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explain flashes to me?


genevieve_leigh

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sorry, beginner here. i am trying to build my nikon system and i was

wondering what kind of flash to get. since i need to get the flash

before my photography how-to books arrive (ugh, don't ask why), i

don't really know where to begin. i wanted to take portraits, some

landscapes, and some macro stuff, most of which will be during

sometime when the sun is still up. my friend suggested the sb-80,

but i don't know the difference...can someone please explain to me

what the sb stands for and what the numbers mean? thanks!

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Genevieve,

 

I've been doing some flash research myself. I haven't learned anything significant yet, however I have discovered that one key question is what type of camera you are using. Therefore you might want to post that information so your question can be answered by someone that knows.

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Looks like another case of NAS (Nikon Acquisition Syndrome). That setup is quite impressive for a "beginner". Kinda like getting a custom Porshe on your 16th birthday.

 

It's quite a challenge to learn a new body, 3 lenses and a flash all at once. Let me suggest that you shelve 2 of the lenses and start learning the body (exposure, controls, etc) and one lens (maybe the simpler, smaller 50mm). Maybe wait on the flash unless you have a specific need (if the money is burning a hole in your pocket, the SB-80 is certainly in line with your other purchases.

 

If you can take images without the flash, they will look significantly better. In other words, use a fast lens or wait for good natural light when possible. With some fast film, you can even do pretty good indoor/low-light photography with those lenses, especially the 50mm.

 

Landscapes are seldom better with a flash, but I have seen a handful of good landscape-flash shots. Portraits with a direct flash are often poor looking as well. You either need to get it off camera or bounce it off a white ceiling or wall.

 

Macro shots with flash are difficult to do well also. The zoom lenses may actually block a portion of the flash lighting, so many use ring-flashes for macro stuff. Some flashes also have a minimum flash distance that may come into play with macro shots -- basically the lowest power flash may blow everything out.

 

SB-80 is simply the model number and it may have some obscure meaning to Nikon, but the really meaningful things are the Guide Number, coverage angle(s), recycle time, compensation options, flash modes, etc.

 

It may actually be a good idea to learn the limits of your existing fast lenses, so you will not overuse the flash when you get it.

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if you bought the lenses new, i think you might seriously consider

bringing back the 28-70 for a 17-35 or 20-35 zoom. this would help

your wide range. with the 28-70, you only gain 28-35 where as with

the wide zoom, you'll get 17(20) to 35mm. 28mm is not nearly wide

enough for many situations. anyway, what a kit!! i, on the other

hand, just bought my second zoom/first AF. push and pull 35-70 2.8

hell yeah!!

 

oh...get the flash later. get a n80, now with two bodies...you are a

rising PJ!! hahaha!! hmmm...yeah i'm feeling good today. i'm going

shooting!! been in the darkroom for the past week and a half.

 

best!

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BTW, Genevieve, don't get put off by the comments on your kit, including mine.

They're not meant as criticism, only admiration.

 

As for flash, I agree with Jim S. Unless you must (photo course, maybe) forget it for a

while. Flash photography is difficult, and very often disappointing, until you get the

hang of it.

 

If you do buy a flash and start shooting away with it, read both the camera and the

flash manuals carefully, experiment and, above all, take notes of your settings for

each picture. Start with one setting on the flash, say TTL. Then change whatever on

your camera: metering method (matrix, spot...), exposure mode (aperture priority,

program...), apertures... Then go to, say, A(utomatic), and start over. Of course, not

all combinations of flash settings and camera setttings will be available.

 

The key words here are: experiment and notes. And keep at it.

 

Have fun. If you're eager to see the results (who wouldn't be?) shoot in color or in C-

41 b&w (T400CN or XP2.) Then you can have your films processed in one hour at

most labs.

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SB-80 is a fine flash, and will be a nice addition. Get an SC-17 cord at the same time while you're spending money (they're 'stupid expensive', and it seems to hurt more when you buy them all by themselves).

 

With due respect to the others who think you're getting too much kit at once (to learn it all) I think the flash is a good step. An F100 with Nikon flash and AF normal zoom is a very easy rig to use. At family events I often set one up in 'program', AF to S, locked on center sensor; then I let my unskilled relatives shoot away with it. Other than some odd compositions, they usually turn out well-exposed and focused images.

 

For sure, mastering the flash and understanding the limits of automation is a whole 'nother thing. It's just that flash is one of the primary reasons I pick up an F100; if I'm not using a flash, I'm more likely to use one of my older manual focus bodies.

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The SB-28, SB-28DX, SB-80DX or new SB-800DX would all be terrific additions to your setup.

 

The "DX" designation means the flash will work in TTL mode with Nikon's digital SLR bodies. Those flashes work fine on film bodies too. Your F100 will work with many Nikon speedlights in matrix balanced fill flash mode, and in less sophistcated flash modes it will work with LOTS of speedlight models.

 

The SC-17 cord ($$$) allows you to put the flash on a bracket while retaining all the whiz-bang flash control you'd have if the unit were right on the F100's hot shoe.

 

SB is just the standard product prefix for Nikon flash units. The numbers that follow "SB" do not mean much. Specifications are available on the www.nikonusa.com web site.

 

Have fun shopping.

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Nice first kit - really a Porsche...

My opinion - it really depends on the kind of work you're doing. If you're are bent on getting a flash, the SB80 DX would be a fine addition. However, landscapes, night shots and many a portraits dont tend to require flash ever - this has been my experience over 2.5 - 3 years.

--Naveen

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