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Is the F3 really that good?


jason_paris

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I'll begin by apologizing for yet another which camera body should I

buy, but I 've spent all week scouring the web reading people's

opinions as well as several photographer friends. I have recently

sold <i>all</i> of my camera gear in hopes of changing to a system

that I will be able to stick with for the rest of my days.

<p>

As of now, I have decided that that system will be Nikon because of

a number of factors. The main one being the vast amount of quality

used equipment on the market. It was recommended that a good entry

level Nikon is the F3. I've even heard people that have sold there

F3 for a auto focus Nikon turn around an buy another F3. I went

today and held the F3 and I admit that it did feel wonderful. I've

always enjoyed using solid, metal cameras. However, I was somewhat

taken back to discover that a used F3 body runs around $500. My

questions to you would be, is the F3 really worth $500. If not,

what would you recommend instead? I had hoped to spend less that

that on a body and pick up a few lens with the money saved.

<p>

I shoot mainly landscapes with slide film and available light so the

flash is not a real handicap.

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This is a professional camera. I for one am pleased that I can get them this cheap! The F3 cost around $500 in 1980...comparable to an F5 now when you factor inflation.

 

What lenses were you thinking about getting for $500 including a body? I've gone the route of having focal length primes increasing by 2x: 24, 55, 105, 200.

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F3 really is that good, and it really is worth $500 the market wants for it. But that doesn't mean there isn't something else that is more suitable to you. Just because BMW is good and worth what it cost doesn't mean a Honda can't be far more suitable. In this case, the Hondas would be FM, FE, FE2, FM2.
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I just bought a mint, late model (1999) F3 HP from KEH for $600. It is fabulous. Also for about $225 each, I bought a mint 50mmm 1.4 and 105mm 2.5 -- both AIS lenses. And I went for a mint MD-4 Motor Drive (which I really don't need -- "toys for boys" -- for $200 on Ebay.)

 

I've owned everything from Nikon F in 1965 -- all the Leicas, & even recently a Hasselblad & Rolleiflex!! Sold them all.

 

An F3 will be my last camera. Of course it will. . .

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Yes they are that good. If it is any help, take a look at what a new one sells for, it will make that 500.00 seem like a bargain. Shop around and finding a worn looking but perfect functioning F3 for 300.00 is easy. The F3HP also had one of the best viewfinders ever mounted to an SLR, an area where the newer consumer AF's are lacking.

 

If you want a bargain, look for a clean N8008s autofocus, it works with the AI manual focus lenses, has a viewfinder almost as good as the F3, and, because some people think the AF is outdated, sells for 200 to 250 for a very nice sample. It may not be quite as durable as the F3 but mine has 14 years on it and has never had any problem.

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This is going to be an unusual suggestion: If I wanted an inexpensive Nikon film body for landscape only and don't need to worry about AF, I might go for a used N8008s to take advantage of the spot meter. Obviously the N90 and N90s would do also, but they cost more since they are AF-S compatible. Please keep in mind that the "no S" N8008 has no spot meter, though.
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I priced an F3/MD-4 last night as part of another thread; $334 at www.keh.com in 'bargain' condition. $235 without the MD-4, but I always use the MD-4 myself.

 

What did you sell, and what did you like and dislike about it? I like the F3, and I am often defending it here if it's the right camera for a particular job. It is not without its quirks.

 

If you were to tell me that you had previously had a Nikon FE and loved the 'match needle' meter scale, I might point out that the F3 meter display does not win many fans.

 

On the other hand, if you put removable/interchangable finders high on your wish list, the F3 scores 'highest marks'.

 

I am one who did not own an F3 in 'their time', but I moved to AF and then 'went backwards' and bought an F3. I still use my AF cameras, but I enjoy using the F3 for many shoots.

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First in response to Mike. I've planned on purchasing a 55mm 1.4 to go with the F3 to begin with. I figure that will get me through all the holiday pictures which the relatives like for me to take. Plus with Christmas coming up I'll probably add the 24mm and possibly the 105mm.

 

In response to Todd. I sold a Pentax ZX-7 along with a few lens. My girlfriend was looking to upgrade her body because her mom wanted to buy hers. The only problems I have with the ZX-7 was the fact that it was hard to go up in the Pentax line in terms of quality and still find a wide variety of accessories. Plus the quality Pentax lens are more expensive to the comparable Nikons. I also like the idea of the interchangeable finders on the F3. The 100% area is a big pull as well.

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Yes it is that good! For $500, you should have a camera in excellent to near mint condition. "Mint" looking ones go in the high $600s, and NEW is $1450! If you want a camera that will outlive you, this is one of them. The others with such durability are the other Nikon Fs (F, F2), the FMs, the Canon F1, and the Leica M series rangefinders. This was Nikon's longest running production camera (from 1980 to 2001) for good reason!<p>I bought mine in 1983, still have it, (still looks excellent), and still love it. Without a doubt it is the camera I'll use when I really have to nail a shot. With the motor, you'll be able to rip off up to 5.5 fps with the NiCd battery pack. More importantly, you can shoot in midwinter when the temperature is way below freezing, as the motor drive batteries power the camera.
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The F3 is great and there are a lot available now at good prices. You won't be disappointed.

 

But if you are primarily shooting landscapes with natural light, you'll get a lot better final product with a quality camera using 120 rollfilm. Medium format hardware is being dumped on the used market and there are very, very good buys on Hasselblads, Mamiyas and Bronicas out there.

 

If you haven't done a landscape on a 2-1/4, you owe it to yourself to rent or borrow one for a week or so. I use my Nikons for a lot of things, but not for landscapes.

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Josef, I hope one day to move up to medium format. However right now I think 35mm is the best for me. I'm still desperately trying to learn everything that I can in order to eventually reach the point were I deem myself <i>worthy</i> of a medium format.

<p>

As for renting one for a week, I'd prefer not to know just what I'm missing. Maybe I'll get a medium format for my graduation present to myself. Who knows, they might even drop in price by then.

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Jason

 

That's high. I have a F3Hp with 5 or 6 extra focusing screens, and the manual, plus the original Yellow Nikon "bumble bee" strap issued in Japan in "EX" condition (normal brassing around the camera lugs) that I'm going to be offering for $300.00.

 

I've seen them on eBay for around $250.00 to $350.00 for the body, so $500 is pricey

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Hi Jason,

 

Let me put it this way...I have an F80 and all AF Nikkors. Also an AF Pentax body with AF 50 mm lens. I never used AF anyway. I shoot mainly landscape and macros. Use only the spot meter.

 

The other day I saw a 1980s F3 for USD 265 at a local store. Just went ahead and bought it. Had done my research beforehand and sought opinions.

 

I rest my case. And yes, any metering system can be mastered with practice.

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Jason,

We all know the F3 is a great camera. But I have to say it is not the best camera for everyone (as all other cameras, each has pros and cons). And I totally against calling it an "entry level Nikon". It is a PRO camera and designed for PROs usages. If you have the needs for all of its features, $500 is a bagain price for an F3. As you mentioned you shoot mainly landscape and scene with available lighting, the F3 would serve you very well. A bright and 100% image area view finder are big pluses for these area. Its weaknesses are the non-standard ISO flash shoe and slow sync speed wont bother you since you don't need flash. For these purposes I would get a F3 with an HP view finder (F3HP).

 

Take a look at the FM2n or the FM3a cameras as alternatives. Particularly the FM2n. you can find excellent condition FM2n for a little more than $200. Spend the rest of $$ on lenses. The FM2 is also a very well built camera, very closed to the built quality of the F3 series. I highly recommend the FM2n if you're on budget.

 

Best Regards,

DAN

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Dan,

 

I have taken a look at the FM2n. However its slowest shutter is 1s. When taking pictures of dark mountain streams I find 1s is way to slow. I shot a roll this weekend where the majority of the time I was shooting around 30s. I know what the F3 has a slow shutter of 8s, but I've also heard that you can use the "T" for longer exposures. Can anyone elaborate on this?

 

Also, I wear glasses which I hear makes using the FM2n a little more difficult. Can anyone offer any personal experience with this?

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If you want to expose for up to hour (at least), set the F3 on a tripod, set it to auto, and let it go. The F3 is the low light champion supreme. You can even dial in reciprocity failure correction using the compensation dial. You get low light, L O N G exposures in automatic, far longer than what is stated on the shutter speed dial. Other Nikons of this era like the FE(2), FA and FG can also approach the F3 for low light supremacy. The downside is that too many of these super long exposures will drain your battery, as the meter is on all that time.<p>If this isn't long enough for you, and you want total manual control, then set the shutter dial to T. You can use the mechanical release to trigger the camera. The advantage is that you don't drain the batteries during your exposure. In that case, you could leave the camera exposing that frame of film for 100 years if you wanted it to. For shorter manual long time exposures, you can use B, but it drains the battery.
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