Just which Rolleiflex is this?

[leonard_isaksson]

Hi, there is a Rolleiflex that I am thinking about purchase of on

eBay, given that one would win the auction.

 

I know that this kind of question is asked, and I have read those

threads to try to discern what is up for bid. However, I am not sure

about it.

 

It is a TLR with a Zeiss Opton 1:3.5 Tessar picture taking lens, and

the Heidosmat viewing lens, with the Synchro Compur shutter, and it

says Francke and I cannot recall the other, but it is what you always

see with that age of Rollei. It says the DRP DRGM on the bottom, so

according to one thread here, it sounds like it was made from 1933 to

1950.

 

The leather is supposed to be in very good condition, it was well

cared for. It has not been used in years. The lens are reported to

be without scratches. From all of the pictures, it looks to be in

excellent condition, the camera. There is the leather case for it,

which has had some rubs and so forth as it was carried around and used

by the fellow.

 

Anyway, the lens should be a good lens for picture taking, which is

what I am interested in. I was interested in a Hasselblad, which I

still am, but I cannot help but want to see what kind of pictures I

may get with a Rolleiflex, and they are supposed to be quiet, too, not

to mention the budget savings. That advice about not being in a hurry

to spend boucoups dollars on a medium format camera is good advice. I

could just go and buy a more expensive camera, but since these Rollei

TLRs are supposed to take good pictures, I am interested.

 

Now, what model name is a camera like this one? When did the C,D,E

come along, and where does an MX fit in to the Rollei scheme of

things. Are all of those models C,D, etc 2.8 lens, or are some 3.5?

 

Thank you kindly for any help given on this.

 

Leonard

[mskovacs]

Check out the <a href="http://www.rolleiclub.com">Rollei Club website.</a> It has photos and a feature list of all Rollei TLRs ever made. The info you provide is too incomplete to tell you exactly which model but its probably a late model automat. Do you have the serial number of the camera (top of the rolleiflex nameplate). If it has numbers engraved on the front of the shutter speed dial and the larger style focusing knob, its the MX-EVS model which is one of the better Tessar-equipped 'flexes.

[mskovacs]

OH yeah...if you're after Hasselblad quality you probably want a Planar or Xenotar camera not a Tessar or Xenar. The latter pair need quite a bit of stopping down to get sharpness in the corners.

[leonard_isaksson]

Thanks Mike, for your reply to me. It has taken some time to get back here, as my browsers quit three times on me, just as I was looking at the pictures on eBay, and as I was writing a reply to you here.

 

Yes, the camera has the serial number on the Rolleiflex plate, and it has numerals on the shutter speed dial.

 

It was used by a journalist in the Korean war.

 

Thanks also for the thought about the lens. It is the Planar lens that was used on these C,D,E, etc, isn't it?

 

That is what I should be looking for. The person who put up the Rollei, I get along with well, and I will see what the camera will go for, but I should be thinking about the better lens, as I love fine quality in pictures.

 

Thanks,

 

Leonard

[mskovacs]

Don't discount the Xenotar lens either. Here's a photo of my 2.8E type 1.<p><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1927330&size=md"><p><i>Rolleiflex 2.8E Type 1 - F3HP, AI 55/3.5 micro, Velvia</i>

[mskovacs]

There's no way that it can be an MX-EVS AND used in the Korean war. It wasn't produced until 1954. My 2.8E also has the same MX-EVS feature with the EV values written on the shutter.

 

What is the serial?

[patric_dahl_n]

It's probably an early "MX", also called a 3,5A model since it has a Zeiss-Opton Tessar and a Syncro-Compur shutter.

[patric_dahl_n]

Yes, I was correct. I found the auction. It's an early 3,5A ("MX"), made between 1951-54.

[leonard_isaksson]

Hi there you two fellows.

 

Thank you very much for the information, to a neophyte. The serial number is 1224874. From the Rollei site that you provided on that link, it was one of those EV that you spoke of, I believe.

 

By the way, thank you very much for that link to that site. I joined that, so that I may be able to find out such things in the future. Thanks also for the picture of the 2.8E.

 

That is the camera type, one of that range of models that you have, that I was thinking that I would like to lay hold of.

 

Anyway, someone by some nefarious means took over my account on eBay. They changed the mail address, keeping my 'name'. I don't know how this was done. I did not have an alphanumeric password, but an alphabetic one. Must be some desperate people. As soon as I read that eBay approved of my changing my address, I mailed them to tell them I most certainly had not, and I found the address of the person that it had been changed to, and the ISP #. So, then they froze the account. Now, since it seems to take long for them to be on their chat security office, I am having to wait for further communication to happen by email, to get the use of my own account back. I had 100% good feedback, as a customer, and I would rather keep that than having to start over, even if it is not for a huge amount of business.

 

I am only writing this on here, as an aside, as it can happen to anyone, it seems.

 

One must have alphanumeric passwords, and different ones(which I always have), for all of your accounts, I reckon.

 

So I hope that if you fellows read that, that someone may be spared the difficulties.

 

Thank you for your input to me, it was helpful. Now if I can get my identity back to see how that auction goes.

 

Leonard

[mskovacs]

The usual way for people to hijack ebay accounts these days is through email. They send you a message from "ebay" with a link to a site that you think is ebay, you enter the information they want and they hijack your account. Be careful...same deal is done with paypal. NEVER enter ebay or paypal from an email link, always open your web browser and enter sensitive information directly on the website.

 

Have a look on the archives here. There's loads of info on Planar vs Xenotar, Tessar vs Planar etc. You'll want to become familiar with the usual Rolleiflex problems and you should certainly budget for a clean, lube and adjust (CLA) since many of these cameras are 40-50 years old.

[leonard_isaksson]

Hi Mike:

 

Thanks for the information that you have shared. I am going to see what that one camera that the person I know has up for auction will go for. However, I am strongly thinking also about one of the more recent, or at least a little more recent, Rolleiflexes.

 

Thank you for your inputs to me, I appreciate it. I have poked around some on the archives, I have much curiousity. Yes, I figure on a CLA.

 

You know, I think what you are talking about happened to me. I did have this email thing, but it so seemed like eBay, and there was a suspension that happened, unless all of that was bogus. At the same time, I have had occurrences wherein a mail did not go through at Apple, where I have email, and so it seemed reasonable.

 

It angers me, I wish that I could get hold of the folks that did this, and throw them into the cold of Lake Superior.

 

Anyway, I now await eBay to reinstate me. They have sent me a mail, saying what to do, but their wheels turn slowly, especially on weekends, or at least, that is what I have found.

 

Yes, I am going to poke around on this worthwhile resource that photo.net is, and learn more.

 

Thanks again, good of you to respond.

 

Leonard

[jay_.]

I've got Rolleiflex # 1261xxx, it's an "MX" Automat IV, has the Zeiss-Opton Tessar. I got mine for $300 just after it had been completely CLA'd by Harry Fleenor, it included a worn but intact ERC, a shade and one of the mirrored caps. I picked up a couple Rollei Bay1 UV filters to protect the lenses and added a Beattie screen. It's one of my favorite cameras, smaller and lighter than my 2.8F Planar which I now use only when I want the eyelevel prism. I'm not much into shooting either of them wide open, so I can't really tell too much difference between them optically.