Leica 101 starter kit

[soboyle www.oboylephoto.co]

I've been a manual camera shooter for years using a contax slr

system, then a contax G system, but I would like to get back to a

manual everything camera, and leica always seemed out of reach $$$.

Looking for recommendations for a good shooter M body and fast lens

in the 30-50 range, doesn't have to be pretty looking, just solid

functioning. And of course I want to experience the leica feel, so

I'm not interested in a minolta or other 3rd party bodies. Is it

possible to get a user M body and one lens for under $1000 that would

be appropriate for available light shooting?

[george_shihanian]

Hi Shaun,

 

Yes, it is possible to get what you want for that price. Click the "Classifieds" tab at the top of the page, and from the next page, scroll down and click on "35mm Non-SLR" ads. There was just a "user" M3 with Summicron lens sold for $800. There was also an M3 for $550.

 

I'd also think that you may hear directly from some people here who may want to sell you something. Make sure you can return something if you get it and don't like it.

[cameron_sawyer]

In that price range, you'd be better off with a Voigtlander Bessa R2 and Nokton 50/1.5. Brand new with a warranty for about $900. The glass is truly excellent (fully Leica quality). The Bessa body lacks that "Leica feel" but it does everything a Leica M6 does, and has an excellent finder (maybe even better than M6). And it's totally mechanical and totally manual, even down to manual frameline selection (Leica is automatic). Avoid the Bessa only if the silent Leica shutter is important to you; the Bessa's is noticeably louder.

 

If you insist on the "Leica feel" (has no effect on your photos, by the way), then you might find a beater M6 for $800 or so. Put the Nokton on it (with bayonet adapter) and you'll be not too far from $1000 (say $1200).

 

Really beat meterless bodies (M2, M3, M4-2) might cost a bit less still and get you down to $1000. But do you really want to use a beater? You should probably resign yourself to spending $1,200 to $1,400 for an M6 or M6TTL body in good condition, then $375 or so for a Nokton and bayonet adapter, in other words, $1700 or $1800. Otherwise, go for a new Bessa.

 

Either way you'll have a great introduction to the joys of rangefinder photography. Fair warning: it's addictive, and expensive.

[peter_white2]

You should be able to find a usable M2 and 50mm Summicron for around $1000. If not a Summitar with a M mount converter is close enough to be hard to distinguish, just a bit more flare. Screw mount lenses are great bargains. My 35mm Summaron f3.5 delivers terrific chromes. I can't see any difference between it and the Summicron 35, except at f2 and f2.8 ;-)

 

PJW

[jeff_rivera5]

Yes,

 

For 1K I'd go for the cheapist m4,4-2,4-p you can find ($6-800, they're out there). Next I'd look for an LTM summicron ($2-400) with a LTM to m adaptor ($3-50). You could also go with a new style elmar ($350-500) and if you get a good enought deal on the body, still be under $1000.

 

cheers,

[skip_williams]

If you go to www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm you can read a great article on which M body is best for your needs. IMO, decide if you want an in-camera meter, which I think is a good first step for a new Leica shooter. If so, then buy a good-quality M6 and something like a used CV Nokton 50/1.5, Canon 50/1.8 screwmount, or Collapsible 50/2 Summicron. An alternative, unmetered body would be either an M2 or an M4-2/M4-P, all of which you should be able to find for $7-800 in user-shape. If you can find one that's been CLA'd in the past few years, it'll likely be in much better shape.

 

Also, search the archives here, there are many, many other opinions on this topic.

 

Skip

[joshroot]

If you can live without a meter, I'd go M2 if you can find a good one. The M3's are great, as everyone knows. But unless you need the focusing accuracy, I think you'll find the M2's 35mm lines more useful. M4's are fine, but can be pricey and depending on who you believe, don't have the Leica 'feel'. Personally, I'm not stressed about suff like that. The only reason to go M4 or newer would be if you needed or wanted easier flash. But if you want easy flash, you should be shooting a Nikon AF SLR.

 

Then to save some cash, I'd go with a Voigtlander lens or two. Depending on your focal length preference, maybe a 35/50 or a 24/25 or even 21/35.

[andrew_lee2]

Yes, it is entirely possible and more. Try contacting our list's Andrew D. about an M4-P body.

[patricks]

User M4-P can be had for around 6-700 as someone said. Then add older model 35mm or 50mm lens if it had to be Leica, or simply pick up a minty used CV lens until you can afford the real stuff, e.g. 50/2 Summicron or a 35/2 ASPH (which will blow you away).

[davidv1]

The M-Rokkor 40/2 or Summicron 40/2 are excellent choices that will help keep costs down.

 

Regards, David

[john_perkins2]

Stick with the Contax. It's a perfectly good camera, and unless you're dying to use

f1.4 glass, it does everything an M can do, and has a better flash setup. Spend the

money on film, or give it to charity.

[kevin m.]

"...so I'm not interested in a minolta or other 3rd party bodies."

 

Easy enough to understand, isn't it? So why the recommendations to 'stick with Contax' or 'buy a Bessa' when he clearly isn't interested?

[john_boyle3]

Look for an M2 with a 50mm Summicron. It may take a bit of time to find one in good condition for $1000 but you will be pleased once you find it. Some good places to look have been mentioned here, but you may want to try some camera stores. If you walk in with cash in your pocket you may find some good deals. At any rate, stick with Leica.

[Bill Blackwell Images]

Shaun:

 

IMO do not buy a non-leica body/lens. My sense from your comments is that's not what you're looking for.

 

For a Leica M Body and a lens in the $1,000 price range you will have to opt for a user non-metered body (anything but an M4) and a 50mm Summicron (possibly a beater 35mm Summicron about two generations back). These cameras are wonderful for available light because there's no mirror bouncing up and down.

 

If you shop around and talk to people you'll eventually find what you're looking for (M2, M3, M4-2, or M4-P). I would also suggest you have someone who knows M cameras to walk you through the "process" because there are allot of things to beware of in older bodies and lenses (i.e. RF separation and fogging, respectively). Beware of eBay!

 

On the other hand, if you don't need to stick with Leica M, a clean Leicaflex SL (fully manual with a pretty fair built-in meter) with a two-cam lens, or two, could be easily gotten within that price range. But please take the same advice here; have someone who knows Leica walk you through finding a camera through purchase so you don�t get ripped off.

[greg_mason]

yes, it is definately possible. i would take your time to research leica and find out where prices are at. leica owners are funny and a small scratch can nock hundreds off of a camera or lens. the best values are definately in the beater class. if you want a meter in your camera then you will probably need to up your budget, if you don't you are fine. many of us hand meter or use the sunny 16 rule. with the latitude of todays films this is not a problem. the next decision you need to make is on your lens. the m3 is optimized for the 50mm, the m2, and m4 for the 35mm but can also use the 50mm. if this is it for your leica budget and you will only be using a 50mm then go for the m3. search this formum for dealers or pick up an issue of shuttebug magazine. the dealers who sell primarily leica gear are for the most part honest and will not sell you a lemon. for example i have had good luck with richard tillis at woodmere camera (woodcam.com) you can currently get a m2 and a 40mm f2 rokkor for under $1000 from him.