SQ-A Severe Close Up Portrait Photography - Extension Tubes ?

[guy_winter]

HI, I'm new to the list so I apologise if this question has been

covered before, I have scanned through the archive without much

success.

 

I currently use a Bronica SQ-A with 80mm and 150mm lenses, I want to

do some close up portait and abstract photography but find the

minimum focusing distance a problem.

 

I don't want to go to macro phototograpy lengths, just enough to

allow me to do a really tight head shot in the studio. Has anybody

any direct experience of the S-18 and S-36 extension tubes, are there

any limitations ?

 

Also, as an aside, does anyone have any ideas on how to copy 2 1/4"

transparencies ?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Guy Winter.

[ken_heflinger]

Guy,

 

Have you ruled out close up filters? This is an inexpensive way to get much closer.

 

Ken

[mel_brown1]

Guy, I would say that Ken has the best and simplest answer. A +1 closeup lens will do what you want, and you won't have to fuss with exposure compensation as you will with extension tubes. You will probably be doing head shots at f/8 or f/11, small enough that the supplementary lens won't degrade quality enough to notice.

 

To copy MF transparencies, you will need a way to achieve 1:1 magnification. That would require 80mm of extension (for your 80mm lens), via either a bellows or tubes. This will require 2 steps of exposure increase.

 

The hard part is to decide on a film to use. Standard films will noticeably increase contrast. Kodak and Fuji make special duplicating films, but neither packages them in 120 rolls. Fuji sells theirs in 70mm perforated long rolls, but you'd need a special back to handle that. Kodak also sells theirs in long rolls, but it is not clear to me whether they mean 35mm or 70mm long rolls.

 

You might try using a standard low-contrast film such as Kodak EPN to see whether you can live with the results, which will be at least slightly more contrasty than your originals.

[work-page]

I think the biggest minus of extension tubes for portraiture is that they restrict the upper range of focussing (to about 1.5 ft max. for the 80mm lens with S-18). This means that you will have a considerable gap between the focus range with and without (from about 2.7 ft min. for the 80mm) tubes.<P>

Although costly, you may consider a teleconverter instead which will go from infinity to the original close focus distance without hickups, but will magnify the subject to better fill the frame.<P>

Another plus of the teleconverter is that you will not have to move closer, and hence the perspective does not suffer. Resulting portraits will remain pleasing instead of turning into caricatures.<P>

[michael_heal]

<p>Used with your 150 mm lens, the 18 mm extension tube will work well for head shots. Setting the 150 mm lens to infinity with the 18 mm tube, the lens will show you pretty much what it does without the tube and set to its closest focussing distance. In other words, it will focus at about 5 feet and fill the frame with an object that measures about 18 inches to a side. Turning the focussing ring to the closest setting, you will be able to focus to about 3 feet and fill the frame with an object measuring about 9 inches per side. That's a useful range for tight head shots. Indeed, it is a slightly better range that you would achieve with the +1 diopter close-up lens and the quality may be marginally better, but the close-up lens is easier to attach and remove. Open the lens an extra 1/2 stop when using the 18 mm extension tube with the 150 mm lens.</p>

<p>Neither are much use for head shots with the 80 as the <em>largest</em> object that will fill the frame with the 18 mm tube is about 9 inches to a side. With this lens, a 9 mm tube would be more useful. Similar logic rules out the 36 mm extension tube for this application.</p>

<p>Another way to copy transparencies is to take them to a good lab. It is hard to achieve as good results yourself, unless you are willing to invest in a macro lens, bellows, and other appropriate equipment.</p>