Nikkor 28mm f2.0 AI'd FLARE problem

[moccia]

I want to share my experience with this lens.

According to the MIR source

<a

href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresour

ces/28mmnikkor/28mmf2.htm">here</a>

the lens optical design has not been changed through the different

versions non-AI - AI. The AIS version has only an improved close

focusing distance.

 

According to Bjørn Rørslett <a

href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_wide.html">here</a> , who

review the AI version,

 

this lens is "unusually resistant to flare and ghosting and

eminently suitable for shooting directly into the sun".

 

Well, I never had a lens so prone to flare!

I have to say that I didn't use any hood.

For a while I thought to sell it. But looking at the slide and after

some comparisons my opinion changed. This lens has its own character.

A sort of vibrant color rendition. And the f2 maximum aperture is

really a plus in low light hand-held photography.

Did you have similar experience?

How can be explained the flare problem? Can be a question of this

sample or it is a problem with the non-AI version?

[mskovacs]

Is your non-AI multicoated? The MIR source seems to imply that all versions of this lens are. Sorry I can't really explain how to tell the difference visually.

 

You should always use a hood!

[Jerry_]

Plus **it is risky to your eyesight** the earth's atmosphere has varying degrees of clear sky. If there is no haze, the lack of a lenshood is a factor, too; the chances are greater the lens will flare. If the crud in the sky is somewhat thick -- the filter effect of the air particles will reduce the flare in your lens when shooting into the sun.

 

 

 

The lens probably should not take all the blame....

[neil_parker]

Minor correction, there actually were 2 different optical designs for the 28mm f2: The AIS version is 8 elements in 8 groups and has closer focussing than the older 9/8 design of the AI and pre-AI lenses. I don't know the answer about flare other than to always use a hood and avoid a filter if possible.

[eric friedemann]

The 28mm f/2.0 Nikkors are wide angle lenses with biggish front elements. They're gonna flare if you point them towards a bright light source. And, they're gonna flare if you have bright light sources hitting the front element of the lens tangentially.

 

I owned one years ago and it wasn't flare-proof. I don't know how any reviewer could use this lens looking to evaluate flare and not conclude that flare is an issue in strong, directional light.

 

Now, I have a 28mm f/1.4 AFD Nikkor. It is fairly flare resistant.

 

If you don't absolutely need the one-stop faster f/2.0 lens, buy a 28mm f/2.8 AIS Nikkor. I agree with Ken Rockwell that the 2.8 AIS is the most lavishly-designed and excellent all-around WA lens Nikon has made.

 

For the 28mm f/2.0, buy a hood. They cost $15 bucks new and sell for an average of about $7.50 on eBay:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=37598&is=REG

[andry_hermawan]

Did you put filter on it, perhaps the filter cause the flare, not the lens. try without filter. I don't have that lens, but I experienced flare due to UV filter, when i took it off, flare's gone. because the filter position is at the very front, the first glass that hit by light, it might bias a little and causing flare.

 

good luck.

[david_h._hartman]

<strong>The 28/2.0 Nikkor-H Auto, 28/2.0 AI and 28/2.0 AIS all

have 9 elements in 8 groups and all three have CRC (close range

correction). <br>

</strong><br>

According to the schematics I have there is a difference between

the Nikkor-H Auto and the AI. The optical design is virtually the

same but there are minor changes that indicate refinement. The

focal length of both (H) is 28.6mm. H is an additional 34.5mm

from the film plane for the Nikkor-H while its 34.7mm for

the AI. The distance from the rear element to the film plane is

37.7mm for the Nikkor-H and 38.5mm for the AI, etc. The source of

this information is Joseph D. Cooper, "Nikon Nikkormat

Handbook, © 1974" and "Nikkor Lenses, Sales Manual,

79-1." I have schematics of the AIS Nikkors but they are

mostly illustrations and indicate no dimensions.<br>

<br>

Cheers,<br>

<br>

Dave.

[david_h._hartman]

<em>"...or it is a problem with the non-AI version?"

-- Luigi Moccia<br>

</em><br>

Yes.<br>

<br>

Bjørn Rørslett said, "This lens is unusually resistant to

flare and ghosting and eminently suitable for shooting directly

into the sun." He did not say it was flare free.<br>

<br>

It is very important to note that Bjørn reviewed the AI which is

multi-coated. If you own the 28/2.0 Nikkor-H Auto it is a single

coated lens and there is a big difference. There are pre-AI

Nikkors that are multi-coated. If your lens is a 28/2.0 Nikkor-H.C

Auto or later I dont know what to say. The "C"

after the H indicates multi-coating.<br>

<br>

When Pentax started advertising Super Multi-Coated Takumar lenses

I thought what a load of BS but I checked out their claims

promptly. Within a day or two I put my entire first Nikon system

on the block and started a Hasselblad system as Hasselblad lenses

were already multi-coated. A few years later when the Nikon F2As

prices settled I started my second Nikon system as planned with

only multi-coated AI Nikkors. This gives a clear idea of how

important I felt multi-coating was and is.<br>

<br>

For help identifying your lens check here...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html"

target="_new"><u>http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html</u></a><br>

<br>

I recommend that you pickup a Nikon HN-1 or HK-2 lens hood

immediately. The HN-1 is the recommended hood for all 28/2.0(s)

but the it nips a little light from the corners. The HK-2 is

designed for the 24/2.0 Nikkor but its a better hood for

the 28/2.0(s) and 24/2.8 AI and AIS Nikkors. If you do not use a

filter the HK-2 will not fit the 24/2.8 AI and may not fit the 28/2.0

Nikkor-H.<br>

<br>

PJ and PR types will prefer the HN-1 as its a screw on and

stays put. The HN-1 accepts a Tupperware #G or 8 oz. tumbler cap.

For those who want the most even illumination or use filters the

HK-2 is a slip on hood and is easier to remove and install. The

HK-2 accepts an 80mm slip-on cap.<br>

<br>

Luigi, If you like pointing lenses into the sun (something I like)

Id get a multi-coated version.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave.

[roland_vink]

First, to clarify the differing posts previous:

 

There is only one optical design of the 28/2 lens, with 9/8 elements/groups. It began as the Nikkor-N 28mm f2 in 1971, and progressed through Nikkor-N.c, AI and AIS versions with no changes to the optics. (the 8/8 element 28mm is the AIS 28/2.8 which did change compared to the earlier AI version).

 

All versions of the 28/2 are multicoated. The 28/2 was only the second Nikkor to be multicoated after the 35/1.4. Multicoating has improved since the early 70s but these improvements are minor compared to a single coated or uncoated lens.

 

As for flare... did you shoot with a filter on the lens? For shooting into the sun or bright lights, you should remove all filters. Even the glass surfaces on the cleanest filter will cause flare and degrade contrast, and a dirty filter will be even worse.

 

Are the front and rear elements of your lens clean? Is there any dust or haze on the internal elements? A few specks of dust won't cause flare but a lot of dust or haze will.

 

A lens hood will reduce flare from light glancing across the lens from outside the frame. If the sun is inside the picture, a hood won't help at all.

 

Hope this helps.

[moccia]

Thank you for all the interesting comments.

Additional details:<p>

1) no filter was used when I had this problem;<p>

2) I was not pointing toward the sun; when I want to do that I use a Nikkor 20mm f3.5 which is really good at that;<p>

3) the front and rear elements of the lens were clean. No internal haze, the lens has been also checked by a repairman;<p>

4) the lens S.N. is 296XXX, so Nikkor-N Auto Nikon. Roland suggests that it is multi-coated. <p>

 

Yes I learnt the lesson, I will use a hood. Thanks Dave for the suggestions about the HK-2. I'll check it out.

[eric friedemann]

"The HN-1 is the recommended hood for all 28/2.0(s) but the it nips a little light from the corners."

 

No, it does not. I have dozens of full frame images taken with a 28mm f/2.0 AIS, a Nikon L37c UV filter and an HN-1 hood. The HN-1 hood does not vignette with this lens.

 

The HK hoods suck. They are expensive (compared to the HN hoods), slip on and can fall off easily if the set screw becomes loose.

[eric friedemann]

And another thing, one of the reasons I use filters and hoods is so I don't need front lens caps. The L37c coated Nikon UV filters are outstanding. And using a hood on a lens allows meto put the lens face down in a bag without the filter picking up dust or getting scratched.

[larry_miller5]

<p>I second the statement that "the HK hoods suck". The HN's are great. Also if you use a polarizer filter with this lens, try the Hoya model with the 7 or 8 layers of coating on it front and back. The real thin ones. That should help curb the flare somewhat. It's helped my lens. However you can't use a hood on this filter as there's nowhere to screw it on if you're using the HN-1. With that amount of coatings it's surely to help quite a bit.</p>

[rafa batlle]

<p>The center is very sharp and flares a little at 2.0, where has strong aberration in the corners as well. From 2.8 on up it is just about as good as it gets.<br>

At f/8<br>

<a title="nikon nikkor 28mm 2 NC at 8 San Antonio de Pala Mission by Rafael CA, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8346/8259180335_9fc9b5a9ba_b.jpg" alt="nikon nikkor 28mm 2 NC at 8 San Antonio de Pala Mission" width="1024" height="683" /></a> At f/2.8 <a title="nikon nikkor 28mm 2 NC at 2.8 San Antonio de Pala Mission by Rafael CA, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8266331972_2aa045179d_b.jpg" alt="nikon nikkor 28mm 2 NC at 2.8 San Antonio de Pala Mission" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p>