leo_djiwatampu Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 So how do you make low key pics? <br>Do you follow your handheld meter? <br>Say the sky is getting dark, the meter suggested that at f16 the speed should be 1 sec. Should I use this combo, or should I stop down? I want the lighting to be similar to <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1885388">this</a>, but maybe without the bright spot. <p>Thanks, <br>Leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakley Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Start with a low-key subject - something with a small area of bright illumination in the frame, but mostly dark. Meter incident. "Underexpose" (compared to the incident reading) two stops; bracket. Observe results, adjust, repeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_. Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 pre-visualize the scene you want the print to be and meter a spot that will be close to midtune (in this case will be the slightly bright spot as you want the scene to be darker), then shoot with that. Or I will simply meter my hand (Asian) and stop down 1 to 1-1/2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph_barker Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 <p>Although the definition of "low key" can be debated, the key to getting what you want is to <i>interpret</i>, rather than follow, the meter reading. Remember, the exposure value suggested by the meter will result in whatever is being metered being rendered as (or, averaged to) a middle tone (Zone V in Zone System terms). So, the first step is to know (or see) what the meter is reading (spot meters excel here), and then "place" that value where you want it.</p> <p>In the <u><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1885388">example image</a></u>, for example, I might spot meter a mid-tone area in the clouds (a darker area that I want as a Zone V value) as the starting point. Then, I'd meter other areas to see where they would fall in relation the the mid-tone cloud area. That way, I can use an exposure that will place the various elements in the scene where I want them, brightness-wise. So, even though the film is being developed normally, aspects of the basic concepts of the Zone System can be used effectively with color or normally-developed B&W.</p> <center> <img src="http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/misc/Travel/stonehenge-350m.jpg"> </center> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billsr Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 The old timers used to say "expose for the highlights, let the shadows take care of themselves". Works for me. Best regards, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bong Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Bill, shouldn't that be "expose for the shadows...?" Or are you assuming slide film? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkpainter Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Bong, Actually (Saint) Ralph Gibson says the same thing. www.ralphgibson.com I have always metered for whatever I am taking a picture of. Sounds simple huh? Of course, if I am taking a picture of a shadow.... jmp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin m. Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 The saying is "Expose for shadows; develop for highlights." But that's referring to B&W negative film. Exposing for highlights works well with Kodachrome as it has an apparently limitless ability to record shadow detail, but getting a digital scan that comes close to the original is another matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billsr Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 I should have clarified my previous post by saying that I worked with Kodachrome when I exposed for highlights! Sorry for the confusion. Best Regards, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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