Help with building an FD kit.

[david_moreland]

My first camera was an AE1P. Moved to EOS in '92. Still have the Elan. A

friend gave me his old OM-1 body and I got back to the basics. Now I am

interested in a similar Canon body and lens. Flash is not a concern, and I will

probably pick up just a 24mm, 50mm, 100mm(+/-). I have good info on lenses,

and A series bodies. Most of the A bodies have more advanced features than

my OM-1. What, if any, are the comparable Canon bodies to the OM? Is the

build quality/handling as good as the OM? I am also interested in an A1, so

comments on that camera/series are appreciated also. Thanks for your time,

David

[psul_aul]

I don't have much knowledge of the early Olympus system, except that they have a devoted following, but I am assuming that the OM-1 is an all manual controls camera.

 

If that is the case, I would suggest trying to find a used FTb, or if you have the extra money, one of the F1 series cameras. All have excellent build quality and convienent, manual controls, and will work without a battery. (some limitations with the F1N)

 

The A1 has automated exposure options. You can use aperture priority, shutter priority, full program or manual exposure modes. The shutter is electronically controlled and will not work without a battery

[richard_oleson]

The FTb does not have quite the smoothness of the OM1, but it's functionally equivalent and it's a very rugged, well-built camera. Other than the F1, it was Canon's last attempt to make a solid, all-metal, mechanical camera. The EF was also very nice, equally rugged, a bit smoother than the FTb, with automation but its shutter was mechanically controlled from 1/2 second up so it will keep running if the batteries die. Neither of these would accept a power winder, otherwise they're comparable to the AT1 and AE1 respectively. They're noticeably heavier than either the OMs or the Canon A-series. No plastic and no "canon squeak" in either of them....

[steven_clark]

That said, it is a matter of personal taste whether you believe the quality of a camera should be based upon it's effectiveness as a bludgeon.

[billangel]

For me, a major attraction of the F1, compared to other Canon bodies of similar vintage, is the facility to change viewfinders. I actually

use the "Speed Finder FN" more than the eye level prism finders, especially in the case when the camera is mounted on a tripod that is positioned below normal eye level.

[gregory_nicholson]

Hi David,

When you say OM which camera are you talking about? The difference between the OM-1 and the OM-2nSP is like an FTBn and an F-1N or perhaps an AT-1 and an A-1. What features about your OM do you like?

 

The biggest difference between the OM-1 and earlier Canon cameras is the placement of the shutter speed dial. Aperture priority match needle metering can be performed with these cameras. But you need to be willing to hold the camera, press the shutter release half way and reach over it to adjust the shutter speed dial on the top right deck. Otherwise, shutter priority matched needle metering or AE-TV can be done with all. Of course the OM-1 has the dial behind the lens and can easily be turned with your left hand for matched needle AV or TV.

 

The A-1 is an AV, TV and Program camera, like an OM-2program. Within the viewfinder you�ll see the aperture and shutter speed in an LED display. No matched needle metering. Exposure compensation is performed with a dial on the top left deck or manual setting with a meter read-out of what the camera wants but not what you've sellected.

 

Again, it depends on what you like or what you want to duplicate.

[david_moreland]

Thanks for the replies so far. Checked out an FT QL today that is in excellent

condition-appears hardly used. Any thoughts on this model? What is the

difference in the FTb and FT QL?

Thanks again for the comments.

[14mm 2.8l]

I owned a FT and found the view thru the viewfinder magical. The screen installed in it is unlike any other canon body I have ever used. But I sold it off a few years ago. I like mechanical F-1 and electronic F-1N and I find it easier to stay with fewer body types and these are my 2 choices. These are both pro bodies which had entire systems built around them. Lindy

[bill_g2]

<p>David,

 

<p>One concern that I've had with getting something from the FTb vintage is that the light meters on those all use old mercury batteries which are no longer in production. You can still buy them from a few sources, but they get harder and harder to find (and more expensive) as time goes by.

 

<p>If I were getting into the FD system today, I'd probably consider the New F-1 as being the leading contender. It is an absolute tank and has batteries that are still available.

 

<p>My FD setup is actually an A-1. Great camera, but it relies heavily on aging electronics. I had it overhauled a couple of years ago and spent more on it than it was worth.

 

<p>If you don't want the weight of the F-1N. There are a sea of good examples AE-1 and AE-1P bodies out there.

 

<p>Good luck.

[joseph_wei]

David,

 

The FT can only meter correctly with the lens stopped down. The FTb and all other Canon bodies produced after it allow metering at full-aperture. Most Canon cameras in the manual focus line (including the A-series, if there is no "shutter squeak") are rugged enough for normal use. My AE-1P has been through the humid tropics, below-zero mountain temperatures, and bumpy jeep rides - and still produces excellent-quality photos (especially with my much-used FD 50mm f/1.4) time after time.

 

JW