with flash you really need an SC-17 TTL Cord and a flip bracket that keeps the flash high above the lens. Those where you hold the camera normally and not the bracket are best. You can control an AF camera with the right hand and if using a zoom you can zoom with the left.

 

With a light AF camera you can easily hold an accessory flash at arms length above the camera and to one side or another as press photographers did in the �40s and �50s. Again you need an SC-17 TTL Cord and power so you can use a wide angle setting on the flash. A clip-on or snap-on holster for a driver-drill is convenient to hold the flash when two hand are needed on the camera such as changing lenses or film.

 

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Again please don�t smash the shutter release switch.

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

[david_h._hartman]

BTW please don�t take offense if you know not to use force on a camera. Many don�t and a friend who repairs them sees a number of N65(s) will this damage.

[raj_gj]

Thank you all for your response.

 

Thanks very much Dave for your suggestions, though I don't force my camera, I would be more careful.

 

Raj