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How to create low key pics?


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So how do you make low key pics?

<br>Do you follow your handheld meter?

<br>Say the sky is getting dark, the meter suggested that at f16 the

speed should be 1 sec. Should I use this combo, or should I stop

down? I want the lighting to be similar to <a

href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1885388">this</a>,

but maybe without the bright spot.

 

<p>Thanks,

<br>Leo

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pre-visualize the scene you want the print to be and meter a spot that will be close to midtune (in this case will be the slightly bright spot as you want the scene to be darker), then shoot with that. Or I will simply meter my hand (Asian) and stop down 1 to 1-1/2.
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<p>Although the definition of "low key" can be debated, the key to getting what you want is to <i>interpret</i>, rather than follow, the meter reading. Remember, the exposure value suggested by the meter will result in whatever is being metered being rendered as (or, averaged to) a middle tone (Zone V in Zone System terms). So, the first step is to know (or see) what the meter is reading (spot meters excel here), and then "place" that value where you want it.</p>

<p>In the <u><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1885388">example image</a></u>, for example, I might spot meter a mid-tone area in the clouds (a darker area that I want as a Zone V value) as the starting point. Then, I'd meter other areas to see where they would fall in relation the the mid-tone cloud area. That way, I can use an exposure that will place the various elements in the scene where I want them, brightness-wise. So, even though the film is being developed normally, aspects of the basic concepts of the Zone System can be used effectively with color or normally-developed B&W.</p>

<center>

<img src="http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/misc/Travel/stonehenge-350m.jpg">

</center>

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The saying is "Expose for shadows; develop for highlights." But that's referring to B&W negative film. Exposing for highlights works well with Kodachrome as it has an apparently limitless ability to record shadow detail, but getting a digital scan that comes close to the original is another matter.
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