ARGUS C3

[stephane_bastien1]

Hello,

 

I've search in previous post, there's not really the answer I'm

expecting.

I'm an old fashion photographer (!). I'm using Canon FT, FTb,

Nikkormat FT2, Hassy 500C. The most enhanced is a Canon AE-1 "minty".

I've discovered recently Argus C3 (I'm french, there's no Argus

around here !!).

So what's about C3 ? Are the lenses sharp, is the body reliable, is

nice to use (I'm not sure), and so.

And finally, what's the correct price for this kind of Dinosaur, in

good shape ?

 

Thanks .

 

 

Stéphane From Saint Germain Lèsn Corbeil (France)

[connealy]

I think the lens quality of the normal Cintar on the C3 is its strongest feature. The rest is probably debatable. This photo and the other two I have posted on photo.net were all from the first test role I shot with my C3 after I serviced the shutter. You can see larger versions in my <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=211180">Rio Bravo folder</a> side-by-side with a Vito II shot and a bunch of digitals; I think the C3 hold up pretty well in comparison.

<br>   

Most of what I know about the C3 is contained in a <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=217382

">photo.net presentation page</a>. Several other photonetters have devoted a lot more time to the C3 than I; hopefully they will weigh in with some wisdom about The Brick.<div></div>

[richard_oleson]

Here in the USA, Argus C3's can be had for $10-20 apiece. The lens is pretty good, and the shutter is one of the most reliable on any camera of that vintage. Rangefinder and flash synch adjustment are almost always in need of adjustment, viewfinders are dim and foggy due to accumulated dirt.... it's quite amazing how good the camera can be if you really get it cleaned up nicely. Luckily, there are some resources to help you do that (it's an easy and fun camera to learn "do it yourself camera repair" on).

<br><br>

Here are some websites that you may find interesting:

<br>

<a href="http://members.tripod.com/rick_oleson/index-86.html">my own argus c3 stuff (repair & service)</a>

<br>

<a href="http://argusargosy.tripod.com/">Argus Argosy - C3 photos around the world (you might want to sign up, it's coming to France)</a>

<br>

best wishes!

<br>

rick :)=

[todd_phillips1]

The standard Cintar is a triplet (three element) design that is probably fine for 4x6 prints. Making an enlargement of 11x14 up would show some softness at the edges and perhaps center.

 

BTW, I've got a MIB 100mm lens for a C3 for sale but no viewfinder. Might be able to use a generic 90mm finder. I also have many C3's, some with boxes if you're interested.

[ninette_cassavant]

I have a 1962-63 Argus C3, it's a 50mm f3.5, and I was just

wondering if there are lens for it or is the one on it the only one? I

guess what I am asking, is this lens removable?

[mark_michaelson]

Note that the focusing ring gear rack is cut to limit travel, such that travel stops at infinity when the idler is installed.

 

The C3 lens can be removed as follows. Focus at minimum distance first, to move the lens away from the camera, and provide clearance for the knurled knob in the next step.

 

Remove the knurled knob over the idler gear.

 

Remove the idler gear.

 

Rotate CW to the infinity hard stop (lens closest to body). Note exactly where some feature on the face of the lens (f-stop hash mark?) is relative to the camera body.

 

Turn the focusing barrel CCW until you hit the hard stop at minimum focus, and then keep turning it CCW.

 

NORMALLY, the additional torque will unseat the lens base threads from the camera body, and the assembly will come off. If the lens base threads are stuck in the camera body however, then the additional torque will pop the focusing ring pin out of the focusing ring slot.

 

If this happens, carefully slowly continue unthreading the lens assembly, and note the relative position of your chosen landmark when you feel the threads end.

 

Remove the now exposed snap ring, slip off the focusing ring, and use a strap wrench to unstick the stubborn brass lens base from the camera body.

 

Reassembly is complicated by the fact that the focusing threads are cut with 6 threads. You've got a 1 in 6 chance of randomly matching the threads (and focusing relationship). Obtaining the previous relationship is an iterative process unless you noted where the face of the lens was oriented with respect to the camera body at the hard stops BEFORE you over-torqued CCW and popped the pin out of the slot on the focusing ring.

 

With 6 possible threads, it is always a possibility that somebody has mis-assembled it by a thread in the past.

 

Always use a piece of ground glass held to the film plane, and a loupe to check the focusing - against the distance indicated on the range finder, with the shutter held open on B. This should be done with all cameras.

 

When the idler is properly re-engaged, the travel should stop exactly at the infinity point. Adjust the idler engagement as necessary.

[mark_michaelson]

<p>12 years since my last response above; there's a fellow online selling adaptors for the c3 Cintar to E-mount and M43 mount mirrorless digital cameras. He is enthusiastic. Pay him a visit and keep that lens in service.</p>